How do you tell if your plant requires repotting before I get into the processes of repotting a rootbound peace lily?
There are a few signs that your peace lily may need a larger pot before you remove it from its container.
- Your peace lily’s soil appears to be drying out much faster than it used to, and you may be having trouble keeping up with watering it.
All of these signs indicate that your peace lily’s roots are filling up the pot and that it requires assistance! Let’s get started with the three steps to repotting.
Remove from the pot and loosen the root ball
Remove your plant from its pot first. Simply compress the container’s edge and gently pull the plant out if it’s grown in a plastic nursery pot. If your plant is in a rigid container, run a knife around the inside perimeter of the pot to assist you remove it.
After I took one of my peace lilies from its pot, this is what it looked like.
Check out how root-bound it is.
Take note of the roots that circle the bottom and how firmly they are packed.
When repotting a plant, loosening the rootball is crucial.
If you don’t do this (especially if you’re dealing with peace lilies or other plants that are severely root bound), your plant will suffer when you put it in its new container.
I had had a peace lily (Spathiphyllum) in a large pot that wasn’t doing well, and I couldn’t figure out why.
The plant was barely growing and had begun to deteriorate.
I had repotted it a few years ago, and the plant wasn’t growing as well as I had hoped, so I decided to check it out.
What I discovered was a little startling.
There were no new roots in the pot!
And it had been cooking for years in that pot!
The roots remained contained within the tight rootball, which I did not loosen when repotted.
I’m ashamed of myself!
It was probably due to laziness, but at the very least I was able to figure out what had happened.
Two Ways to Loosen the Rootball
I’d always start by making sure your peace lily is properly watered. Then wait a few hours, or perhaps a day, before starting to work on it. It will be easy to separate the roots this way.
When your plant is out of the pot, loosen the roots at the bottom first, then work your way up the sides.
To dislodge the roots, gently pry and separate them.
You don’t have to go crazy with this, but it will help to stimulate greater root and plant growth once you repot into a larger container.
You’re effectively freeing the roots so that they can start growing into new potting mix in their new pot.
If you have a SUPER rootbound plant, especially one with fine, tight, and fibrous roots, it may be impossible to release the rootball using your hands.
Simply take a sharp knife and make many vertical slashes or cuts on the sides and bottom of the rootball (1-2 inches long or so).
At the very least, this will allow your plant to establish new roots where the cuts were made.
Don’t be concerned if a few roots are damaged.
They’ll bounce back, and your plant will be in much better shape!
If you have a tight rootball and don’t do one of the procedures listed above, your plant may suffer the same fate as my poor Spathiphyllum (which, by the way, is doing well now!)
Choose a new pot
After that, select a new pot. When repotting, my rule of thumb is to choose the next pot size up from the old one. If you have a plant in a 4 inch diameter pot, for example, your new pot should be 6 inches in diameter.
If you choose a significantly larger container, the potting mix may take an excessive amount of time to dry out.
Whenever possible, pick a pot with a drainage hole.
Planting immediately into plain green nursery pots with drainage holes is a habit I’ve developed.
The plant is then placed in an attractive pot.
Pot it up using a well-drained potting mix
Finally, because they are moisture-loving plants, use a well-drained potting mix that retains a decent quantity of moisture.
3 parts decent potting soil (like Miracle-Gro or Espoma, both available on Amazon) and 1 part perlite is my go-to for peace lilies and many other leafy tropicals.
It’s as simple as that!
Don’t miss my piece on peace lily care, which outlines all of the requirements for your plant to grow.
I’ve also published a post about the many reasons for your peace lily’s drooping and what you can do to remedy the situation.
Looking for a one-of-a-kind Peace Lily? Etsy is one of my favorite and most convenient one-stop-shops for buying almost any plant. Today, have a look at the Peace Lily collection (link to Etsy)!
Have you recently repotted your rootbound peace lily?
Please leave a comment below.
I’d love to hear from you!
Do peace lilies like to be root bound?
For the health of your Peace Lily, light, humidity, and watering are all critical factors.
Watering, light, and humidity conditions become unimportant without appropriate drainage.
Make sure your Peace Lily is in a drainage-hole-filled pot. It makes no difference if the material is terracotta, ceramic, or plastic. As long as it has drainage holes, it’ll suffice.
