When kept cold (away from heaters and out of direct sunlight), cyclamen are rather simple and dependable indoor plants that maintain their appearance for around eight weeks. They may continue to bloom until April if temperatures are cool enough, but too much heat in a sunny window will favor early dormancy. I keep mine on the east and north window ledges, bringing them out onto our main dining table when I want them to be more noticeable but tucking them back in between times. Although it may be tempting to just buy and plant your indoor cyclamen, they are worth the extra work. It makes a big difference to plant them in a vibrantly colored bowl or something glittery and sparkly, but be sure to use an inner pot with drainage holes.
Try not to disrupt the roots during repotting. They need good drainage and do not like to sit in moist soil, so plant them in a loam-based compost with some additional grit and peat.
Cover the compost with dried leaves or an emerald-green cushion of bun moss, and then gently press the roots into the new pot or bowl. In order to mimic this as precisely as possible with houseplants, that is how they would appear in the wild.
The flowers can be spread out starting from the base because they have a tendency to clump together, but when they are softly and equally separated between the leaves, they appear lighter and more graceful.
planting cyclamen outdoors
Cyclamen coum has a very long lifespan and can grow successfully without much attention in unfavorable conditions. Since C. coum begin to grow below ground long before they breach the surface, they want some summer wetness, thus they thrive in humus-rich soil with lots of naturally occurring or intentionally added leaf mould.
Plants with Cyclamen hederifolium are more hardy and resilient. They won’t mind if you tuck them right beneath a hedge or in between the roots of a large beech or oak tree. Instead of taking over more opulent objects’ spaces, they accept the meagerst of food instead, tolerating dry, thin soil as long as there is some shade.
The planting depth for these hardy cyclamen should be 2.5 cm (1 in) below the soil surface, but as they grow, they occasionally push one hip out of the ground.
All cyclamen do considerably better in moist, thriving soil than in dry soil, so a plant that is actively growing in a pot is probably going to do best.
When planting tubers, place them with the flattest side facing down and the slightly concave side facing up, 2.5 cm (1 in) deep, and 5-8 cm (2-3 in) apart.
How long do potted Cyclamen last?
Cyclamen is an easy-to-grow indoor plant that blooms for at least eight weeks. With careful care, it could thrive for many years. A well-cared-for Cyclamen can actually keep growing and blooming for up to 100 years! (Like the Christmas cactus, another wintertime favorite that blooms every year.)
Is there a difference between indoor and outdoor Cyclamen?
Most garden centers sell florist’s cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) in moderate locations without frost, with no distinction made between indoor and outdoor species. Florist’s Cyclamen behaves the same whether it is planted as an indoor plant or an outdoor perennial, therefore there is no need to in that kind of habitat.
However, in other areas you’ll probably be able to get both florist’s Cyclamen and hardy Cyclamen (Cyclamen hederifolium). This frost-tolerant Cyclamen is the kind you want to use to fill a garden bed because hardy Cyclamen may be cultivated outside in lower climes.
Is Cyclamen toxic to cats and dogs?
Sadly, yes, according to the ASPCA. Due to the presence of triterpenoid saponins, particularly in the tuber, cyclamen are hazardous to both people and animals. This substance is an antifungal that the plant needs to stay healthy, but it’s also incredibly irritating and can paralyze or cause convulsions.
It seems unlikely that Cyclamen will be consumed in significant amounts (the flavor is reportedly not particularly pleasant!) but is potentially harmful, so keep dogs and children away from this one.
Is a cyclamen an outdoor plant?
Growing resilient cyclamen outdoors is simple as long as you follow a few general criteria. It is challenging to grow hardy cyclamen from seeds, but you can plant bulbs or tubers in the late summer or early fall. Plant the tubers with their tops just below the soil’s surface. Allow 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.) between each tuber.
Hardy cyclamen can withstand cold temperatures and icy winters, in contrast to florist’s cyclamen, which only thrives outdoors in warm areas. Where summers are hot and dry, this cool climate plant can’t live.
