Sedum plants are succulents that belong to the Crassulaceae family and are considered easy to grow in most climates. There are numerous sizes and varieties to pick from, making it possible to find the perfect form for practically any gardening project. Cutting sedum plants back isn’t technically necessary unless they’re growing out of hand. Sedum plant pruning can restrict errant growth and, in some situations, enforce thicker plants if you desire a highly neat appearance. It won’t kill the plant, but pruning sedum plants at the right time will help maintain the starry flowers that most varieties produce.
Sedum can be pruned at any time in warmer areas without affecting the plant’s vigor. The majority of pruning, on the other hand, is done to remove old flower heads and keep the plant in check. You risk removing future flower heads on some of the slower-growing varieties if you prune late in the summer. At any moment, old flowers can be removed. The bloom head is an appealing feature on some of the larger species, such as Autumn Joy stonecrop, and it will last throughout the winter. You have the option of removing these in the fall or waiting until early spring to do so.
In cooler climates, the leaf will die back in the winter and be replaced by beautiful small fresh rosettes in the spring. By pruning back sedum plants to the new growth, it aids in the emergence of new growth while also forming a more neat plant.
When should you cut back sedums?
Spring – In the early spring, trim back the plant all the way to the dirt. This will allow for the emergence of new growth. Cut the stems off with pruning shears. Summer – You may want to trim the plant in half in May or June.
Should I cut back my sedum for the winter?
Tall sedum varieties like “Autumn Joy” (Sedum x “Autumn Joy”), which thrives in USDA zones 5 through 9, flower all winter and need to be pruned in late winter or early spring. Cut the sedum back in the winter as soon as the blossoms fade, or whenever you see green peeping through the ground in the spring. Using pruning shears, cut the entire plant back to ground level, or break the stalks at ground level by hand. The sedum will reappear from the roots in the spring.
Can I divide sedum in the fall?
You should know how to divide sedum so you can spread more of these attractive plants, whether you have little spreading rosettes or towering Autumn Joy stonecrop. Sedums thrive in hot, dry climates and bring lively color and quirky form to difficult-to-plant regions. Sedum separation is a simple project that will quickly increase the number of easy-to-grow plants. New divisions form quickly and require little more attention.
Late fall to early spring is the best time to divide perennial perennials. When you know when to divide sedum, you can ensure that it recovers quickly and roots well. Because many sedum plants die back in colder climates, determining where the plant is until new growth appears in early spring can be difficult. It is best to separate the plants at this time.
Plant division can increase blooms and improve plant health. Every three to four years, sedum should be divided. Some growers advise dividing the plant after it has blossomed and while it is still developing. Although recovery will be longer, these resilient small succulents should be able to bounce back rather quickly.
Sedum Care
Sedum plants, also known as Stonecrop, grow best in full sun with little to no water and, most importantly, well-drained soil. For the flower bed and border, there are larger types that grow to be over two feet tall and wide. There are certain old standbys in the cottage garden, such as “It’s Autumn Joy.” Ground cover types in vibrant greens, grays, and reds that may spread swiftly and flower in early summer, such as “Angelina Jolie”. And everything in the middle! They thrive in practically any garden and make excellent container plants. Sedum plants feature succulent leaves that range in size from small needles to larger and fleshier leaves, and are available in a variety of colors and patterns, including gray, green, purple, blue, and even variegated! Butterflies and bees are attracted to them. And, best of all, they are perennials, meaning they will return year after year.
- Always, always, always, always, always, always, always, always, always, always, always, always, always, always, always, always If you’re going to plant them in containers, add some shredded bark or sand to the soil mix to make it more porous. If your garden soil is heavy, fix it or plant them in raised beds and containers.
- Choose containers that complement the look and feel of the plants. To fit the contemporary vibe these plants give off, think concrete, stone, or simple round bowls if you want to go for a succulent garden aesthetic. But don’t let that stop you from utilizing them in any style of garden; it’s a terrific way to freshen things up!
