Lithops are little, intriguing plants native to southern Africa that are rather simple to grow inside. William John Burchell made the initial discovery of the Lithops in 1811 while on a botanical expedition in southern Africa. He came uncovered a strange-looking brown stone with a fracture running across its surface while exploring the Northern Cape Province, not far from the town of Prieska. This odd-looking stone proved out to be a succulent plant upon closer investigation. Due to their resemblance to stones, these members of the Mesembryanthemaceae (Aizoaceae) plant family were given the names lithos and opsis. Because they resemble tiny hoofprints, these plants are called locally by the Afrikaans names beeskloutjie (cattle hoof), skaappootjie (sheep hoof), or perdeklou (horse’s hoof). Even for those with a trained eye and years of experience, it can be challenging to spot Lithops in their native habitats in Namibia and South Africa because they have evolved to blend in so well with their surroundings—looking exactly like the sand and stones they live among in shape, size, and color.
Lithops are found in dry locations in colonies that are widely spaced apart and poorly populated. The word has both a singular and a plural form. In regions where Lithops are found, there is often less than 20 millimeters of rain per year, with the majority falling in the spring and fall. A few species rely on mist or fog as their primary supply of moisture, and some are found in regions with an average annual rainfall of four or less. They can grow on quartz grit or gravely flats, stony ridges and hills of sand, decomposed granite, quartzite, shale, schist, and limestone, as well as in many different types of environments. The Nama Karoo and succulent Karoo are home to the vast majority of Lithops species, which are particularly prevalent along the Orange River basin in the Northern Cape, which spans between Namibia and western South Africa.
Due to their ability to store water, virtually the entire plant of lithops is devoted to this purpose, they may survive in these dry places. Each plant is made up of two succulent leaves that have been fused together to form an inverted cone (although some species will produce multi-headed plants). The separation between the two leaves is represented by the fissure at the plant’s top. The taproot unites abruptly at the base of the leaves; there is no stem. The plants can go months without rain because to their large, water-storing leaves. They shrivel and shrink below the soil level during dry spells (nearly always).
These tiny succulents, which have almost no stems, are partially underground. In their natural habitat, plants only reach heights of 1/2 to 1 and widths of 1 to 3 inches, growing flush with the ground. The effects of the strong heat and sunlight where they live are reduced by remaining small and maintaining a low profile. However, this also creates a challenge in illuminating the leaf cells’ subterranean chlorophyll, which is used for photosynthetic activity. Wide leaf tips have windowed cells that allow light to enter the interior of the leaf, where it is diffused before reaching the chlorophyll, which is dispersed throughout the interior leaf edges, in order to resolve this paradox.
There are at least 37 species of Lithops, and more than 145 different variants have been identified. Although they all appear relatively similar to one another, they differ largely in terms of body shape, patterns, color, and texture. They are available in several soft shades of gray, brown, rust, green, and pink. The patterns of dots, lines, or patches on the upper surface, which aid in their ability to replicate their surroundings, vary considerably. Where the markings occur, there can also be dimples or indentations. The windows may completely enclose most of the leaf surfaces or the marks may densely cover the leaf surface.
The majority of Lithops bloom in the late fall and early winter, giving out numerous-petaled daisy-like yellow, pale orange, or white blooms. On sunny days, the blooms bloom in the afternoon and close again in the late afternoon. The crack between the leaves is where the flowers appear. There are perfumed flowers. Depending on the species and circumstances, they can be anywhere between 1/2 to 11/2 inches in size.
Because lithops are self-sterile, pollination is required to create seed. The hydrochastic 4–8 chambered fruiting capsule, which protects the seed, only opens when moistened, revealing the tiny seeds. In the natural world, raindrops splash out seeds up to a few feet or up to an inch from the parent plant. Any seeds still inside the capsule are protected until the following rain when the capsule closes after drying.
Following flowering, the plant enters a dormant stage during which at least one new body grows. As the new leaves emerge in the spring, the plants begin to reabsorb the old ones. Eventually, the crack between the old leaves is where the new body emerges. The new leaves’ fissure forms at a roughly 90-degree angle to the existing fissure. The old leaves eventually decompose into a dry, papery sheath on the side of the new body. At this point, a lot of plants will also divide to create many leaf pairs, which will eventually cause a single body to resemble a little cluster.
Lithops are common novelty houseplants because they can survive in low humidity, require little maintenance and water, and are reasonably simple to grow. These plants don’t require much space due to their modest size and sluggish, compact growth. Lithops live for 40 to 50 years on average. A plant can easily be kept in the same pot for ten or twenty years. Lithops are not harmful to people or animals. (Some references even mention African youngsters consuming these plants to relieve their thirst.) In cultivation, their health is reliant on adequate bright light, effective soil drainage, and appropriate watering.
