However, I advise using our premium well-draining potting soil instead of regular indoor potting soil.
With potting mix, fill the pot about 1/41/3 of the way. At this point, if you’re adding a new moss pole, you can bury it in the ground.
Step 4: Remove the monstera from its old pot (you might need help).
Turn the pot over and gently pry the monstera plant out of it to remove it from the container. Try shaking the pot a little bit if it still won’t budge, but don’t tug on the plant. Whatever you do, avoid trying to remove it from the pot immediately! That is an effective approach to break leaves, stems, and roots.
You might wish to enlist the aid of a friend (or perhaps two) if your monstera is particularly enormous. The best method for handling huge plants is to have one person hold the pot while the other supports the roots as they emerge. The top of the plant can be supported during the procedure by a third person if necessary.
Hold onto the moss pole while you unpot your monstera if it has one and it is securely attached.
Step 5: Put the plant in the new pot.
Place the plant in a circle around any newly added stakes. If the roots are too dense for this, carefully dig a hole that is wide enough and deep enough to fit the pole. If required, use twist ties to secure your plant to the stake.
If you’re moving a monstera that still has its original moss pole, insert the roots and pole into the pot with care. Holding the plant over the new pot, staking the pole securely into the container, and then carefully lowering the roots all work well occasionally.
More potting soil should be added to the spaces around the roots. It should be quite filled, but not overly so. Leave about 2 inches of space at the top before adding another layer of potting soil.
Step 6: Water well.
Fill the drainage holes with filtered water as you go. Add more potting soil if necessary as the dirt may sink a little.
Your monstera should acclimate to its new container fast, but a little droopiness is expected. Simply relocate it to the same location with plenty of direct and indirect sunshine and postpone fertilizing for about 4 weeks.
How can I determine when to repot my Monstera?
You might be asking what you should do to maintain the health of your Monstera deliciosa if you’ve had it for a long. The solution (in part) is to periodically repot it into a bigger container to give it the space it needs to grow. Long-term storage of monsteras in small containers prevents them from ever reaching their “monster potential.”
Every two years, a Monstera deliciosa should be replanted, ideally in the spring as it starts to grow. Overgrown roots, a lack of new growth, and poor water retention are indications that a Monstera needs to be transplanted sooner rather than later.
This article will discuss some of these signals’ meanings and physical characteristics. It will be simpler to determine when a plant is prepared to go up to the next size of planter once you are aware of how a Monstera responds to being left in a pot that is too tiny.
Should I repot the Monstera I recently purchased?
The tropical philodendron is a traditional indoor plant. This gorgeous plant, also known as the Swiss cheese plant, has huge leaves that are simple to cultivate and distinctive splits in the leaves. It needs to be replanted every few years to provide enough soil nourishment and room for the plant’s rapid growth. For a long-living, robust specimen that adorns your home or workplace, learn how to repot a Swiss cheese plant, including the proper soil, space, and staking.
In most home interiors, tropical Monstera plants (Monstera deliciosa) flourish. The plants are thick-stemmed vines that support themselves on nearby plants in the environment and send out long roots to help with additional support. Monstera houseplants still generate robust roots from the trunk even if they may need staking. Repotting cheese plants might be difficult as a result.
Does Philodendron Monstera enjoy being confined by its roots?
One of my favorite houseplants is gradually turning out to be my Monstera Adansonii. The Swiss Cheese Plant, as it is also known, spreads out swiftly and enjoys doing so. But is it a plant that enjoys being root-bound? When and how often should it be replanted in a larger pot, if at all?
Do Monstera Adansonii enjoy being rooted in one place? The Monstera Adansonii doesn’t enjoy being root-bound, therefore no. This plant won’t reach its full potential if it can’t obtain the nutrients and water it needs into the soil. Repotting should be done once a year for young plants and every two years for older ones as they get older.
Stressed plants are those that are rooted. They must use their meager energy reserves to concentrate on staying alive rather than producing new growth. Read on if you’re unsure of what to do with your root-bound plant or even how to check for one! I’ll outline all you need to know, including how to proceed.
Do monstera plants prefer little pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!
Which types of soil are best for Monsteras?
Use peat moss-rich, high-quality potting soil that drains well when you plant your Monstera in a container with drainage holes. The plants flourish best in dense, nutrient-rich soil; however, they struggle in potting soils that contain compost or bark. Make a few in the bottom of your container if it doesn’t already have any drainage holes. Standing water might cause the roots to decay.
How much light is required by a Monstera plant? Give your Monstera filtered, inconspicuous light rather than direct sunshine, which can burn the leaves. The plant is typically receiving too much sun if the leaves turn yellow.
Use a sheer drape to help filter the light and keep your plant out of the hot, direct sun if you keep it close to a southern or western exposure. Although they won’t produce as many eye-catching leaf perforations as usual and may stretch in the direction of the light source, monsteras can adapt to low light settings.
Rotate the plant once a week for optimal results to ensure even growth. Without it, it might tilt toward the light and become top heavy.
Do plants experience shock when being replanted?