I recommend using a tropical plants mix for Peace Lilies, to which you should add some perlite to improve drainage.
When you’ve finished watering your Peace Lily, make sure to empty the saucer of any extra water.
Repotting your Peace Lily should be done only if you discover it is lacking in drainage, as these plants prefer to remain root bound (having tight roots within its pot).
When your Peace Lily’s leaves get droopy less than a week after watering, and you detect crowded and malformed leaves, it’s time to repot it.
I recommend increasing the diameter of the pot by 2 inches. If you add any more, your plant will suffer!
According to some theories, Peace Lilies will cease blooming if they are put in pots that are too large for their rootball.
In fact, no Peace Lily should be planted in a pot larger than 10 inches in diameter, regardless of its size!
How do you know when to repot a peace lily?
Peace lilies aren’t bothered if their containers are a little crowded. When your plant begins to wilt more regularly, it’s time to repot. Its roots will have taken up so much of the container by then that there will be little soil left to store water. Repot your peace lily into a new container that is only a few inches bigger in diameter than the one in which it is now growing, and follow the planting instructions above.
Should you break up roots when repotting?
The majority of healthy container garden plants outgrow their containers at some point. Repotting a rootbound plant is a fantastic approach to give it new life. I used to spend a lot of time repotting container plants in my previous job as a greenhouse manager.
The first step is to recognize when it’s time to repot. Soil that dries out rapidly or has degenerated; roots firmly packed within a container or protruding from drainage holes; and water resting on the soil surface for an extended period of time after watering are all telltale indications. A plant may appear top-heavy or as though it is about to explode out of its pot. When most plants are actively developing, such as in the spring or summer, is the greatest time to repot them. Plants, on the other hand, can typically handle repotting when the circumstance calls for it.
A plant that is ready to be repotted should slide out with the soil intact. The plant may not require repotting if a large portion of the soil has washed away from the roots. If it does, a solid soil-and-root mass in the shape of the just-removed pot will most likely be present. White or light-colored roots are ideal. A major condition, such as fungal disease, is frequently indicated by black, dark-colored, or foul-smelling roots. The second step is to remove a plant from its container. It is beneficial to irrigate the root ball adequately in advance if a plant is rootbound. Invert the pot and support the top of the root ball with one hand for plants in small to medium pots. Place your other hand on the bottom of the pot and fling downwards, stopping abruptly. After one or two throws, many plants will have slipped out. If not, strike the pot’s edge against a solid surface, such as a potting bench, while still holding it in both hands. It may take a few good whacks to get the plant out; don’t break the container.
Roots packed tightly in a pot don’t absorb nutrients as well as they should. Trim the roots and loosen the root ball before replanting to improve nutrient absorption. If required, remove as much as the bottom third of the root ball with a sharp knife or pruning shears. If you chop off a big tangle of root tissue, don’t be startled. Also, about a third of the way up the surviving root ball, make three or four vertical cuts.
To keep the plant from strangling itself with its own roots as it grows, cut through any roots that grow in a circular pattern. Shave or peel away the outer covering of the root ball if the roots are thick along the sides. Alternatively, use your fingers to gently disentangle the root ball, as if you were mussing someone’s hair. Also, do this along the root ball’s top border.
The size of the new pot should be determined by the plant’s potential growth rate, how well it is growing under current conditions, and the plant’s eventual size. Rely on your own perception of what a healthy specimen of a species should resemble. When in doubt, go with the next-larger pot.
Cover the drainage hole(s) with a paper towel, coffee filter, mesh screen, or pot shard to prevent soil from pouring out the bottom of the pot. To avoid sealing the hole, use a pot shard with the convex side up. Gravel or charcoal at the bottom of pots is typical practice, but they don’t help with drainage and take up valuable space, therefore I don’t encourage it.
Put a few inches of moist soil in the pot and lightly push it down to repot a little plant that’s easy to lift. Place the plant in the center of the pot. The goal is to get the root ball’s top to rest approximately an inch below the pot’s rim. If the plant is too deep in the dirt, carefully lift it and add more soil. Remove the plant and dig out some soil if it sits too high, or simply throw the soil out and start over.