Although a greenhouse is recommended, lithops can be grown effectively on a sunny windowsill where they get about 4 to 5 hours of direct sunlight in the morning and some shade in the afternoon. The optimum site is typically a southern window, while an unobstructed eastern exposure is a fine alternative. A plant will start to grow elongated and skinny, lean to one side to get more light, lose color and turn greenish, and eventually die if better circumstances are not provided. However, take care when transferring a plant suddenly to a brighter location. It could suffer deadly injuries from sunburn.
Similar to cactus, lithops demand well-drained soil. Use specialized cactus potting soil or add sharp sand, perlite, decomposed granite, or other grit to standard houseplant potting soil to help with drainage. These plants require a larger container than their apparent size would suggest because of their enormous root systems. To provide the roots enough room to expand, pots with drain holes and a depth of 3 to 5 inches are advised. Instead of having the plant’s top directly on the soil’s surface as it would in nature, place it just a little bit above it. For a more natural appearance, several growers topdress the plant with gravel or surround it with stones. Lithops go through a yearly cycle of growth, and it’s important to water them just when necessary and let the soil dry up at other times. The main factor contributing to early death is overwatering. They decay or grow new bodies at the incorrect time of year when there is too much water present. They grow stunted if there is little water. Depending on how rapidly the potting media dries out, you need to water more frequently. Generally speaking, water the plant and let it air dry fully (probably 1-2 weeks). After that, wait a few more days before watering once more. If unsure, don’t! The optimum time to water is in the morning because this allows the extra water to drain and the top soil layers to dry off pretty fast. Here are some general watering recommendations (however species may affect them slightly):
- from late spring to summer, water.
- Stop watering the plant in the summer when it turns dormant. Only water until the top half inch of the soil is moist if the plant truly starts to shrivel. This will restore the plant’s firm appearance.
- Watering should be resumed in late summer or early fall when plants begin to develop and bloom again. When the slit between the leaves starts to open up in anticipation of flowering, that is the first indication of growth.
- Lithops need to be completely dry during the winter and spring. Stop watering the plant so that the old leaf pair can dry out and make way for the new pair. The new body should be discernible by early April. Once the remains of the previous body have totally dried out and shriveled, watering can be resumed. The plant won’t grow properly if water is given too soon since the old “leaves” will want to continue to grow. Keep in mind that when the new leaves are developing, the old ones should completely dry out.
Fertilize Use a low nitrogen, high potassium kind of lithops. Lithops can withstand extremely high temperatures provided there is sufficient abundance of fresh air. Don’t ever let the plants freeze.
Today, specialty succulent nurseries sell seeds, plants, and a wide variety of cultivars. They sprout from seeds swiftly, and under ideal circumstances, they can be anticipated to flower in 3 to 4 years. The seeds should be sown on sandy soil during the summer and covered with a very thin layer of fine sand. Water the small seeds sparingly to avoid moving them. Keep the contents damp but not soggy and place the container in a warm, sunny location. In a few weeks, the first seeds should begin to sprout (but germination may be spread out over a long period of time, with stragglers taking as long as a year). Once the seedlings are growing quickly, watering should be reduced such that the upper 1/4 of the medium dries out and the lower 1/4 remains moist. Water sparingly during this time because too much watering could dampen off the seedlings. Start allowing the plants totally dry out for a few days between waterings when they are 2 to 3 months old, and then gradually extend the drying period. When the baby plants are around a year old, they can be transplanted. Another way to multiply lithops is to divide a multiheaded plant. Lift the plant, make a clean incision through the roots, and then quickly replant it. University of Wisconsin-Madison student Susan Mahr
Can lithops tolerate direct sunlight?
Lithops are, for the most part, fairly passive. They behave really well for themselves! But there are a few things you should know about taking care of lithops.
Light
Lithops is a full-sun plant that thrives in its natural habitat. It needs enough sunshine to produce the multicolored show that resembles a stone.
However, 4-5 hours of direct sunlight per day should be sufficient for houseplants or gardens to thrive.
You might be able to leave it in direct sunlight all day in coastal areas or in milder climates. Place your plants where they’ll get some afternoon shade so they can cool off if you live in a desert or a region where it gets too hot.
Your lithops aren’t being grown outside? Make sure your plant receives adequate sunlight each day, and rotate it frequently. If your plant isn’t getting enough sun, it may experience etiolation, which is an elongation or warping of the leaves. To capture as much light as possible, it will spread out its leaves.
Insufficient light may also cause color loss in your plant. A south or west-facing window will typically provide your plant with enough sunshine to thrive, but you’ll want to turn it occasionally to ensure that the entire plant is exposed to the sun.
If your indoor plant received less light over the winter, gradually increase its full sun exposure in the spring to help it acclimate to extended durations of light. This will shield the leaves from sunburn or scarring.
Warm climate plants (those that can survive temperatures over 50 degrees Fahrenheit) can spend the entire winter outside without the requirement for progressive exposure.
Temperature
Rarely can frost conditions exist in the South African regions like Namibia where lithops originally evolved. This indicates that the plant itself has never acclimated to colder climates and that it abhors the cold to the core.