While most container plants occasionally require repotting to make room for their growing roots, transplanting might stress the plant. Because it occurs frequently enough, transplant shock has a name. A huge plant may suffer from transplant shock, but it is not always fatal.
Watering Problem
In terms of water, monsteras can be picky. They dislike drying out because they are native to the rainforest. However, if they are exposed to too much water for too long, they might develop root rot.
It is crucial to examine your Swiss Cheese plant to determine the cause of your Monstera’s yellowing, as one of these could be the issue.
Overwatering
Checking the soil for excess moisture should be your first step if you find your Monstera’s leaves turning yellow. Simply dig your finger into the soil.
- Is the ground damp?
- Does it seem damp?
- Does it have a rotting or rather stinky odor?
If so, you should completely repot your Swiss cheese plant since it is probably suffering from root rot brought on by overwatering. For more thorough instructions, please see our tutorial here.
A Monstera that is overwatered will sag, get brown blotches on its leaves, and have yellowing of the foliage as a result. Its soil may grow a fungus on top and take a very long time to dry off.
Keep in mind that soil that retains water and excessive watering frequency, not the amount of water applied all at once, are what cause overwatering.
When watering your Monstera, make sure the soil is not already excessively wet first, and then water it until water begins to drain from the bottom drainage hole.
Before doing any care or maintenance on your Monstera, especially before you water it because it could make the problem worse, it is important to check for root rot because it can swiftly kill your Monstera.
Underwatering
Yellowing of your Monstera’s foliage is another symptom of inadequate watering. Fortunately, fixing this is simple and much less likely to harm your Monstera.
When you inserted your finger into the ground, it came back completely dry. Your Monstera needs to drink.
A Monstera that has been submerged will reveal it in its leaves, which will droop, yellow, curl, and eventually turn light brown and crispy.
The soil needs to be watered more thoroughly because it is so dry. Transport your plant to a location where it can receive plenty of water, such as outside with a hose or in the shower. You might need a friend’s assistance to carry a large Monstera.
Shower your Monstera until water begins to drip from the pot’s bottom, then continue for a little while more. Long-term soil drying out might cause it to become hydrophobic, which means it won’t absorb water as efficiently.
Keep an eye on the yellow leaves and the dampness of the soil after this vigorous watering. You might need to increase the frequency of watering your Monstera.
Even after giving the plants enough water, if more leaves begin to turn yellow, you may have another problem, such as bugs, that has to be addressed.
Temperature Stress
True plants from the jungle are monsteras. They dislike the cold because they do not understand what winter is.
Once the temperature falls below 50F (10C), monstera plants will stop growing, and as the temperature goes closer to freezing, the leaves will begin to yellow or suffer damage.
They will also feel anxious if exposed to extremely hot conditions or harsh sunshine. They occupy the understory of the jungle, climbing the trees to shade their leaves from the glaring sun.
The afflicted leaves of the Monstera will turn yellow, crispy, or brown under any temperature stress. Younger, more delicate leaves may be more vulnerable to temperature stress, however older or younger leaves are not always where this stress begins.
Look at the plant’s position if you see yellow leaves on your Monstera:
- Does it face a southwest window that receives intense afternoon sun?
- Is it next to a window that drafts in the winter?
- Does it stand close to a hot radiator?
Your Monstera may become stressed from any of these sources of excessive heat. It would be ideal if you relocated your Monstera a little distance from the troublesome source to an area with more constant temperatures.
Repotting Stress
Have you lately moved your Monstera into a new location? Stress from repotting could be the cause of its yellow leaves.
After transplant, monsteras frequently exhibit sensitivity. The roots being exposed for too long, a change in soil, or even repotting at the incorrect time of year can all contribute to stress in this situation (late winter to early spring is best).
The leaves and petioles of a Monstera that is experiencing transplant shock will droop, making it appear as though it needs watering. Starting with the oldest leaves, it could start to turn its leaves yellow.
The Monstera attempts to conserve nutrients and water after the stressful occurrence by turning its leaves yellow. It will ultimately return to normal, and in its new pot, it will be even happy.
By relocating your Monstera in the same spot and keeping the same watering routine after transplant, you can help the plant feel less stressed. The transplant shock will worsen if there is too little or too much light.
Don’t fertilize the plant until it has healed and begun to grow once more. You can give it a little additional humidity if it still feels dry even after frequent watering.
Improper Light
Monsteras don’t like extremes in light, just like they don’t like them in water or temperature.
If they receive the wrong kind of light—whether it’s too much or too little—they may start to produce yellowing leaves. They do best in direct, strong light.
Too much light: Leaf Burn
As I already said, monsteras do not thrive in direct sunshine in the wild. The leaves will burn if they receive too much direct light.
Too much light can burn a Monstera leaf, causing the burned area to turn crispy and brown (or black), while the surrounding areas of the leaf turn yellow.
The entire leaf may or may not die and fall off depending on how much of it has burned.
If your Monstera is placed in front of a south or west-facing window, this is more likely to happen. By placing your Monstera a few feet away from the bright window, you can avoid leaf burn.