In practically any kind of loose, well-drained soil, hardy cyclamen can flourish. Before planting, add a few inches (8 cm) of mulch, compost, or other organic matter to the soil, especially if it is clay- or sandy-based.
Can you grow indoor cyclamen outside?
A cyclamen plant will often finish its first flowering cycle around March or nearby (during when you probably bought it). You have two options at this point: compost it or attempt one of a few ways to keep it alive. Try planting cyclamen in a greenhouse, where the glass will give cooler nights, even though they probably won’t appreciate being summer indoor plants. They can also be left outside in the late spring and early summer before being brought back inside, where they might blossom once more.
How is an indoor cyclamen plant cared for?
To thrive, your cyclamen needs a cool, sunny location. Keep away from direct sunlight. Maintaining a moist soil environment without overwatering is a typical approach to kill cyclamen. You must let your plant lie dormant over the summer and use less water if you want it to bloom again in the fall.
My cyclamen can I leave outside?
The Persian cyclamen, Cyclamen persicum, has evolved from the original botanical species to be more resilient, to have more flowers, and to have a wider range of colors. Pure white, pinks, deep magenta, crimson, stripes, and picotee edges are among the color options. There are about 20 different species, and they were originally from the Mediterranean and the Middle East. The earliest hybrids, which resulted in a plant that was considerably stronger and more floriferous, were developed in France in the 19th century, where they are believed to have been introduced in the late 16th century. They represent truthfulness in the floral lingo. When there isn’t much else blooming in the autumn/winter garden, they offer a pleasant splash of color and smell. They can be utilized both inside and outside, and they can also be used as cut flowers.
They can be inserted into the ground or used in hanging baskets and other containers. Since they dislike wind and rain, they would benefit from a protected location with dry soil and dappled shade. They are relatively resistant and can withstand frost as low as -3 to -4C. (2426F). Incorporating some grit before planting would be a good idea because they require an open, free-draining soil because they rot if left to sit in wet soil. Use high-quality, peat-free compost combined with Perlite when planting in hanging baskets or other pots to help with drainage. As they will require feeding throughout the growth season, add some slow release fertilizer to the mixture or the planting hole if you are planting in the ground. They require a robust air flow since rain on the leaves must dry as quickly as possible to prevent decay. As soon as the flowers begin to fade, dead head; twist and pull the stem all the way down to the corm; any stem left attached to the corm will rot, which may cause the corm to rot as well.
They require a cold environment that is shielded from the sun. Keep it dry; if it starts to wilt a little, don’t worry; as soon as you water it, it will come back to life. There are various methods for watering them: Water the pot’s perimeter with a long-necked watering can, avoiding the corm in the center; stand the pot in a saucer of water for 10 minutes, discarding any extra water; or, if the plant is beginning to wilt, submerge the pot to the rim in a bucket of water for a few seconds.
They must be fertilized with a balanced liquid fertilizer once a week if slow release fertilizer is not mixed into the compost. Feed over the summer until the leaves begin to turn yellow. If the earth is completely dry, don’t feed. For indoor plants, slow release plant sticks are offered to prevent overfeeding.
If the flowers begin to lose their color, move to a position with more sunlight and feed them as described above.
It is excessively warm and damp when the leaves become yellow during the flowering season, which should not be confused with the normal yellowing of the plant dying off. Remove the yellow leaves, allow it to totally dry out, and move to a cool location.
If the flower stems are brittle, it’s too damp and starting to decay; stop watering it until it’s completely dry.
Flowering again next year
Feed and water until early summer, when the blooms have completed blooming and the leaves have turned yellow. Repot the corm in September, leaving the top third of the corm above the soil, after letting it dry out. After the leaves have sprouted, begin watering gently and feed the plant.
Can cyclamen be grown indoors?
Cyclamen persicum, usually referred to as Persian or florist’s cyclamen, is frequently cultivated as potted color and placed into attractive pots or baskets for inside decorating. However, they also thrive in sheltered outdoor spaces like balconies and patios.
