How To Transition Outdoor Plants Indoors

  • your plants in water. Put your plants, planter and all, in a bucket with a solution of insecticidal soap and water (1 tsp of soap per liter of water, or follow the instructions on the container) for around 15-20 minutes. This method of de-bugging plants also has the added benefit of providing plants with a thorough watering. To keep your plants clean when you pull them out, skim debris off the surface of the water while they are submerged beneath you. Take them out, rinse them out, and thoroughly clean the planter once they have finished soaking. Before bringing them inside, spread out some towels and let them absorb any extra moisture. Before watering them once more, make sure the soil is fully dry.

Since your plants will receive far more light outside than they will indoors, it’s crucial to gradually acclimate your houseplants to lower light levels in order to prevent transplant shock.

  • Your plants need to adjust. Start by relocating your plants to more and more shady locations each day over the course of a few days, and then bring them inside. The more time you give them, the better; somewhere between 5 days and 2 weeks is advised. After being relocated, they could drop a few leaves at first, but they’ll quickly get used to their new surroundings!
  • Trim a little bit. You may foster new growth that will be more adapted to life inside by pruning your plants when you move them inside. This will also assist limit their size.
  • The period is ideal for re-potting. If you discover that one of your houseplants is rootbound while de-bugging it, this is an excellent moment to upgrade it to a new container. Or, you might need to pot a plant for the first time if you’re trying to bring one in that was previously planted outside. In that scenario, remove the garden soil from the roots and entirely replace it with potting soil. Find out more by reading our repotting guide!
  • Hold them apart. You may want to keep your plants separate from any other houseplants you may have for a few weeks after bringing them inside so you have time to monitor and ensure your de-bugging efforts were successful. It’s simpler to treat just your recently relocated plants rather than all of them if you missed any pests.

Once your plants are secure inside, keep in mind that the manner you take care of them will alter depending on the season. Consider plants in the winter as being on the verge of hibernation since their growth will be drastically slowed down due to reduced light and less thirst. Additionally, you typically won’t need to fertilize! Before watering, make sure the soil is at least two down and dry to the touch. For more details, read our watering essentials guide and our watering in the Wally Eco guide.

Your plant babies are now indoors for the winter, where you may enjoy their leaves and preserve them for the next year.

Can plants from the outdoors be brought inside?

The first step in successfully overwintering plants indoors is selecting the correct kind of plant. Contrary to common assumption, not all plants can live (or, at the very least, not all plants can thrive) under indoor growing conditions, particularly if your home has insufficient light, temperature, or humidity. Since there are probably fewer sunny spots inside your home than outside, you’ll need to decide which plants are worth preserving for the season and whether you can provide them with the care they need within.

While it may be appealing, it is not possible to bring all outside plants home for the winter. Before choosing which plants to bring indoors, go through the following checklist and bring the ones that adhere to the requirements.

  • only maintain healthy plants. Even in ideal circumstances, a plant that has been struggling all summer is unlikely to thrive indoors. It’s time to accept reality and consign it to the plant cemetery for eternal rest (also known as the compost bin or trash).
  • You should never bring a sick or pest-infested plant indoors. Even if you take great care to quarantine the problematic plant until it is nursed back to health, there is no guarantee that you won’t transfer the problem to your other plants. Problems spread more quickly among indoor plants than in the outdoor garden. The absence of natural insect predators in the home also creates the perfect environment for infestations to take place. Before bringing any plants indoors, give them a thorough inspection for any signs of issues.
  • Your favorite plants should come first. Give preference to any varieties that you have already put a lot of time and effort into, such as the ferns you’ve been nurturing for years, anything you’ve trained into a standard, and sentimental favorites when choosing which plants to bring indoors for the season (assuming you have limited space). Of course, if you have the space, costly indulgences are also worthwhile.
  • Bring the plant inside if it would look fine there. A variety of blooming plants, including geraniums, fuchsias, begonias, and even passion flowers, may be grown successfully in many homes and blossom wonderfully indoors. Even while they might not appear as rich or vivid as they would in the natural environment, it’s still pleasant to have flowers blossoming in the winter. In the spring, the plants will be ready to begin blooming in their natural habitat once more.
  • Think about giving particular foods, like baby pepper or tomato plants, top priority. They are essentially tropical perennials, and if they get enough sunlight, they’ll keep producing fruit all winter long. You’ll succeed producing small patio types because some vegetable varieties might require a very huge pot. The easiest and highest yielding vegetables to grow are cherry tomatoes and small-fruited peppers like chilies. Remember that there are no insects or pleasant breezes inside, so you will need to manually pollinate your plants.

How should plants be disinfected before being brought inside?

