Why Is My Parlor Palm Turning White

Your parlor palm is turning white because it is either receiving excessive sunlight, has bug infestations, or has calcium or lime buildup from being watered with hard tap water.

These palms virtually ever receive full sun exposure in the wild; instead, they thrive under filtered sunshine.

The fronds of your parlor palm becoming white is typically a sign of leaf sunscald.

The plant’s natural defenses against direct sunlight are weak, so the tissue’s outer layers burn and reveal white discolouration on the plant’s leaves and stems.

The most likely reason for your palm going white is if you’ve just experienced an extremely sunny period or have lately positioned it next to a window in direct sunlight.

Too Much Sun

These plants often thrive in shaded areas, like the forest floor, so they struggle when direct sunlight reaches their leaves.

They will thrive and adore you if you can find them a really bright area that is not in direct sunlight.

If your palm is exposed to direct sunlight for an extended amount of time, think about moving it or covering the window with a transparent drape.

Sunburn is typically easy to identify because the leaf tips nearest to the window will typically be bleached.

If the plant has been harmed, it is preferable to remove sunburned leaves with a pair of sharp scissors because they won’t heal.

That will motivate the plant to concentrate on strong, new growth, and unless it has sustained severe sunburn all over, it should recover quickly.

But it’s not a good idea to let your plant be burned frequently; this will stress it out and make it grow slowly and unhappy.

Even in the dead of winter, keeping your hand out of direct sunlight will undoubtedly make it happier and greener.

Why are my palm’s leaves going white?

There are two frequent causes of white spots on palm leaves. To identify what is what in your tree, you should give it a critical inspection.

Why your palm fronds have white spots

Some palm plants, including Pygmy date palms, have waxy coatings that are visible on the foliage as tiny white dots. There is no need for concern because this is usual.

A scale insect infestation is indicated by additional puffed-up, slightly elevated white dots. The cycad scale is a widespread pest that infects sago palms. The leaves of your palm will appear to be coated with white dots when a large population of scale pests invade it. Additionally, the plant’s leaves may turn yellow or brown as the insects rob it of nutrition.

Is my palm tree dying?

An infestation of scale insects can be quite harmful. The plant may finally perish if these troublesome bugs remain for an extended period of time.

Unfortunately, there is no certainty that your tree can be salvaged once scale insects have colonized it. But there’s a chance you can get rid of scale insects if you catch them early and act quickly.

What you should do is:

Obtain advice from a Davey certified arborist to decide what to do. Horticultural oils are ineffective against a large number of scale insects, which necessitates specialized treatments of systemic insecticides.

Why is the color fading on my Parlor Palm?

A Parlor Palm requires a darker area of your home as opposed to certain other types of palms. The leaves of this tiny palm will burn in the presence of direct sunshine, which it cannot endure at all. Your Parlor Palm’s darker green leaves will turn light green or yellow in an area that is too bright.

The Parlor palm cannot withstand direct sunlight, therefore exposing your plant to it will result in sunburned leaves. Unfortunately, these sunburns are permanent and appear as follows:

Make careful to relocate your Parlor palm to a darker area as soon as you notice this occurring to it. Any burned leaves can be removed because they won’t change back to their original green hue. By removing the burned leaves, you’ll replenish your plant’s nutrients and encourage the growth of new leaves.

The leaves will appear as follows under the ideal lighting conditions:

When the leaves are a deeper shade of green, you may tell that there isn’t enough light. You can tell your leaves are receiving the ideal amount of light when they resemble the ones in this picture. Checking young leaves can allow you to determine whether your Parlor palm is receiving enough light. Older leaves that have changed from dark green to light green and yellow won’t return to that color. You can tell if your Parlor palm is now receiving enough sunshine by observing the new leaves that are sprouting on the plant.

What does a Parlor Palm look like when it’s overwatered?

Unbelievably, overwatering rather than underwatering is a more frequent cause of your Parlor Palm drooping. The cause of everything is root rot, which develops as a result of a plant being consistently overwatered. Your Parlor Palm’s roots will be starved of oxygen and susceptible to opportunistic infections if it is kept in perpetually moist, mucky soil.

An overwatered plant’s foliage will initially begin to turn yellow. This frequently starts in the lower leaves and progresses up the plant, eventually affecting the whole thing. Even when the soil is wet, once the roots begin to wither, they are no longer able to supply the plant with water, and the plant begins to experience drought conditions. Your Parlor Palm’s fronds will begin to wilt and will appear as though it wants a drink badly.

Examine your plant carefully because it usually has yellow, drooping foliage instead of the widespread brown, crispy leaves that you might anticipate from a plant that has been submerged. You might smell root rot, which has an unpleasant stench, and the soil will be damp.

