Planting lavender properly is the first step in successful cultivation. All varieties of lavender require full sun to grow well. Lavender is a native of the western Mediterranean region and can withstand up to six hours per day of direct sunlight. The Deep South and the Southwest are the exceptions, when any cover from the sweltering midday sun is welcome. By using a stone mulch or tucking lavender into planting areas next to surfaces that radiate heat, such as a stone wall, driveway, or south-facing building wall, you can increase the amount of heat that plants receive.
Plant lavender in the spring in Zones 3 to 7 after all threat of frost has passed. Plant at least eight weeks before the typical first frost date if you must do so in the fall. Lavender grows most quickly while it’s hot, so when it gets colder in the fall, it grows much more slowly. Lavender planted in the fall needs plenty of time to establish a strong root system to last the winter. Lavender can be planted in the spring or fall in zones 8 and higher.
Despite the fact that lavender may be grown indoors in a pot, this plant really prefers to be grown outside.
Soil Prep
You need soil that drains properly and is somewhat alkaline while planting lavender. Because damp soil frequently causes root rot in lavender plants, proper drainage is essential. Consider winter drainage as well in areas where lavender can withstand the winter. Lavender can be easily killed by winter-wetting soils.
By planting lavender on raised dirt mounds 12 to 24 inches tall, many gardeners improve drainage. This helps in circumstances where natural soil is clay that doesn’t drain well and offers the acute drainage that lavender requires. To improve drainage, incorporate sharp sand or tiny limestone fines into the soil.
Mix some crushed oyster shell or limestone gravel into planting holes to create alkaline soil. Even better, dig a planting hole that is a little deeper and fill the bottom two-thirds of the area with limestone gravel. This gives roots an alkaline environment and aids in improving drainage in heavy soils. To create an alkaline pH and hasten growth, some gardeners also incorporate lime, bone meal, and compost in planting holes. Using equal portions of those ingredients, aim for a final amount of around a half-cup.
Spacing and Planting
This is one enduring plant that struggles in crowded areas. Give lavender enough space to grow flowers when you plant it. Ideally, place plants as widely apart as possible based on how tall they become. For optimal growth, lavender requires excellent air circulation.
The majority of gardeners use lavender transplants as opposed to beginning from scratch. Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the plant’s roots when planting lavender transplants, then tuck the plant into the hole while packing earth tightly around it. Lavender should not be buried any deeper than it was in its nursery pot.
Lightly prune lavender plants after planting, eliminating all growth tips. The plant is induced to branch as a result. As new growth begins to develop, employ this method yearly. Water until plants begin to develop steadily.
Starting From Seed
The majority of lavender is grown from cuttings, which aids in producing plants with traits that are faithful to the original plant. Because of this, most gardeners use transplants rather than seeds when planting. Although it is challenging, starting from seed is not impossible.
Sow lavender seeds in a sterile seed starting mixture if you wish to try beginning it from seed. Seeds should hardly be covered because they require light to germinate. Although they can sprout in as little as 14 days, lavender seeds can take up to a month to grow. Place seed trays in a warm area to aid in germination; a temperature of 70 degrees is optimal. To get seeds ready for sprouting and to boost germination, some gardeners chill them in the fridge for 21 days in a tight plastic bag.
When seedlings have produced several sets of leaves, transplant them into 2-inch-wide containers. It could take one to three months for lavender to reach transplanting size due to its slow growth. Fungus is the main danger to lavender seeds and seedlings. While maintaining sufficient air circulation, keep the soil mixture moist to help prevent disease outbreaks. Lavender plants should be introduced to outside growing conditions when they are 3 inches tall.
Is lavender a houseplant or a garden plant?
Consider attempting to cultivate lavender indoors. Even though this lovely herb isn’t a common houseplant, with the appropriate care, you can manage to maintain its health. Lavender should often be grown outdoors. Growing lavender inside is best kept as a backup strategy for the winter months when plants can’t be outdoors, even in the coldest climates where it isn’t hardy.
Can a plant of lavender remain outside?
Although lavender blooms best outside, you may also keep these fragrant gems alive indoors all winter. Additionally, lavender’s fragrance not only adds beauty to a space but also promotes calmness. Here are some beautiful lavender species as well as some tips on how to winterize lavender.
Is Lavender a Perennial or Annual?
Lavender is a flower that prefers the sun and does best when planted outside. It is a fragrant and beautiful native to Europe and Western Asia. It is possible to cultivate lavender as a perennial or annual flower, depending on the variety you keep and where you grow it. Generally speaking, as long as you cultivate the appropriate variety of lavender for your region, you can keep lavender as a perennial plant outdoors if you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 5 or warmer.
