Why Is My Flapjack Plant Dying

Even though flapjack succulents are simple to cultivate indoors, there are a few problems that could hinder their development.

Why are my paddle plant leaves curling?

When paddle plant leaves start to curl, watering or lighting problems are typically to fault. Flapjack paddle plants require occasional watering and do best in dry, sandy soil. Additionally, the succulent in a pot should grow in strong light; some direct sunlight is acceptable. Avoid planting paddle plants in dimly lit or darkened areas.

What is white powder on a paddle plant?

The succulent blue-green leaves of paddle plants typically have a light white coating that resembles powder. However, powdery mildew may be the cause of the issue if the soil has been wet and the leaves seem browned with a white powdery coating.

Wipe the leaves of succulent plants with slightly diluted milk to remove powdery mildew. After that, keep the paddle plant away from humid areas and only water the succulent soil when it is dry.

Why is my paddle plant dying?

Overwatering a flapjack succulent usually manifests as shriveled paddle leaves and drooping growth. Paddle plants don’t like to grow in squishy, excessively wet soil. When the soil is too wet, root rot develops quickly and the succulent begins to deteriorate.

Hold off watering your succulent until the soil dries out if you notice any symptoms that it is perishing.

A paddle plant’s leaves can potentially wither and die if they receive no water at all. In this situation, soak the ground and let any extra water drain. The Kalanchoe should then only be watered when the top 2 (5 cm) of the potting mix are dry.

How is a flapjack plant revived?

Water. Flapjacks are drought-tolerant, as you might expect from a succulent, and extreme caution should be exercised to avoid overwatering them. When it’s hot outside, make sure to let the soil completely dry out before deeply watering it again. They won’t need any watering at all or maybe very little over the winter.

Why is my flapjack plant acting up?

As long as the plant is regularly watered, receives plenty of sunlight, and has sufficient air circulation, Paddle Plant rarely, if ever, suffers from disease or pest issues.

Problems with powdery mildew, root rot, mealybug succulent pests, plant scale, aphids, and mites can result from overwatering and/or excessive fertilization.

What’s causing my flapjack to turn brown?

Even while kalanchoe flapjack plants often don’t need much attention, they occasionally get tiny brown spots that range in hue from yellowish-brown to rusty brown. Usually, edema, a mild physical ailment, is to blame, but if the spots are tiny and reddish-brown, they can be caused by soft brown scale insects. Edema damage is minor and tends to be limited, but scale insects can kill the plant’s leaves if you don’t treat them quickly.

Why are my flapjack plant’s leaves falling off?

Hello, I have this gorgeous succulent. It has flat, bluish paddle-shaped leaves that are covered in a white powdery material.

It has been producing new growth (pups), which I replanted, and they are flourishing.

The lowest leaves also droop. I initially believed I had overwatered, but the leaves are in fact not at all mushy. Does the droopiness seem typical or is there something wrong?

These photos show the mother plant (the main stem is being held erect by a chopstick), the top of the mother plant, and a baby plant that I repotted.

Hello, Leslie Ann The Flapjacks Plant is shown here; learn more about it here: Thyrsiflora kalanchoe If you’re concerned that you’re overwatering these plants, you definitely are because they are quite drought tolerant. Give it a nice sip, and after that, allow them to almost completely dry off. They prefer to be watered in this way, and if the soil is left too wet, they will complain and, in some circumstances, perish from waterlogged roots.

Lack of light is most likely to blame for the drooping leaves; this, together with the leaves’ pallid tone, indicate that the plant needs brighter, more intense light; yet, they can tolerate full sun, which gives the foliage a lovely reddish pink.

You should be cautious when exposing them to full sun since if you do so too soon, the leaves may become sunburned. Instead, gradually adapt them to a brighter environment by adding a half hour here and there each day until they have completely hardened off in a week or two.

Need sun for flapjack plants?

The family of stonecrops includes a very large genus of different plants called Kalanchoe (Crassulaceae). While many plants are grown for their flowers, “flapjacks”—which is sometimes referred to as a cultivar and other times as a common name—is treasured for its foliage. With its huge, meaty paddle-shaped leaves, it adds strong texture and architectural interest.

