Splitting occurs only after the more mature leaves have grown wide enough to block sunlight from other portions of the plant, which normally takes at least two years.
In other words, until they are more mature plants, such as 2-3 years old, your young monstera plant will either have no holes or will not go through the monstera fenestration process.
My holey leaves plant started splitting after two years, which was fortunate for me. The most significant game-changer was placing this tropical plant near a window with ample of natural light.
Splits in the leaves create needed drainage
Monstera leaves split as they grow and adapt to the water and wind, in addition to enabling light to pass through. A mature monstera plant’s huge leaves can also be used to form water-holding recesses, envelopes, and ponds.
Standing water on the massive leaves can breed bacteria and fungi that cause root rot, therefore the leaves are divided to provide good drainage and alleviate these concerns.
Monstera leaves allow air to pass through
Finally, if left uncut, enormous, fully formed monstera leaves would act as wind parachutes. In windy situations, this phenomenon may cause the leaves to be pulled off.
Wind can freely pass through the openings in the leaves without causing major damage to the plant.
Why is my split-leaf philodendron not splitting?
While insufficient light is the most typical cause of your monstera’s failure to generate split leaves, improper watering or fertilization can also be an issue. Make sure your monstera gets enough water so that the soil doesn’t dry out for lengthy periods of time, but keep in mind that they don’t appreciate sitting in water for long periods of time. Fertilize your swiss cheese plant only during the growing season, since too much fertilization during the winter months might stunt your monstera’s natural growth.
There are several things you can take to ensure that your Monstera is properly watered:
Consider a decent self-watering pot if you want a flawless, set-and-forget method for ensuring your Monstera gets the appropriate amount of water. This one from Amazon is one of our favorites and we use it all the time, especially when we’re going away for a while and won’t be able to keep things in order!
Monitor the moisture
You should only water your Monstera when the time comes. Too much or too little water can harm your plant and prevent it from maturing sufficiently to produce split leaves. A water monitor will greatly assist you in determining when to water your Monstera. This Amazon-available moisture meter is one of our favorites.
Use terracotta pots
Because they allow some moisture to escape from the sides, clay and terracotta pots are significantly healthier for your Monstera’s health than plastic pots. All of the moisture in the soil is kept in plastic containers. These Amazon terracotta pots are fantastic.
Why is my philodendron splitting?
The Split Leaf Philodendron, like other kinds, prefers indirect sunshine. When picking a location, keep in mind that too much direct sunlight during the day will scorch and burn the leaves.
Short periods of direct light should not be a concern because the plant is fairly hardy, but keep an eye on its overall health.
If you notice that your Split Leaf has browned or burnt leaves, it’s time to move it away from the window or find a new position for it.
If your plant, on the other hand, isn’t generating new leaves, it may be due to a lack of light. Your Split Leaf Philodendron’s development might be stunted by insufficient light, which can also lead to overwatering.
Less light means less photosynthesis, which means the plant won’t get enough food to thrive.
To keep your plant growing, place it near a window that receives enough of indirect light.
Do all Philodendrons split?
While both Monstera and Philodendron are members of the Araceae family, they belong to different genera, making them two distinct plants. Monsteras and Philodendrons cannot cross-pollinate to create new plant hybrids because of this.
Split-leaf Philodendron and Monstera have a few physical differences as well. The most notable difference is that Monsteras have fenestrated leaves, whilst split-leaf Philodendrons do not. The holes in adult Monstera leaves are known as fenestrations, and while split-leaf Philodendrons have split-leaves, they lack fenestrations.
True split-leaf Philodendrons do not climb, despite the fact that many Philodendrons do. Monsteras are notable for their enormous aerial roots that cling to trees. Monsteras bear fruit, whereas Philodendrons don’t. A minor distinction is that fresh Philodendron leaves are usually protected by a sheath known as a cataphyll.
Split-leaf tea is a true split-leaf tea. The leaf texture of a Philodendron differs significantly from that of a Monstera. Monsteras have a smoother, flatter appearance, but Thaumatophyllum Bipinnatifidum has a ruffled appearance.
How can you tell the difference between a split leaf and a Monstera philodendron?
Because there are so many diverse species, it’s only natural that some of them may exhibit characteristics that are more frequently associated with Monsteras.
- Split-leaf philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum): this plant is frequently sold under the name Monstera deliciosa, and it’s easy to confuse the two. The shape and size of the leaves are what distinguishes the two. The leaves of the philodendron are narrower and divided rather than fenestrated. Monstera leaves are spherical and heart-shaped, and they have a feather-like appearance.
- Philodendron minimum is a difficult plant to grow. It has oval-shaped, split leaves that resemble those of a Monstera, and as a result, it’s sometimes referred to as a’mini monstera’ in the plant trade. It’s not a Philodendron with holes or a Monstera, though. Rhaphidophora tetrasperma belongs to the Rhaphidophora genus and is an entirely different species.
Allow Bright, Indirect Sunlight Exposure
Among all the variables that support fenestration on a monstera, light is at the top of the list.
