Excellent and resilient plants, cacti are rarely troubled by numerous problems. However, cactus may also cause you some problems. One of the problems is a cactus that is falling over or drooping. You can discover the causes of your cactus drooping or toppling over in this essay, along with solutions.
Weak roots or being potted in a container that is too big for the plant are a couple of the main causes of a cactus drooping or toppling over. Other causes might include bugs, lack of sunlight, underwatering, and more.
How can a sagging cactus be fixed?
Growing cacti outside or indoors can add aesthetic interest and a sense of a harsh, arid landscape. Though many cacti thrive when planted in the ground in a suitable climate, cactus grown in containers may start to wilt as a warning that they are either getting too much or not enough water. Fortunately, you may revive a fading cactus by altering your watering routine and soil.
Step 1
Check for moisture by feeling the dirt at the cactus’ base. If the soil is fine and dry, the problem may be with the amount or frequency of watering. Advance to Step 2 now.
If the soil is excessively moist, the wilting is due to too much water, and procedures 3 to 5 must be taken.
Step 2
For every 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter of the pot your cactus is in, or 1/2 cup, of dry soil should be watered. For example, an 8-inch (20 cm) pot would require a cup of water. From spring to fall, supply this much water on a weekly basis; however, during the winter, only provide this much water every two to three weeks.
Step 3
Remove the cactus gently from the moist soil container, knocking off any extra dirt to reveal the roots. Check to see if the plant roots are still white and solid or if they have gone brown and mushy. Use a clean knife to remove any undesirable, mushy roots.
Step 5
The wilting cactus should be inserted into the prepared pot’s middle at the same depth as before. For a week, don’t water the plant. Following that, continue watering as directed in Step 2 for the remainder of the year.
Planting
In the spring or fall, when the temperature is between 15 and 20, sow, plant, or repot. When seeding, maintain a high air humidity. Cover the soil with plastic film and take it off once the seeds have sprouted.
For indoor plants, use flowerpots made of porous clay. A flowerpot that is too big can readily gather water, while one that is too small will prevent roots from growing. To kill viruses, clean soil before planting and expose it to intense sunlight.
Drooping prickly pear enjoys a spot with full sun and loose soil if it is planted in a garden. To guarantee proper water permeability and prevent root rot, eliminate all weeds and refill the soil as necessary. To avoid sticking your fingers during planting, put on gloves or use tongs. To make moving the plant easier, you might also cover it in a towel.
Water
A drought-tolerant plant that doesn’t require regular watering is the drooping prickly pear. When the soil is entirely dry, water it well. To prevent water buildup when watering a pot, water carefully, wait for water to trickle out the bottom, and then pour the extra water from the tray.
Its three main growing seasons are spring, summer, and fall. To keep the soil just a little bit moist, water once or twice every week. Water the soil only enough to prevent it from drying out too much over the winter, usually once a week. Additionally, use distilled or rainwater instead of tap water.
Calcium, magnesium, and other mineral salts are abundant in tap water. Compaction of the soil is often brought on by prolonged use. When watering, avoid sprinkling water on the stem to avoid rotting.
Fertilizer
Once a month, treat drooping prickly pears with liquid fertilizer during the growing seasons (spring, summer, and fall). Wintertime doesn’t call for fertilizer. When repotting in the spring or fall, a little amount of slow-release fertilizer can be thoroughly incorporated into the soil.
Use phosphate-potassium fertilizer before and after blooming and nitrogen fertilizer during seedling. The concentration of fertilizer ought to be as low as possible. It would be preferable to use a modest concentration of fertilizer multiple times as opposed to a high dosage. If the base is yellow and develops slowly, excessive fertilizer may be the problem. In this case, fertilizing should be stopped right once.
Harvest
The majority of a sagging prickly pear’s fruits are edible. When the fruit turns red, pick it. Verify the species with specialists to avoid problems with food safety. To harvest, put on gloves or use equipment like scissors.
Propagation
The two primary techniques of propagation, in addition to the aforementioned seeds, are division and grafting. To divide, use a knife to trim the stem’s tip or lateral branches before planting the pieces in soil. After some time, a large number of little shoots will emerge close to the wound. A shoot can be cut off when it reaches the right size and then transferred to create a new plant.
Choose an appropriate rootstock before grafting. Cut the rootstock’s tip, such as the stem of a pitahaya (Hylocereus undatus), and then insert a drooping prickly pear that has had its roots cut off in the middle, fixing it with a rope. The rope can be cut after the two pieces have grown together for one to two weeks.
Seasonal Precautions
Increase water and fertilizer application during the spring, summer, and fall growing seasons. In the sweltering summer, stay out of the sun. When the temperature gets too high, mist the plant with water to cool it off, but don’t let the water sit on the stem. Avoid letting water collect in the soil. Water it as little or not at all throughout the winter, and cease fertilizing.
How come my cactus is floppy and soft?
Stop watering it first, that is what you need to do. Prior to watering it once more, allow the soil’s surface to dry out.
Additionally, you might want to wait a week or two after ceasing watering before beginning again.
Placing your cactus in an area where it will receive more sun can also help it dry out more quickly.
The plant will evaporate the water more quickly with the aid of sunlight. The cactus can also be placed in an area with good airflow, such as close to a window or door.
It can take some time for your cactus to recover if you have been watering it excessively.
Keep your cactus well watered and patient, and you’ll soon witness it getting back to health.
