When Monstera deliciosa is young, it grows vertically on only a few stems, but as it grows older and heavier, it begins to grow horizontally. New plant owners may be astonished to see that their once-vertical house plant begins to extend outward, taking up more and more horizontal space.
Using a support like a moss pole, coco coir pole, trellis, or stakes is one of the best ways to train your Monstera to grow upward. However, Monsteras can adapt to climbing on a variety of supports, so you have alternative possibilities.
How do you support a split-leaf philodendron?
Split-leaf philodendron (Monstera deliciosa), often known as Swiss cheese plant or windowleaf, is a tropical plant native to Central American rainforests from southern Mexico to Panama. It is commonly planted as a foliage houseplant. In 1752, England became the first country to cultivate it. It’s the only decorative aroid with edible fruit. Despite its common name, it is not a member of the genus Philodendron (although it was previously classed as such), although it does belong to the same family (Araceae). It has leathery leaves that are glossy, heart-shaped, or rounded, with deep clefts and oblong perforations as they age. On foot-long leafstalks, the leaves can be up to 18″ broad. Variegated foliage is found in the cultivars ‘Variegata’ and ‘Albovariegata,’ and the leaves are smaller than the species.
This plant is an evergreen liana, a trailing or ascending epiphytic vine that climbs high into the rainforest canopy in nature. It can reach a height of 70 feet or more and only seldom branches. The leaf scars are rough on the hefty, cylindrical 21/2-3″ stems.
As it climbs upward, it creates multiple long tentacle-like aerial roots that cling to adjacent branches and tree trunks. The strong roots grow downward from the thick stem, and if they come into contact with the earth, they will root.
The young plants have a distinct appearance. Seedlings grow upwards until they come across a tree, at which point they grow into the darkest part. In a stage known as “shingle plants,” the leaves are small and lack lobes or holes, and they grow closely overlapping each other up the tree trunk. As they become older, they start to create the mature plant’s leaf. The fenestrations (holes in the leaves) are supposed to allow powerful winds can pass through without destroying the huge leaves.
The flowers are an 8-12″ long, creamy-white Jack-in-the-pulpit kind, which is rarely found on houseplants. The boat-shaped spathe surrounds the fleshy upright spike (spadix) with small flowers. The fruit matures in a little over a year, growing into a 9″ cone-like structure that resembles a green cob of corn with hexagonal kernels. The edible fruits, known as cerimans or monsteras, are heavy in potassium and Vitamin C and are said to taste like a mix of banana, pineapple, and mango. They’re used to flavor cocktails and ice cream, or they’re eaten straight from the tree. From the bottom up, the fruit ripens. The off-white, custard-like pulp beneath the thick, hard skin of hexagonal plates or “scales” covering the individual segments is cut away from the inedible core to eat once the thick, hard rind of hexagonal plates or “scales” covering the individual segments begins to dry out and fall away. Although there are normally no seeds, certain segments may have pale-green, firm seeds the size of big peas.
Because the plant contains oxalic acid, all portions of it are dangerous, with the exception of the mature fruits. Young fruit with the covering still intact has enough glass-like calcium oxalate crystals to irritate the throat immediately and painfully.
Split-leaf philodendron thrives in bright light in the summer and direct sunlight in the winter as a houseplant. It can be grown under fluorescent light, however when the light is insufficient, the leaf perforations will not develop. It favors a moderate indoor temperature and medium to high humidity, but once acclimated, it can tolerate a wide range of circumstances. Plants, on the other hand, do not grow below 50°F and are killed by cold.
Split-leaf philodendrons should be grown in a rich soil mix with enough of root space to encourage bigger leaf growth. They can be fast-growing and require assistance to keep the stems from breaking. For the aerial roots to connect to, bury a tree bark or a robust, moss-covered support in the container. Wrapping sphagnum moss around a wooden slat and securing it with monofilament fishing line or nylon thread will do the trick. Moisten thoroughly and leave the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, making sure to water the moss-covered support as well to ensure that the aerial roots have access to water and nutrients. If the growing media is too wet, the leaves will “sweat.” Reduce watering to avoid root rot if this occurs.
