Monsteras are a separate plant family that are grown in Mexico and Costa Rica for their fruit. Monstera deliciosa gets its name from the wonderful huge fruit it produces. Their leaves grow to be enormous, hence the moniker “monster fruit,” and variegation patterns that are practically white can be quite spectacular.
Philodendrons, which are related to pothos, are trailing vines. Philodendron is a flowering plant that comes from the Greek word philodendron “Perhaps because of its heart-shaped leaves, they’re known as the “love tree.” Their leaves are never as large as monstera leaves and grow more like a pothos.
And this is when things become a little complicated. Split-leaf philodendrons exist in two species, but their leaves aren’t quite as spectacular as the monstera deliciosa’s.
Is a Monstera a Philodendron?
No! While they’re both members of the same broader family, the philodendron is more closely linked to the pothos, the world’s most popular houseplant. Monsteras are more closely related to peace lilies than other plants.
Philodendrons are a little easier to grow and trail down like vines from their containers, making them excellent hanging plants. They’re more common, less expensive, and come in variegated kinds that are easier to grow.
Monsteras don’t make good hanging plants and require a little more light than philodendrons, at least if you want the dramatic split-leaf pattern on their leaves. In reality, a monstera that receives little light and loses its divided leaves resembles a philodendron.
Monstera vs. Split-Leaf Philodendron: Which Should I Buy?
As a plant aficionado, I vote for both! They’re pretty distinct, and every houseplant enthusiast should have both, along with their fiddle leaf figs and ferns. Place your philodendron in a hanging pot beside a pothos plant in a dark spot. It grows like a vine and thrives in practically any environment.
Maintain a brighter environment for your monstera and avoid overwatering. (For further information, see our Ultimate Monstera Watering Guide.)
Keep an eye out for leaf drop, yellowing, or the loss of the split-leaf pattern on its leaves. Give your plant additional light if you see these symptoms. (For further information, see The Ultimate Guide to Monstera Leaf Care.)
Whether you choose a monstera, philodendron, or both, make sure to follow the fundamental houseplant care guidelines, which include lots of sunlight, not too much water, and weekly maintenance.
Is split leaf philodendron same as Monstera?
Split-leaf philodendron refers to two distinct philodendron species: Philodendron bipinnatifidum and Philodendron selloum. These plants are not the same as monstera, yet they share the same name in some circumstances. Monstera deliciosa is the name of the plant.
How can you tell if a Monstera is a philodendron?
Because there are so many diverse species, it’s only natural that some of them may exhibit characteristics that are more frequently associated with Monsteras.
- Split-leaf philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum): this plant is frequently sold under the name Monstera deliciosa, and it’s easy to confuse the two. The shape and size of the leaves are what distinguishes the two. The leaves of the philodendron are narrower and divided rather than fenestrated. Monstera leaves are spherical and heart-shaped, and they have a feather-like appearance.
- Philodendron minimum is a difficult plant to grow. It has oval-shaped, split leaves that resemble those of a Monstera, and as a result, it’s sometimes referred to as a’mini monstera’ in the plant trade. It’s not a Philodendron with holes or a Monstera, though. Rhaphidophora tetrasperma belongs to the Rhaphidophora genus and is an entirely different species.
Is Monstera and Philodendron same?
While both Monstera and Philodendron are members of the Araceae family, they belong to different genera, making them two distinct plants. Monsteras and Philodendrons cannot cross-pollinate to create new plant hybrids because of this.
Split-leaf Philodendron and Monstera have a few physical differences as well. The most notable difference is that Monsteras have fenestrated leaves, whilst split-leaf Philodendrons do not. The holes in adult Monstera leaves are known as fenestrations, and while split-leaf Philodendrons have split-leaves, they lack fenestrations.
True split-leaf Philodendrons do not climb, despite the fact that many Philodendrons do. Monsteras are notable for their enormous aerial roots that cling to trees. Monsteras bear fruit, whereas Philodendrons don’t. A minor distinction is that fresh Philodendron leaves are usually protected by a sheath known as a cataphyll.
Split-leaf tea is a true split-leaf tea. The leaf texture of a Philodendron differs significantly from that of a Monstera. Monsteras have a smoother, flatter appearance, but Thaumatophyllum Bipinnatifidum has a ruffled appearance.
What is it called when monstera leaves split?
The holes in some plant leaves give them an unique (and much desired) appearance. Plants like monstera and pothos have leaves that are deeply split and have holes and slits in the interior. Perforate leaves, also known as fenestrate leaves, have holes in them. The word fenestration derives from the Latin word fenestratus, which means “to break apart.” “openings are provided.” Fenestrate is a botanical term that means “to open up.” “having perforations or transparent patches of a small size.” As though they were little windows!
