When To Water Ponytail Palm

If you are watering your ponytail palms once a week, then you are doing right by them.

Ponytail palms’ bulb base holds water, so they don’t need to be watered frequently.

The plant thrives in warm, dry air, moderate temperatures, and plenty of sunlight and can reach heights of up to 2 meters.

Water them once a week while they are developing. The soil should be allowed to dry out in between waterings, though.

In the absence of this, your ponytail palm may be susceptible to pests and illnesses brought on by root rot.

Watering During Summer

Overwatering is equally as prevalent, though. So, you shouldn’t leave the plant’s roots submerged for an extended period of time.

Therefore, water your ponytail palm every two to three weeks to prevent any annoyance to the plant.

You should first examine the dirt. Water the plant if the top 2-3 inches of soil are dry.

Wait a few days before watering if the top 2-3 inches of soil are still wet.

Ponytail palms grow most actively in the summer. As a result, they also need more water and nutrients. The summertime heat might also result in water loss.

Watering During Winter

Slow growth occurs in the plant during the winter. As a result, both the temperature and the amount of water needed decrease.

You can water once a month in the winter. Examine the soil. Water your plant if the top 2-3 inches of soil are dry.

To prevent the roots from needing to be wet for an extended period of time, you can maintain the plant in a sunny area. This could stop root rot.

How frequently do ponytail palms need to be watered?

Overwatering or letting it stay in wet conditions for an extended period of time are the two biggest mistakes you can make when taking care of your Ponytail palm. This will definitely cause rot to grow, and you risk losing your plant. This is also another factor that makes growing it in well-drained soil essential for healthy growth.

Because they can withstand drought well, plants are more understanding when you neglect to water them than when you water them excessively. In addition to providing the plant a distinctive appearance, its broad base also serves as a water storage area.

Unlike many houseplants, ponytail palms don’t require regular watering. In actuality, watering should only be done once every two weeks at most. Before adding extra water, give the soil time to dry up. When you water, make sure to water well and let the water drain through the pot’s bottom drain holes. You should empty the drip tray or cache pot once the soil has fully drained.

The following are the greatest kinds of water to use on your ponytail:

  • Utilize warm water rather than cold.
  • Useful rainwater is available.
  • Before utilizing, let the water from your faucet soak outside all night.

Ponytail palms are dormant and not actively growing in the winter. As a result, they need even less water than they need throughout the spring through summer growing season. Most likely, you won’t need to water your plant more frequently than every two to three weeks.

Sticking your finger into the soil and feeling for dryness three to four inches down will help you determine whether you need to water.

Ponytail palms can survive without water for how long?

It requires less regular watering because water is held in the trunk for longer periods of time. In order for the soil of your Ponytail palm to dry completely between waterings, you must wait until the following week if you are unsure whether or not to water the plant. You can be certain that your Pony tail palm has been underwatered if it develops dry, brown leaf, a shrunken stem, or dried roots. Watering plants too much might smother their roots and lead to deterioration. Remember that the Ponytail Palm is extremely drought tolerant due to the fact that its enormously thick, bulbous trunk acts as a reservoir, storing water against dry spells. Due to this property, the tree may go up to four weeks without water without suffering any damage. Ponytails typically require watering every two weeks, although there is no specific schedule for this. By inserting your finger into the dirt, you may periodically inspect your bonsai. When the topsoil feels dry, water deeply and thoroughly. Do not water the tree if the soil is cool or damp. Make sure the soil is well-draining and the roots are not resting in water before watering again if yellow leaves starts to emerge. Wait a few days before watering again. Our Haws Watering Set, which includes a professional mister and a watering can, will enable you to provide your Ponytail Palm with just the right amount of water.

Can you overwater a ponytail palm?

Let’s tidy up your plant first. This enables the plant to focus its efforts on encouraging healthy new development.

  • Use a pair of sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut off the affected area or the entire brown frond (they won’t turn green again).
  • Between each cut, use rubbing alcohol to clean the scissors’ blades.
  • Because you never want to remove more than 20% of the problematic leaves at once, you might need to trim your plant in stages to avoid shocking it. Let’s now restore the health of your Ponytail Palm.