Most Monstera plants I’ve seen fail to fenestrate because they’re kept in a dark, shaded corner of the house.
What does a split-leaf philodendron look like?
Split-leaf philodendron (Monstera deliciosa), often known as Swiss cheese plant or windowleaf, is a tropical plant native to Central American rainforests from southern Mexico to Panama. It is commonly planted as a foliage houseplant. In 1752, England became the first country to cultivate it. It’s the only decorative aroid with edible fruit. Despite its common name, it is not a member of the genus Philodendron (although it was previously classed as such), although it does belong to the same family (Araceae). It has leathery leaves that are glossy, heart-shaped, or rounded, with deep clefts and oblong perforations as they age. On foot-long leafstalks, the leaves can be up to 18″ broad. Variegated foliage is found in the cultivars ‘Variegata’ and ‘Albovariegata,’ and the leaves are smaller than the species.
This plant is an evergreen liana, a trailing or ascending epiphytic vine that climbs high into the rainforest canopy in nature. It can reach a height of 70 feet or more and only seldom branches. The leaf scars are rough on the hefty, cylindrical 21/2-3″ stems.
As it climbs upward, it creates multiple long tentacle-like aerial roots that cling to adjacent branches and tree trunks. The strong roots grow downward from the thick stem, and if they come into contact with the earth, they will root.
The young plants have a distinct appearance. Seedlings grow upwards until they come across a tree, at which point they grow into the darkest part. In a stage known as “shingle plants,” the leaves are small and lack lobes or holes, and they grow closely overlapping each other up the tree trunk. As they become older, they start to create the mature plant’s leaf. The fenestrations (holes in the leaves) are supposed to allow powerful winds can pass through without destroying the huge leaves.
The flowers are an 8-12″ long, creamy-white Jack-in-the-pulpit kind, which is rarely found on houseplants. The boat-shaped spathe surrounds the fleshy upright spike (spadix) with small flowers. The fruit matures in a little over a year, growing into a 9″ cone-like structure that resembles a green cob of corn with hexagonal kernels. The edible fruits, known as cerimans or monsteras, are heavy in potassium and Vitamin C and are said to taste like a mix of banana, pineapple, and mango. They’re used to flavor cocktails and ice cream, or they’re eaten straight from the tree. From the bottom up, the fruit ripens. The off-white, custard-like pulp beneath the thick, hard skin of hexagonal plates or “scales” covering the individual segments is cut away from the inedible core to eat once the thick, hard rind of hexagonal plates or “scales” covering the individual segments begins to dry out and fall away. Although there are normally no seeds, certain segments may have pale-green, firm seeds the size of big peas.
Because the plant contains oxalic acid, all portions of it are dangerous, with the exception of the mature fruits. Young fruit with the covering still intact has enough glass-like calcium oxalate crystals to irritate the throat immediately and painfully.
Split-leaf philodendron thrives in bright light in the summer and direct sunlight in the winter as a houseplant. It can be grown under fluorescent light, however when the light is insufficient, the leaf perforations will not develop. It favors a moderate indoor temperature and medium to high humidity, but once acclimated, it can tolerate a wide range of circumstances. Plants, on the other hand, do not grow below 50°F and are killed by cold.
Split-leaf philodendrons should be grown in a rich soil mix with enough of root space to encourage bigger leaf growth. They can be fast-growing and require assistance to keep the stems from breaking. For the aerial roots to connect to, bury a tree bark or a robust, moss-covered support in the container. Wrapping sphagnum moss around a wooden slat and securing it with monofilament fishing line or nylon thread will do the trick. Moisten thoroughly and leave the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, making sure to water the moss-covered support as well to ensure that the aerial roots have access to water and nutrients. If the growing media is too wet, the leaves will “sweat.” Reduce watering to avoid root rot if this occurs.
Plants that are kept dry will grow more slowly. In the winter, use less water. From spring to fall, fertilize on a regular basis. If the humidity is too low, the leaf edges will become brown. Wipe the dust from the leaves on a regular basis. Aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites may infest this plant indoors, but it is susceptible to aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites.
The root system of container-grown plants necessitates periodic repotting. They can be placed outside for the summer, but they must be progressively acclimated to greater light levels to avoid sunburn.
Any time of year, propagate from stem cuttings from established plants, or by air layering or simple layering. Pot the cutting by cutting the tip of the stem right below an aerial root. Cut the vine into 1-foot parts for extra plants, push the sections half-way into a bed of rooting material (such as a mixture of leafmold and sand), and transplant when roots have developed. Plants can be grown from seed, but seedlings need to be kept warm and grow slowly.
How long till my Monstera leaves split?
Young monsteras have solid, heart-shaped leaves that nearly look like they belong to a separate species! Your monstera should grow and create those gorgeous holes and splits on its own when it’s 2-3 years old with good light, the correct quantity of water, and a little fertilizer.
Is philodendron a Monstera?
