A south- or east-facing windowsill is the best location for lithops, as they require a sunny place with at least five hours of direct sunlight each day. Keep in mind that if winter temperatures drop drastically, you might need to remove your lithops from your windowsill.
How to plant lithops
Online purchases of lithops could arrive bare-root, requiring you to plant them yourself. Lithops require a compost that is extremely free-draining, like a cactus compost. To ensure that the compost dries out fast, choose a terracotta container because it is more porous than a plastic or glazed one. You can plant them alone or in groupings.
Propagating lithops
Lithops can be multiplied by seed or division, albeit both methods need a lot of work. Lithops must mature into a cluster over a number of years before being divided. Make sure each component of the plant still has a functional taproot before carefully removing it from the pot and cutting through the roots. Each division should be repotted into a pot that is deep enough to allow the taproot to expand without being compressed.
Prepare a pot with free-draining cactus compost and extra grit to grow lithops from seed. Give the compost some water and let it drain. Cover the area with a thin layer of sand or vermiculite after scattering lithops seeds over it. Until germination takes place, keep somewhat wet; after that, gradually cut down on watering.
How to water lithops
Lithops have a very specific growth cycle, hence they require extremely specific watering. At first, this might appear difficult, but once you get the feel of it, it’s simple.
The development of the new leaves should be taken into account when watering lithops. Each year, Lithops produce new leaves that appear between the two elder leaves before progressively shriveling up (pictured). The watering schedule is determined by the development of these new leaves. The old leaves may not shrivel up properly if you water too soon after the new ones have appeared.
In contrast to most succulents, lithops begin to grow in the fall. Give your lithops a good watering during this time since it coincides with seasonal rains in the wild (early September). Around this time, flowers begin to bloom; keep an eye out for the fissure to open and the bud to emerge. For lithops to flower, they must be at least three years old.
With the new pair of leaves growing inside the old, lithops continue to grow throughout the winter and into the next spring. However, it’s crucial to avoid watering in the winter. The soil should be extremely dry since the new pair of leaves actually grows by taking water from the old pair.
The new leaves emerge in the spring as the old leaves begin to shrink. When the old pair of leaves has fully withered, begin watering once more. Water sparingly, letting the compost dry up in between applications.
Summertime, often the hottest time of year in their native southern African climate, is when lithops go dormant. Then, in early September, when growth resumes, give them a big drink. Avoid watering them during this period.
Growing lithops: problem solving
The primary issue with growing lithops is overwatering or watering at the incorrect time of year. The plants’ markings may also fade in the absence of light. The red spider mite can be a nuisance in greenhouses and conservatories.
How challenging is Lithops seedling growth?
Learn to raise lithops; they will not let you down. As long as a few simple guidelines are followed, these intriguing “living stone” plants have adapted to life in captivity quite well.
They are among the succulent house plants that have successfully adapted to growing indoors.
Although they can be grown quite easily, these xerophytes can be picky about their soil, temperature, time of day, and watering requirements.
It won’t take you long to develop a passion with cultivating them once you understand the fundamental requirements.
In a climate-controlled setting, such a greenhouse, lithops thrive in shallow containers.
See how these amazing plants change with the seasons
Since they won’t need it all day, they should be shielded from the sun starting at noon.
They will favor a bright, filtered light source, such as those found under grow lights, behind sheer curtains, or beneath shade cloth.
When you do water them, give them a good soaking so the earth is totally soaked. After that, let the soil totally dry out.
How long does it take Lithops to mature from a seed?
Since lithops seed resembles dust, seeding needs deft hands; alternatively, the seed can be mixed with silver sand for simpler handling. The optimal seasons to start are fall and spring, and it’s recommended to use a heated propagator or heat mat to keep the seeds’ germination temperature at a constant 20°C. Press the seed into the surface without covering it—seeds need light to germinate—and prepare a mixture of ready-dampened fine grit or sand and high-quality cactus compost that is split in half. Place the seeds in a plastic bag or under a transparent plastic top; after two to three weeks, or whenever the seeds sprout, remove the container. 12–18 months after sowing, leave in place until they are ready for pricking out.
Can Lithops be multiplied?
Lithops are, for the most part, fairly passive. They behave really well for themselves! But there are a few things you should know about taking care of lithops.
Light
Lithops is a full-sun plant that thrives in its natural habitat. It needs enough sunshine to produce the multicolored show that resembles a stone.
However, 4-5 hours of direct sunlight per day should be sufficient for houseplants or gardens to thrive.
You might be able to leave it in direct sunlight all day in coastal areas or in milder climates. Place your plants where they’ll get some afternoon shade so they can cool off if you live in a desert or a region where it gets too hot.
Your lithops aren’t being grown outside? Make sure your plant receives adequate sunlight each day, and rotate it frequently. If your plant isn’t getting enough sun, it may experience etiolation, which is an elongation or warping of the leaves. To capture as much light as possible, it will spread out its leaves.
Insufficient light may also cause color loss in your plant. A south or west-facing window will typically provide your plant with enough sunshine to thrive, but you’ll want to turn it occasionally to ensure that the entire plant is exposed to the sun.
If your indoor plant received less light over the winter, gradually increase its full sun exposure in the spring to help it acclimate to extended durations of light. This will shield the leaves from sunburn or scarring.
