Lithops are little, intriguing plants native to southern Africa that are rather simple to grow inside. William John Burchell made the initial discovery of the Lithops in 1811 while on a botanical expedition in southern Africa. He came uncovered a strange-looking brown stone with a fracture running across its surface while exploring the Northern Cape Province, not far from the town of Prieska. This odd-looking stone proved out to be a succulent plant upon closer investigation. Due to their resemblance to stones, these members of the Mesembryanthemaceae (Aizoaceae) plant family were given the names lithos and opsis. Because they resemble tiny hoofprints, these plants are called locally by the Afrikaans names beeskloutjie (cattle hoof), skaappootjie (sheep hoof), or perdeklou (horse’s hoof). Even for those with a trained eye and years of experience, it can be challenging to spot Lithops in their native habitats in Namibia and South Africa because they have evolved to blend in so well with their surroundings—looking exactly like the sand and stones they live among in shape, size, and color.
Lithops are found in dry locations in colonies that are widely spaced apart and poorly populated. The word has both a singular and a plural form. In regions where Lithops are found, there is often less than 20 millimeters of rain per year, with the majority falling in the spring and fall. A few species rely on mist or fog as their primary supply of moisture, and some are found in regions with an average annual rainfall of four or less. They can grow on quartz grit or gravely flats, stony ridges and hills of sand, decomposed granite, quartzite, shale, schist, and limestone, as well as in many different types of environments. The Nama Karoo and succulent Karoo are home to the vast majority of Lithops species, which are particularly prevalent along the Orange River basin in the Northern Cape, which spans between Namibia and western South Africa.
Due to their ability to store water, virtually the entire plant of lithops is devoted to this purpose, they may survive in these dry places. Each plant is made up of two succulent leaves that have been fused together to form an inverted cone (although some species will produce multi-headed plants). The separation between the two leaves is represented by the fissure at the plant’s top. The taproot unites abruptly at the base of the leaves; there is no stem. The plants can go months without rain because to their large, water-storing leaves. They shrivel and shrink below the soil level during dry spells (nearly always).
These tiny succulents, which have almost no stems, are partially underground. In their natural habitat, plants only reach heights of 1/2 to 1 and widths of 1 to 3 inches, growing flush with the ground. The effects of the strong heat and sunlight where they live are reduced by remaining small and maintaining a low profile. However, this also creates a challenge in illuminating the leaf cells’ subterranean chlorophyll, which is used for photosynthetic activity. Wide leaf tips have windowed cells that allow light to enter the interior of the leaf, where it is diffused before reaching the chlorophyll, which is dispersed throughout the interior leaf edges, in order to resolve this paradox.
There are at least 37 species of Lithops, and more than 145 different variants have been identified. Although they all appear relatively similar to one another, they differ largely in terms of body shape, patterns, color, and texture. They are available in several soft shades of gray, brown, rust, green, and pink. The patterns of dots, lines, or patches on the upper surface, which aid in their ability to replicate their surroundings, vary considerably. Where the markings occur, there can also be dimples or indentations. The windows may completely enclose most of the leaf surfaces or the marks may densely cover the leaf surface.
The majority of Lithops bloom in the late fall and early winter, giving out numerous-petaled daisy-like yellow, pale orange, or white blooms. On sunny days, the blooms bloom in the afternoon and close again in the late afternoon. The crack between the leaves is where the flowers appear. There are perfumed flowers. Depending on the species and circumstances, they can be anywhere between 1/2 to 11/2 inches in size.
Because lithops are self-sterile, pollination is required to create seed. The hydrochastic 4–8 chambered fruiting capsule, which protects the seed, only opens when moistened, revealing the tiny seeds. In the natural world, raindrops splash out seeds up to a few feet or up to an inch from the parent plant. Any seeds still inside the capsule are protected until the following rain when the capsule closes after drying.
Following flowering, the plant enters a dormant stage during which at least one new body grows. As the new leaves emerge in the spring, the plants begin to reabsorb the old ones. Eventually, the crack between the old leaves is where the new body emerges. The new leaves’ fissure forms at a roughly 90-degree angle to the existing fissure. The old leaves eventually decompose into a dry, papery sheath on the side of the new body. At this point, a lot of plants will also divide to create many leaf pairs, which will eventually cause a single body to resemble a little cluster.
Lithops are common novelty houseplants because they can survive in low humidity, require little maintenance and water, and are reasonably simple to grow. These plants don’t require much space due to their modest size and sluggish, compact growth. Lithops live for 40 to 50 years on average. A plant can easily be kept in the same pot for ten or twenty years. Lithops are not harmful to people or animals. (Some references even mention African youngsters consuming these plants to relieve their thirst.) In cultivation, their health is reliant on adequate bright light, effective soil drainage, and appropriate watering.
