Now is the time to focus on aftercare. You might be wondering how much to water your snake plant or whether you need water it after repotting.
You may need to wait a few days after potting to allow your plant to settle.
This means you won’t have to water the snake plant after it’s been repotted. It’s fine if the surface of the soil appears to be a little dry.
Wait one or two days before watering your plant again, as this is the most effective method. Your plant will suffer if it receives too much moisture.
Don’t want to be bothered with watering schedules? Consider using this self-watering planter. It has revolutionized our life because we no longer have to worry about overwatering or when to water. They’re also quite simple to utilize.
Should I water snake plant after repotting?
The snake plant should be placed in the new pot at the same depth as before, with the top of the root ball 1 to 2 inches below the container rim. Remove or add dirt beneath the root ball until it is at the right depth after placing the plant in the prepared pot. Once the plant is properly positioned in the pot, put more soil around the roots. After repotting, water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots and keep the potting media equally moist.
How soon should you water a plant after repotting?
- A day or two before you plan to re-pot your plant, give it a good soak. This will make it easier to remove your plant from its pot and keep it moist, reducing the chance of shock.
- Remove the plant from its pot with care. You may need to tilt the pot on its side or have a buddy hold the pot while you grab the plant, depending on its size and degree of root binding. To loosen roots on plants with a lot of roots, run a butter knife along the pot’s perimeter.
- Loosen the root ball gently. Shake off any extra soil gently so as not to injure the roots. Sharp shears should be used to cut off any brown, black, or clearly damaged roots. Trim up to 2/3 of the root mass starting at the bottom and sides of the plant for extremely root bound plants or if you plan to only re-pot without potting up into a larger planter.
- If you’re just repotting, remove any remaining soil from the pot and wash away any sediments with hot water. If you’re potting up your plant, find a clean new pot that’s no more than 2″ wider in diameter than its previous home too much space hinders growth and can lead to root rot.
- If you’re potting into a container that doesn’t have drainage, we recommend putting a.5″ layer of activated charcoal in the bottom. Some people propose putting a layer of pebbles at the bottom of any pot to help with drainage; however, it’s uncertain whether this helps, therefore we leave pebbles out as long as the pot has drainage. After that, add a layer of fresh potting soil to the bottom of the pot so that the plant’s base is about.5″ below the rim.
- Fill the new pot with soil until all of the roots are covered and there is no air. Firm the soil slightly to remove any air pockets, but be careful not to damage the fragile roots. Lightly water the new soil to keep it moist but not soggy.
Plants go through a shock phase after being re-potted or potted up. It’s perfectly normal, so don’t be concerned. Plants may appear wilted and thirsty, but don’t water them for approximately a week after they’ve been re-potted to ensure that any roots that were damaged during the re-potting have healed. Place plants in a cooler, shadier location throughout the recuperation period.
Fertilizer is commonly found in potting soil. You can hold off on fertilizing for about 6 weeks after re-potting to avoid over-fertilizing and harming your plant.
The majority of your indoor plant’s sustenance is absorbed through the soil’s nutrients. The soil becomes gradually degraded over time. After a few seasons of flourishing, you may discover that your plant is producing little new growth, off-color leaves, or is just overall “unhappy.” Even if you fertilize regularly, re-potting (or potting up) with new soil will provide your plant the nutrients it requires to thrive.
Have you ever noticed how water seems to seep out of the bottom of the pot as soon as you water it? Your plant is most likely root bound, a situation in which the plant’s roots have wrapped around and around the outside of the pot in a desperate attempt to find additional room. This generates channels for water to pass through, which is why watering a root-bound plant is so difficult. Re-potting will help your plant access the water it needs to keep its thirst quenched and its foliage full by freeing up these roots.
Everyone, including houseplants, appreciates a little breathing room. Another reason to liberate root-bound plants is to encourage fresh development. Plants can bounce back quickly and abundantly after being re-potted. Your plant will be happy and grow faster if its root system is stronger and growing.
Have you ever overwatered your plants? Don’t be concerned. We’re all guilty of it. The problem is root rot, which occurs when roots are harmed by over irrigation and turn dark brown or black. In this state, they are sensitive to disease and are unable to absorb water (which is why an over-watered plant can sometimes seem thirsty). Clipping off these damaged roots aids in the recovery of a plant after it has been over-watered and is your best defense against fungus and disease.
