In full sun to light shade, the plant thrives in a pot indoors or out. Provide an uniform amount of moisture and a high level of humidity. Placing a thin layer of rocks on a saucer and balancing the pot on top is the greatest technique to add more humidity to a Persian shield indoors. Fill the saucer with water. This keeps the roots out of the water while increasing the humidity in the air through evaporation.
In warm climates, Persian shield can be grown outside and planted in the ground as part of a border display. Treat the plant as an annual in cool zones or bring it inside at the end of the summer.
Does Persian shield like sun or shade?
Persian shield thrives in both the sun and the shade. It requires constant watering when planted in full sun, especially in warmer areas, to keep it from wilting. Spread a 3- to 4-inch-deep layer of mulch over the soil around the Persian shield plant to make it easier to grow. This helps to keep the soil cool and moist for a longer period of time. If you grow Persian shield in pots, you can do the same thing!
Use a general-purpose fertilizer to fertilize Persian shield in the spring. For information on how much and how often to fertilize, refer to the package instructions.
Persian shield can be pruned at any time. Pinching it back every now and again promotes the plant to grow fuller and bushier, especially in the shade.
In Zone 10, Persian shield can be used as a landscape shrub. Grow it as an annual in other places.
Does Persian shield come back every year?
It is hardy in USDA hardiness zones 9 to 11, but in milder locations, it is most typically cultivated indoors or as a summer annual. Persian shield may die back to the ground after frost in zone 9, and during mild winters in zones 7 and 8, but it will survive and sprout the next season.
How do you plant Persian shields outside?
If you do decide to put your Persian shield outside, keep in mind that it will only endure for one season or that you will need to return it inside once the weather cools down. You should also space your plants 3648 inches apart. Fertilizer works wonders for Persian shield plants.
What plants look good with Persian shield?
I have other tropicals in a raised bed, so the plant can grow into the earth and get plenty of water.
Ferns, Caladiums, Lamb’s Ears, Silver Plectranthus, and Impatients are all ideal companion plants.
Another fantastic idea is to plant them among red or purple flowers or foliage to complement the Persian Shield’s colors.
During the summer months, this plant can be planted in the garden, but don’t let it get too chilly.
What can I plant with a Persian shield plant?
Strobilanthes dyerianus is a delicate perennial with iridescent purple leaves that adds drama to any garden. This evergreen subshrub in the acanthus family (Acanthaceae) with the common name Persian Shield has been planted for its attractive foliage indoors and out since Victorian times. It is mainly used as a seasonal annual or as a houseplant in colder locations, as it is only hardy to zone 10 (maybe root hardy to zone 8).
When the weather is mild, Persian shield languishes, but when the weather is hot and humid, it swiftly grows into a huge, bushy, mounded plant. This soft-stemmed herbaceous shrub can reach a height of 5 feet and a width of 3 feet when planted in containers or in cooler climes, but it usually stays considerably smaller.
The lance-shaped leaves on the opposite side have lightly serrated edges and pronounced veins, giving them a quilted appearance. The foliage is a deep purple, lilac, and green with silvery highlights on older leaves, giving the upper surface a distinctive metallic or iridescent luster. The lower leaf surface is purple-maroon in color. Individual leaves grow to be 6-8 inches long and have the best color in warmer weather. Plants acquire woody stems as they mature, and the hue of the foliage tends to fade, so it’s best to start with new plants or take cuttings every year to get the most attractive foliage.
Older plants produce short conical spikes of tiny blooms raised above the foliage in moderate areas in the fall and winter. The five-lobed flowers are pale blue to violet in color and have two, three, or four stamens. The flowers arise from sticky brachts and open progressively along the spike, allowing the plant to bloom for an extended period of time. After a while, the wasted blossoms turn brown, making them unattractive for a long time. Floral buds emerge from every node once the plant produces spikes, and the stems can no longer be used for propagation. Plants are difficult to return to the vegetative stage. Bud initiation is unpredictable, and the elements that cause reproduction are unknown.
