How To Make Devils Ivy Climb

Lack of light results in the disappearance of variegations. Although Devil’s Ivy is a great choice for shady areas, its variegations will suffer as a result. To enable the variegations to form on the new growth, move the plant to a brighter location with little direct sunlight. Simply skip this stage if you aren’t completely upset over the defeat. On the other hand, excessive sunshine is often the source of significant variegations that prevent the plant from producing chlorophyll (green pigmentation).

When specimens are left in overly damp or saturated soil for extended periods of time, root rot is a common problem. Rapid leaf yellowing, reduced growth, and a decaying brown base are symptoms. Examine the plant’s health below the soil level after removing it from the pot. You’re good to go if the roots have a golden tint, but you need to act right away if they’re mushy and brown. On this link, you may learn more about treating root rot.

Pest infestations can start in the original nursery or through household contamination, and they might appear at any time. Spider mites and mealybugs are frequently seen on Devil’s Ivy. The first is a tiny, nearly transparent pest that browses the leaves in search of chlorophyll and a place to lay its eggs. The latter, however, will be considerably more noticeable as white cottony webs form on the stems and foliage. Before giving the plant the all-clear, thoroughly inspect its cubbyholes. You can also learn more about resolving these issues by clicking on the relevant links.

Use lukewarm water at all times; if you decide to use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours before applying. Pouring cold tap water right away into the container will not only add fluoride to the soil, but it may also cause the Devil’s Ivy to become sensitive to temperature changes and eventually develop yellowed leaves!

This problem was brought on by utilizing tap water that was too cold and by inadequate fertilization. It is best to use tap water that has been allowed to sit for 24 hours because it will help the temperature to stabilize and has hygiene-enhancing chemicals. To prevent the new, juvenile growth from acquiring these concerns, prune the worst-affected areas and fertilize with a feed with the label “Houseplant.”

Too little water and too much sun exposure cause curled leaves and brown leaf edges. Devil’s Ivy thrives in sunny, indirect environments, and those who haven’t adapted to the strong light will exhibit signs of sunburn and culture shock. As long as the soil moisture is continuously monitored and once summer arrives, complete avoidance, a little winter sunshine is fine.

Low humidity levels might result in yellow haloes surrounding browning leaf tips. While this won’t harm your specimen, you could want to provide more moisture to the area to stop the new growth from displaying these symptoms. While the heaters are running, mist or clean the leaves occasionally and establish a humidity tray to maintain a stable atmosphere for your specimen.

This problem might be caused by irregular watering, which includes both under- and then over-watering. To prevent abrupt droughts that could lead to stunted development, consider using a “watering-rota.”

The browning of each cataphyll shouldn’t have been a cause for concern because it’s a completely natural process that happens to all specimens worldwide. Use your hands to peel back the browned tissue and enhance the appearance of the product once the browned portion has become dry and crispy.

Lower, closest to the soil, yellowing leaves are a blatant symptom of overwatering, which is typically brought on by insufficient light. Even if they can thrive in darker areas, the frequency of irrigations must be decreased to avoid the possibility of root rot. People are unaware that plants’ roots also require access to oxygen; when soil is moistened, air rises and escapes the potting soil. The roots will deteriorate during the next days due to a lack of readily available oxygen. To understand more about root rot and how to prevent it, visit this website. For confirmation, always feel the weight of the pot (heaviness indicates good soil moisture, and vice versa).

A great approach to encourage longer vines is to let devil’s ivy climb up moss poles or walls. Local hardware stores provide sticky-pad clips for fairly reasonable costs.


The Arecace family, which includes genera including Spathiphyllum (Peace Lilies), Alocasia, and Zamioculcas, includes Devil’s Ivy (ZZ plants). Since being formally categorized in 1880, it has gone by a number of names, including Pothos, Rhaphidophora aurea, and finally into the genus Epipremnum. The last natural flower of the species was observed in 1962, the same year that its name changed from Pothos to Rhapidophora, indicating that it is reluctant to blossom. Despite the name change, the plant’s new home in this genus wasn’t there for long; after closer examination of its flowers revealed striking resemblance to another species, Epipremnum, it was quickly displaced. The name “Devil’s Ivy” relates to both the plant’s hardiness and ability to stay green even in extremely gloomy environments. The term “Scindapsus,” which was first used in 1908, was taken from the four-stringed instrument skindapsos of Ancient Greece. The two most well-known species of the genus, E. pictum and E. aurea, are native to the Society Islands and are respectively translated from Latin as “gold or golden” and from Greek as “to paint.”