Fill the space around the root ball with soil at this point. I’ve noticed two methods for doing this job: “stuffing” and “filling.” Stuffers enjoy compacting soil around a plant. Fillers prefer to fill the pot to the brim with dirt and let it settle in for the first few waterings. I’m mainly a filler, although I occasionally help out with top-heavy plants that need to be balanced. Whether you stuff or fill, leave some space at the top so the pot can contain enough water to properly hydrate the soil with each watering.
Can I cut the roots of my peace lily?
Step 3: Cut any roots connecting the leafy piece to the mother plant using a clean, sharp gardening blade. You may be able to cut numerous clumps depending on the size of the mother plant. Step 4: Repot the mother plant with fresh dirt and plant the new peace lily in the pot.
Should I water peace lily after repotting?
Don’t be scared to trim the roots during repotting. I pull the plant out of the pot and cut from the bottom of the roots up toward the plant to divide peace lilies. By splitting the plant in this manner, you may ensure that the foliage has a strong root system. The peace lily will not be harmed by this kind of root cutting.
I place the soil in the container and make a hole for the rootball when I repot any plant.
The top of the rootball is placed at the same level as it was in the original container.
I fill in the gap between the rootball and the container’s side with additional dirt.
It’s worth noting that I didn’t use any water during this process.
After the plant has been repotted, you should wet the soil.
Why? Because any air pockets that have formed between the rootball and the fresh soil will be flushed out by the water. After transplanting, the soil should constantly be completely moist. For peace lilies, you’ll want to maintain the soil evenly moist.
Despite the fact that your strategy differed from mine, your peace lily should recover.
To aid with the shock, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged and add a little Vitamin B1. Give it some time after that. Remember that peace lilies will droop for a variety of causes, including being too wet, too dry, too hot, or too cold. It’s critical to maintain a consistent level of moisture and temperature.
How do you fix a sagging peace lily?
The Peace Lily is an Aroid, which means it has thick, glossy leaves and a luxuriant spathe. These plants naturally grow and thrive in tropical rainforests, so it’s no surprise that they enjoy water. This isn’t to say that they enjoy being soaked all the time.
How Underwatering A Peace Lily Causes Drooping:
Peace is being submerged. Lily causes drooping because the root system does not give enough water and nutrients to the stem and leaves. As a result, the plant begins to droop and dehydrate.
Peace Lilies have a tendency to droop abruptly when they don’t get enough water. It’s not uncommon to have a healthy-looking plant one day and then notice that it’s drooping the next.
When it comes to Peace Lilies, the trick is to water them right before flowers begin to wilt and droop. Fortunately, the plant is fairly tough, and if the leaves are drooping from being underwatered, simply give it some water and expect it to shortly recover.
If you leave your Peace Lily dehydrated for too long, it will develop yellow, dry leaves, so don’t leave it without water for too long when it begins to droop. Learning about the factors that impact how often you should water your houseplants is an excellent skill to have in order to keep your indoor plants happy. Here’s a link to a full article on the subject.
How Overwatering A Peace Lily Causes Drooping:
Unfortunately, an overwatered Peace Lily is less forgiving than one that is underwatered – especially if you wait too long before acting.
Overwatering a Peace Lily on a regular basis generates soggy soil, which leads to root rot. Root rot causes the roots to stop working and eventually die.
Because the plant is unable to absorb water and nutrients, even if there is plenty of water in the soil, it cannot reach the plant’s leaves, causing drooping.
Overwatering is often indicated by yellow leaves on your peace lily, so act quickly if you notice this. In this post, I discuss why peace lilies develop yellow leaves, which you may find interesting.
To avoid overwatering, make sure your home plant has well-draining soil and that you check the soil before watering it every time!
How do I make my peace lily grow bigger?
Provide bright indirect light, regularly monitor watering needs, and lightly fertilize your Peace Lily every 2-3 months to help it grow bigger. To keep your plant from becoming overly stressed, address any abnormalities as soon as possible. Individual cultivars vary in size, with full-grown plants measuring anywhere from 1 to 4 feet tall.
Do peace lilies like to be misted?