The two highly similar species, both native to South Africa, go by the same popular name—which alludes to the leaves that stack one on top of the other like pancakes—and are frequently mistaken in the horticulture industry. Before they bloom, it might be challenging to tell the two plants apart because their look varies according to the growing conditions. The majority of plants that go by the name K. thyrsiflora—a rather uncommon species with lighter, smaller leaves—actually belong to the K. luciae family. Dog tongue, desert cabbage, and paddle plant are some other common names for this plant.

Flapjacks is a succulent that can withstand drought. The plant’s basal rosette typically reaches heights of 12 to 18 inches and widths of 6 to 8 inches. The opposing leaves are held erect like clam shells and lack petioles, exposing only their narrow edges to the midday sun. The 4-6 long, smooth, grayish-green, obovate leaves have blunt, rounded tips and are covered in a powdery bloom that ranges in color from white to grey, which helps shield the leaves from sunlight.

The leaves of K. thyrsiflora are smaller, somewhat cupped, and consistently chalky green or white. They are also covered in a thick layer of wax that resembles flour, and they hardly ever display red or pink colouring. With more pronounced color in more sunshine, the leaves of K. luciae have less bloom and develop blushing pink to deep red edges. A form of variegated with pink, green, and white patterning is called “Tricolor.” The variegated variety “Fantastic” loses color when grown in direct sunlight.

Flapjacks bloom in late winter or early spring if given ample light and protection over the winter. The center of the rosette produces a tall, spindly flower spike that is between three and six feet tall. The narrow, urn-shaped, greenish waxy flowers with recurved lobes are held close to the stalk in dense clusters on the erect terminal inflorescence. The four petals of K. thrysiflora are bright yellow with widely obovate lobes, whereas the four petals of K. luciae are bright yellow with lanceolate corolla lobes. Compared to K. luciae, K. thrysiflora has flowers that are strongly aromatic. Although the plant typically develops some offsets, either at the base or on the lower section of the flower stalk, monocarpic plants are monocarpic and die after flowering.

Use flapjacks in large quantities or as an accent plant. It can be used in larger mixed pots, dish gardens, hanging baskets, or even the front of a bed or border as a seasonal plant in the Midwest. It can also be planted in the ground as a seasonal plant in the region. It pairs nicely with other succulent plants, such as miniature agaves, aloes, prickly terrestrial bromeliads, and echiverias, as well as with other low-water-demanding plants.

Both require the same level of care regardless of the species. Flapjacks should be grown in a sunny, well-drained area. Too much shadow will make plants spindly and prevent K. luciae from producing red margins on its leaves. Use a gravel mulch in place of an organic mulch that will retain moisture or leave the soil surrounding the plant exposed. If the soil is dry, water it; do not overwater. It is highly adapted to container growing, making it simpler to take indoors to maintain during the winter in the Midwest.

Outside of zones 9–10, it is preferable to bring the plants indoors when frost is imminent even though they can withstand temperatures as low as the mid-20soF. (unless grown as a seasonal annual that is not intended to survive the winter). If storing during the winter, water sparingly inside to avoid rotting and wait to fertilize until growth picks back up in the spring.

Flapjacks can be grown from seed, although it is usually propagated through offsets after the plant blooms or by re-rooting a single leaf.

University of Wisconsin-Madison student Susan Mahr

How much sun are required by flapjack plants?

Succulents known as flapjacks are native to South Africa and are simple to cultivate in well-drained soil. They can resist dry, salty settings with intense heat and appreciate full sun and moderate shade, but they cannot tolerate temperatures below 20 F. (-6.7 C).

These lovely plants are a wonderful option for succulent gardens both indoors and outdoors, as well as Mediterranean, coastal, and container gardening. Flapjack succulents go nicely with echeverias, aloes, and other rosette-shaped succulents, so you may use them in arrangements.

Plant your Flapjack succulent where it will get at least six hours of direct sunlight every day to keep it happy and healthy.

The plant will make its leaves bright red in direct sunshine, but it would be best if it had some shade during the warmest portion of the day. Complete shadow is not advised since the plant may develop in an odd shape as it bends toward the sun.