12 – 30C (54 – 86F) H1b (Hardiness Zone 12) – This plant can be cultivated indoors or outdoors throughout the summer in a protected area with temperatures above 12C (54F). If you choose to grow this plant outside, limit its exposure to the sun to no more than an hour each day to prevent sunburn. Watch out for bugs frequently, especially while bringing it back inside.


When given a structure to climb up, the final height will take between 5 and 8 years to achieve; it can reach heights of up to 8m and 3m. Devil’s Ivy can grow up to 20 meters tall in the wild, however smaller root systems and less ideal growing conditions will greatly lower the overall height.

Pruning & Maintenance

To promote healthier growing conditions, remove yellow or decaying leaves as well as any plant detritus. Always use clean shears or scissors when pruning to lower the risk of bacterial and fungal infections. Never cut through yellowed tissue as this could lead to severe harm from bacterial infections or other disorders. To avoid shocking the plant and resulting in decreased growth and a decline in health, always create clean incisions.

Even if the aerial roots aren’t particularly attractive, you shouldn’t remove them because doing so can stress the plant and possibly make it more susceptible to illnesses.


  • Pick vines that are mature, healthy, and woody, but that are yet young enough to gently bend. The vine must be at least 12 cm (4.7 inches) long and have two nodes for this form of propagation to be used from spring to summer (one for foliar development and the other for root growth). Although additional nodes are acceptable, make sure to just immerse the bottom ones to prevent improper roots elsewhere, which will be more challenging when it comes time to insert the soil.
  • To lower the bacteria count, make a clean knife-cut right beneath a node. The vines should be placed in a bowl of lukewarm water once the lower half of the leaves have been removed. At least one node must be submerged in the water for the root formation to occur.
  • For the purpose of preventing disease, the leaves must remain above the waterline.
  • Use lukewarm water to replace the old water every week to avoid scaring the cutting with cold temperatures.
  • When the cutting’s roots measure more than 4 cm (2 inches), it’s time to pot it.
  • Pick a potting mix; most soils are suitable as long as they are well-draining. The ideal compost is “houseplant” compost, but multi-purpose compost that has a dash of grit or perlite is also suitable.
  • Use a 7cm (3 inches) pot with adequate drainage holes; terracotta or plastic are equally excellent in this situation. Avoid over-potting the cuttings since blackleg develops when the bottom wound becomes infected, which is often brought on by water logging or an excessively damaged wound. See the article’s final image, which is toward the bottom.
  • Maintaining the leaves above the soil level, place the cutting into the compost.
  • For the first few weeks, put the potted plants within a clear plastic bag to provide optimum humidity and protect them from direct sunshine.
  • To avoid disease, open the bag for 30 minutes every two days. After a month in the soil, take it out of the bag and take care of it as directed above.


  • Pick vines that are mature, healthy, and woody, but that are yet young enough to gently bend. Using two nodes that already contain aerial roots, this propagation technique can be used all year round (image above). The bottom node should be used for root development and the upper node for foliar growth; there shouldn’t be more than two nodes. Every cutting should have a single leaf, therefore remove the lowest leaf.
  • To lower the bacteria count, make a clean knife-cut right beneath a node. Take off the lowest leaf, then plant the vine in a moist potting soil that drains well. The ideal compost is “houseplant” compost because it contains perlite, which promotes improved soil air circulation.
  • Use a 5-inch pot with good drainage holes; either plastic or terracotta will do in this situation. Avoid over-potting the cuttings since blackleg develops when the bottom wound becomes infected, which is often brought on by water logging or an excessively damaged wound. See the article’s final image, which is toward the bottom.
  • Maintaining the leaves above the soil level, place the cutting into the compost. Root development will be hampered if the lower node is not fully buried in the soil.
  • Provide a warm, indirect environment that is sufficiently lit, and keep radiators away from direct sunlight. For the first few weeks, seal in extra humidity by placing the potted cutting inside a clear plastic bag to prevent drying out. Throughout this process, keep the compost moist but not drenched.
  • To avoid disease, open the bag for 30 minutes every two days. Remove the bag and continue with the care instructions after a month in the soil.


