It is feasible to grow lavender indoors with the proper lighting and care.
Consider attempting to cultivate lavender indoors. Even though this lovely herb isn’t a common houseplant, with the appropriate care, you can manage to maintain its health. Lavender should often be grown outdoors. Growing lavender inside is best kept as a backup strategy for the winter months when plants can’t be outdoors, even in the coldest climates where it isn’t hardy.
Do lavender plants have to be inside?
Although lavender blooms best outside, you may also keep these fragrant gems alive indoors all winter. Additionally, lavender’s fragrance not only adds beauty to a space but also promotes calmness. Here are some beautiful lavender species as well as some tips on how to winterize lavender.
Is Lavender a Perennial or Annual?
Lavender is a flower that prefers the sun and does best when planted outside. It is a fragrant and beautiful native to Europe and Western Asia. It is possible to cultivate lavender as a perennial or annual flower, depending on the variety you keep and where you grow it. Generally speaking, as long as you cultivate the appropriate variety of lavender for your region, you can keep lavender as a perennial plant outdoors if you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 5 or warmer.
Types of Lavender
The most widespread and hardy variety is English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). We cultivate a plant variety with deep purple flowers named “Hidcote.” Despite its name, this plant is not indigenous to England; rather, it originates from Europe’s balmy Mediterranean coast.
In Zones 5 and warmer, English lavender is hardy and may typically overwinter in the ground outside without any further care. We may spread a thin layer (1 to 2 inches) of straw or shredded leaves over them for additional cover in an open winter with no snow cover.
Fringed or French lavender (L. dentata) and Spanish lavender (L. stoechas) are considerably more delicatehardy outdoors, but only in Zone 8 and warmer. In colder climates, they must be brought indoors to survive the winter. The good news is that lavenders are generally compact plants that thrive in containers, making it quite simple to move them between indoors and outside.
Don’t use a pot that is too big when you are repotting them. Just an extra inch of dirt should be placed around the root ball. These plants won’t accept too much extra soil because it will merely stay damp. It’s not necessary for the soil to be rich either. The quick-draining conditions they require can be provided by mixing two parts potting soil with one part perlite or coarse sand. Before placing the bag of potting soil in the pots for the lavenders, add 1 teaspoon of lime to simulate the alkaline soil of the Mediterranean.
How to Overwinter Lavender Indoors & Outdoors
English lavender is winter-hardy to Zone 5 as previously noted, therefore a light coating of straw may be all that is required. Other than that, lavender shouldn’t require any additional maintenance outside. On the other hand, Spanish and French lavenders are only hardy to Zone 8 and must be taken indoors in colder climates.
The plants want to rest in the winter and won’t grow much, if at all. They essentially go into dormancy from September to April.
Follow these guidelines when your lavender is indoors throughout the winter:
- Watering: They require less water in the winter as well; give them a drink only after the top inch of soil feels dry. Overwatering causes the roots to rot, which ensures death.
- Lighting: Despite the fact that these plants won’t be actively growing, they nevertheless require a lot of light. If there isn’t a location available on a sunny, chilly windowsill, consider utilizing a grow lamp to complement the available light.
- Temperature: Lavenders need a chilly, but not drafty, winter climate; at night, the temperature can drop as low as 40°F (5°C), and during the day, it shouldn’t rise above 65°F (18°C). This means you should keep them away from heaters because they will dry them out and drafty windows because they can get too cold.
- Fertilizing: Even though the plants may seem a little dejected, wait until the spring to fertilize them. Unused nutrients may accumulate in the soil and becoming poisonous over time.
The fringed (French) lavender plant, Lavandula dentata, has exquisite toothed margins on its leaves.
Your plant may be dormant, but the leaf still has a beautiful scent, and it will fill the room as you brush against it. Its aroma’s calming, anti-depressant properties will serve as a nice reminder of summer and help you get through the upcoming long winter.
Wait to plant lavender outdoors once more in the spring until the last spring frost has passed and overnight lows are still above 50F (10C). Don’t forget to harden them off as well before exposing them to the sun’s heat and the chilly spring air!
Is a lavender tree a houseplant or a garden plant?
Lavender trees can remain outside and rooted in the ground in zones 7 through 10. They must be taken indoors for the winter in cooler locations.
When planted in your garden, other varieties of lavender, such as English lavender, can reappear year after year.
Generally speaking, a lavender tree won’t grow much taller than 2-3 feet. However, if it is contained in a pot, it may seem a little bit higher. Depending on pruning and training, the width at the top can reach two feet.
Yes! Growing lavender indoors is definitely feasible if you follow a few easy care instructions and provide the correct lighting and temperature conditions.
Your lavender tree will probably live for a maximum of 4-5 years. By that time, their woody stems have typically become tired and hardened, making them leggier and harder to form.