There are various explanations for why some plants develop in this manner. One benefit is that it allows air to move freely through the leaves, which can help in heavy winds. Another hypothesis is that the pores aid in the cooling of the plant. Alternatively, improved light capture. Or that the perforations help the plant blend in with its surroundings, shielding it from grazing animals. Plant connoisseurs all over the world covet fenestrated plants, regardless of why they do so.
You can aid fenestration in plants that develop holes on their own. Monstera leaves, for example, get holey as they age and grow larger. Monstera deliciosa (also known as split-leaf philodendron) grows to a width of at least 3 feet before producing leaves with holes. The ‘Cebu Blue’ pothos will only fenestrate if it climbs; it will also take some time for the leaf splits to occur. Try Monstera adansonii, which is bushier than Monstera deliciosa and develops smaller leaves with holes in younger plants if you’re impatient for your monstera to create holes.
Highly lobed plants may appear to have leaf holes, but closer examination reveals that the leaves have so deeply scalloped edges that they just appear to be holes. Monsteras are known for its lobed leaves. Philodendrons with deeply lobed leaves include Philodendron bipinnatifidum (aka Selloum) and Philodendron ‘Xanadu.’
What does a split-leaf philodendron look like?
Split-leaf philodendron (Monstera deliciosa), often known as Swiss cheese plant or windowleaf, is a tropical plant native to Central American rainforests from southern Mexico to Panama. It is commonly planted as a foliage houseplant. In 1752, England became the first country to cultivate it. It’s the only decorative aroid with edible fruit. Despite its common name, it is not a member of the genus Philodendron (although it was previously classed as such), although it does belong to the same family (Araceae). It has leathery leaves that are glossy, heart-shaped, or rounded, with deep clefts and oblong perforations as they age. On foot-long leafstalks, the leaves can be up to 18″ broad. Variegated foliage is found in the cultivars ‘Variegata’ and ‘Albovariegata,’ and the leaves are smaller than the species.
This plant is an evergreen liana, a trailing or ascending epiphytic vine that climbs high into the rainforest canopy in nature. It can reach a height of 70 feet or more and only seldom branches. The leaf scars are rough on the hefty, cylindrical 21/2-3″ stems.
As it climbs upward, it creates multiple long tentacle-like aerial roots that cling to adjacent branches and tree trunks. The strong roots grow downward from the thick stem, and if they come into contact with the earth, they will root.
The young plants have a distinct appearance. Seedlings grow upwards until they come across a tree, at which point they grow into the darkest part. In a stage known as “shingle plants,” the leaves are small and lack lobes or holes, and they grow closely overlapping each other up the tree trunk. As they become older, they start to create the mature plant’s leaf. The fenestrations (holes in the leaves) are supposed to allow powerful winds can pass through without destroying the huge leaves.
The flowers are an 8-12″ long, creamy-white Jack-in-the-pulpit kind, which is rarely found on houseplants. The boat-shaped spathe surrounds the fleshy upright spike (spadix) with small flowers. The fruit matures in a little over a year, growing into a 9″ cone-like structure that resembles a green cob of corn with hexagonal kernels. The edible fruits, known as cerimans or monsteras, are heavy in potassium and Vitamin C and are said to taste like a mix of banana, pineapple, and mango. They’re used to flavor cocktails and ice cream, or they’re eaten straight from the tree. From the bottom up, the fruit ripens. The off-white, custard-like pulp beneath the thick, hard skin of hexagonal plates or “scales” covering the individual segments is cut away from the inedible core to eat once the thick, hard rind of hexagonal plates or “scales” covering the individual segments begins to dry out and fall away. Although there are normally no seeds, certain segments may have pale-green, firm seeds the size of big peas.
Because the plant contains oxalic acid, all portions of it are dangerous, with the exception of the mature fruits. Young fruit with the covering still intact has enough glass-like calcium oxalate crystals to irritate the throat immediately and painfully.
Split-leaf philodendron thrives in bright light in the summer and direct sunlight in the winter as a houseplant. It can be grown under fluorescent light, however when the light is insufficient, the leaf perforations will not develop. It favors a moderate indoor temperature and medium to high humidity, but once acclimated, it can tolerate a wide range of circumstances. Plants, on the other hand, do not grow below 50°F and are killed by cold.
