In order for a plant’s actively growing roots to have enough time to grow into newly added potting soil, the optimal time to repot it is in the spring. There are a number of indications that a houseplant is pot-bound.
When should indoor plants be moved?
The majority of houseplants can thrive for years in the same container. However, some quickly expanding species, like philodendron or pothos, may overflow their container and require repotting every few years. When the roots of a plant start to protrude through the drainage holes, it is usually time for a new pot. If water flows straight through the pot and out the drainage holes whenever you add moisture, that is another warning indicator.
Of course, some plants, like orchids and snake plants, don’t mind small spaces, but even they eventually require a new location as their roots entwine.
In general, the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing are the optimum times to repot your houseplant. Although it’s best to do it at least three to four weeks before bringing the plant indoors for the winter, you can also transplant plants in the fall. Your plant should adjust to its new container while it is still enjoying its summer break.
Check the roots of the plant after gently removing it from the pot. It’s time for an upgrade if they are knotted, firmly encircling the interior of the pot, or if a lot of the dirt is disappearing. Choose a container that is an inch or two wider than the one your plant is now in.
Pick the new pot wisely. Clay (terra-cotta) pots have a lovely appearance but are permeable, causing the soil to dry up more quickly. They are ideal for plants like succulents, cactus, orchids, ponytail palms, and snake plants that prefer quick drainage. In order to prevent them from sucking the water out of the soil, it is best to soak them in water for a few hours before planting. Use plastic containers with tropical houseplants like ferns, African violets, anthuriums, and spathiphyllum because they retain soil moisture longer. However, regardless of the kind of pot you use, make sure it has a hole in the bottom to let extra water drain out. Use a pot that is approximately two inches wider than the one your plant is currently in.
Use a high-quality commercial potting soil made for indoor plants; some soil blends are even available for particular plant species, such cacti or African violets. Useless to utilize garden soil. The ideal soil should be fluffy and light, with plenty of sterilized organic matter and compost to help retain moisture. Cheap potting soil may be excessively heavy and retain too much moisture, so it’s not always a good deal.
Soil should be added to the pot until the plant’s crown (where the roots meet the stem) is at the same height as it was growing before. To remove air pockets, gently compact the dirt around the roots and water. After planting, include a saucer to collect runoff. At this time, don’t feed your plants. In fact, you might want to wait until early spring to fertilize if you are repotting in the fall. Additionally, remember that a lot of potting soils already contain fertilizer, so you shouldn’t worry too much about feeding your plants right immediately.
Can indoor plants be potted in the winter?
As they mature, plants prefer to be potted up into bigger containers. More dirt can feed the root systems in larger containers. Years of growing in a pot can cause plants to become root-bound, which can result in death. The opportunity to repot indoor plants in the winter allows the ardent gardener to avoid frostbite on their thumbs!
If you notice roots on the surface of your pots, that is a sign that your plant needs to be replanted. Another indication is the presence of roots emerging from the drainage holes at the base of your containers. Another indication that your plants are root-bound is slow growth. Look to check if the roots are wrapping around the pot’s edge. Repotting your plant is necessary if the roots are swirling around the rootball.
Make sure the pot you choose matches the decor in your house and is the right size for the plant. If you’re repotting, avoid using large pots. Generally speaking, you should make the present container two inches bigger. The roots may rot if the new pot is too large and can contain too much water. To allow water to permeate the soil, ensure that the containers include drainage holes. Choose a saucer that matches the new pot to protect your carpet or hardwood flooring.
As the planting media, use a premium potting soil blend that has been fertilized. For the majority of indoor plants, the potting soils from Espoma Organic are good choices.
Use the following tips to make repotting easy:
- Remove the plant from its current container. To dislodge the plant, you might need to run a knife or trowel along the side.
- If the roots are coiled, pull them apart or, if they are very root-bound, trim them.
- After placing the plant in the center of the new pot and filling it with quality potting soil, add soil to the bottom of the pot.
- Water thoroughly to moisten the roots and settle the soil.
After being replanted, it is normal for the plant to experience shock. While the plant heals, try to keep it out of direct sunlight for a few weeks and maintain a consistent moisture level in the soil.
When is it not advisable to repot plants?
Even though your houseplant is relatively new, you’re wondering if it needs to be repotted because it seems a little large for its current container. After all, the plant can’t continue to grow in the original pot, can it? Upgrade time must have come, but the question is: when?
My new indoor plants: should I repot them? Repot your new houseplant as soon as you get it if you’re adamant on doing so. The likelihood is high that you do not yet need to repot your plant if you have had it for less than a year. Some plants can survive for up to 18 months or more without needing a new pot. Repotting a plant too frequently can cause stress, which can cause wilting, leaf drop, and browning at the leaf tips. Proceed with caution!
Do plant pots used indoors require a hole in the bottom?
Plant roots don’t prefer to stay in water, with the exception of a few aquatic species. They must exchange carbon dioxide and oxygen with the surrounding air, because too much water seals up the soil’s air spaces. Without drainage holes, plants in containers are more likely to become overwatered. The soil at the bottom of the pot may be drenched with water even if the soil surface appears to be dry.
Root rot, a dangerous ailment that can quickly kill your plants, can result from waterlogged soil. Yellow leaves, wilted leaves that don’t recover after watering, and leaf drop are symptoms of root rot. The roots of the plant may be sticky, mushy, or black or brown if you take it out of the container.