Although your Ponytail Palm can withstand droughts well, you shouldn’t ignore it entirely. Make sure your plant is not being overwatered or overgrown. Water on a regular basis, only when the soil feels fully dry.

The leaves of your Ponytail Palm may get limp, droop, and potentially even begin to brown and curl if the soil is unintentionally left entirely dry for an extended period of time. The trunk could also start to droop and wrinkle. A thorough soak is required if the soil is completely dry throughout the pot and there are indications of severe underwatering.

How to soak-water your ponytail palm is as follows:

  • Without the saucer, put your plant in the sink or bathtub. Pour roughly 3 to 4 cups of water into your basin. Check to see if the water is warm.
  • Give your plant at least 45 minutes to absorb water through the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot.
  • After giving your plant a soak, feel the soil’s top to see if the water has gotten to the top 2-3 inches.
  • Water your Ponytail Palm softly from the top of the soil to assist hasten soil saturation if not all of it feels soaked.
  • Drain the sink or tub once the soil of your plant is evenly moist, and then leave it to rest while it completely drains. Put the plant back in its proper place on the saucer.

Should I hydrate the bottom of my ponytail palm?

large lifting When your Ponytail Palm is freshly irrigated and when the earth is fully dry and it has to be hydrated, pay attention to its weight. Has your plant lost a lot of its normal weight? If so, you should hydrate.

Test the moisture content of the soil by inserting your finger there. Do the roots feel any dryness in the soil? Then now would be a good moment to water. Hold off for a few days and perform the “touch test” once more before watering if you see any moisture at all. One of the most frequent issues the Ponytail Palm faces is overwatering, therefore only provide water when the soil is absolutely dry.

The leaves of your Ponytail Palm may get limp, droop, and potentially even begin to brown and curl if the soil is unintentionally left entirely dry for an extended period of time. The trunk could also start to droop and wrinkle. A thorough soak is necessary if the soil is very dry over the entire container.

What does a ponytail palm that is overwatered look like?

  • Often, over or underwatering causes this. Insufficient water causes the leaves to turn brown and brittle, while too much water can result in brown tips with noticeable yellowing. With a fresh pair of sheers, trim the leaves and then assess the soil to determine the appropriate watering schedule.
  • Most likely not! Simply said, these plants grow extremely slowly. There is nothing to be concerned about as long as your plant appears to be in good health.
  • The first symptom of overwatering is the yellowing of the leaf tips. If this occurs, stop watering the plant until the soil is completely dry and then cut back on the amount of water you give it. Other symptoms of overwatering include drooping leaves and a soft, squishy base to the plant.
  • Fertilizing indoor plants from spring through fall generally results in their thriving. Use an organic houseplant fertilizer once a month, dilution and application instructions on the container. In order to ensure that your plant doesn’t require fertilizer within the first six months of receiving it, Greenery NYC employs an organic potting mix with a slow release fertilizer in the soil.
  • We advise repotting smaller desktop plants every 12 to 18 months. In order to allow for growth, you should typically select a potting vessel with a diameter that is 1- 2 larger. Selecting a pot that is significantly larger than the previous one could drown the plant’s roots. Repot your plant into the same container, add additional soil, and remove some roots and foliage if you’d like to keep it at its current size. Repotting should be done in the spring or summer when the plant is at its healthiest.

Shrunken bulbs

A full, firm bulb will be present at the base of a well-watered ponytail palm. A base that has been submerged, however, will be wrinkled, deflated, and shriveled. This indicates that the water reserve of the plant has run low.

Limp, droopy leaves

Ponytail palms that have been submerged will have withered and drooping foliage. The change may not be immediately noticeable because the leaves of these plants are naturally recurved, which means the leaf border turns downward. However, you will notice the leaves are quite limp and are hanging lower than usual.

Crispy or brown leaf tips

Browning foliage with the darkening beginning at the tips is another telltale symptom of a ponytail palm that has been submerged. The edges of the leaf blades will be curling and they will be dry and crispy.