Split-leaf philodendrons should be grown in a rich soil mix with enough of root space to encourage bigger leaf growth. They can be fast-growing and require assistance to keep the stems from breaking. For the aerial roots to connect to, bury a tree bark or a robust, moss-covered support in the container. Wrapping sphagnum moss around a wooden slat and securing it with monofilament fishing line or nylon thread will do the trick. Moisten thoroughly and leave the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, making sure to water the moss-covered support as well to ensure that the aerial roots have access to water and nutrients. If the growing media is too wet, the leaves will “sweat.” Reduce watering to avoid root rot if this occurs.
Plants that are kept dry will grow more slowly. In the winter, use less water. From spring to fall, fertilize on a regular basis. If the humidity is too low, the leaf edges will become brown. Wipe the dust from the leaves on a regular basis. Aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites may infest this plant indoors, but it is susceptible to aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites.
The root system of container-grown plants necessitates periodic repotting. They can be placed outside for the summer, but they must be progressively acclimated to greater light levels to avoid sunburn.
Any time of year, propagate from stem cuttings from established plants, or by air layering or simple layering. Pot the cutting by cutting the tip of the stem right below an aerial root. Cut the vine into 1-foot parts for extra plants, push the sections half-way into a bed of rooting material (such as a mixture of leafmold and sand), and transplant when roots have developed. Plants can be grown from seed, but seedlings need to be kept warm and grow slowly.
Can you split philodendron?
When is the best time to split your plant? Late winter or early spring is the greatest time to divide a split-leaf philodendron, or any other monstera plant, so the roots have the best opportunity of recovering from the stress.
Are split leaf philodendrons vines?
You can choose between a hanging (vining) Philodendron and an upright Philodendron type, depending on your interior décor.
Heart-shaped leaves and lengthy trailing tendrils characterize most climbing or hanging Philodendrons. The lovely long stems of the vining plants can be hung in a basket from the ceiling or placed on a high shelf to make a stunning vertical accent. The variegated Philodendron ‘Brasil,’ ‘pink princess,’ and the green heartleaf Philodendron are all vining plants of the Philodendron family.
Philodendron plants with upright growth feature huge, divided leaves. Green leaves can grow to be so large that they require some support. The upright Philodendrons grow slowly in comparison to climbing Philodendrons. The Xanadu and the Green Congo Philodendron are two types of upright Philodendrons.
What makes a plant a philodendron?
The leaves are often big and imposing, lobed or deeply cut, and pinnate in nature. They can also be oval, spear-shaped, or any other shape you can think of. On the stem, the leaves are borne alternately. Philodendrons are unique in that they do not have a single leaf kind on the same plant. Instead, they have juvenile and adult leaves that might be quite distinct from one another. Early in the plant’s life, seedling philodendron leaves are frequently heart-shaped. However, once it has grown through the seedling stage, the leaves will take on the shape and size of a typical juvenile leaf. The philodendron begins to produce adult leaves later in life, a process known as metamorphosis. The majority of philodendrons go through a slow transformation, with no obvious differences between juvenile and adult leaves. Adult leaves can have a drastically different shape than juvenile leaves, in addition to being much larger. In fact, these distinctions have caused great taxonomic difficulty in the past, resulting in juvenile and adult plants being classified as different species.
The onset of the transition to adult leaves might occur at any time. The plant’s height is one possible trigger. Secondary hemiepiphytes begin their journey up a tree on the dark forest floor, revealing their juvenile type leaves along the way. They begin to generate adult type leaves once they reach a certain height. The smaller juvenile leaves are employed on the darker forest floor where light is sparse, but if they reach a suitable height in the canopy, the light is bright enough for the larger adult leaves to be beneficial. Primary hemiepiphytes are another probable trigger. The aerial roots of these philodendrons usually point downward. When their roots reach the ground below, the plant will begin to absorb nutrients from the soil that it had previously been deficient in. As a result, the plant will quickly mature into adult leaves and grow significantly in size. Another feature of philodendron leaves is that they can vary significantly in form and size, even amongst plants of the same species. Because of all of these diverse leaf shapes, it can be difficult to tell the difference between natural variability and morphogenesis.
How do you identify a philodendron?
Philodendron foliage is normally green, but it can also be coppery, crimson, or purplish; parallel leaf veins are usually green, but they can also be red or white. The shape, size, and texture of the leaves vary greatly depending on the plant’s species and maturity. The berry is white to orange in color. The differences between the juvenile and adult phases make it nearly hard to distinguish between distinct kinds of tiny plants.
Are all monstera climbers?
Monstera vines are epiphytic vines, meaning they climb rather than trailer. Monstera should be planted in a container with a moss-filled pole, a piece of wood, or another type of trellis to climb with their stems, which can grow up to six feet or longer, rather than a hanging basket.