Warm climate plants (those that can survive temperatures over 50 degrees Fahrenheit) can spend the entire winter outside without the requirement for progressive exposure.
Temperature
Rarely can frost conditions exist in the South African regions like Namibia where lithops originally evolved. This indicates that the plant itself has never acclimated to colder climates and that it abhors the cold to the core.
Avoid exposure to frost or freezes since extremely cold temperatures will cause the thick leaves’ cell walls to burst. As a result, your plant will rot and die. Ideally, never leave your lithops outside in temperatures below 40 degrees or let it stay in temperatures below 50 degrees.
Although lithops grow best in temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees, they may endure temperatures as high as 90 or 100 degrees for brief periods of time. In these circumstances, it is ideal for them to be exposed to morning shade and afternoon sun.
Water
Due to the plant’s origin in an area of intense drought, irrigation is the most challenging aspect of taking care of lithops. Less than an inch of water in a year is not unusual in its natural habitat. It goes without saying that the plant has gotten used to living with less water.
The majority of the plant is used to store water so that it can survive. Those thick, rocky-looking leaves serve as the plant’s water reservoirs.
As a result, you must water in accordance with the season because the plant has specific seasonal routines that it adheres to.
The plant typically grows in the spring and fall, during which time it is most likely to require water. Keep your watering to no more than once every ten days during those times. Watering shouldn’t be done until the soil is fully dry four to five inches below the surface.
Don’t water your plant if it appears content without it in the spring and fall. It most likely receives adequate moisture from the air’s humidity. Dew or damp air is the primary source of moisture for many lithops species.
Exposure to the rain should be kept to a minimum. Because they are not used to receiving a lot of water, as I previously indicated, these plants will deteriorate if they receive too much!
We’re all accustomed to giving our plants more frequent waterings during the summer. The plant should only be watered if the plant is wrinkling and the leaves appear to be drying out since living stones inactive during the summer heat.
If you water in the summer, do so first thing in the morning, and simply give it a little water. The least amount should be enough moisture for the plant to recover and the leaves to reappear full.
Do not water at all in the winter. During that time, your plant will also be in a semi-dormant state, however occasionally a flower may last through the beginning of the winter.
It is quite simple to overwater this plant. Your lithops will be content if you err on the side of underwatering.
Soil
For the majority of lithops plants, a well-draining, grit-rich cactus blend of potting soil is suitable. Sand to crumbled granite make up their natural habitat, which rarely retains much water.
Lacking access to cactus mix? Not to worry. You can create your own by combining grit material and potting soil or compost at a 50/50 ratio. Sand, decomposed granite, perlite, pumice or lava rock, sand, and other grittier minerals are all suitable alternatives.
Too-wet soils might lead to root rot in your lithops or can encourage the growth of pests that can attack the roots. Consider using a gritty or sandy mix instead of rich soil because of how harsh their natural environment is; they can handle bad soil far better than rich soil.
Fertilizer
Generally speaking, fertilizing your lithops is unnecessary. Nearly no fertilizer is used to these plants in their native habitat.
However, some people do fertilize their living stone plant briefly right before the plant’s typical flowering period to promote blooming. If you decide to do that, apply a low-nitrogen, high-potassium cactus fertilizer that has been substantially diluted.
You should fertilize sparingly, if at all, similar to how you would water. Additionally, stay away from foliar fertilizer because it can burn the leaves.
Propagation
The majority of individuals grow lithops from seed. Simply prepare a pot of soil as previously mentioned, carefully scatter your lithops seed over the top, and then cover with a thin layer of sand to complete the process. Until germination takes place, keep the sand mildly damp; after that, gradually cut back on watering.
You can carefully remove a plant cluster from its pot and dust off the soil around the roots if you have them. Use a sterile razor blade to precisely cut the leaf pairs with a good amount of taproot remaining attached to each using the root and leaf pairs as guides to determine where to make the cuts.
The other finer feeder roots can be left out because they will quickly regenerate, making their inclusion less necessary. However, portion of the taproot is necessary for your lithops leaf pairs to survive.
Repotting
You might discover that repotting your plant is infrequent unless you’re dividing it. Despite the fact that lithops have a lifespan of 40 to 50 years, it’s not unusual for people to keep their plant in the same pot for 10 to 20 years.
Repotting is most frequently done to divide the plant. If not, you might want to put their lithops in a bigger pot to create a larger plant colony.
Whatever the reason for the repotting, you must use a pot that is deep enough to accommodate the plant’s long taproot. There must be at least three, but five or even slightly deeper is preferable. As a result, the taproot can expand without wrapping itself around the pot.
Plant your living stone plant with its leaf tops just above the soil’s surface in a well-draining cactus potting soil. The ideal height is half an inch above the ground. Because the taproot is crucial to the survival of your plant, take care when modifying the root system.
After repotting, you can create a natural atmosphere for the plant by scattering gravel or rocks around the soil’s surface. Wait at least another three to four years before transplanting it, and if it was a division, wait much longer.
Pruning…?
Nope! Pruning is unnecessary for living stones. The plant will take care of itself because there are just two leaves visible above the soil line.
Once the plant has reabsorbed all of the leaves’ moisture and nutrients, you might only occasionally need to remove the papery remains of older leaves. Even then, the older leaves will eventually peel off on their own as the new ones grow from the younger ones.