Lithops are little, intriguing plants native to southern Africa that are rather simple to grow inside. William John Burchell made the initial discovery of the Lithops in 1811 while on a botanical expedition in southern Africa. He came uncovered a strange-looking brown stone with a fracture running across its surface while exploring the Northern Cape Province, not far from the town of Prieska. This odd-looking stone proved out to be a succulent plant upon closer investigation. Due to their resemblance to stones, these members of the Mesembryanthemaceae (Aizoaceae) plant family were given the names lithos and opsis. Because they resemble tiny hoofprints, these plants are called locally by the Afrikaans names beeskloutjie (cattle hoof), skaappootjie (sheep hoof), or perdeklou (horse’s hoof). Even for those with a trained eye and years of experience, it can be challenging to spot Lithops in their native habitats in Namibia and South Africa because they have evolved to blend in so well with their surroundings—looking exactly like the sand and stones they live among in shape, size, and color.
Lithops are found in dry locations in colonies that are widely spaced apart and poorly populated. The word has both a singular and a plural form. In regions where Lithops are found, there is often less than 20 millimeters of rain per year, with the majority falling in the spring and fall. A few species rely on mist or fog as their primary supply of moisture, and some are found in regions with an average annual rainfall of four or less. They can grow on quartz grit or gravely flats, stony ridges and hills of sand, decomposed granite, quartzite, shale, schist, and limestone, as well as in many different types of environments. The Nama Karoo and succulent Karoo are home to the vast majority of Lithops species, which are particularly prevalent along the Orange River basin in the Northern Cape, which spans between Namibia and western South Africa.
Due to their ability to store water, virtually the entire plant of lithops is devoted to this purpose, they may survive in these dry places. Each plant is made up of two succulent leaves that have been fused together to form an inverted cone (although some species will produce multi-headed plants). The separation between the two leaves is represented by the fissure at the plant’s top. The taproot unites abruptly at the base of the leaves; there is no stem. The plants can go months without rain because to their large, water-storing leaves. They shrivel and shrink below the soil level during dry spells (nearly always).
These tiny succulents, which have almost no stems, are partially underground. In their natural habitat, plants only reach heights of 1/2 to 1 and widths of 1 to 3 inches, growing flush with the ground. The effects of the strong heat and sunlight where they live are reduced by remaining small and maintaining a low profile. However, this also creates a challenge in illuminating the leaf cells’ subterranean chlorophyll, which is used for photosynthetic activity. Wide leaf tips have windowed cells that allow light to enter the interior of the leaf, where it is diffused before reaching the chlorophyll, which is dispersed throughout the interior leaf edges, in order to resolve this paradox.
There are at least 37 species of Lithops, and more than 145 different variants have been identified. Although they all appear relatively similar to one another, they differ largely in terms of body shape, patterns, color, and texture. They are available in several soft shades of gray, brown, rust, green, and pink. The patterns of dots, lines, or patches on the upper surface, which aid in their ability to replicate their surroundings, vary considerably. Where the markings occur, there can also be dimples or indentations. The windows may completely enclose most of the leaf surfaces or the marks may densely cover the leaf surface.
The majority of Lithops bloom in the late fall and early winter, giving out numerous-petaled daisy-like yellow, pale orange, or white blooms. On sunny days, the blooms bloom in the afternoon and close again in the late afternoon. The crack between the leaves is where the flowers appear. There are perfumed flowers. Depending on the species and circumstances, they can be anywhere between 1/2 to 11/2 inches in size.
Because lithops are self-sterile, pollination is required to create seed. The hydrochastic 4–8 chambered fruiting capsule, which protects the seed, only opens when moistened, revealing the tiny seeds. In the natural world, raindrops splash out seeds up to a few feet or up to an inch from the parent plant. Any seeds still inside the capsule are protected until the following rain when the capsule closes after drying.
Following flowering, the plant enters a dormant stage during which at least one new body grows. As the new leaves emerge in the spring, the plants begin to reabsorb the old ones. Eventually, the crack between the old leaves is where the new body emerges. The new leaves’ fissure forms at a roughly 90-degree angle to the existing fissure. The old leaves eventually decompose into a dry, papery sheath on the side of the new body. At this point, a lot of plants will also divide to create many leaf pairs, which will eventually cause a single body to resemble a little cluster.