During the winter, houseplants are more susceptible to pests because they are in a dormant period where development is slower and new growth is weaker than usual. To prevent your plants from being taken over, it’s crucial to act quickly and start debugging your indoor plants as soon as you identify a problem. Here are some tried-and-true methods for sanitizing plants as well as advice on how to stop pests from wreaking havoc on your priceless collection of indoor plants.

Inspect Your Houseplants Regularly

Even though it can seem a little obvious, it’s crucial to check every inch of a houseplant for pests. Sticky leaves, yellow patches, chomp marks, fine webbing, and, well, live bugs, are just a few of the unmistakable indicators. However, some of those bugs are really tiny, and if you don’t keep a close check on them, a little group of them can quickly grow into a large mob. It’s much simpler to remove a few critters from a single houseplant than it is to remove swarms from all of your houseplants.

Always examine a houseplant’s undersides when examining it. Pests like to hide here, and it’s a secure place for them to lay their eggs (ew). Pick up a magnifying glass if your vision isn’t perfect 20/20 so you can take a closer look. Check the soil as well because some insects like to congregate around the soil’s surface and play havoc with the roots of your plants. You need to maintain a close eye on your plant’s roots because they are the most vulnerable and crucial component to safeguard.

Spray Insecticidal Soap

For obvious reasons, we strongly oppose the use of harsh chemical insecticides. They end up endangering populations of beneficial insects like ladybugs, butterflies, and bees when applied outdoors. When used indoors, you put your family, your pets, and yourself at risk from harmful substances. There are significant drawbacks regardless of how you use them. Alternately, you may efficiently troubleshoot houseplants without using any harmful chemicals or carcinogens by using an all-natural pest control approach. Both the earth and you are safer!

Insecticidal soap is the solution if you’re wondering how to debug plants before bringing them inside. It’s among the simplest methods for both indoor and outdoor garden plants to be debugged. While a small amount of mild dish soap diluted with water can be effective, we prefer to use castille soap because it is all-natural and less abrasive on more sensitive houseplants. Simply dispense some soap into a spray bottle with water, shake it up, and mist your plant leaves all over, paying particular attention to the undersides. By using this method, you may quickly and easily rid your indoor plants of the majority of common garden pests with little risk of injury. After you’ve sprayed down your houseplants, be sure to move them into an area with sufficient air circulation since mildew could develop if the moisture remains in the foliage rather than evaporating.

Use Neem Oil

This all-natural, organic pesticide, which is derived from the neem tree, works amazingly well for debugging either diluted with water or purchased as a pre-mixed spray. You won’t need much because it is fairly powerful. It has a powerful punch, killing insects if they eat it, repelling them with its garlicky smell, messing with their hormone systems so they can’t reproduce. A neem oil solution will be very helpful if you have any plants that are prone to powdery mildew, such as flowering dogwood trees, as it is not only excellent for debugging but also a natural fungicide.

Try Pyrethrum Spray

Don’t be misled by the product’s name; although seeming like a strange chemical spray, it is actually a natural substance derived from the chrysanthemum flower. Because it interferes with insects’ nerve systems and paralyzes them nearly instantly upon touch, it’s excellent for debugging. Although it is natural, we advise against using it to debug indoor houseplants because it may endanger helpful insects like ladybugs and bees. You don’t need to exert too much effort because it’s fairly potent. It is intended to be applied locally.

Wipe Leaves With An Alcohol Solution

Give your houseplant a good wipe-down with an alcohol wipe to successfully debug it if it has larger, thicker leaves that aren’t too delicate. It should only require a small amount of isopropyl alcohol in water; you don’t want it to be overly concentrated because alcohol has a drying impact (as anyone who has woken up with an unquenchable thirst after a night of shenanigans can attest). The solution is excellent for removing dust accumulation and disinfecting to help prevent fungus.

Suck Up Flying Insects With The Vacuum

Gnats and other flying insects can be quickly removed from the windowsill where you keep your indoor plants by sucking them out of the air with the vacuum. But kindly take care not to get a piece of your houseplant stuck in the vacuum nozzle. What a catastrophe that would be.

Repel Houseplant Bugs With Garlic

The vampires of the plant world, insects prefer to hang out in shadowy areas and feed on the sap of leaves in typical Dracula fashion. It turns out that they also detest garlic, which gives them another thing in common with those frightening guys. Press one or two peeled garlic cloves into the soil of your indoor plants. This will assist in warding off vampires as well as bugs. Never err on the side of caution! Pull out the garlic cloves, trim the stems, and push them back into the pot if they begin to sprout green or grow.

Come see us at Salisbury and we’ll assist you solve your pest problem if you’ve found any nasty things lurking out in your houseplants and you need to debug them ASAP. You can forgo the nasty chemicals and choose an eco-friendly option that you can use within your home because we have plenty of instruments and natural, organic solutions for troubleshooting.

