How to grow delicious monstera. You will require a Monstera deliciosa plant, cutting-edge scissors, and either a pot of soil or water.
Pick a stem to cut.
Pick a cutting of stem that has numerous nodes or leaves. While some aerial roots are useful, they are not necessary.
Pick a growth medium.
Your cutting can be multiplied in either water or soil. Water functions equally well as dirt and has the advantage of making progress monitoring simpler.
- Bright and cozy
- Keep wet and fresh.
If growing in water, make regular water changes. Give it regular waterings if it’s growing in soil to keep the cutting damp.
Disregard it!
If you took the cutting during the winter dormant phase, it can take some time for any growth to develop.
Pot up
When you spot established new growth, such some roots and a leaf that hasn’t fully expanded, pot it up in a suitable container.
Propagate at the Right Time of Year
The ideal time of year—and perhaps the only time of year—to take cuttings from a Monstera is in the spring.
This is due to the fact that it is emerging from its dormant state from the winter months and beginning its best growing season.
Additionally, it lessens the stress to the mother plant. Propagation can be successful in the early fall, albeit it might go more slowly.
You Can’t Propagate a Monstera Leaf
You cannot develop a new Monstera from a leaf since roots can only sprout from the node and nowhere else on the plant.
I’ve seen some folks who try to reproduce a gigantic, lovely leaf with gorgeous fenestrations, but they simply cut it off at the stem’s base and hope for the best.
It won’t set roots, but it will look lovely in a vase of water. The node must be located; it will resemble an intersection in the stem with a brown bump.
Your Monstera plant might be too young to reproduce if you can’t discover any nodes on it.
After a few weeks, nodes ought to start to emerge if you move it to a more sunny place and increase the humidity a little.
You’ll be on your way to a forest full of magnificent Monsteras if you brush up on my best advice for novice indoor plant maintenance!
Where should I cut Monstera to spread it?
, you should separate each leaf and node on either side of the node/aerial root into independent segments.
The youngest leaf has a node that was still propagation-viable despite not having fully matured (you can kind of see it bumping through).
After you have separated your cuttings, you should remove any outdated sheathing from the leaf stems. When submerged in water for an extended period of time, they can decay and hinder the propagation process.
Your cuttings are now ready to go to their temporary residence. All you need is water and a vessel—I like clear ones.
It’s best to let the cuts to “heal” or dry up a little bit before immersing the cuttings in water. This only takes a little while.
The aerial root can be cut back, but I prefer to leave mine uncut. To make it sit comfortably at the bottom of my vessel, I simply delicately wrap it up.
The remaining stems are then arranged in the vessel, each one being spaced apart to allow for proper root development as well as aesthetic appeal once they are planted in soil. Due to their new root system, there isn’t much room to try to arrange them at that time.
Simply add water to completely cover the roots and ends once they are positioned how you like.
Place it somewhere bright, but not in the sun, and replace the water every three to five days. After roughly 2-3 weeks, roots should start to form!
In addition to new roots, it has also sprouted a huge number of new leaves.
Here is a picture of my very first effort at growing a monstera. I took the above steps, potted the cuttings in soil after around three months, and continued. It has thrived ever since I started watering it once a week!
Your inquiries are addressed:
Yes! Once they are in the proper light and receiving the appropriate amount of water, they are excellent for beginners and very simple to care for.
I plant them in a well-draining pot using ordinary Miracle Grow indoor potting soil. No need for moss or pearls.
Yes, to answer simply. That is a factor in the propagation process. I wouldn’t recommend making excessive or frequent cuts because you run the danger of harming the plant by putting it into shock.
It’s usually time for a new and larger pot when you can see the roots through the dirt or when you notice the growth has significantly halted.
All of my plants receive fertilizer during the growth season (April to September). I will fertilize every other week because I water them all once a week. I prefer liquid fertilizers (plant food) since I can regulate the amount that each plant receives.
In the summer, grocery stores like Kroger or your neighborhood Lowe’s or Home Depot may stock them. It’s always a good idea to check for nearby and online nurseries, such as
Expect no new leaf growth.
Monstera plants cannot develop from a single leaf cutting, unlike certain other plants like Sansevieria (Snake plant) and cactus.
Monstera plants grown without nodes will, regrettably, be unable to produce new leaf growth.
It lacks the tissue needed for cell division and the development of new leaves.
The leaf can survive without a node.
To keep turgid and fresh, the leaf will continue to absorb water by osmosis.
However, it must be situated in the optimal climate to prevent overheating and excessive transpiration, which would cause the leaf to wither.
Can You Propagate a Leaf Without a Node?
Simply put, no. For your cutting to produce new leaves, it MUST have a node.
You’ve certainly drooled over stunning images of a single monstera leaf in a lovely glass vase of clear water on Instagram and in home décor magazines.
The bad news is that even while a leaf without a node might develop some roots, it will still only be a leaf with roots. It won’t develop into a new monstera plant with stalks or additional leaves. There will never be more than one leaf.
The node is essential for propagation since it stores all of the genetic data required to develop a new plant.
Do All Monstera Leaves Have Nodes?
Nodes are little bumps that develop on the side of your monstera’s stem that is not covered by a leaf, not even on the stems of the leaves.
Your monstera’s vine develops nodes. In fact, because it hasn’t matured sufficiently, a young monstera may not have any nodes yet. Your monstera may not yet be mature enough to propagate from cuttings if it appears as though leaves are sprouting directly out of the soil. (However, if it’s big enough, you might be able to propagate it using separation!)