Monsteras are a separate plant family that are grown in Mexico and Costa Rica for their fruit. Monstera deliciosa gets its name from the wonderful huge fruit it produces. Their leaves grow to be enormous, hence the moniker “monster fruit,” and variegation patterns that are practically white can be quite spectacular.
Philodendrons, which are related to pothos, are trailing vines. Philodendron is a flowering plant that comes from the Greek word philodendron “Perhaps because of its heart-shaped leaves, they’re known as the “love tree.” Their leaves are never as large as monstera leaves and grow more like a pothos.
And this is when things become a little complicated. Split-leaf philodendrons exist in two species, but their leaves aren’t quite as spectacular as the monstera deliciosa’s.
Is a Monstera a Philodendron?
No! While they’re both members of the same broader family, the philodendron is more closely linked to the pothos, the world’s most popular houseplant. Monsteras are more closely related to peace lilies than other plants.
Philodendrons are a little easier to grow and trail down like vines from their containers, making them excellent hanging plants. They’re more common, less expensive, and come in variegated kinds that are easier to grow.
Monsteras don’t make good hanging plants and require a little more light than philodendrons, at least if you want the dramatic split-leaf pattern on their leaves. In reality, a monstera that receives little light and loses its divided leaves resembles a philodendron.
Monstera vs. Split-Leaf Philodendron: Which Should I Buy?
As a plant aficionado, I vote for both! They’re pretty distinct, and every houseplant enthusiast should have both, along with their fiddle leaf figs and ferns. Place your philodendron in a hanging pot beside a pothos plant in a dark spot. It grows like a vine and thrives in practically any environment.
Maintain a brighter environment for your monstera and avoid overwatering. (For further information, see our Ultimate Monstera Watering Guide.)
Keep an eye out for leaf drop, yellowing, or the loss of the split-leaf pattern on its leaves. Give your plant additional light if you see these symptoms. (For further information, see The Ultimate Guide to Monstera Leaf Care.)
Whether you choose a monstera, philodendron, or both, make sure to follow the fundamental houseplant care guidelines, which include lots of sunlight, not too much water, and weekly maintenance.
How do you save a split leaf philodendron?
- Symptoms. The leaves on the philodendron have stopped growing, and the plant appears to be inactive or possibly dying.
- Causes. A shaded location with insufficient bright light, a lack of water, pot bound roots, a lack of fertilizer, and a lack of aeration in the soil around the roots are all contributing factors.
While philodendrons are prized for their capacity to grow inside, they require bright, indirect light, and if they are in a shaded position, their growth will be significantly slowed.
As the plant hunts for additional light, too much shade causes the leaves to shrink and the stems to become lanky. To encourage greater growth, move your philodendron to a brighter part of the house.
By sprinkling once or twice a week, you can maintain the soil moist and the air surrounding the philodendrons leaves generally humid.
Drought stress can cause philodendrons to cease growing, so water as needed to maintain the potting soil moist (but not saturated) and encourage excellent, healthy foliage growth.
If the philodendron has been in the same pot for a long period, the plant may outgrow it, causing the roots to become pot bound, depleting the soil’s nutrient supply.
To improve the condition of your philodendron, repot it in a larger container with new soil. The philodendron may be given the nutrients it needs to flourish by using an all-purpose house plant fertilizer.
When your philodendron is actively developing, only feed it in the spring and summer. Feeding philodendrons once a month is recommended for optimal development and plant health.
If the potting soil around the root ball is overly compacted, oxgyen can be removed from the soil, preventing root repiration and interfering with the philodendron’s capacity to operate effectively. The philodendron may stop growing as a result of this.
If the dirt in your philodendron’s pot is overly compacted, I recommend repotting it in 3 parts regular potting soil to 1 part perlite. Perlite improves the porous structure of the potting soil, allowing water to drain effectively and increasing aeration in the soil, allowing the plant to thrive.
Key Takeaways:
- Overwatering, underwatering, low weather, or too much sun are all causes of philodendron death. Philodendron leaves turn yellow and droop when the soil is saturated, and they turn brown when they are underwatered or exposed to the sun. A dying philodendron can be caused by temperatures below 50°F.
- Philodendrons are tropical plants that thrive in hot, humid situations. Keep yours in a room with temps ranging from 65°F to 85°F (18°C to 30°C). Once or twice a week, mist the leaves to produce a humid microclimate that mimics the philodendron’s natural surroundings.
- Water the philodendron as needed to maintain an even moisture level in the soil. Perlite can be added to the potting mix to help with drainage and moisture balance.
- To save your philodendron, place it in bright indirect light, wet but well-draining soil, warm temperatures, and regularly mist the leaves. During the active growing seasons of Spring and Summer, the plant should show indications of healing, with new growth developing.
Does a split-leaf philodendron bloom?
When ripe, it does bloom, although I’ve never seen one with 14. The inflorescence is made up of a leaf-like hood or spathe that encloses a spadix, which is a tube-like structure. When the spadix is ready to be pollinated, the temperature rises, attracting scarab beetles. Seed will form on the spadix if the insects act during the short-lived heat period. If you don’t like the way the blooms look, simply cut them off.