Overwatering is a problem that is not just brought on by excessive watering but also by other elements that lengthen the time soil remains wet. It can take a long time for soil to dry up between waterings if you plant a little plant in a large pot, use soil that doesn’t drain well, or use a pot without drainage holes.

This makes it more likely that your Parlor Palm’s roots will spend a long time in moist, inadequately oxygenated soil, which will cause root rot.

Early detection and prompt action are required to solve this issue. You may cure your overwatered plant or treat root rot by following these procedures.

Plant your Parlor Palm in soil that drains well. A fantastic alternative is a blend of 60% peat, 30% perlite, and 10% compost. Make sure the container has plenty of drainage holes and select one that is only a few inches broader than the plant.

How can I tell if my Parlor Palm is on its last legs?

Lots of direct, bright light is preferred by indoor palms. If your location doesn’t have enough light, go with the more adaptive varieties because inadequate lighting is a major contributor to stress. Remember that even animals that can endure lower light levels typically value more.

The brilliance of the sun, however, rapidly decreases with distance. While a skylight over a tall plant can be fantastic, it is insufficient for shorter plants that are much farther away. Over the winter, be aware of the changing seasons and dimming conditions; if necessary, add a grow light.

What cures the white palm fungus?

The easiest strategy to avoid mold and other problems is usually to grow disease-resistant plant kinds. If that is not an option, you can try any of these home cures to get rid of the white mold on your plants:

  • Utilize neem oil. A naturally occurring ingredient called neem oil functions as an efficient insecticide to help fight off unwanted pests like white mold. Every few days, liberally spray the diseased plant with a mixture of two tablespoons of organic neem oil and a half gallon of water until the mold is gone.
  • Utilize mouthwash. White mold can sometimes be successfully treated with mouthwash containing ethanol. Apply a solution of one part mouthwash to three parts water to the afflicted regions. Avoid being too saturated. While mouthwash is a successful treatment for white mold, overuse can damage young plant development and burn leaves.
  • 3. Apply vinegar. Vinegar is a tried-and-true approach for getting rid of mold and bothersome white patches on your plants. Spray the affected leaves and stems with a solution made of a quart of water and two tablespoons of apple cider vinegar. Repeat several times daily until all mold is eliminated.
  • 4. Use preventative medicine. Preventing the growth of mold in the first place is one of the greatest strategies to combat it. To treat your plant’s leaves and stems, use an organic fungicide or mix one tablespoon baking soda with one and a half tablespoons liquid dish soap in one gallon of water. Spray the mixture onto the plant liberally.

How can a sick palm tree be identified?

False Smut: Graphiola species are responsible for false smut, also known as Graphiola leaf spot. High humidity regions are where this illness is most prevalent. The only impacted palms are those in the Arecaceae family. This includes the sabal palmetto, jelly or pindo palm, Chinese fan palm, Chamaerops humilis, and Washington palm in South Carolina (Washingtonia robusta).

Small, black, wart-like entities protrude through both leaf surfaces of infected leaves. The black patches could sprout tiny filaments. The youngest leaves typically show no signs.

Palms should be properly spaced apart to provide for adequate air circulation and reduce humidity. When irrigating, avoid soaking the fronds. It will be less likely for the illness to spread if badly affected palm fronds are removed and destroyed. However, the palm may suffer more harm from excessive frond removal than the disease itself. Due to the sensitivity of palms to nutritional shortages, frond removal might exacerbate current issues and damage the tree.

Fungicides can be used as a prophylactic measure in the spring even if they are typically not necessary. Choose a copper-containing fungicide (see Table 1 for specific products). Copper fungicides are the only ones permitted for use on palms grown for food. All fungicides should be applied at rates and intervals specified on the label.

Ganoderma zonatum, a fungus that may infect a variety of palm species, is the source of the illness known as Ganoderma Root & Butt Rot. Older fronds begin to wither and droop as the first sign of illness. Fronds sag and droop in a straight line with the trunk. Stunted and pale green or yellow in color, new growth is. The infected palm’s head could come off or the trunk could collapse. The extent of the root degradation will depend on where the invasion began.

Although the tissues of the outer trunk may appear firm, the damaged palms have a hollow sound when tapped. When the trunk is dissected, areas of dark brown tissue are seen. Conks, the spore-producing structures of this fungus, may develop throughout time. Depending on the age of the tree and the location, palm death can take three to four years.

Prevention & Treatment: Since this fungus feeds on plant tissue, clear the landscape of any dead palm trees’ root systems, stumps, and trunks. Avoid damaging the tree in any way, especially when planting, staking, and doing regular lawnmower and string trimmer care. It is not advised to establish another palm tree in the same spot since ganoderma lives in the soil. This illness cannot be treated chemically.