Before bringing plants within, what should you sprinkle on them outside?

Unless your plants are enormous, the methods above should answer the majority of your queries regarding how to debug them before bringing them inside for the winter. This summer, the lovely Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig) I have just burst into bloom. It is really lovely. I need a troubleshooting method other than soaking for this plant and my amazingly enormous yucca cane. Thus, this is what I do.

Step 1: Spray neem oil

I begin by using a neem oil spray to cover all of the plant’s visible surfaces. Make an effort to thoroughly explore the edges, nooks, and crevices. I honestly have no fear of going too far. My plants were drenched. Then, as you work on soaking some of your smaller plants, let that sit for around 15 minutes.

Step 2: Flush out soil

Start watering the plant with your hose after squirting a small amount of your mild soak around the surface of the soil. This will combine the soap and water. Make that the ground is completely saturated. I went through this twice.

After that, repeatedly spray the plant from above with a pail of soapy water after filling it. Neem oil will be removed (down into the earth) and the leaves will receive a thorough watering.

Step 3: Rinse and let drain

After dousing my plants in soapy water, I put the hose on the shower setting to thoroughly bathe them in regular water. I then spread them out in a sunny area to allow the foliage to completely drain and dry off.

I brought the plants inside and placed them where I wanted them a few hours later. If necessary, don’t forget to include a saucer for drainage. Because they (mostly) blend in, I prefer the inexpensive plastic ones from the home improvement store.

For this plant, I believe I will make a small stand. I adore this room, and I believe there is enough light to keep it content. But I believe it needs only a little boost to feel less congested.

I have plants outside; when should I bring them inside?

It’s time to bring many of your outdoor plants inside when frost is forecast. Only indoors will many delicate annuals, bulbs, herbs, and tropical plants make it through the winter. Here are some tips on which plants to bring indoors this fall and how to prepare potted plants for the winter.

When to Bring Plants Inside

True annuals and plants that we cultivate as annuals (which are regarded as sensitive perennials in southern regions) are unable to withstand the chilly winter months. But you don’t have to say goodbye to these plants forever! Even delicate plants that require a winter dormant period can be brought inside as “annuals” in many cases. Ideally, these should be brought inside before the temperature drops below 45 degrees at night (7C). Start bringing the plants inside for the winter when October approaches and nighttime lows dip approximately 50F (10C).

At temperatures below 40F (4C), and for some tropical plants even below 50, harm is likely to occur. To acclimatize them, you must take action well before any actual frost or ice.

Where to Put Plants

I still struggle to find space for everything, despite the fact that the greenhouse we have attached to the house receives plenty of sunlight and never gets colder than 45F. For my benefit, a lot of these plants would experience a dry season in their natural habitat and don’t mind resting under a bench. Particularly when the pots are large, the greenhouse quickly fills up.

Consider making a shelf or area where you may put plants that require high humidity together if you don’t have a greenhouse but have a lot of them. While some people mist their indoor plants, this only has a temporary beneficial effect. Putting a pebble tray under your plants is a better long-term solution. After adding a layer of gravel and lining the trays with waterproof material, add the pots on top. Do not dry out the gravel. You might want to install some ceiling hooks if you have hanging plants. Cleaning your windows both inside and outside will help ensure that plants receive enough light this winter.

Which Plants To Bring Inside

You might need to decide what should be brought inside and what should be kept outside. Which flora stand out to you? Which ones cost the most to replace? Additionally, only keep healthy plants; throw away those that have disease or pest issues. Additionally, the lighting in your home is crucial. Even a west or south facing glassed area in winter only has the summer shaded area’s winter light intensity.

Plants that can be carried indoors can be divided into two categories:

  • plants that need a time of winter hibernation.
  • plants that can continue to thrive while dormant during the winter.

Some delicate bulbs need to spend some time “dormant” in a chilly environment where the temperature is still far above freezing. Numerous of these pricey bulbs are worth overwintering. Tender bulbs include, for instance:

  • Caladiums
  • A calla lily
  • Cannas
  • Dahlias
  • Animal ears
  • Gladiolus
  • tubes of roses

Simply stop watering fragile bulbs in pots, remove the withering leaves, and tuck them away in a dark, cool place. Periodically check the soil moisture.

Dig up and trim back the leaves of fragile underground bulbs. By hand, remove as much dirt as you can from the bulb. For 7 to 14 days, leave them in a warm, dry location to dry. This gets rid of extra moisture. Separate them with shredded newspaper or dry peat moss and place them loosely in a cardboard box or open container. Get cozy somewhere chilly and gloomy. To get a head start on the season, pot them up in the spring about a month before you intend to set them outside.