Lithops are common novelty houseplants because they can survive in low humidity, require little maintenance and water, and are reasonably simple to grow. These plants don’t require much space due to their modest size and sluggish, compact growth. Lithops live for 40 to 50 years on average. A plant can easily be kept in the same pot for ten or twenty years. Lithops are not harmful to people or animals. (Some references even mention African youngsters consuming these plants to relieve their thirst.) In cultivation, their health is reliant on adequate bright light, effective soil drainage, and appropriate watering.
Although a greenhouse is recommended, lithops can be grown effectively on a sunny windowsill where they get about 4 to 5 hours of direct sunlight in the morning and some shade in the afternoon. The optimum site is typically a southern window, while an unobstructed eastern exposure is a fine alternative. A plant will start to grow elongated and skinny, lean to one side to get more light, lose color and turn greenish, and eventually die if better circumstances are not provided. However, take care when transferring a plant suddenly to a brighter location. It could suffer deadly injuries from sunburn.
Similar to cactus, lithops demand well-drained soil. Use specialized cactus potting soil or add sharp sand, perlite, decomposed granite, or other grit to standard houseplant potting soil to help with drainage. These plants require a larger container than their apparent size would suggest because of their enormous root systems. To provide the roots enough room to expand, pots with drain holes and a depth of 3 to 5 inches are advised. Instead of having the plant’s top directly on the soil’s surface as it would in nature, place it just a little bit above it. For a more natural appearance, several growers topdress the plant with gravel or surround it with stones. Lithops go through a yearly cycle of growth, and it’s important to water them just when necessary and let the soil dry up at other times. The main factor contributing to early death is overwatering. They decay or grow new bodies at the incorrect time of year when there is too much water present. They grow stunted if there is little water. Depending on how rapidly the potting media dries out, you need to water more frequently. Generally speaking, water the plant and let it air dry fully (probably 1-2 weeks). After that, wait a few more days before watering once more. If unsure, don’t! The optimum time to water is in the morning because this allows the extra water to drain and the top soil layers to dry off pretty fast. Here are some general watering recommendations (however species may affect them slightly):
- from late spring to summer, water.
- Stop watering the plant in the summer when it turns dormant. Only water until the top half inch of the soil is moist if the plant truly starts to shrivel. This will restore the plant’s firm appearance.
- Watering should be resumed in late summer or early fall when plants begin to develop and bloom again. When the slit between the leaves starts to open up in anticipation of flowering, that is the first indication of growth.
- Lithops need to be completely dry during the winter and spring. Stop watering the plant so that the old leaf pair can dry out and make way for the new pair. The new body should be discernible by early April. Once the remains of the previous body have totally dried out and shriveled, watering can be resumed. The plant won’t grow properly if water is given too soon since the old “leaves” will want to continue to grow. Keep in mind that when the new leaves are developing, the old ones should completely dry out.
Fertilize Use a low nitrogen, high potassium kind of lithops. Lithops can withstand extremely high temperatures provided there is sufficient abundance of fresh air. Don’t ever let the plants freeze.
Today, specialty succulent nurseries sell seeds, plants, and a wide variety of cultivars. They sprout from seeds swiftly, and under ideal circumstances, they can be anticipated to flower in 3 to 4 years. The seeds should be sown on sandy soil during the summer and covered with a very thin layer of fine sand. Water the small seeds sparingly to avoid moving them. Keep the contents damp but not soggy and place the container in a warm, sunny location. In a few weeks, the first seeds should begin to sprout (but germination may be spread out over a long period of time, with stragglers taking as long as a year). Once the seedlings are growing quickly, watering should be reduced such that the upper 1/4 of the medium dries out and the lower 1/4 remains moist. Water sparingly during this time because too much watering could dampen off the seedlings. Start allowing the plants totally dry out for a few days between waterings when they are 2 to 3 months old, and then gradually extend the drying period. When the baby plants are around a year old, they can be transplanted. Another way to multiply lithops is to divide a multiheaded plant. Lift the plant, make a clean incision through the roots, and then quickly replant it. University of Wisconsin-Madison student Susan Mahr
Can I grow Lithops in succulent soil?