To avoid salt buildup in the potting soil, it’s also important to make sure that pots have enough holes. Salts in fertilizers and tap water can damage plants. Some of the salts are excreted by plant roots along with the water, and over time, these salts build up in the soil. Salts are flushed out of the soil when you water deeply and allow the water to escape through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
Without drainage holes, salts are never eliminated from the soil; instead, they just keep accumulating, giving your plants an unhealthy environment. If salts do accumulate in your potting soil, you might notice that the plant’s leaves are becoming brown at the tips and margins or that a salt crust has formed on top of the dirt.
To prevent dripping on the furniture or floor, many homeowners store their indoor plants in saucers while they are not in use. This is acceptable, but watch out for water that may collect in the saucer and wick back into the potting soil. Make careful to frequently empty the water from each saucer. Another option is to water your plants in the kitchen sink, move them back to the saucers once they drain, and then do it again.
How can you tell whether a plant needs to be repotted?
Although repotting your plants may seem difficult, we have some advice to help you succeed.
First things first: repotting refers to replacing the soil or potting mix, not necessarily the planter that it is now in. The nutrients in new soil are new. This is fantastic news if you adore your present planter, but it’s also okay if you want to get a new one or your plant has clearly outgrown its existing container. Try to choose a planter that is no more than 2″ larger in diameter for tabletop planters and no more than 4″ larger in diameter for floor planters when choosing a new one. Your new container might just need to be an inch larger if you’re repotting a really tiny plant! The size of your plant’s new home is crucial because we tend to give it more water in larger planters. Small plant in large planter with loads of soil and water results in unintentional dying. You want to give your plant some additional room to expand in the coming months rather than drowning it in soil.
Repotting should be done on average every 12 to 18 months, depending on how quickly the plant is developing. Some slow-growing plants, like cactus, can live for years in the same pot with only a soil resupply. The best time to repot your houseplants is typically in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season.
If you notice one or more of these indicators, you’ll know it’s time to report:
1. The grow pot or planter’s drainage hole(s) are being penetrated by roots 2. The plant’s roots are almost pushing it out of the planter. 3. The plant’s growth is significantly slower than usual (different than winter dormancy) 4. The plant is quite top-heavy and is prone to falling over. 5. The potting soil dries out the plant faster than before, necessitating more frequent waterings. 6. The plant’s foliage is larger than its present planter by more than three times. 7. The plant or planter has a pronounced salt and mineral buildup 8. You haven’t repotted your plant in more than a year.
What you’ll need on hand is as follows:
Of course, whether it is a new or existing factory.
The container you’re using for planting (if reusing a container, make sure to thoroughly rinse the inside first)
new potting soil
If your planter does not have a drainage hole, use lava rocks or something similar.
If you’re touching a plant like a Ficus elastica that has unpleasant sap, wear gloves.
a water bottle, a sink faucet, or a watering can
a newspaper, sheet for pots, or surface that is simple to clean
1. Take the plant out of the pot or planter it is currently in. Your plant will slide out of its current container if you grip it firmly by the stems or leaves while turning it sideways and tapping the bottom of the container. With a few little tugs on the stems’ bases, you might need to assist it a little.
2. Take the roots out. Use your hands to gently loosen the plant’s roots. Make sure to keep the thicker roots at the base of the leaves and cut any extra-long threadlike roots. Unbind the roots as much as you can and give them a trim if your plant is root-bound (the roots are growing in very small circles around the base of the plant).
3. Get rid of the old potting soil Remove at least a third of the old potting soil that is encircling the plant’s roots. You should give your plant new potting soil or mix because as it grew, it may have consumed all or part of the nutrients in the old mixture.
4. Include fresh potting soil Fresh potting soil should be added to the empty planter, and it should be packed down to eliminate any air pockets. Before adding the potting mix, layer the bottom of the planter with lava rocks or something comparable (rocks, gravel, etc.) if it has a drainage hole. The idea is to carve out areas for the additional water to collect in and flow away from the roots of your plant.
5. Include a plant. Make sure your plant is centered before placing it on top of the newly added layer of soil in the planter. Then, pour extra potting soil all around the plant to secure it. You want the roots to have room to breathe, so avoid packing the planter with too much soil.
Water and pleasure. The potting soil should be evened out, then water well. It’s important to remember that a plant that has just been re-potted doesn’t require fertilizer.
How should indoor plants be winterized?
Your indoor plants might benefit from upkeep in the fall so they are refreshed for spring.
- Your plants must be brought inside before the overnight low temperature falls below 45 degrees (F). At temperatures below 40 degrees, and for some tropical plants even below 50 degrees, harm will occur.
- Before bringing plants back inside, check them for pests and diseases and apply the relevant treatments. Insects can be removed from the soil by soaking the pot in a tub of lukewarm water for about 10 minutes. Take a shower before bringing your plants inside. Spray the leaves from the undersides as well, using your garden hose’s mist or shower setting.
- Repot plants into bigger containers if necessary, ensuring sure to go one size up.
- For instance, 4 inches to 6 inches and 6 inches to 8 inches.
- Use a pair of razor-sharp scissors or other handheld pruning tools to remove any dead leaves or branches.
- Expose plants progressively to lower illumination levels before bringing indoor houseplants back inside to avoid shock. If plants are in a sunny location, transfer them into bright shade a few weeks before the move is scheduled to take place. It is extremely typical for the plant to lose a few leaves after being brought inside. Don’t freak out if this happens; it’s natural!
- The majority of houseplants, with the exception of African Violets, won’t require fertilizing over the winter.
Wilson’s, one of the largest garden centers in central Ohio, began as a modest farm market in 1958. We have greenhouses covering more than 2 acres that are always stocked with annuals, perennials, shrubs, herbs, fruits, veggies, indoor plants, and more. Many of the plants we sell are grown right here on the premises. Additionally, for the previous ten years, we have won the Consumer’s Choice Award for Central Ohio.