The optimum time to divide or propagate your monstera is in the early spring because that is when it grows. They’ll have a better chance of overcoming root stress and resuming growth.
Water before you split
Before splitting the root ball, it should be well-hydrated. Give the roots a good soak a week before you carry out the deed so that water begins to flow out of the bottom of the pot. (Your pot has effective drainage, correct?)
Make the split
Carefully tip the pot on its side and slip the plant out when you’re ready to split your monstera. To avoid breaking anything, you might need assistance holding the plant or pot.
Use a garden shovel to gently encourage the plant out if it won’t come up on its own. Do not pull the plant out of the pot under any circumstances! There is no way you want to break any stems or leaves since they won’t grow back.
Once the monstera has been removed from the pot, divide the root ball into two or more plants using a sharp, clean knife. To ensure that each new plant has lots of roots and stems, look for natural sections and divisions in the existing plant.
This is something you kind of have to eyeball and look for any locations where the plant has already divided up. This will guarantee that the plant will rapidly begin growing after the split has healed.
Plant the new monsteras
It’s time to move the individual plants into their new pots after you’ve divided your monstera into two or more plants.
Perhaps you need containers that are smaller than the one the large plant was in. Select containers with sufficient drainage that are 2-4 inches wider than the new plants’ roots. Plant in a soil with peat, such as our specialty monstera soil, that drains well.
When the plants are in their new pots, give them some water, and position them somewhere with bright, indirect light.
To promote recuperation and new development, you can begin fertilizing the plants around a month after you separate them!
Option 1: Wait
Depending on how young and little your monstera plant is, you might just need to give it some time.
Young monsteras almost resemble a distinct plant because of their sturdy, heart-shaped leaves. Your monstera should grow and finally form those lovely holes and splits on its own when it is between two and three years old with adequate light, the proper quantity of water, and a little fertilizer. Be tolerant!
Option 2: More light!
This is typically the most crucial thing you can do to encourage your monstera leaves to split. However, without plenty of bright, indirect sunlight, monsteras won’t grow much or produce many splits (or numerous rows of splits), even though they can survive in reduced light. Your monstera leaves might not split even if you follow all other instructions to the letter without the proper light.
If you buy a mature monstera with split leaves, lower light may work, especially if you don’t want it to grow much bigger and take over your house (since monsteras often do!).
However, you’ll need good lighting if you have a young plant that you want to observe develop and flourish. The best windows are those that face east or south, while north can still be used. Just be extremely careful around windows that face west since they often receive a lot of direct, scorching afternoon light that might burn the leaves.
Don’t worry if your home lacks excellent illumination. A grow light can always be used as a supplement. To replace greenhouse-style lights that you may get from nurseries, you can either purchase ready-made grow lights or install grow bulbs in standard light fixtures.
How do you induce leaf splitting in Monstera?
Light. In addition to being essential for the plant’s health, indirect or filtered bright light is also necessary for it to develop split leaves. Without enough light, the Monstera may not grow well and the leaves won’t form the desired splits.
Why isn’t my philodendron with split leaves splitting?
Age and sufficient light are the two main causes of the fenestrations that some members of the monstera genus develop.
Age
As a monstera matures, its leaves become fenestrated, and no amount of wishful thinking will cause the plant’s leaves to split before it is ready. Monsteras are born with small, sturdy, heart-shaped leaves that gradually get larger as the plant matures. Once a monstera has grown to a width and height of at least 3 feet, it typically starts to develop the distinctive deep cuts. As a juvenile monstera develops fenestrations, you’ll also observe that it happens gradually and that each leaf’s number of splits grows with time. Therefore, patience is essential if you recently bought a little monstera and are waiting for your first split-leaf. Maybe the plant needs more time.
Light
If your monstera has been growing without producing split leaves for a while, it might not be getting enough light. As they mature, monsteras require a steady supply of strong, indirect light in order to develop split leaves. In order to save energy, a monstera grown in low light settings will not develop fenestrations and will instead push out tiny leaves. Consider using a grow light if there isn’t enough natural light for your plant.
Where should I cut Monstera to spread it?
, you should separate each leaf and node on either side of the node/aerial root into independent segments.
The youngest leaf has a node that was still propagation-viable despite not having fully matured (you can kind of see it bumping through).
After you have separated your cuttings, you should remove any outdated sheathing from the leaf stems. When submerged in water for an extended period of time, they can decay and hinder the propagation process.
Your cuttings are now ready to go to their temporary residence. All you need is water and a vessel—I like clear ones.
It’s best to let the cuts to “heal” or dry up a little bit before immersing the cuttings in water. This only takes a little while.