Types of Lavender
The most widespread and hardy variety is English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). We cultivate a plant variety with deep purple flowers named “Hidcote.” Despite its name, this plant is not indigenous to England; rather, it originates from Europe’s balmy Mediterranean coast.
In Zones 5 and warmer, English lavender is hardy and may typically overwinter in the ground outside without any further care. We may spread a thin layer (1 to 2 inches) of straw or shredded leaves over them for additional cover in an open winter with no snow cover.
Fringed or French lavender (L. dentata) and Spanish lavender (L. stoechas) are considerably more delicatehardy outdoors, but only in Zone 8 and warmer. In colder climates, they must be brought indoors to survive the winter. The good news is that lavenders are generally compact plants that thrive in containers, making it quite simple to move them between indoors and outside.
Don’t use a pot that is too big when you are repotting them. Just an extra inch of dirt should be placed around the root ball. These plants won’t accept too much extra soil because it will merely stay damp. It’s not necessary for the soil to be rich either. The quick-draining conditions they require can be provided by mixing two parts potting soil with one part perlite or coarse sand. Before placing the bag of potting soil in the pots for the lavenders, add 1 teaspoon of lime to simulate the alkaline soil of the Mediterranean.
How to Overwinter Lavender Indoors & Outdoors
English lavender is winter-hardy to Zone 5 as previously noted, therefore a light coating of straw may be all that is required. Other than that, lavender shouldn’t require any additional maintenance outside. On the other hand, Spanish and French lavenders are only hardy to Zone 8 and must be taken indoors in colder climates.
The plants want to rest in the winter and won’t grow much, if at all. They essentially go into dormancy from September to April.
Follow these guidelines when your lavender is indoors throughout the winter:
- Watering: They require less water in the winter as well; give them a drink only after the top inch of soil feels dry. Overwatering causes the roots to rot, which ensures death.
- Lighting: Despite the fact that these plants won’t be actively growing, they nevertheless require a lot of light. If there isn’t a location available on a sunny, chilly windowsill, consider utilizing a grow lamp to complement the available light.
- Temperature: Lavenders need a chilly, but not drafty, winter climate; at night, the temperature can drop as low as 40°F (5°C), and during the day, it shouldn’t rise above 65°F (18°C). This means you should keep them away from heaters because they will dry them out and drafty windows because they can get too cold.
- Fertilizing: Even though the plants may seem a little dejected, wait until the spring to fertilize them. Unused nutrients may accumulate in the soil and becoming poisonous over time.
The fringed (French) lavender plant, Lavandula dentata, has exquisite toothed margins on its leaves.
Your plant may be dormant, but the leaf still has a beautiful scent, and it will fill the room as you brush against it. Its aroma’s calming, anti-depressant properties will serve as a nice reminder of summer and help you get through the upcoming long winter.
Wait to plant lavender outdoors once more in the spring until the last spring frost has passed and overnight lows are still above 50F (10C). Don’t forget to harden them off as well before exposing them to the sun’s heat and the chilly spring air!
How long is lavender good for outside?
When given the best care, lavender subshrubs can live for 10 to 15 years. Non-English lavenders won’t survive more than a year if left outside in cold climes owing to frost. French lavenders have a tendency to live substantially shorter lives than English lavenders, with 5 years being thought of as a long life.
If they are properly cared for, lavender plants can live for a very long time. Despite the fact that lavenders require little maintenance, it is still vital to mimic some of the growing conditions found in their native Mediterranean region. It should be emphasized, however, that lavender does not require a Mediterranean environment to thrive for a long time.
Continue reading to find out how simple it is to recreate the ideal circumstances for growing lavender so they can last and bloom for up to 15 years.
Does lavender require a lot of sunlight?
Light/Watering:
- Although afternoon shade may be appreciated in the hottest climes, lavenders require full sun.
- Once established, plants are fairly drought resistant, although they flower best if moisture is prevented from drying out.
pH and fertilizer/soil:
- Even in infertile soil, lavender grows well.
- Although plants may benefit from an occasional side dressing of compost, more feeding is not required.
- The soil must have excellent drainage because damp soils will kill plants, especially during the winter.
- If your soil’s pH is below 7.0, apply lime to get it closer to or slightly over neutral, which is optimum.
- Mulching with gravel is advantageous because it helps protect plant crowns from excessive moisture.
Pests/Diseases:
- Lavender’s leaves and flowers both have potent essential oils that deer and insect pests don’t like to consume.
- In humid climates, fungal issues could occur, but they could be avoided by giving your plants sufficient drainage and strong air circulation.