Root Rot
Your cactus may get root rot if it has been submerged in water for an extended period of time or if the soil is very moist.
The plant will finally succumb to this and become floppy and squishy.
The cactus’s roots will begin to decay when the fungus assaults them, and the plant won’t be able to absorb water or nutrition. The cactus will eventually lose strength and perish as a result of this.
How to Fix It
Take your cactus out of the pot and cut out all of the rotten roots if you suspect it has root rot.
Take great care not to mutilate the sound roots. The cactus can then be replanted in a new pot with fresh dirt.
Keep an eye on it and remove any additional damaged sections because the rot can spread to the remainder of the plant.
It’s critical to clean the scissors or knife you used after removing the rot.
To do this, submerge them in a bleach and water solution. This will lessen the likelihood of the rot spreading to further plants.
Your dying cactus won’t be able to survive, though, if too much of the root system has decayed.
Poor Drainage
The soil of your cactus will grow damp and squishy if it is in a pot with poor drainage. The cactus will become pliable and its roots will decay as a result.
A pot that is excessively small or devoid of drainage holes for the plant may frequently result in poor drainage.
The soil will get damp and squishy because the pot will fill with water and prevent adequate drainage.
Additionally, employing a potting mix that prevents water from draining effectively can contribute to this.
The cactus will turn squishy if the soil is too dense or clumpy as it won’t enable the water to drain.
To ensure that the water can drain effectively, choose potting soil that is light and airy. For this, cactus soil mixture is ideal.
If the pot is too tiny, you can also create a drainage layer by packing rocks or gravel into the bottom of the pot.
Less watering is required if your cactus is in a pot with poor drainage. Prior to watering it once more, allow the soil’s surface to dry out.
Instead of watering the cactus from the bottom, you can also water it from the top. This will assist in draining any extra water that may be present in the pot.
Additionally, you must relocate it to a location with more sun. The plant will evaporate the water more quickly with the aid of sunlight.
Humidity
Because they are not accustomed to extreme humidity, cacti can grow limp and floppy.
They require a dry environment in order to thrive, and a high humidity level can harm them.
The cactus may get fungal illnesses due to high humidity, which will make the plant floppy and squishy.
You should relocate your cactus to an area with lower humidity if it is currently in a humid climate.
You should water your cactus less frequently if it is in a humid area. Prior to watering it once more, allow the soil’s surface to dry out.
Instead of watering the cactus from the bottom, you can also water it from the top.
However, be careful not to lay it directly in the sun as this could harm the cactus.
Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Your cactus may have a fungal illness or bacterial disease if it is spongy and has dark soft areas.
The fungus or bacteria that generate black spots on cactus plants will eventually kill the plant by spreading to other sections of the cactus.
Cactus fungus may develop as a result of excessive irrigation, high humidity, or inadequate air circulation. A dirty pot, contaminated soil, or the use of unclean water can all result in the growth of bacteria.
You must use a fungicide or bactericide to treat your cactus if it has a fungal or bacterial condition. Another option is to use an organic fungicide, such neem oil.
You must get rid of any dead or rotting plant components if your cactus has a fungal or bacterial problem. This will aid in halting the spread of the infection.
The dirt and pot need to be cleaned as well. After boiling the soil for 15 minutes to disinfect it, wash the pot with hot water with soap.
By keeping the plant’s container and soil clean, providing it with the proper amount of water, and relocating it to an area with more sunlight and lower humidity, you can try to avoid fungus and bacteria from infecting your cactus.
By following these instructions, you can keep your cactus healthy and stop it from wilting.
Untreated Injuries
Your cactus may have been hurt if it is soft and lacks any black patches.
Falling off the pot, being struck by a hard object, or taking too much sun can all result in injuries.
Insect pests like mealybugs or scale insects can also harm cacti.
Without medical attention, wounds may spread an infection, which will cause the cactus to decay.
Additionally, wounds can make the cactus weak and prevent it from absorbing soil nutrients and water.
If it is infected, you can treat it with a fungicide or bactericide. Another option is to use an organic fungicide, such neem oil.
The injury might only need to be cleaned with mild soap and water if it is not infected.
To remove the damaged portion of the plant, you can use a sharp knife or pair of scissors. Before using the knife or scissors again, make careful to clean them.
Additionally, you must relocate it to an area with higher sun exposure and lower humidity.
The plant will evaporate the water more quickly with the aid of sunlight. However, be careful not to lay it directly in the sun as this could harm the cactus.
Insect Damage
A cactus may also grow soft due to insects like mealybugs or scale insects.
These bugs produce honeydew, a sticky substance that they exude after feeding on the plant’s sap.
Ants and other insects will be drawn to this substance, further harming the plant.
The cactus may weaken as a result of a pest infestation since it won’t be able to take up water or nutrients from the soil.
You have a choice between using a chemical pesticide or an organic pesticide like neem oil.
When using a chemical pesticide, be sure to take precautions and adhere to the label’s instructions.
The insects can also possibly be eliminated manually. Use a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol to get rid of the pests if you have a little cactus.
It will be more challenging to manually remove the insects off a huge cactus. Either use an insecticide soap spray or try blasting them off the plant with a hose.
You must properly care for your cactus after the insects are gone in order to aid in its recovery. Trim away any cactus plant parts that are broken or dead.
When necessary, water the cactus and offer well-draining soil. To aid in the cactus’ recovery, you can also fertilize it.
If a pest infestation was the root of the issue, you must keep an eye out for new infestations on the plant.