Lavender plants benefit greatly from routine pruning. Without routine trimming, the plants’ woody stems may become lanky and stop blooming.
Lavender prefers full sun, sandy soil that drains well, and a slight alkaline mixture that you may add with a little lime.
If you choose to cultivate a lavender tree, I have a feeling you’ll be successful! I sincerely hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
Can you grow lavender indoors?
It’s not ideal to grow lavender indoors, but it is doable if you set up the right conditions, particularly if you’re only attempting to keep plants alive through the winter before moving them back outside when the weather warms in the spring.
Sunlight
The majority of indoor lavender plants don’t exhibit perfect growth, foliage color, or even vibrant blossoms. The issue is light—or the lack thereof. It is difficult to get enough sunshine in indoor surroundings. In the winter, this is particularly true in northern places.
Indoor lavender plants should be placed close to a sunny south-facing window. Use a small table or plant stand to position your plant in the sun since most plants won’t fit on a window ledge. You may also simulate the sun with additional light. There is enough light for development from standard fluorescent tubes positioned 6 to 12 inches over lavender. The T5 kind of high output fluorescent lighting is another option; it produces twice as much light as conventional tubes.
Containers
It’s critical to use the proper size container while growing lavender indoors. The rootball of the plant should only be one to two inches larger than the pot. There is extra dirt in a larger container, but it doesn’t have any roots to assist it absorb moisture. Where the roots of the lavender are located, that soil is prone to becoming waterlogged and becoming overly damp. Many indoor lavender plants perish as a result of root rot, which is the final outcome.
Soil
Since lavender is a Mediterranean plant, it prefers arid conditions. Add a thin layer of soilless mix specifically designed for containers on top of an inch or two of limestone gravel in the bottom of your pot. To give soil a more alkaline edge, mix in one tablespoon of lime. Blend ground, dried eggshells into the top layer of soil once a month to add lime.
Temperature
Although lavender like heat, growing it indoors will be more successful if it is placed away from drafts of hot or cold air, especially in the winter. Consider cultivating lavender indoors throughout the winter in a room that is colder than the rest of the house. Keep roots alive throughout the winter, but avoid forcing vigorous new growth.
Water
After planting, water your lavender, and then reduce the amount. Water only when the soil is dry to the touch and about one inch deep during the milder winter months. When growing lavender indoors, take into account using a terracotta pot. Root rot can be avoided by letting moisture evaporate through the porous clay pot sides.
Plant Type
For indoor use, use miniature lavender cultivars. They fit under a grow light and are better suited to growing in pots. The types of French lavender (Lavandula dentata) thrive well indoors. Although they are less fragrantly powerful than English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), they are more suited to indoor environments. Canary Island lavender (Lavandula canariensis) and fern leaf lavender (Lavandula multifida), which tolerates moist circumstances better than other lavenders, are other good varieties of lavender to grow inside.
Transitioning Outdoors
When there is no longer any risk of frost in the spring, bring lavender outside. Cut back any lanky growth that emerged throughout the winter. To encourage development, cover the soil with a layer of compost and water thoroughly.
Can lavender be grown in pots?
What could be more hospitable in a foyer or doorway than a large pot of lavender in full bloom, warmly embracing all onlookers with its divine scent and gorgeous blossoms? The perennial lavender plant (Lavandula) has a long flowering season and is quite simple to grow. It is also very lovely.
Select the Right Lavender
- Since not all varieties of lavender are hardy, containers give you the chance to cultivate lavender that wouldn’t work well in your garden.
- Any lavender variety will flourish in a pot and can be pruned into ornamental balls and cones, but some are more appropriate than others. They blossom quickly and keep their size in pots reasonable.
Does lavender require sun or shade?
Light/Watering:
- Although afternoon shade may be appreciated in the hottest climes, lavenders require full sun.
- Once established, plants are fairly drought resistant, although they flower best if moisture is prevented from drying out.
pH and fertilizer/soil:
- Even in infertile soil, lavender grows well.
- Although plants may benefit from an occasional side dressing of compost, more feeding is not required.
- The soil must have excellent drainage because damp soils will kill plants, especially during the winter.
- If your soil’s pH is below 7.0, apply lime to get it closer to or slightly over neutral, which is optimum.
- Mulching with gravel is advantageous because it helps protect plant crowns from excessive moisture.
Pests/Diseases:
- Lavender’s leaves and flowers both have potent essential oils that deer and insect pests don’t like to consume.
- In humid climates, fungal issues could occur, but they could be avoided by giving your plants sufficient drainage and strong air circulation.
Lavenders are excellent as an accent plant in the garden where they go well with many perennials, such as Shasta Daisies, Hardy Geraniums, Roses, and Catmints (Calamintha) (Leucanthemum x superba).
Pruning: Because lavender is a woody subshrub, pruning methods should be appropriate.
- After new growth arises, prune in the spring.