Plants that are kept dry will grow more slowly. In the winter, use less water. From spring to fall, fertilize on a regular basis. If the humidity is too low, the leaf edges will become brown. Wipe the dust off the leaves on a regular basis. Aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites may infest this plant indoors, but it is susceptible to aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites.
The root system of container-grown plants necessitates periodic repotting. They can be placed outside for the summer, but they must be progressively acclimated to greater light levels to avoid sunburn.
Any time of year, propagate from stem cuttings from established plants, or by air layering or simple layering. Pot the cutting by cutting the tip of the stem right below an aerial root. Cut the vine into 1-foot parts for extra plants, push the sections half-way into a bed of rooting material (such as a mixture of leafmold and sand), and transplant when roots have developed. Plants can be grown from seed, but seedlings need to be kept warm and grow slowly.
Should I stake my split-leaf philodendron?
There are several advantages to using a stake or moss poll to support the posture of your Monstera. Monsteras are epiphytes in their natural habitats, which means they grow vertically in nature by climbing on the other plants around them. They get by with a little aid from their friends, that’s right!
When your Monstera is potted at home, accommodating this epiphytic habit can be more difficult, but stakes are the perfect “dupe” for other foliage. Your Monstera will cling to its stake, stretch upward, and maintain its heaviest stems straight, giving it a beautiful posture that will keep it looking its best. Aerial roots grow on Monsteraslove them, don’t cut them! They’re there to support your Monstera’s heavy base, but staking the plant relieves some of the strain on those roots, allowing you to bury them beneath the dirt and hide them.
Find The Perfect Stake, Moss Poll, Or Coir Pole
Bamboo stakes and coir or moss poles are the two most common types of garden stakes for houseplants. Bamboo stakes are inexpensive, appealing, and simple to use. They have small dimensions and a wide range of applications. Poles made of coir (coconut fiber) are substantially thicker and have wooden bases coated in coconut husk. Because the coconut husk is so absorbent, you can water right onto the pole and your plant will get plenty of moisture. Moss poles, which are similar to coir poles but are often covered in sphagnum moss, are another popular option.
Insert The Stake Into The Soil
Find the sections of your Monstera’s base (bottom) that have the thickest, heaviest stems and require the most support. After you’ve identified these spots, dig small holes with a trowel into which you’ll place the stakes. Make sure the stake is firmly planted in the ground, far enough down to avoid wiggling or sagging. For further support, drive the stake all the way down to the bottom of your Monstera’s pot.
Utilize Support Ties
Staking plants does not necessitate the use of specific support ties. Plant tie tape, twine, or fabric strips can all be used. Just make sure you don’t connect the stems of your Monstera to the stakes too firmly so they don’t get damaged. They should be anchored firmly but not strangled.
Start tying your support ties about 1-2 inches above the place where the base of your plant meets the earth. It will be easier for your plant to stretch upward as it grows if it has more support at the bottom. Repeat the ties at several-inch intervals (about every three to eight inches, depending on the size of your Monstera).
And That’s That!
You’ll notice an improvement in the overall form and health of your Monstera now that it’s been staked, and its epiphytic nature will have more room to grow. Check out our entire care instructions to keep your plant shining over time, add additional support ties or stakes when necessary, and the future will be bright for you and your Monstera!
How do you train a philodendron?
Your dog learned to walk on a leash, your cat learned to use a litterbox, and your parrot learned to curse like a sailor. Are you looking for a new challenge? Your houseplants should be trained.
Wire hoops, topiary forms, and trellises can all be purchased ready-made. Bamboo stakes can also be used to create a trellis. Take a walk over to your nearest tree and grab some twigs for a rustic effect. Tie them together with jute or use adhesive to make a trellis. Wind the stems around the support after potting the plant. To keep the stems in place, use plant ties (or twist ties if you don’t have time to go to the plant store).