- Although they can survive without water for long periods of time, I find that if they are in well-drained soil, they look best when watered on a regular basis and let to slightly dry out in between.
- They don’t require a lot of fertilizer or a lot of soil. In fact, if you fertilize your plants too much, they will become floppy, with a lot of stem but few leaves and blooms.
- They can tolerate a little midday shadow, but the taller kinds will flip over if they don’t get enough sun.
- Pinch off the tops of the main stems of taller kinds in the spring, when the plant is around six inches tall. This will drive the plant to grow more compactly, which will solve the flopping over issue I stated earlier.
Once you’ve mastered sedum maintenance, experiment with different hen and chick breeds to grow alongside them. They require the same amount of water and fertilizer as sedums and make excellent companion plants. Sempervirens is the Latin name for these succulents, so you know you’re getting the appropriate one. This image from ‘Sunset’ demonstrates how amazing they appear in containers together.
Why does my sedum fall over?
Sedum plants can produce flower clusters as large as a man’s fist or even larger. The top-heavy sedum can typically support the massive flower on the sturdy stock, but the flower may bow to the ground or the stalk may even break on rare occasions.
An overabundance of nutrients in the soil causes weak stems. Sedum plants tolerate a wide range of growth conditions and can even survive in sandy or gritty soil. Rich, wet soil will cause the stems to bow, resulting in your sedums to topple over. To avoid this, add a little sand to the site soil before planting the succulents.
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia)
Blanket flowers are one of my favorite perennials, and they’re simple to winterize.
Cut back the flower stalks in late October if you want a clean landscape. You can leave them until next year if you don’t mind their presence in the garden.
Because blanket flowers are sensitive to wet soil, don’t mulch them in the winter.
Bronze Fennel (Foeniculm vulgare)
Bronze fennel, a favored diet of swallowtail caterpillars, is becoming a more common addition to gardens. Just keep an eye on the prolific self-seeding!
Catmint (Nepeta)
Catmint and I have a love-hate relationship. It’s a great plant for introducing cold tones to a space, as long as you give it plenty of room to grow. Fortunately, catmint may be aggressively trimmed at any time of year.
You can prune these back to a few inches from the ground in the fall, but there will be a hole in your garden until they flush back in the spring.
If catmint is a foundation of your perennial border, more modest cuttings of about half the plant’s height in the fall are recommended, along with frequent summers pruning.
Columbine (Aquilegia)
Columbine flowers remind me of futuristic spaceships, which I like… In enclosed places, though, their constant self-seeding isn’t so nice.
Columbine flowers and seedpods can be pruned back in the fall to prevent self-seeding. Otherwise, it’s best to let the plant’s foliage alone over the winter.
Daylily (Hemerocallis)
Even with its unflattering nickname of “ditch lily,” I’ve always been an admirer of the local daylily.
Leave the leaf on these plants to overwinter, and you’ll have an unappealing but free mulch. If you want to plan ahead for a less stressful spring, prune back the foliage of the daylily in the fall to avoid a headache later.
Japanese Anemone (Anemone hupehensis)
The foliage and stems of the fall-blooming anemone can be left standing over the winter, but if they turn black following frosts, they should be cut to the ground.
Peony (Paeonia)
Another “too much fungus!” sufferer. The peony is a lovely flower that produces an unappealing pile of fall foliage.
Most gardeners are salivating at the prospect of chopping these guys down as soon as possible. Cut the leaves back to the ground when the first hard frost arrives.
Salvia
Salvia, an ever-present element in any perennial bed, blooms numerous times and attracts desirable species like as hummingbirds and honeybees.
Woody salvia benefits from a strong fall pruning, which reduces the plant’s size by nearly half, and should be cut back regularly during the season by removing wasted flowers.
Veronica
Veronica is a lovely plant to have in any garden because it is a low-maintenance perennial.
Cut veronica (also known as speedwell or gypsyweed) down to a few inches above the ground after the first heavy frost. In the spring, it’ll be as happy as a clam.
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Yarrow is a popular and necessary addition to any meadow-like border, with its distinctive bloom shape and intriguing leaves.