Many plants can be divided to free up space and produce new plants when they get overcrowded. Repotting season is an excellent time to take advantage of offshoots and pups and divide them into self-sufficient plants.
Reminder: Don’t re-pot your plant if it’s stressed! For example, if the plant has wilted due to thirst, bathe it and allow it to recover before repotting. Repotting should also be avoided during periods of harsh weather, such as heat waves, as this can cause further stress.
How much water does a new snake plant need?
How often should a snake plant be watered? It’s fine if you do it every 2-3 days. You can also feel the soil and water your plant if it is dry or crumbly. You may need to water your snake plant more frequently or give it more water if it is larger.
How do you care for a snake plant after repotting?
Plant Care for Snakes After repotting, I return them to the spot where they were growing before to the repotting. Succulents are snake plants. I let mine dry for around 7 days after repotting to let them to settle in. After that, I’ll water.
How do you water the bottom of a snake plant?
Every few weeks, give snake plants a deep watering by watering from the bottom.
Place your snake plants in a shallow container or bathtub filled with approximately an inch (2.5 cm) of water to bottom water them.
Bottom watering causes the soil to become completely wet, encouraging the roots to grow to the pot’s bottom.
How do you save an overwatered snake plant?
How to rescue a snake plant that has been overwatered
- Place the snake plant in a sunny location. Place the plant in a sunny position to assist it lose as much moisture as possible because the leaves are droopy due to excess water.
Too much water
Plants aren’t the same as fish. Garden plants, unlike aquatic plants, require aerobic soil conditions (e.g. oxygen to be present). To survive, they require interactions with aerobic bacteria, aerobic fungus, and other oxygen-dependent microorganisms.
Overwatering plants causes the soil to become wet, resulting in anaerobic conditions. As a result, oxygen cannot reach the roots of the plants, aerobic microbes die, and anaerobic bacteria proliferate.
This eventually causes the roots of the plant to rot, and your plant will die. (*Plants in hydroponic systems generate “water roots,” which are different from soil roots.) Hydroponic systems also keep the water moving to keep oxygen and nutrients flowing through the water roots.)
Too little water
The appropriate soil moisture level for plants resembles a well-wrung-out sponge once more. If you’re starting seeds indoors, straight sowing them outdoors, transplanting seedlings, or trying to get your young plants established, this is the moisture level you want.
Your finger is an excellent instrument to employ in this situation. With a little practice, you’ll be able to tell exactly how your soil should feel. (Wringing out the sponge, wringing out the sponge!)
Not “watering in your seedlings immediately after transplanting
Water your transplants heavily just after you place them in their final positions in your garden to:
- Check that their roots are in contact with the soil they’ve just been transplanted into, and
- To encourage the roots to develop into the new soil, make sure both the roots and the soil are nice and moist.
Also, make sure your seedlings’ root balls aren’t protruding out of the dirt, otherwise they’ll draw moisture up and out of the soil, causing them to soon dry out. In general, your transplants should be buried in their new soil to the same depth as they were in their seed trays.
*There is an exception to the rule above: you can bury the stems of plants with adventitious roots, such as tomatoes. (Warning: Plants without adventitious roots will die if their stems are buried.)
Poor Irrigation Maintenance
You’ve planted and nurtured your beautiful, healthy seedlings in your garden. Yay!
However, for the next two weeks, there is no rain, and it is hot and windy outside. No!!
That means you’ll need to water your seedlings at least once a week until they’ve established themselves (or perhaps daily if you till your soil, which decreases its moisture retention properties). You may not need to perform any further watering if you get solid 1/2 or bigger rains a couple of times per week.
Some varieties of direct-sown seedlings may require daily watering until they reach a height of about 2 inches in your garden. (Smaller seeds, such as kale and lettuce, are in need, whereas larger seeds, such as beans and squash, aren’t.) To find out, poke about in the earth with your finger.
To decrease water evaporation/loss and limit the possibility of plant foliar diseases, utilize drip irrigation rather than overhead sprinklers if at all possible.
If your plants are well-established and you get adequate rainfall every week or so, you may not need to water them at all. Read our post How to prepare your garden beds for spring to learn how to maximize your soil’s ability to absorb and hold water.