- After flowering, plants can be sheared back and shaped, but do not cut low into old wood.
- Winterize plants without touching them.
- Trim back elder plants by a third every three years if they start to look unattractive.
Harvesting and Using Lavender: Just as the delicate small blooms start to open, the flower spikes release their strongest smell.
- Long stems should be cut and gathered in bunches; in warm weather, this will take four to five days.
- Spread out the stems on a screen or sheet to allow for easy airflow.
- The stems of dried or fresh flower spikes can be used in arrangements; the flowers can be removed and used in sachets and potpourri combinations.
Reflowering: A second flush of flowers may appear later in the season if old flower spikes are chopped off after the first bloom period.
Dividing/Transplanting:
- Plants that are younger and less woody are better at handling division.
- Early spring is a good time to transfer plants, but when you dig them up, leave plenty of dirt around their roots.
Calendar of Care
Ahead of Spring:
- Before pruning, wait until new growth emerges from the woody stems.
- Shape plants and remove deadwood.
- If necessary, divide or transplant.
- Compost should be applied to the sides of plants, away from the crowns.
- Check the pH of your soil, and if it’s acidic, adjust it to a pH of 6.5 to 7.5.
Midspring:
Mulch with gravel to protect plants as the earth heats.
Early Spring:
- After flowering is ended, cut back plants.
- If the weather is exceptionally dry, add to natural showers.
Summer:
- In places with high humidity, keep an eye out for fungal issues and take required action.
Fall:
- Stems should not be pruned.
- In harsh areas, softly cloak plants in evergreen boughs to thwart the drying effects of winter winds.
How long do plants of lavender live?
Many gardeners in Sonoma County are delighted by the easy-to-grow lavender’s many wonderful attributes. It takes little water and is exceptionally deer resistant. Snakes avoid it. Butterflies and bees adore it. Flower wands fill any space with a wonderful, pleasant, fresh smell. A lovely seed product made from dried flower heads has been used for ages to freshen clothing and ward off insects. Even delicate meals and drinks can utilize it as a flavour.
Over 40 recognized variants of the three main forms of lavender exist. Lavender blooms may adorn gardens for months if a variety is planted.
The Spanish lavenders, Lavandula stoechas, and its several named cultivars are the first to bloom in the spring; ‘Otto Quast’ is a well-liked and frequently planted variety. These have the smallest, pineapple-shaped tufts, though not the most floriferous, and are crowned with upright, ornamental bracts in shades of purple, periwinkle, or even milky white. Spanish lavenders typically have a second or even third bloom cycle later in the summer when spent blooms are routinely deadheaded. Of all the lavenders, they can withstand droughts the best.
Lavandula angustifolia, commonly known as English lavender, is native to southern European hilly regions rather than England. It is the most resilient, but it only lasts for three to five years before needing to be replaced. Early summer brings forth blooms on thin flower spikes that are significantly more delicate and sweet-smelling than any of the Spanish lavenders. Named cultivars produce mounds between 11/2 and 2 feet tall and broad that are covered in flowers in hues of blue and purple, white, or pink. In order to keep a compact shape and to encourage some varieties to repeat bloom, faded blooms and stems can be sheared off. Popular cultivars with vibrant blue-purple flowers include “Hidcote,” “Munstead,” and “Jean Davis,” which have pinkish-white blossoms.
Lavandula x intermedia, also known as lavandins or English lavender hybrids, bloom for the longest from mid- to late summer. Depending on the cultivar, these grow rather shrub-like after a number of years in the ground, reaching heights and widths of 2-4 feet. The most popular among them are “Provence” and “Grosso,” which are renowned for their potent fragrances and suitability for harvesting, drying, and tying flower wands into bundles. The cosmetic business uses oil from “Grosso,” while many lavender products utilize oil from “Provence.” From a 1-gallon plant, both plants grow fairly quickly, but a 4-inch pot will grow to the same size in roughly a year. Regular pruning is necessary to keep the bottom stems from turning ugly woody on these hybrids.
The two most crucial conditions for planting lavender are choosing a location with at least six hours of direct sunlight each day and offering sufficient drainage. It dislikes wet environments. To promote soil aeration and allow roots to absorb nutrients without drowning, use compost and grittier materials like lava rock or perlite thoroughly mixed with the soil.
To prevent rain from puddling if the soil is dense or compacted, it is advisable to build a little berm or mound for each plant. Lavenders should last for five to seven years if they are properly sited and pruned. Although lavender can tolerate some drought, it needs enough rain to grow all season. After planting, it is very important to watch out that the soil doesn’t dry out around the rootball.
Lavenders can be pruned more severely in the late fall but never to bare wood. On lower stems, look for little green buds and make a cut right above them. In this manner, plants are pruned annually or more frequently to maintain their dense, green branching. As long as there are buds, some can even be clipped almost to the ground.