Fall pruning, which involves cutting the plant back to the basal leaves, works wonders for these plants.
What does sedum look like in winter?
Autumn Joy, a tall sedum cultivar, is known for its spectacular fall flower display. Autumn sedums are in full bloom at a time when most of the garden is closing down. Tall sedums dry down as fall turns to winter, but their frost-kissed stems remain lovely. Some creeping sedums, such as Sedum tetractinum, have red or purple leaves that turn red or purple in the winter.
Sedums and Cut Flowers:
Sedums grow tall and give superb cut flowers. Cut the stem, peel some of the leaves at the bottom, and eat once the majority of the florets have opened. Cut flowers from tall sedums dry well as well.
Does sedum stay green in winter?
Sedum (Sedum), a hardy succulent also known as stonecrop or as the genus Hylotelephium, grows up to 2 feet tall and has at least 500 recognized cultivars. The majority of types grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9 and are resistant to cold, heat, and dry soil. Tall sedum dies back in the winter and reappears in the spring in colder areas. In warmer climes, however, it stays a beautiful addition to the garden throughout the winter, with its continuous green foliage and bright blossoms.
Does sedum need to be covered for frost?
She discovered that the yucca ‘Wall Bright Star’ can withstand temperatures as low as 0 degrees Fahrenheit, while the agave ‘After Glow’ is more cold tolerant. These specimens were discovered by Baron at Petaluma’s Cottage Gardens.
The hardiness of variegated specimens appears to be lower. Frost is not a friend of euphorbias. Even though they are deemed hardy to 30 degrees, container plants are more vulnerable to lower temperatures.
Crassula sarcocaulis can withstand temperatures as low as 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Sempervivums, sometimes known as hens and chicks, can withstand frigid temperatures. Sedums, commonly known as stonecrops, seem to be unaffected by the chilly temperatures.
All of your succulents should be covered with frost-resistant material that breathes and allows moisture and sunshine to pass through, according to Baron.
Throughout the colder months, lightweight sheets thrown over the plant work well, but they must be removed during the day.
Place the containers under eaves or in other safe places. Wait until the weather warms up before going out on the water.
If you have a mini-greenhouse or something bigger, add some low-voltage lights for extra warmth and keep the pots gently covered with frost protectant material, sometimes known as floating row covers, until they are no longer needed.
Finally, she has kept her succulents alive by covering those in pots, those planted in the ground, and even those in her greenhouse.
When the temperature dropped to 28 degrees in my garden, the sedums, sempervivums, Orostachys, Senecio mandraliscae, Crassula cocinea ‘Campfire,’ Rhodiela, and Aloe nobilis were unaffected.
Read the plant label when buying succulents; it will typically inform you how cold-hardy the plant is. Some species within a genus may be more hardy than others.
The number of days with low temperatures, as well as a protracted rainy spell as we had, can affect hardiness.
Readers who live in a warmer atmosphere will be able to grow the succulent types that are a little more delicate.
Surprisingly, visiting neighbors in your neighborhood who have had little to no plant frost damage can also assist you figure out which succulents will do well in your own garden.
“Succulent Container Gardens, Design Eye-Catching Displays with 350 Easy-Care Plants,” by Debra Lee Baldwin, is a fantastic reference book for all succulent fans.
This book covers a wide range of topics, including succulent cultural requirements, individual plant hardiness, and intriguing container arrangements that use color, texture, and size to suit each container.
Cynthia wonders how a yucca differs from an agave in terms of physical qualities.
Yuccas are mounding succulents that grow 2 to 3 feet tall and feature spiky foliage with stringy hairs along the margins. In the early or mid-summer, they produce flowers on stalks.
Agaves’ leaves are roughly 18 inches long and 3 inches wide, with sharp spiky points, and they grow in clumps. Agaves, often known as century plants, grow flowers on stalks that reach several feet above the leaf cluster when they do.
Is it okay to graft a citrus onto a camellia, as Jess S. asks? If it isn’t absolutely required, don’t remove the camellia’s root system.