Should you break up roots when repotting?
The majority of healthy container garden plants outgrow their containers at some point. Repotting a rootbound plant is a fantastic approach to give it new life. I used to spend a lot of time repotting container plants in my previous job as a greenhouse manager.
The first step is to recognize when it’s time to repot. Soil that dries out rapidly or has degenerated; roots firmly packed within a container or protruding from drainage holes; and water resting on the soil surface for an extended period of time after watering are all telltale indications. A plant may appear top-heavy or as though it is about to explode out of its pot. When most plants are actively developing, such as in the spring or summer, is the greatest time to repot them. Plants, on the other hand, can typically handle repotting when the circumstance calls for it.
A plant that is ready to be repotted should slide out with the soil intact. The plant may not require repotting if a large portion of the soil has washed away from the roots. If it does, a solid soil-and-root mass in the shape of the just-removed pot will most likely be present. White or light-colored roots are ideal. A major condition, such as fungal disease, is frequently indicated by black, dark-colored, or foul-smelling roots. The second step is to remove a plant from its container. It is beneficial to irrigate the root ball adequately in advance if a plant is rootbound. Invert the pot and support the top of the root ball with one hand for plants in small to medium pots. Place your other hand on the bottom of the pot and fling downwards, stopping abruptly. After one or two throws, many plants will have slipped out. If not, strike the pot’s edge against a solid surface, such as a potting bench, while still holding it in both hands. It may take a few good whacks to get the plant out; don’t break the container.
Roots packed tightly in a pot don’t absorb nutrients as well as they should. Trim the roots and loosen the root ball before replanting to improve nutrient absorption. If required, remove as much as the bottom third of the root ball with a sharp knife or pruning shears. If you chop off a big tangle of root tissue, don’t be startled. Also, about a third of the way up the surviving root ball, make three or four vertical cuts.
To keep the plant from strangling itself with its own roots as it grows, cut through any roots that grow in a circular pattern. Shave or peel away the outer covering of the root ball if the roots are thick along the sides. Alternatively, use your fingers to gently disentangle the root ball, as if you were mussing someone’s hair. Also, do this along the root ball’s top border.
The size of the new pot should be determined by the plant’s potential growth rate, how well it is growing under current conditions, and the plant’s eventual size. Rely on your own perception of what a healthy specimen of a species should resemble. When in doubt, go with the next-larger pot.
Cover the drainage hole(s) with a paper towel, coffee filter, mesh screen, or pot shard to prevent soil from pouring out the bottom of the pot. To avoid sealing the hole, use a pot shard with the convex side up. Gravel or charcoal at the bottom of pots is typical practice, but they don’t help with drainage and take up valuable space, therefore I don’t encourage it.
Put a few inches of moist soil in the pot and lightly push it down to repot a little plant that’s easy to lift. Place the plant in the center of the pot. The goal is to get the root ball’s top to rest approximately an inch below the pot’s rim. If the plant is too deep in the dirt, carefully lift it and add more soil. Remove the plant and dig out some soil if it sits too high, or simply throw the soil out and start over.
Fill the space around the root ball with soil at this point. I’ve noticed two methods for doing this job: “stuffing” and “filling.” Stuffers enjoy compacting soil around a plant. Fillers prefer to fill the pot to the brim with dirt and let it settle in for the first few waterings. I’m mainly a filler, although I occasionally help out with top-heavy plants that need to be balanced. Whether you stuff or fill, leave some space at the top so the pot can contain enough water to properly hydrate the soil with each watering.
How do you know when your snake plant needs water?
You’ve chosen a low-maintenance indoor plant. The upkeep of a snake plant is simple. When the soil dries out, water the plant to keep it looking its best. Touching the soil once a week is the best way to detect whether your plant needs watering. It’s time to water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
- Fill a watering can halfway with room temperature water and water your plant. Allow an hour or so for the plant to soak up the water that drains into the saucer. Any water that has been left out for an extended period of time should be discarded. Alternatively, you can submerge the plant in a sink or bathtub and hydrate it with chilly tap water. Allow the plant to completely drain before returning it to its original spot.
- Snake plant care does not necessitate a lot of fertilizer. You can feed the plant with a houseplant fertilizer once or twice a year, following the package guidelines.