Although a greenhouse is recommended, lithops can be grown effectively on a sunny windowsill where they get about 4 to 5 hours of direct sunlight in the morning and some shade in the afternoon. The optimum site is typically a southern window, while an unobstructed eastern exposure is a fine alternative. A plant will start to grow elongated and skinny, lean to one side to get more light, lose color and turn greenish, and eventually die if better circumstances are not provided. However, take care when transferring a plant suddenly to a brighter location. It could suffer deadly injuries from sunburn.
Similar to cactus, lithops demand well-drained soil. Use specialized cactus potting soil or add sharp sand, perlite, decomposed granite, or other grit to standard houseplant potting soil to help with drainage. These plants require a larger container than their apparent size would suggest because of their enormous root systems. To provide the roots enough room to expand, pots with drain holes and a depth of 3 to 5 inches are advised. Instead of having the plant’s top directly on the soil’s surface as it would in nature, place it just a little bit above it. For a more natural appearance, several growers topdress the plant with gravel or surround it with stones. Lithops go through a yearly cycle of growth, and it’s important to water them just when necessary and let the soil dry up at other times. The main factor contributing to early death is overwatering. They decay or grow new bodies at the incorrect time of year when there is too much water present. They grow stunted if there is little water. Depending on how rapidly the potting media dries out, you need to water more frequently. Generally speaking, water the plant and let it air dry fully (probably 1-2 weeks). After that, wait a few more days before watering once more. If unsure, don’t! The optimum time to water is in the morning because this allows the extra water to drain and the top soil layers to dry off pretty fast. Here are some general watering recommendations (however species may affect them slightly):
- from late spring to summer, water.
- Stop watering the plant in the summer when it turns dormant. Only water until the top half inch of the soil is moist if the plant truly starts to shrivel. This will restore the plant’s firm appearance.
- Watering should be resumed in late summer or early fall when plants begin to develop and bloom again. When the slit between the leaves starts to open up in anticipation of flowering, that is the first indication of growth.
- Lithops need to be completely dry during the winter and spring. Stop watering the plant so that the old leaf pair can dry out and make way for the new pair. The new body should be discernible by early April. Once the remains of the previous body have totally dried out and shriveled, watering can be resumed. The plant won’t grow properly if water is given too soon since the old “leaves” will want to continue to grow. Keep in mind that when the new leaves are developing, the old ones should completely dry out.
Fertilize Use a low nitrogen, high potassium kind of lithops. Lithops can withstand extremely high temperatures provided there is sufficient abundance of fresh air. Don’t ever let the plants freeze.
Today, specialty succulent nurseries sell seeds, plants, and a wide variety of cultivars. They sprout from seeds swiftly, and under ideal circumstances, they can be anticipated to flower in 3 to 4 years. The seeds should be sown on sandy soil during the summer and covered with a very thin layer of fine sand. Water the small seeds sparingly to avoid moving them. Keep the contents damp but not soggy and place the container in a warm, sunny location. In a few weeks, the first seeds should begin to sprout (but germination may be spread out over a long period of time, with stragglers taking as long as a year). Once the seedlings are growing quickly, watering should be reduced such that the upper 1/4 of the medium dries out and the lower 1/4 remains moist. Water sparingly during this time because too much watering could dampen off the seedlings. Start allowing the plants totally dry out for a few days between waterings when they are 2 to 3 months old, and then gradually extend the drying period. When the baby plants are around a year old, they can be transplanted. Another way to multiply lithops is to divide a multiheaded plant. Lift the plant, make a clean incision through the roots, and then quickly replant it. University of Wisconsin-Madison student Susan Mahr
Lithops can grow even without roots.
The natural range of Lithops, often known as Living Stones, is in southern Africa (Botswana, Namibia, South Africa). They are relatively small succulents that are prized for their exquisite, sometimes breathtaking, leaf designs and hues. If you know what you’re doing, growing your own lithops is actually quite simple.
Lithops Care
It’s crucial to get the fundamentals correct while cultivating succulents like lithops. temperature, water, light, and soil. These are the essential components for good Lithops cultivation and propagation.
All succulents require a well-draining soil. Typically, regular potting soil plus 25% pumice, coarse sand, or fine lime will do. Even more drainage is preferred for Lithops. It is ideal to have at least 50% drainage material.
Light Lithops plants require bright light, although they do not enjoy prolonged exposure to extremely direct sunlight. Here in the Netherlands, my plants thrive best with a few hours of early sun and brilliant, filtered sunlight. Please be aware that young plants and seedlings generally prefer a little more shade from the sun. After germination, my Lithops plants spend the first year without any direct sunlight.