However, these individuals in particular typically need even more specialised soil types. They are just rocks, as you can see. rocks that gradually enlarge. Rocks gravitate toward other rocks. For this reason, we advise using a growing medium that has very little organic matter when you plant your Lithops. It’s acceptable to use half succulent soil and half perlite, but the less soil you use, the better. For Lithopsis, a growing media rich in perlite, coarse sand, gravel, pumice, and/or lava rocks is ideal. Soil should make up around 1/5 of the medium, with the remainder being mineral. In actuality, Lithops thrive in a soilless environment. It turns that they don’t really need dirt.
Can Lithops be grown in sand?
Although they resemble cloven hooves somewhat, lithops plants are also known as “living stones”. Although they are native to South Africa’s deserts, these tiny, split succulents are frequently offered for sale at garden centers and nurseries. Lithops flourish in sandy, compacted soil that receives little water and is quite hot. A little knowledge on lithops will help you discover how to cultivate live stone plants so that they flourish in your home, even if they are generally simple to grow.
Location
If at all feasible, place your Lithops in an area that receives direct sunshine throughout the day. They should ideally be outside because the lack of light indoors frequently causes problems for them.
Substratum
The substrate needs to drain very well. It is strongly advised to utilize sandy soils, such as akadama, river sand, or pomice, as the roots cannot withstand ponding.
When do you have to water?
When you have plants, irrigation is the most crucial and challenging duty you must complete. Although there are several things we can do to prevent overwatering when dealing with lithops:
- Take the pot after it has been watered and again a few days later is one of them. Since the substrate weighs heavier when it is wet than when it is dry, all we need to do to determine when to irrigate is to recite the weight of the substrate in each condition.
- An additional choice is to use a humidity meter. Simply entering it will tell you whether it is wet or dry, but for accuracy, you need also introduce it in other locations (near the plant, away from it), as the substrate is typically more humid directly around the plant than close to the edge of the pot.
What water to use?
The best irrigation water is rainwater, but because that is not always possible, we can fill a bucket with tap water and leave it to soak over night. We will water the next day using the water from the bucket’s upper half.
Watering in winter
The lithops are dormant during the winter. This implies that their growth is virtually nonexistent and that they require less water. We must decrease the frequency of watering because of the prolonged moisture retention of the substrate caused by the weather.
Generally, we water once every 15 to 20 days, always taking into account the substrate’s humidity and the forecast.
Fertilizer
For them to grow healthily, the fertilizer is crucial. For this reason, they must be fertilized with mineral-based fertilizers during the entire growing season (spring and summer), whether they are designed expressly for cacti and succulents or with Nitrophoska, pouring a tiny spoonful once every 15 days.
Transplant
Being little plants, they can be moved to a somewhat bigger pot when we purchase them. If we buy them in the fall or winter, we’ll plant them in the spring when the risk of frost has gone and the lowest and maximum temperatures start to consistently rise over 15 degrees Celsius.
Lack of light
Lack of light will cause the new leaves to grow more vertically than usual, weakening the plants. Locating them in a location where direct sunlight hits them is crucial to either avoid it or solve it.
Decay
The leaves will rot and perish if there has been excessive irrigation or if the substrate has very poor drainage. Use well-drained surfaces and water sparingly, especially throughout the winter, to prevent this.
Snails
Mollusks such as snails and slugs adore these plants. The easiest and most efficient way to stop them from getting them is to add a few grains of molluscicide to the pots.
This article has further details on natural cures if you want to give them a try.
Propagation
You need two or more lithops that bloom at the same time, a brush, and a wind-protected spot in order to get new specimens. Once you acquire it, you must first navigate the thicket in search of one plant’s flower before moving on to another plant’s flower. If everything goes as planned, the final blossom will have been pollinated, and the seeds will start to develop. These seeds are then sown after they are fully developed in vermiculite-filled pots and exposed to sunlight.
Resilience and Resistance
Lithops are quite vulnerable to the cold, particularly to hail and snowfall. They can tolerate brief, weak frosts of up to -2°C, although a dry substrate is required. If you reside in a region with colder winters, it is practical to keep them inside a greenhouse or indoors in a location with lots of light, such as next to a window and insulated from drafts (both cold and warm).