Most of your plant’s leaves will be accompanied by a node on the other side of the stem once it begins to vine.
Can You Propagate Leafless Nodes?
So, while you CANNOT propagate a node without a leaf, you CAN propagate a leaf without a node!
Online vendors may provide leafless, unrooted nodes for sale. But the success rate won’t be as high as when you propagate cuttings with one or two leaves.
How is philodendron propagated?
The first step in philodendron propagation is to place your cuttings in a fresh jar of water. Verify that the nodes are completely submerged. Then put your cuttings in a spot with indirect light. Every few days, change the water, and after a few weeks, you should have fresh roots that are prepared for transplant!
Can Monstera survive forever in the water?
Monstera plants, for example, can live in water indefinitely; just make sure to change the water if it becomes cloudy, and you may occasionally top it up with diluted hydroponic fertilizer to replace the nutrients it would normally get from soil. Additionally, see water propagation and succulent water propagation.
How long does it take for Monstera cuttings to root?
After 3-5 weeks, the roots from your cuttings should start to grow. The new roots should be at least an inch long; this is the primary thing you want to check for. Your cutting is prepared to be planted into a pot once it develops several roots that size.
How much time does a Monstera cutting require to root in soil?
You followed our advice on propagation first, and now you want to know when to plant your new Monstera. Wait until the longest, whitest, fuzzy roots may branch off into numerous, smaller roots. It is appropriate to bury your Monstera cutting in soil once these little feeder roots have grown to at least 3 inches (8 cm) in length.
Comparing the root volume to the size of the pot you want to put it in will help you determine when your cutting is ready to be planted. For instance, when the root volume of a small Monstera, such as an adansonii, could fit in a 2 inch (5 cm) container, the cutting might be planted (alone or with other cuttings).
I often wait until the roots of a Monstera deliciosa, which has stronger roots, can fill a 3.5 inch (9 cm) pot. I wait till the roots of an albo variegated Monstera deliciosa can fill a 4.5 inch (11 cm) pot. When an albo Monstera cutting is planted, the chance of leaf loss from transplant shock is reduced because the cutting has more roots.
How long does it take for a Monstera cutting to root?
The length of aerial root that is available determines how long it will take a Monstera cutting to root. Additionally, it depends on whether the aerial root was expanding actively prior to the cutting.
Usually, short aerial roots grow into a single, long new root. Longer aerial roots have the ability to begin producing new roots from both the sides and the tip, hastening the rooting process. Without aerial roots, monstera cuttings must develop a new root from within the stem, which takes more time.
A Monstera deliciosa cutting with aerial roots that are actively growing ought to take root quite rapidly. The color and texture of the aerial root can be used to determine its age. It is new if it is flexible and white, light brown, or green in color. It will take a lot longer to begin producing new roots if it is stiff, dark in color, and has a lot of bark flaking off.
The aerial root typically transforms into a white, fluffy true root after a few weeks. The process of delaying feeder roots then requires a few more weeks. From the time the first fuzzy white root appears until your Monstera cutting is prepared for planting, allow a minimum of six weeks.
When a monstera root is in contact with a surface, feeder roots form more quickly. Try to use a short container while growing plants in water so that the root tip will immediately contact the bottom. The root will continue to grow without branching if the water is too deep.
I’ve had success using LiquiDirt to induce quicker root growth once roots have begun to emerge.
Switching straight from water to soil
Once your Monstera has enough roots to make the shift from its propagation medium to soil, remove it. For your roots, the switch from water to soil propagation is a significant one. This transition is more difficult than moving from moss or perlite to soil for propagation.
When you plant a Monstera cutting in soil, part of the roots may dry up or die if there aren’t enough of them. The “water roots” do not have as much fuzzy root hair to absorb water because they are accustomed to being constantly moist. They need some time to develop more fuzz so that they can absorb water from the earth.
Assume that up to one-third of the roots of your Monstera cutting will be harmed or die. You need to make sure that the new plant will be able to survive on the remaining roots.
You won’t harm your Monstera plant if its propagation media has too many roots growing in it. The nutrients in the soil and the microbiome of helpful bacteria that support soil roots are the major things you are losing out on. Your cutting will grow more quickly if you place it in soil.
I make an effort to take too many roots too lightly. I want to ensure that my cuttings survive the switch, even if they develop a little bit more slowly in the interim.
Switching to another medium before soil
Switching from water to soil is fine for low-cost plants. Try using perlite or moss instead of soil for pricey albo Monstera cuttings or any plant you want to be particularly cautious with.
Start propagating in water and continue doing so until your cutting starts to root. After that, while the roots are developing, swap to wet perlite or moss. In a firm medium, roots will branch out more and develop more fuzz. As a result, the plant’s roots are already prepared to absorb water from the soil, which lessens stress during the transition to soil.
Can Monstera live in water forever?
Your Monstera can be kept in water or some alternative media if you don’t want to plant it in soil. While water is sufficient on its own for proliferation, fertilizer is required to keep your Monstera in water over the long term.
Growing Monstera with Hydroponics
You must supply nutrients to the water when growing plants hydroponically for the growth to continue. There are three stages to permanently submerge your Monstera.
First, make frequent water changes. To prevent the growth of mold or algae, rinse the roots and maintain the container tidy.
A N-P-K fertilizer made specifically for hydroponics, like Dyna-Gro Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, should be used next. A nutrition solution is made of of water and fertilizer. To view the most recent pricing on Amazon, click the image or link.