Lavenders are excellent as an accent plant in the garden where they go well with many perennials, such as Shasta Daisies, Hardy Geraniums, Roses, and Catmints (Calamintha) (Leucanthemum x superba).
Pruning: Because lavender is a woody subshrub, pruning methods should be appropriate.
- After new growth arises, prune in the spring.
- After flowering, plants can be sheared back and shaped, but do not cut low into old wood.
- Winterize plants without touching them.
- Trim back elder plants by a third every three years if they start to look unattractive.
Harvesting and Using Lavender: Just as the delicate small blooms start to open, the flower spikes release their strongest smell.
- Long stems should be cut and gathered in bunches; in warm weather, this will take four to five days.
- Spread out the stems on a screen or sheet to allow for easy airflow.
- The stems of dried or fresh flower spikes can be used in arrangements; the flowers can be removed and used in sachets and potpourri combinations.
Reflowering: A second flush of flowers may appear later in the season if old flower spikes are chopped off after the first bloom period.
Dividing/Transplanting:
- Plants that are younger and less woody are better at handling division.
- Early spring is a good time to transfer plants, but when you dig them up, leave plenty of dirt around their roots.
Calendar of Care
Ahead of Spring:
- Before pruning, wait until new growth emerges from the woody stems.
- Shape plants and remove deadwood.
- If necessary, divide or transplant.
- Compost should be applied to the sides of plants, away from the crowns.
- Check the pH of your soil, and if it’s acidic, adjust it to a pH of 6.5 to 7.5.
Midspring:
Mulch with gravel to protect plants as the earth heats.
Early Spring:
- After flowering is ended, cut back plants.
- If the weather is exceptionally dry, add to natural showers.
Summer:
- In places with high humidity, keep an eye out for fungal issues and take required action.
Fall:
- Stems should not be pruned.
- In harsh areas, softly cloak plants in evergreen boughs to thwart the drying effects of winter winds.
Can lavender be grown in pots?
What could be more hospitable in a foyer or doorway than a large pot of lavender in full bloom, warmly embracing all onlookers with its divine scent and gorgeous blossoms? The perennial lavender plant (Lavandula) has a long flowering season and is quite simple to grow. It is also very lovely.
Select the Right Lavender
- Since not all varieties of lavender are hardy, containers give you the chance to cultivate lavender that wouldn’t work well in your garden.
- Any lavender variety will flourish in a pot and can be pruned into ornamental balls and cones, but some are more appropriate than others. They blossom quickly and keep their size in pots reasonable.
How is lavender grown outside?
The Lamacieae family of mint plants contains the genus Lavender, which has 47 species and numerous varieties. The Latin verb lavare, which means “to wash,” is believed to be the source of the species name Lavandula, which likely refers to the plant’s use in soaps and fragrances. It is indigenous to temperate regions stretching from north Africa to southeast India, as well as from Cape Verde to the Mediterranean and the Levant. It has been used for millennia in cooking, as a medicine, and as a cosmetic. Similar to rosemary, lavender’s leaves and flower buds are abundant in fragrant oils. In Zones 5-8, the plant can be grown as a perennial; in colder areas, it can be grown as an annual. For advice on how to cultivate lavender from seed, continue reading below.
Timing If seeds can be collected in the fall and put on the top of a seed tray with bottom heat maintaining 4-10C, lavender germinates most evenly (40-50F). The seedlings are then overwintered in a cool, well-ventilated greenhouse or cold frame. Then, as needed, seedlings can be potted on.
The seeds can also be started indoors in the winter using sterilized seed starting mix and a few seeds in a few pots. After moistening the mixture, pressing the seeds into it, and placing the pots inside of plastic bags, you may freeze them for about a week. Allow them to warm up naturally to room temperature before using the bottom heat method described above.
Starting A plastic top or covering should not be used as this will keep the soil wetter than is necessary. Just barely cover the seed because it will germinate in warm soil in 14–21 days. Use of a plastic lid or covering will cause the soil’s surface to get overly wet. If irrigation is required, do so from below. Lower the temperature to 5-10C (40-50F) for two weeks, then raise it again if germination is poor after three to four weeks. The tiny seedlings can be potted up and continued to grow in a covered greenhouse or windowsill before being planted in the garden in the spring.
Growing Full sunlight and healthy, well-drained soil are preferred by lavender. In the spring, just as the new growth begins, prune plants severely, but never go into the woody part of the stems. This will cause the first leaves and bloom to grow quickly and evenly. Early in the fall, prune again, but avoid cutting into old wood.
Harvest When the blooms first open, gather them. Dry in tiny bunches or on exposed trays. Pick the leaves whenever you want to use them fresh, or before the flowers begin to bloom if you plan to dehydrate the leaves.