You should fertilize your Flapjack succulents in the spring and summer. Succulents should not be overfed due to their sluggish rate of growth, thus if you intend to use a general fertilizer, make sure to diluted it to half strength. However, it is strongly advised to use a fertilizer designed especially for cacti and succulents.

My pancake plant is drooping; why?

You’ve finally obtained a Pilea peperomioides (hurrah! ), and you’re wondering what each and every minute detail is. Pilea Peperomioides, please join me: Q&A on troubleshooting

I’m delighted you’re here, hello! After my previous post on Pilea Peperomioides (How to Care for Pilea Peperomioides), in which my wonderful friend Morgan offered her knowledge of the matter, I received a ton of questions from all of you. That article is great! However, today I’m going to respond to some of your queries and assist you in troubleshooting a few of your issues. I had several of these questions myself. I was able to come up with these solutions after doing some study, speaking with my plant pals, and getting to know my plants. Let’s begin! (From now on, I’ll just refer to it as Pilea to save myself some typing.

A. It’s possible for leaves to curl. I’ve experienced it. There are a few things you can do to help this even when your plant is not dying. Curled leaves in certain plants may be a sign that the plant is drying up, but with Pileas, I think the reverse is true. Make sure you’re not watering too much. After allowing the soil to dry up, thoroughly water it. Make sure it has adequate filtered bright light as well. For your plant, choose an appropriate water/light combination. Curled top leaves can indicate too much sun, whereas curled bottom leaves can indicate too much water. Just in case, you can also check for bugs.

What’s up with some of the bottom leaves that are withering and dropping off?

A. Not to worry! With most plants, this occurs. Though it’s certainly a combination of factors, age seems to be the cause. Even if my plant is otherwise healthy, the oldest leaves—those on the bottom—can discolor and finally fall off. New ones will begin to grow as soon as it occurs. They won’t recover if they begin to turn yellow. You have two options: you can either pull it off or let it fall off naturally. Even though it’s annoying when it does, it appears to be common.

A. I doubt you have any bugs (although you should check just to be sure). Stomata (pores) on the leaves enable gas exchange. Through these pores, water vapor is also expelled. When the water vapor is discharged, I think these white deposits are a kind of mineral deposit. They have largely disappeared since I started using distilled water.

A. Several things could cause brown patches. In my situation, I think I overwatered and overfertilized. Don’t overfertilize because doing so will essentially cause a chemical burn. Let the soil air out before giving the pilea a thorough watering because pilea don’t like to be damp. In this case, “optimal method for my two piles (from different sources). Brown patches may also be caused by excessive direct sunlight (sun burn). They do require a lot of light, but it must be bright and filtered (although they can tolerate low light levels as well). Also possible are bugs. Check very closely for creepy crawlies.

A. Pilea had that in a way “Hang loosely, but if you see a noticeable droop, just give it a good watering. Check to see whether you are overwatering if you usually water. Root rot may result from over watering, and drooping leaves may be a sign of root rot.

  • Every Pilea Peperomioides is unique. I have two, and they both behave extremely differently. They come from two distinct sources.
  • Learn what your Pilea needs. Due to environmental circumstances, they will vary.
  • Avoid overwatering! For most new Pilea parents, this is their biggest issue. Not as much water as we believe they require.
  • If your Pilea was transported, it most likely underwent some stress and will require some time to adjust. Relax; with the right attention, it should adjust without issue.
  • I’m sorry, but I can’t sell you any Pilea. I have two who have not yet given birth. Most likely, I won’t ever sell any (unless I have a large amount). Many of my pals have been looking for them, and I’ll give them to them first. But if I do have any, you’ll all be the first to know.
  • I’m not aware of any sources right now. Every time I check eBay and Etsy, I occasionally find them listed. Please follow along as I will always publish any available on Instagram!
  • If you do have Pilea and require shipping instructions, I have them here.
  • When I’m doing a lot of plants at once, I use this fertilizer for my plants. However, I buy Miracle Grow Pump Plant Food because it includes a pump and makes it really simple to feed individual plants. Observe the instructions on the bottle. In the spring and summer, I do it twice.
  • One Pilea is currently in a glazed 4-pot, and the other is in a stoneware mug I found for cheap and drilled a drainage hole in. Drainage IS REQUIRED!