How to grow cyclamen indoors
Cyclamen prefer lots of natural light and are typically cultivated indoors in pots. Place in a well-lit, cool but draught-free area, preferably with a few hours of morning sunlight but not direct sunlight. Plants on patios, decks, and verandas are also covered by this.
Since they are susceptible to rot, the goal is to moisten the soil rather than the flowers or leaves. You can either gently water with a long-spout watering can or, if necessary, set the pot on a saucer and allow it soak up the water from the base. Avoid overwatering them because they frequently3 gain from a little dry period.
Take your indoor cyclamen outside at night to a well-ventilated area because the plants don’t enjoy it when their environment is hot and stuffy.
The majority of species go dormant in the summer. Move your potted plants outside to a shaded area of the garden with the pots turned on their sides to prevent rot if you want to keep them for the following year. You can replant them into fresh pots as they begin to display signs of new growth in the late summer.
Cyclamen don’t need much food, but if you want to extend the length of their flowering season, give them an occasional feed with a soluble fertilizer like Thrive Flower & Fruit.
How to grow cyclamen outdoors
Cyclamen hederifolium, a smaller species of 6 cyclamen that grows naturally in regions of Europe and the Mediterranean, can be grown outdoors.
Plant them beneath deciduous trees so they can benefit from the summer shade and the winter sun. In the summer, they also look fantastic in rockeries with some overhead cover. With enough summer watering, they can withstand heat and frost. The foliage is marbled and striped, and the flowers are pink, lilac, or white.
Plant cyclamen hederifolium in the shade of deciduous trees for a stunning seasonal color splash because they are forest floor plants. Cyclamen flowers really nod, but as they grow, the petals spread out and upward. Some vendors provide two-tone blossoms, such as these.
What can go wrong
When kept in humid environments, cyclamen are vulnerable to botrytis, commonly known as grey mold, which can affect indoor plants. To prevent it, spray with a fungicide and remove dead leaves and flowers. water with caution (see How to grow cyclamen indoors, page 40).
Spray an insecticide that kills both insects and mites if you see puckering or curling leaves, which could be a symptom of mites.
The wasted flower heads, yellowed leaves, and coiling stems from your plant can all be removed once it has stopped flowering. To avoid damaging the core, be cautious when removing the stem by gently pinching and twisting.
Where do cyclamen flowers thrive?
Hardy cyclamen species and cultivars are excellent for planting alongside other early-flowering woodland plants like snowdrops, winter aconites, and primroses in shaded borders, under trees, and on banks.
Can cyclamen be grown in pots?
There are numerous types of cyclamen, and each has slightly distinct growing circumstances. However, cultivating cyclamen in containers is typically simple and fruitful.
Potted cyclamen plants demand a growth medium that drains well and ideally has compost mixed in. They require relatively little fertilizer because they are not heavy feeders.
A cyclamen tuber should be planted in a pot that leaves about an inch (2.5 cm) of room all the way around it. Place the tuber on top of the growing media and sprinkle it with grit to cover it completely. If they have enough room, multiple tubers can be planted in the same container.
The ideal temperatures for potted cyclamen plants are in the 50s F (10 C) at night and the 60s F (15 C) during the day. They will thrive in bright indirect sunshine.
Do cyclamen bloom each year?
A perennial tuberous plant is cyclamen. It can be sown in the ground and will reappear every year in warmer climes (Zones 6-9). It could be a good idea to apply an additional layer of mulch to Zone 6’s cooler regions to shield plants from the winter’s extreme temperatures. Cyclamen can be grown outdoors in pots or directly in the ground in colder climates like Zone 5 and North, but the pots or tubers need to be taken inside in the fall. Otherwise, the plant will perish from the cold. It can be treated as a houseplant if brought within during the winter and then moved outside in the spring.
What is the lifespan of cyclamen flowers?
A vibrant florist plant called cyclamen is typically offered for sale throughout the winter. One of the 23 species in the genus Cyclamen, Cyclamen persicum, contains several intra-specific hybrids. The alpine forests in portions of southern Europe, western Asia, and north Africa close to the Mediterranean are home to these plants in the Primulaceae family.