The aerial root can be cut back, but I prefer to leave mine uncut. To make it sit comfortably at the bottom of my vessel, I simply delicately wrap it up.
The remaining stems are then arranged in the vessel, each one being spaced apart to allow for proper root development as well as aesthetic appeal once they are planted in soil. Due to their new root system, there isn’t much room to try to arrange them at that time.
Simply add water to completely cover the roots and ends once they are positioned how you like.
Place it somewhere bright, but not in the sun, and replace the water every three to five days. After roughly 2-3 weeks, roots should start to form!
In addition to new roots, it has also sprouted a huge number of new leaves.
Here is a picture of my very first effort at growing a monstera. I took the above steps, potted the cuttings in soil after around three months, and continued. It has thrived ever since I started watering it once a week!
Your inquiries are addressed:
Yes! Once they are in the proper light and receiving the appropriate amount of water, they are excellent for beginners and very simple to care for.
I plant them in a well-draining pot using ordinary Miracle Grow indoor potting soil. No need for moss or pearls.
Yes, to answer simply. That is a factor in the propagation process. I wouldn’t recommend making excessive or frequent cuts because you run the danger of harming the plant by putting it into shock.
It’s usually time for a new and larger pot when you can see the roots through the dirt or when you notice the growth has significantly halted.
All of my plants receive fertilizer during the growth season (April to September). I will fertilize every other week because I water them all once a week. I prefer liquid fertilizers (plant food) since I can regulate the amount that each plant receives.
In the summer, grocery stores like Kroger or your neighborhood Lowe’s or Home Depot may stock them. It’s always a good idea to check for nearby and online nurseries, such as
Is Monstera deliciosa the same as philodendron Monstera?
Actually belonging to a distinct plant family, monsteras are cultivated for their fruit in Mexico and Costa Rica. The enormous, tasty fruit that they produce gives the plant its name, Monstera deliciosa. Their leaves grow enormously, so the term “monster fruit, and can be rather spectacular, with almost-white variegation patterns.
The same family as pothos includes trailing vines called philodendrons. Actually, philodendron’s translation is “love tree, possibly due to their leaves’ heart-shaped design. Their leaves develop much more like a pothos and never become as large as monstera leaves.
And this is when it becomes complicated. There are two actual split-leaf philodendron species, however they don’t have as as striking of leaves as the monstera deliciosa.
Is a Monstera a Philodendron?
No! A philodendron is more closely linked to the pothos, the most popular houseplant in the world, even though they both belong to the same broader family. The peace lily and monsteras are more linked to one another.
Philodendrons make excellent hanging plants since they are somewhat simpler to grow and trail down from their containers like vines. Variegated types of them are easier to grow, more widely available, and less expensive.
Monsteras don’t grow well as hanging plants and require a little more light than philodendrons, at least if you want the dramatic split-leaf pattern on their leaves. In fact, a monstera that lacks adequate light and loses its divided leaves resembles a philodendron quite a bit.
Monstera vs. Split-Leaf Philodendron: Which Should I Buy?
I’m a huge fan of indoor plants, so both! Each houseplant enthusiast should have both in their collection, along with your fiddle leaf fig and ferns, as they are actually quite different. Put your philodendron in a hanging container next to a pothos in a dimly lit area. It will flourish in practically any situation and slowly enlarge like a vine.
Place your monstera in more light and watch out for over-watering. (Read our comprehensive guide to watering monsteras here.)
Watch out for signs of leaf drop, yellowing, or losing the split-leaf pattern on its leaves. Give your plant additional light if you notice these issues. (Click here to view the Monstera Leaf Care Ultimate Guide.)
No matter which houseplant you decide to buy—a monstera, a philodendron, or both—make sure to give it enough of sunlight, not too much water, and weekly attention.
Allow Bright, Indirect Sunlight Exposure
Among all the elements that support fenestration on a monstera, light is at the top of the list.
The majority of Monstera plants I’ve come across that don’t fenestrate are frequently planted in a dimly lit, shaded section of the home.
Where should a philodendron be clipped so it can grow?
Taking cuttings and allowing them to root is the simplest method of philodendron plant propagation. Find a node on the vine and do this there. This typically occurs close to a leaf, where aerial roots may even be beginning to form. Use clean clippers to make a 45 degree angle cut immediately above the node.
Your cutting may be excessively lengthy if you are taking from a leggy plant. Cuttings with 2 to 3 leaves and a length of about 5 inches (13 cm) are ideal for philodendron propagation. Make sure to once more clip your vine just above the node as you trim it to the proper length. Once you have removed any leaves towards the bottom, your philodendron cutting is ready to be rooted.