Under-watering is more forgiving to peace lilies than over-watering. Water when the soil seems dry to the touch to keep the plants equally hydrated. Take care not to overwater the plants. Misting the foliage of peace lilies is also beneficial, which you may do when watering them during the summer.
What happens if I don’t loosen roots before planting?
If you transplant a pot-bound plant into the ground or into another pot without first freeing the tangled and overgrown roots, the plant will continue to grow in a circle instead of reaching out into the earth to anchor itself.
Should you water right after repotting?
- A day or two before you plan to re-pot your plant, give it a good soak. This will make it easier to remove your plant from its pot and keep it moist, reducing the chance of shock.
- Remove the plant from its pot with care. You may need to tilt the pot on its side or have a buddy hold the pot while you grab the plant, depending on its size and degree of root binding. To loosen roots on plants with a lot of roots, run a butter knife along the pot’s perimeter.
- Loosen the root ball gently. Shake off any extra soil gently so as not to injure the roots. Sharp shears should be used to cut off any brown, black, or clearly damaged roots. Trim up to 2/3 of the root mass starting at the bottom and sides of the plant for extremely root bound plants or if you plan to only re-pot without potting up into a larger planter.
- If you’re just repotting, remove any remaining soil from the pot and wash away any sediments with hot water. If you’re potting up your plant, find a clean new pot that’s no more than 2″ wider in diameter than its previous home too much space hinders growth and can lead to root rot.
- If you’re potting into a container that doesn’t have drainage, we recommend putting a.5″ layer of activated charcoal in the bottom. Some people propose putting a layer of pebbles at the bottom of any pot to help with drainage; however, it’s uncertain whether this helps, therefore we leave pebbles out as long as the pot has drainage. After that, add a layer of fresh potting soil to the bottom of the pot so that the plant’s base is about.5″ below the rim.
- Fill the new pot with soil until all of the roots are covered and there is no air. Firm the soil slightly to remove any air pockets, but be careful not to damage the fragile roots. Lightly water the new soil to keep it moist but not soggy.
Plants go through a shock phase after being re-potted or potted up. It’s perfectly normal, so don’t be concerned. Plants may appear wilted and thirsty, but don’t water them for approximately a week after they’ve been re-potted to ensure that any roots that were damaged during the re-potting have healed. Place plants in a cooler, shadier location throughout the recuperation period.
Fertilizer is commonly found in potting soil. You can hold off on fertilizing for about 6 weeks after re-potting to avoid over-fertilizing and harming your plant.
The majority of your indoor plant’s sustenance is absorbed through the soil’s nutrients. The soil becomes gradually degraded over time. After a few seasons of flourishing, you may discover that your plant is producing little new growth, off-color leaves, or is just overall “unhappy.” Even if you fertilize regularly, re-potting (or potting up) with new soil will provide your plant the nutrients it requires to thrive.
Have you ever noticed how water seems to seep out of the bottom of the pot as soon as you water it? Your plant is most likely root bound, a situation in which the plant’s roots have wrapped around and around the outside of the pot in a desperate attempt to find additional room. This generates channels for water to pass through, which is why watering a root-bound plant is so difficult. Re-potting will help your plant access the water it needs to keep its thirst quenched and its foliage full by freeing up these roots.
Everyone, including houseplants, appreciates a little breathing room. Another reason to liberate root-bound plants is to encourage fresh development. Plants can bounce back quickly and abundantly after being re-potted. Your plant will be happy and grow faster if its root system is stronger and growing.
Have you ever overwatered your plants? Don’t be concerned. We’re all guilty of it. The problem is root rot, which occurs when roots are harmed by over irrigation and turn dark brown or black. In this state, they are sensitive to disease and are unable to absorb water (which is why an over-watered plant can sometimes seem thirsty). Clipping off these damaged roots aids in the recovery of a plant after it has been over-watered and is your best defense against fungus and disease.
Many plants can be divided to free up space and produce new plants when they get overcrowded. Repotting season is an excellent time to take advantage of offshoots and pups and divide them into self-sufficient plants.
Reminder: Don’t re-pot your plant if it’s stressed! For example, if the plant has wilted due to thirst, bathe it and allow it to recover before repotting. Repotting should also be avoided during periods of harsh weather, such as heat waves, as this can cause further stress.