Pothos and philodendrons, which have aerial roots, should be trained up a moss pole. Many varieties of philodendrons produce larger leaves when trained on a moss pole than when grown in a normal pot, in addition to adding visual interest. You can either buy ready-made moss poles or create your own. Roll wire mesh into a tube and bind it with plant ties to form a moss pole. Cut a couple of bamboo stakes to the diameter of the pot and pierce them in an X through the netting. In the pot, wedge the pole upright. Fill the pot halfway with dirt, then stuff the pole with sphagnum moss. Wires twisted into a hairpin shape are used to attach the vines to the moss pole. (Is there no wire? Paperclips are a good option.) Roots will develop into the pole if it is misted daily.
Climbing plants can be trained to climb up a wall, over a mantel, or around a window. String between nails on the wall, then use plant ties to secure plant stems.
Do split leaf philodendrons climb?
M. The beautiful heart-shaped foliage of deliciosa, as well as its easy-to-grow, vigorous character, making it a remarkable focal point. It’s a fast-growing climbing plant that can reach 10 to 15 feet tall and 8 feet wide in optimal indoor conditions.
Split-leaf philodendron climbs up into the rain-forest canopy in its native environment of Central America’s rainforests, reaching heights of up to 70 feet. It uses long tentacle-like aerial roots to attach itself to the trunks and branches of other trees.
Despite the fact that it rarely bears fruit inside, M. deliciosa produces a cone-shaped fruit that is actually an unripened flower spike, living up to its name. The fruit takes about a year to mature, and its flavor is characterized as a mix of banana, pineapple, and mango. Only consume it when it’s ripe; unripe fruit irritates the mouth and throat.
Keep the following recommendations in mind if you want to grow a split-leaf philodendron.
How big do split leaf philodendrons grow indoors?
Split leaf philodendrons can be cultivated as a tiny houseplant or as a tall plant that grows up to six feet tall. Because they are normally pruned and repotted once a year, it’s not uncommon for them to change shape over time.
Is the split leaf the same as Monstera?
No, the Monstera is not the same as the split leaf philodendron. People frequently mix them up because the split leaf philodendron is commonly referred to as “split-leaf” or “philodendron,” while Monstera are frequently labeled as Philodendrons.
To thrive, they require bright, indirect light. It is receiving enough light if it is receiving lots of light and is not being burned.
Do split leaf philodendrons like to be root bound?
No, split leaf philodendrons despise being rooted. Repotting will be required at some point because they require space for their root system to flourish.
Because the leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals, the split leaf philodendron is poisonous to people and pets. This plant should not be kept near little children or dogs since they may become ill if they eat the leaves.
How do you care for a split-leaf philodendron indoors?
3 Tips for Caring for Split-Leaf Philodendrons
- Make sure your plant gets enough light. Split-leaf philodendrons thrive in bright indirect light, so any room with a south or east-facing window is ideal for them.
Should I tie up my philodendron?
Staking outside garden plants for support is a popular practice, but staking many indoor houseplants is also a smart idea. This group includes many of the most beautiful philodendron species, as well as ivy, jasmine, and tropical plants like monstera.
What can I use instead of a moss pole?
Moss poles are simple structures that can be difficult to get to at times. Looking for an alternative can be a reasonable option because they are often highly cost-effective and fulfill the same function as a moss-only pole.
Moss poles aren’t usually constructed of moss; there are plenty of other options. A moss pole can be replaced with a genuine bamboo or a tree slab. Alternatives include coir poles, wooden sticks, PVC pipes, and modern metal trellis from Pinterest.
These poles are used to help plants grow taller by providing support. Plants like monsteras, pothos, and vines, for example, require moss poles to stay upright and retain their structure.
Are you looking for alternatives to moss poles? Do you want to pick one that’s right for you? This post will show you a variety of low-cost moss pole options as well as how to create your own.
How do I encourage my philodendron to climb?
Climbing philodendrons require a different type of trellis than most houseplants since they have aerial roots. Give your plant a rough, preferably wet support to which those roots can adhere themselves instead of stakes or latticework. Most sources suggest moss-stuffed or moss-covered poles, also known as totems, which you may buy or build yourself. Slabs of bark or tree fern, similar to the tree trunks on which the plants scramble in the wild, might also be used as supports.