In order to improve flower size, widen the color spectrum, and alter petal form, numerous cultivars have been developed from the species, particularly in England, Germany, and the Netherlands. These cultivars are currently mass-produced as container plants from hybrid seed. Since C. persicum is a delicate plant that cannot withstand frost and only blooms in the winter, it is typically grown as a houseplant. Choose a cyclamen plant that has several buds that are just beginning to open and strong, succulent leaves. The leaves are spherical or heart-shaped and either dark green or speckled with silver or white. The underside of the leaves may be purple on some varieties, or the margins may be somewhat serrated or lobed. The eye-catching 1 to 5 inch leaves grow into an 8 inch tall mound.
It can take cyclamen three months to bloom. Many people believe the flowers, which are hung above the lovely foliage on slender stalks, like butterflies in flight.
The base of the flower has a small tube connecting the five reflexed (curved back) and twisted petals. Pure white through all shades of pink, lavender, and crimson are the colors of flowers. There are cultivars that produce double flowers as well as those with petals that are striped, ruffled, or have a thin white edge (picotee). Some micro varieties that have tiny flowers but regular-sized leaves have a faint smell.
Cyclamen are quite simple to grow, but it may be challenging to provide the ideal environment for them to rebloom. The cyclamen from the florist is frequently used as a transient, short-lived indoor plant.
This plant, which is adapted to a Mediterranean environment, begins to develop in the autumn, blooms in the winter or early spring (during the wet season), and then goes dormant for the entire summer (during the hot, dry season).
Cyclamen require chilly temperatures and appreciate bright indirect light. A cyclamen is frequently best kept in an east window, while in Wisconsin winters, a southern exposure might be preferable. Although today’s hybrids may be maintained over a broader temperature range after purchase with good performance, ideal daytime temps are 60-65oF and ideal nighttime temperatures are approximately 50oF. If the plants can be kept colder, both the flowering season and the individual blooms will last longer. Remove any wasted blossoms by twisting the stem and pulling firmly to extract it neatly away from the base in order to promote continued flowering.
To continue flowering, these plants also require moist soil and sufficient humidity. When the soil appears and feels dry on the surface, cyclamen has to be thoroughly watered. The plant’s center or crown shouldn’t be watered since if they are left too moist, they could decay. Many prefer to bottom-water or to submerge the pot for 15 minutes. Before you rewater the soil, let it almost completely dry out. When plants are maintained either too wet or too dry, their leaves turn yellow (although this and bud blasting or aborting may also be caused by hot, dry conditions or insufficient light, too). If the foliage appears mushy, the plant likely needs watering. The foliage should remain strong and upright. Keep the plants away from heated drafts and place the pot on a tray of damp gravel to add more humidity. Although cyclamens do require fertilizer, too much of it will encourage lush growth that is more prone to disease. When in active growth, fertilize blooming plants every two weeks with a low-nitrogen fertilizer or houseplant food.
From a tuberous base, the leaves and flowers of the cyclamen grow in a rosette. The tubers can expand to a diameter of 6 inches when planted in pots. The plants enter a two- to three-month dormant period in late spring after they stop blooming. Their leaves start to dwindle and fall off at this time. At this time, cut back on the fertilizer and watering. You can relocate your dormant cyclamen outside for the summer, but make sure to return it inside before the first frost and avoid letting it stay wet when leafless. Alternately, after the blooms have finished flowering, gently cut back on the water. Remove the tuber from the soil once the leaves have wilted and store it in dry vermiculite at a temperature of 50°F for six to twelve weeks. Repot the tuber in a soil mixture that drains properly after this summer’s dormancy. The tuber should be positioned with the top half above the surface. When the tuber begins to produce new leaves, start watering it again, and continue fertilizing it until flower buds appear.
Cyclamen are generally free of pests, but they occasionally succumb to aphid, mealybug, spider mite, or thrip attacks. Pesticides labelled for use on houseplants or insecticidal soap can be used to control them. Cyclamen mite infestations are best removed from plants because this pest is very challenging to manage. University of Wisconsin-Madison student Susan Mahr