Bud Rot: This condition may be brought on by a number of bacterial infections, Phytophthora species, Thielaviopsis species, and other fungal pathogens. While bud rot frequently follows tropical storms or extended periods of heavy rain, bacterial bud rot usually follows cold weather damage to the bud.

The signs of sickness are the same no matter the pathogen. Young leaves wilt and show black blemishes on buds and young fronds. There is a complete rot of the bud. Due to secondary invaders, this area may eventually turn slimy. Older fronds are the last to die and may stay green for several months. Eventually, all that is left is the trunk.

When at all possible, steer clear of overhead watering. Once infected, a plant is unlikely to recover. In order to stop the spread of illness, infected palms should generally be removed and destroyed right away.

On plants that have been exposed to the illness, preventative fungicides with copper can be employed (see Table 1 for specific products). Apply frequently enough to shield newly developing tissue. All fungicides should be applied at rates and intervals specified on the label.

How frequently should Parlor Palms be watered?

Here is a quick overview on what Parlor Palm plants require, along with some advice on how to maintain their health.

Can tolerate low indirect light and thrive in medium to bright indirect light. Unsuitable for direct, hot sunlight. Find out more about these lighting needs.

Water once every two to three weeks, letting the soil dry up in between applications. In brighter light, water more frequently, and in less-bright light, less frequently. Here are some further advice on watering plants.

65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer at home, up to 85 degrees. The Parlor Palm is comfy if you’re comfortable.

How much sun is required for a Parlor Palm?

Parlour palms can tolerate some shade but thrive in direct, strong light. Keep away from draughts and direct sunlight, which will scorch the leaves. Parlour palms require a warm environment, ideally between 18 and 24 °C, with a minimum of 10 °C.

How to plant a parlour palm

In a container with drainage holes, plant your parlour palm in a mixture of soil-based and peat-free multipurpose compost. Only repot parlour palms when they are rootbound (you can tell when this is the case because roots are emerging out of the pot’s bottom). Only repot in the spring, but into a little bigger pot. This may only need to be done every three years.

Caring for a parlour palm

In warm weather, this may happen rather frequently when the top few centimeters of compost have become dry. Make sure the compost is evenly moist but not drenched, and allow any extra moisture to drain away. Wintertime irrigation is reduced, keeping the soil slightly damp.

The leaf tips of parlour palms can turn brown in dry air, yet they can endure it. To avoid this, mist a few times per week.

any brown fronds at the base, remove them.

These occasionally die off, which is expected. Feed with a mild liquid fertilizer once every month in the spring and summer.

Periodically wipe the leaves to remove dust. Your plant can be quickly fixed by being placed under a gentle shower, or even better, by being placed outside during a summer downpour.

How to propagate a parlour palm

The best method of parlour palm propagation is through division. You might notice that a stem at the edge naturally breaks away when you repot the plant in the spring. A sharp knife can also be used to cut a stem or clump away. Ensure that some roots are present. Replant in a new container with potting compost.

If your plant has bloomed and produced fruits, you could try planting the seeds after letting the fruits dry out. You’ll need a heated propagator because they require a temperature of 27C to grow.

Growing parlour palm: problem solving

Parlour palms frequently have brown leaf tips. The very dry air is the main cause. Additionally, the plant might not have had enough water or it might be too chilly. Cutting into green growth will just result in the creation of new brown points, so only the brown tips should be removed.

Lower leaves that have aged naturally develop yellowing leaves. If your parlour palm has many yellow leaves, the plant may be receiving too much direct sunlight. The cause can potentially be under-watering.

Brown fronds at the base are typical; simply remove them. Brown leaves on a large scale may be a sign of overwatering because parlour palms dislike being in cold, damp compost.

Sunburn could be the source of brown patches. Remove your plant from the sun’s direct rays.

Lack of humidity may be the cause of dull, dull leaves that have lost their sheen. Misting is beneficial.

Areca palms may be harmed by red spider mite. Fine webbing will cover the plant’s leaves and stems, and the upper surface of the leaf will start to mottle. With a magnifying glass and close inspection, you may find mites and eggs on the undersides of the leaves. Improved airflow increases humidity. Use sprays with fatty acids or plant oils as an alternative.

Mealybugs could be an issue.

Watch out for insects on the undersides of leaves that resemble white, fluffy blobs. Use a cotton bud or moist towel dipped in a pesticide containing fatty acids or plant oils to wipe them off. Keep inspecting the leaves since mealybugs can be challenging to get rid of.

Scale insects, which are tiny, 6mm long, brown sap sucking insects, may also be seen. Remove using a cotton bud or piece of cloth dipped in a pesticide with fatty acids.