Avoid exposure to frost or freezes since extremely cold temperatures will cause the thick leaves’ cell walls to burst. As a result, your plant will rot and die. Ideally, never leave your lithops outside in temperatures below 40 degrees or let it stay in temperatures below 50 degrees.
Although lithops grow best in temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees, they may endure temperatures as high as 90 or 100 degrees for brief periods of time. In these circumstances, it is ideal for them to be exposed to morning shade and afternoon sun.
Water
Due to the plant’s origin in an area of intense drought, irrigation is the most challenging aspect of taking care of lithops. Less than an inch of water in a year is not unusual in its natural habitat. It goes without saying that the plant has gotten used to living with less water.
The majority of the plant is used to store water so that it can survive. Those thick, rocky-looking leaves serve as the plant’s water reservoirs.
As a result, you must water in accordance with the season because the plant has specific seasonal routines that it adheres to.
The plant typically grows in the spring and fall, during which time it is most likely to require water. Keep your watering to no more than once every ten days during those times. Watering shouldn’t be done until the soil is fully dry four to five inches below the surface.
Don’t water your plant if it appears content without it in the spring and fall. It most likely receives adequate moisture from the air’s humidity. Dew or damp air is the primary source of moisture for many lithops species.
Exposure to the rain should be kept to a minimum. Because they are not used to receiving a lot of water, as I previously indicated, these plants will deteriorate if they receive too much!
We’re all accustomed to giving our plants more frequent waterings during the summer. The plant should only be watered if the plant is wrinkling and the leaves appear to be drying out since living stones inactive during the summer heat.
If you water in the summer, do so first thing in the morning, and simply give it a little water. The least amount should be enough moisture for the plant to recover and the leaves to reappear full.
Do not water at all in the winter. During that time, your plant will also be in a semi-dormant state, however occasionally a flower may last through the beginning of the winter.
It is quite simple to overwater this plant. Your lithops will be content if you err on the side of underwatering.
Soil
For the majority of lithops plants, a well-draining, grit-rich cactus blend of potting soil is suitable. Sand to crumbled granite make up their natural habitat, which rarely retains much water.
Lacking access to cactus mix? Not to worry. You can create your own by combining grit material and potting soil or compost at a 50/50 ratio. Sand, decomposed granite, perlite, pumice or lava rock, sand, and other grittier minerals are all suitable alternatives.
Too-wet soils might lead to root rot in your lithops or can encourage the growth of pests that can attack the roots. Consider using a gritty or sandy mix instead of rich soil because of how harsh their natural environment is; they can handle bad soil far better than rich soil.
Fertilizer
Generally speaking, fertilizing your lithops is unnecessary. Nearly no fertilizer is used to these plants in their native habitat.
However, some people do fertilize their living stone plant briefly right before the plant’s typical flowering period to promote blooming. If you decide to do that, apply a low-nitrogen, high-potassium cactus fertilizer that has been substantially diluted.
You should fertilize sparingly, if at all, similar to how you would water. Additionally, stay away from foliar fertilizer because it can burn the leaves.
Propagation
The majority of individuals grow lithops from seed. Simply prepare a pot of soil as previously mentioned, carefully scatter your lithops seed over the top, and then cover with a thin layer of sand to complete the process. Until germination takes place, keep the sand mildly damp; after that, gradually cut back on watering.
You can carefully remove a plant cluster from its pot and dust off the soil around the roots if you have them. Use a sterile razor blade to precisely cut the leaf pairs with a good amount of taproot remaining attached to each using the root and leaf pairs as guides to determine where to make the cuts.
The other finer feeder roots can be left out because they will quickly regenerate, making their inclusion less necessary. However, portion of the taproot is necessary for your lithops leaf pairs to survive.
Repotting
You might discover that repotting your plant is infrequent unless you’re dividing it. Despite the fact that lithops have a lifespan of 40 to 50 years, it’s not unusual for people to keep their plant in the same pot for 10 to 20 years.
Repotting is most frequently done to divide the plant. If not, you might want to put their lithops in a bigger pot to create a larger plant colony.
Whatever the reason for the repotting, you must use a pot that is deep enough to accommodate the plant’s long taproot. There must be at least three, but five or even slightly deeper is preferable. As a result, the taproot can expand without wrapping itself around the pot.
Plant your living stone plant with its leaf tops just above the soil’s surface in a well-draining cactus potting soil. The ideal height is half an inch above the ground. Because the taproot is crucial to the survival of your plant, take care when modifying the root system.
After repotting, you can create a natural atmosphere for the plant by scattering gravel or rocks around the soil’s surface. Wait at least another three to four years before transplanting it, and if it was a division, wait much longer.
Pruning…?
Nope! Pruning is unnecessary for living stones. The plant will take care of itself because there are just two leaves visible above the soil line.
Once the plant has reabsorbed all of the leaves’ moisture and nutrients, you might only occasionally need to remove the papery remains of older leaves. Even then, the older leaves will eventually peel off on their own as the new ones grow from the younger ones.