In the spring and fall, water lithops species grow most actively. They essentially rested during the scorching heat. When you water your plants, remember to keep this in mind at all times.
As was already indicated, good drainage in the soil is essential for growing Lithops properly. Long-term wet feet are not good for these plants. After watering them, the soil needs to be dry once more in a day or two.
Depending on the weather and light, we water our Lithops plants once to twice a week in the spring and fall. Use little water when it’s cold outside in the spring or fall. In the winter, we keep our Lithops nearly dry. We water once a week in the summer heat, and the majority of the time we only give the plants a quick spritz or sprinkle with the garden hose.
Temperature Temperatures between 18 and 24 degrees Celsius are ideal for lithops growth. That’s spring and autumn, as was previously mentioned. If necessary, they can withstand extremely high summertime temperatures. When that occurs, avoid overwatering them and keep them out of direct sunshine.
Lithops Maintenance
Lithops upkeep is not difficult. In fact, it’s rather simple if you know what to do. Tip: Avoid doing any maintenance in the spring and fall when the plant is actively growing. Just before the new growth phase begins is the perfect time to trim roots and remove old skin. Late summer and early spring. We do four crucial actions when maintaining Lithops.
Step 1: Take the Lithops out of the soil
Remove the plant from the ground with care. Avoid tugging the plant head erratically to prevent damage. Use a teaspoon to pry it out. The roots can spread far and wide! If you like, you could also simply drain the soil and plants from the pot.
Step 2: Remove the old dry skin
With a brush or a gentle tug, remove any old, dried skin from the plant. In the natural world, where plants grow outdoors in the direct sun, the dead skin serves a role. It shields the body below. Therefore, if you grow your plants outdoors, feel free to ignore it. We take it out because it looks better and grows a little more quickly inside the greenhouse. Most likely because when the old skin is gone, it can absorb more light for photosynthesis.
Step 3: Trim the roots
People occasionally ponder why we prune the roots so severely (0,51 cm). This encourages fresh, robust growth. The plant will integrate more easily into the soil. Lithops can be planted without the roots being trimmed, but it’s crucial that they point downward. They dislike having their roots curl upward because it prevents them from growing. Recommendation: Wait a couple of days before planting your Lithops after trimming. The root cut must develop a callus.
Step 4: Plant you Lithops in fresh soil
The final step should be clear. Plant your Lithops in fresh soil that drains well and contains lots of pumice, coarse sand, or lava. As seen in the picture, make sure the plant head is almost level with the soil.
Lithops Propagation
The majority of lithops are grown from seeds. For us, the spring months of March and April are the greatest for seed germination. You can either purchase seeds or attempt to produce your own seeds by using a tiny paintbrush to pollinate your own Lithops plants. The same species’ individual plants are more numerous. Brush the inside of a blossom gently before moving on to another plant and repeating the same there. Brush as many blossoms as you can from several Lithops plants that belong to the same species. When your blooms come into contact with pollen from another plant, pollination will be most effective.
Lithops germination steps
- Succulent soil should be added to a pot.
- Add a top coating of fine lava or pumice (Bims).
- Over the top layer, equally distribute the seeds.
- The seeds should be watered down.
- Within 7–14 days, germination begins.
The ideal germination range for lithops seeds is between 18 and 24 C. To increase the air humidity for germination, you can cover the seed container or tray with some clear plastic. If the air humidity where the seeds are being germinated is already high, this is not necessary.
For at least the first three to four months following germination, lithops seedlings require appropriate protection. Extremes do not appeal to them. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. During the day, give the seedlings good filtered light but stay out of the sun. Try to keep the temps constant. 20 to 24 C during the day and 14 to 18 C at night, for instance.
Lithops FAQ
Numerous inquiries are made concerning Lithops. Here are a few significant ones. Please leave a comment on this site if you have any queries, criticisms, or additional stories about growing Lithops.
My Lithops plant feels soft and looks wrinkled. What should I do?
This is typical and typically happens in the summer when the Lithops body is dehydrating. Not to be concerned. On warm summer evenings, you can occasionally spritz the plant with water. In the autumn and spring, when it is actively growing and absorbing more water through the roots, the body will become firmer once more.
My Lithops is growing very long and looks pale green.
Most likely, your plant isn’t getting enough light. Try to gradually increase it. Another possibility is that the plant is receiving excessive amounts of fertilizer and water. It is challenging (nearly impossible?) to grow a Lithops plant that is typical in shape once it has become elongated (grown too long).