It is obvious that Devil’s Ivy flowers are uncommon; the last one to bloom in the wild was in 1962. For those who are curious, Devil’s Ivy is a member of the Arace family, which is characterized by a spadix encircled by a spathe with a spoonlike shape. The peace lily is the best illustration of this.


Never remove the aerial roots that are linked to a specimen if you plan to repot it because doing so could cause the plant more stress. Purchase a second pole of the same size and extend it by inserting it directly into the hollowed-out top of the first one. It may be necessary to remove some of the moss-like material from the top in order to reach the hollow center. Get a long, robust stick that is about the same length as the total length of the two poles, and place it in the middle of the two to hold the weight. Perform the repo BEFORE adding another pole because doing so will be more difficult because to the weight distribution and general balance. NEVER over-touch the root system or remove soil from the roots as this might result in transplant shock and even death.

If you’d like a personalized tutorial on repotting or training your houseplant onto a wall or moss pole, schedule a 1-on-1 video session with Joe Bagley. The appropriate branded-compost and pot size will be suggested, and a live video call will be made while you transplant the specimen to provide step-by-step instructions and address any other questions.


Due to the presence of calcium oxalate crystals in various amounts all over the plant, it is considered poisonous. Ingestion of the plants’ components may result in nausea, vomiting, and a loss of appetite. Large amounts should be consumed right away; get medical help if you need more information.

Retail Locations

British Garden Centres, Homebase, B&Q, IKEA, Dobbies, Blue Diamond, and online retailers. Oasis Floral sells tiny “Mossing Pins” that are used to secure young vines to moss poles.

Can you climb devil’s ivy?

Devil’s Ivy, commonly known as Scindapsus, can grow in both hanging and climbing patterns. Heart-shaped satiny leaves with silver, light green, yellow, or whitish dots or a flame pattern make this houseplant stand out. It is also a dependable companion because, with proper care, this domestic marvel may live a very long time and still look lovely. Devil’s ivy is one of the plants that helps improve the air quality in your home, according to the NASA Clean Air Study, so the plant also provides something back in exchange for your tender care.

Araceae is the family that includes devil’s ivy, which grows in south-east Asia, Indonesia, and the Solomon Islands. It prefers to climb trees in tropical rainforests.

  • Devil’s ivy is offered for sale as a hanging and climbing plant. In all situations, it’s critical to ensure that the plant’s length and thickness are appropriate for the form.
  • The houseplant should have an even distribution of leaves and should be nicely rounded on all sides. The tendrils of a hanging plant must be so long that they are already dangling from the pot’s side.
  • The presence of brown stains on the leaf during shipping and storage denotes excessive moisture.
  • While being transported and stored, the temperature must be at least 12C or greater. When it is colder outside, Devil’s Ivy should be wrapped up to stay warm.

The range of Devil’s Ivy is fairly constrained. The most popular variety includes green leaves with patterns of light green or yellow. Small grey dots are present on “Argyraeus,” and “Trebie” has coarser leaves and more marbling of grey. More soft grey is present in the leaves of the ‘Silvery Ann’ cultivar.

  • Devil’s ivy prefers a bright area, but ideally not one that is in direct sunlight or a draft.
  • The plant requires more light the paler the leaves are.
  • While a little moisture in the soil is acceptable, try to avoid letting the roots stand in water.
  • If you give Devil’s Ivy some plant food once a month, it will continue to grow.
  • The plant enjoys receiving a plant spray mist.
  • The tendrils can simply be clipped back if they become too long.

By showcasing both hanging and climbing plants, you can highlight Devil’s Ivy’s adaptability. The appearance of a green curtain or room divider is quickly created when a few hanging specimens are placed side by side. The plant becomes fashionable and sports a particularly eye-catching silhouette when the moss pole of the climbing specimens is swapped out for a branch with a more natural appearance. One of the few houseplants that allows the tendrils to be displayed lying down is Devil’s Ivy.

The photographs below are free to download and use as long as you give credit.