For foliar contrast, Persian shield is a nice addition to bigger gardens. It contrasts beautifully with variegated, lime-green or chartreuse-colored foliage. For a monochromatic design, pair the purple leaves with pink, lavender, or purple flowers, such as purple flowered lantana or Verbena bonariensis, or with yellow or orange flowers, such as Tithonia or marigolds, for a high contrast look. For a more refined aesthetic, the silvery highlights on the leaves mirror white flowers or white to silvery foliage, such as lamb’s ears, dusty miller, or silver Plectranthus.
Plant it alongside coleus (such as one with lime green leaves with purple veins and margins), or mix it with caladiums, elephant ears, and/or cannas for a dramatic, tropical appearance. It can be used as a temporary specimen planting in the landscape or around ponds, or it can be used to big mixed container plantings if its growth is regulated.
In northern places, plant Persian shield in full sun; in southern states, it prefers moderate shade. If it becomes overly leggy, it can be pinched back, but this is usually not a concern when grown as a seasonal annual. Provide a soil that is rich in organic matter, has good drainage, and receives plenty of water. Plants should be spaced 18-24 inches apart. Fertilize once a month. Persian shield has few pests and is said to be unappealing to deer and rabbits. Spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs can all infest indoor plants. In frigid locations, this plant may typically be kept over the winter by digging it up in the fall (long before the first frost) and storing it indoors in moderate light. Plants may lose all of their leaves, but they should reappear in the spring from the roots.
Cuttings are commonly used to propagate this plant, but it can also be cultivated from seed. Early spring or summer basal or softwood cuttings root quickly in water or damp medium. Cuttings can also be collected late in the summer or early in the fall and brought indoors to overwinter.
There are about 250 other Strobilanthes species, including S. maculates from the Himalayas, which has silver-splotched leaves, and S. lactates from Brazil, which has white blotched leaves, but none of these are widely available as ornamentals.
Is Persian shield poisonous to dogs?
Persian Shield is often a safe choice for properties and households with children, pets, and livestock. Although there is no evidence that this plant is harmful, some anecdotal reports claim that the sap can irritate the skin.
It’s usually a good idea to use gloves and wash your hands after handling any plant. Persian Shield isn’t any different.
Wear garden gloves whenever you pinch the Persian Shield Strobilanthes dyerianus plant back, take cuttings, or otherwise handle it. After you’ve finished touching this plant, wash your hands.
When should I repot my Persian shield?
Fittonia, Hypoestes, and Zebra Plants are all members of the Acantha family, which also includes Persian Shields. With this in mind, your specimen may begin to send out flower spikes in late spring, with many flowers contained within the bracts. Persian Shields, unfortunately, are unlikely to blossom due to poor growing circumstances, and are consequently planted mostly for their foliage.
Repotting
Repot in the spring every three years, using a potting mix labeled “Houseplant” and the next sized pot with proper drainage. Due to the increased danger of root rot and repotting-related concerns (such as transplant shock), Persian Shields are significantly better potbound for several years. Only repot if absolutely required.
If you’d want a personal guide to repotting your houseplant, book a 1-on-1 video call with Joe Bagley.
How do you bring a Persian shield back to life?
When Persian Shield becomes leggy in the spring, cut it back. In the spring and summer, pinch off the tops of the stems to stimulate branching for a bigger, bushier plant. Pruning tip: Just after a node, cut a stem at an angle (the place where a leaf is attached to the stem). Cutting the stem here will push it to branch out.
How do I make my Persian shield bushy?
Persian shield is a low-maintenance plant. To encourage bushiness, pinch the stems back.
In the winter, keep the soil a little drier by watering the plant when the top couple of inches (5 cm) of soil are dry.
One of the most crucial Persian shield care guidelines, especially for potted plants, is fertilization. Feed with a half-dilution of liquid plant food every two weeks. Feeding should be stopped in the fall and winter.
Keep an eye out for mites and dirt gnats. Horticultural soap and soil changes can be used to tackle these issues.
Why is my Persian shield faded?
If your plant doesn’t get enough water, it will quickly wilt, and you’ll notice it. If this occurs, increase your watering frequency to compensate, making sure to maintain the soil moist and the humidity around the plant at a high level. Even when it’s in horrible shape, it rebounds back rapidly.
As previously said, too much light can cause your strobilanthes dyeriana’s leaves to fade. Shielding it from direct sunlight can help to alleviate the condition. It’s natural for the coloring of older leaves to fade before they fall off.