Dry soil

Put your fingertips into the soil’s surface to conduct the finger test. Water your plant well if the top two to three inches are entirely dry. Wait approximately a week before checking the soil again if it’s damp.

How can I maintain a healthy ponytail palm?

Ponytail palms are an eye-catching indoor plant with a long lifespan that benefits from mild neglect. As long as you don’t overwater them, they are quite simple to grow. Here’s information on how to grow and maintain a ponytail palm at home.

About Ponytail Palms

The ponytail palm is not a true palm despite its name and palm-like appearance “palm. Actually, it has more in common with desert plants of the Agave and Yucca genera (such as Joshua trees).

Ponytail palms typically have a big, domed “tapers off into a thinner stem from the stump. As the plant becomes older, one or more rosettes of lengthy, green, leathery leaves emerge from the top of the stem. The leaves can grow up to three feet long indoors, but they may be double that length outside.

The entire plant has been observed to grow up to 30 feet tall in its natural habitat (eastern Mexico). Ponytail palms, on the other hand, rarely grow taller than 10 feet when grown in gardens as landscape plants. They rarely grow taller than 4 feet when kept indoors.

The most frequent challenge in caring for this plant is needing to change your watering routine to meet its watering requirements!

Choosing Soil and a Pot

  • Use a soil that quickly drains, such as cactus and succulent potting soil. You can make your own desert soil mix if you already have potting soil, sand, and perlite on hand: Simply combine 1 part perlite, 1 part sand, and 1 part potting soil.
  • Choose a pot with a hole in the bottom so that any extra water may drain. Ponytail palms do not enjoy spending a lot of time in wet soil.
  • If at all feasible, use a clay pot; the porous material will absorb part of the water, speeding up the soil’s drying process (a good thing for cacti and succulents).

How to Care for Ponytail Palms

  • Place the plant in a bright area as ponytail palms want to get as much light as possible. The optimum light is direct, bright light.
  • Dry out the soil somewhat. Water your garden from spring to fall, waiting until the top inch or two of soil is fully dry before watering again. Only sporadically water in the winter.
  • Water the soil by soaking it, then let the extra water drain into a dish via the pot’s bottom. After letting the pot rest in the dish for a while, drain any residual water.
  • For the summer, move the plant into a room with more light after fertilizing in the spring with a cactus/succulent fertilizer.
  • For the majority of the year, keeping the plant at room temperature is good, but in the winter (50-55F / 10-13C), keep it a little cooler to mimic the natural dormancy cycle.
  • Avoid placing the plant too close to cold windows at night during the winter months since freezing temperatures can cause serious damage.

Repotting a Ponytail Palm

  • Ponytail palms may be kept in a little pot and will stay that size. They don’t usually need to be repotted for many years. A ponytail palm only requires repotting every other year at most.
  • The plant can expand its height and girth by being moved to a larger pot. However, if elder plants are not kept on the smaller scale, they may become difficult to manage because of their sheer bulk and weight.
  • Pick a pot that is big enough to give the ponytail palm’s trunk about an inch or two of room between it and the rim when choosing a new one.
  • Be careful when handling a ponytail palm since the edges of its leaves are minutely serrated.

Propagation

  • Rarely, a ponytail palm will create an offset, a little young plant that grows from the main plant’s base. When they grow to a minimum height of 4 inches, these can be pruned at the base and put in a succulent potting soil. To encourage the offset to root, use a small amount of rooting hormone (available online and in nurseries) once the cut incision has healed before planting.
  • The plant’s peculiar form and coloring have earned it the odd moniker “elephant’s foot palm.”
  • Stem rot can be caused by overwatering. Withholding watering may allow the plant to address the issue on its own. Yellowing leaves and a soft or squishy caudex (the plant’s base and stem) are indicators of stem rot.
  • Spider mites are present on the leaves, but they can be removed by wiping the stems with a cloth dampened with dish detergent and water. Spider-like webbing on the plant is a sign that there are spider mites present.
  • The appearance of brown tips on leaves may indicate overfertilization or underwatering; therefore, modify your husbandry techniques as necessary. They might also indicate that the plant is receiving too little water and too much direct sunlight.