While regular trimming of discolored and unsightly foliage can be done at any time, spring or summer are the optimum times to carry out severe pruning. During repotting, when plants can be drastically reduced in size, pruning is appropriate. In reality, Boston fern benefits from harsh pruning, which promotes vigorous, bushy growth and corrects lanky, dull growth.
Always use well-kept, razor-sharp pruning shears or scissors while pruning Boston ferns. You might wish to relocate the plants outside or lay an old sheet down in the area to catch the cuttings because trimming can be nasty.
When pruning Boston fern, avoid cropping the plant’s top. Trim the base of the side fronds instead. To make room for new growth, remove any old, discolored fronds that are close to the earth. Additionally, trim the base of the ugly stems. The remaining portion of the plant can be shaped by trimming it along the margins. Similarly, if necessary, you can decide to chop the entire plant right down to the ground.
Can you prune a fern indoors?
Indoor ferns can have their wilted fronds pruned at any time of the year, regardless of the weather. On a cool, cloudy day, lightly prune outside ferns; do not prune ferns on hot, dry days. The plant is less stressed as a result of this.
Should ferns in pots be pruned back?
These plants come in a variety of sizes and shapes, but the most can grow fairly large. Boston ferns frequently need to be pruned back in order to keep their vigor.
When ought fern to be pruned?
Ferns don’t blossom, but their distinctive shapes and textures add a lot of aesthetic appeal to the garden even without flowers. They create a stunning, varied-interest garden bed when combined with blooming evergreen groundcovers, and should require very little maintenance throughout the gardening season.
Ferns are among the oldest living things on earth, and they range in size from compact groundcovers like the Alpine Water Fern (Blechnum penna-marina) to tall tropical trees. Finding ferns that are indigenous to your area will boost your gardening success rate, even if these are lovely and are available in many nurseries. Native ferns from North America, such as Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum) and Deer Fern (Blechnum spicant), are excellent choices for evergreen arrangements with a variety of heights, textures, and lovely year-round interest.
Ferns are frequently blamed by gardeners for looking dirty or being difficult to prune. The fronds of many evergreen ferns only endure about a year; they aren’t termed leaves on ferns. The older fronds eventually wither and turn brown, but they continue to be interlaced with the more recent growth. And that’s what makes a mess that’s challenging to clean up in the midst of so many other living fronds.
Pruning evergreen ferns
Cut all of your fern’s fronds to the ground in late winter or early spring to prevent a jumbled mess. Each plant should resemble a little, curled fist when all of the fronds have been removed. As the spring days become longer, each of those fists will unfold tiny fronds, creating a brand-new plant for the remainder of the year.
You can prevent the issue of accidentally snapping off tender, new growth as you cut by making the cuts at the end of winter and right before the spring growth spurt starts. Additionally, you won’t have to deal with brown, dried-out fronds because you will have enjoyed the fronds from the previous year from the time they burst forth in the spring all the way through the winter. Additionally, cut-down plants will only be visible for a few weeks before sprouting gorgeous new growth for the coming year.
Pruning evergreen groundcovers
The same strategy should be used: Cut back on last year’s growth at the end of winter, before new growth emerges and before the old growth turns brown.
Go ahead and trim your neighboring evergreen groundcovers while you’re out pruning those evergreen ferns. Cutting back groundcovers like Vinca minor and epimediums in the late winter will also reveal all of their small, delicious spring blossoms, which are frequently buried beneath layers of older foliage.
Mowing is an option in some gardens because Vinca’s flowers bloom on the growth that is closest to the ground. On Epimediums, the blooms emerge from the soil, so you don’t have to be concerned that trimming back right before blooming may destroy the flowers.
Watch closely and be sure to clip the plants before the flower heads start to enlarge. These plants will reward you with a new garden painting of weed-repelling groundcover to enjoy for the upcoming year after you have enjoyed their magnificent carpet of blooms.
What happens if ferns aren’t pruned back?
As long as the fern is healthy, leaving old fronds in place won’t cause any harm.
The fronds of outdoor ferns will gradually die back, acting as a natural mulch and shield for the crown. New fronds will outgrow the older leaves on indoor ferns, forming a scruffy collar around the edge of the crown (and pot).
Therefore, cutting away old fronds is primarily done for cosmetic reasons. Removing the dead material makes the healthy new growth more noticeable because it might be ugly. Although it’s a matter of preference, most people do like their plants to seem classy and well-kept.
Why is my fern becoming crispy and brown?
At the end of the Fall season, trim the leaves back when they begin to brown since they are unable to photosynthesize anymore. This neatens up the fern’s appearance and enables you to mulch the fern’s underground rhizomes with compost to help keep them warm over the winter. The fern should recover healthily the following spring.
When growing ferns in sandy soil that dries out too fast after rain or irrigation, add heaps of compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to the planting area.
These three materials all have a porous structure that allows extra water to flow away from the roots, preventing root rot even though they retain a lot of moisture.
As ferns cannot withstand excessive amounts of direct sunshine, always plant them in locations with shade or some filtered light. Either move the fern to a more shaded area or grow additional trees or bushes to provide shade.
Key Takeaways:
- Low humidity and drowning lead fern leaves to become brown. Ferns are tropical plants that require high levels of humidity. Indoor humidity is frequently too low, which causes the leaves to lose moisture and turn brown, crispy, dried out, and look to be dying.
- Due to submersion, fern tips become brown. The soil must be continually damp, but not saturated, for ferns to grow. The fern’s leaves get brown and crispy at the tips if the soil dries up in between waterings because there isn’t enough moisture surrounding the roots.
- Smaller pots dry up faster. Because ferns require continually moist soil, their leaves will turn brown and brittle and will appear to be dying if the potting soil dries out. Because ferns often have large, shallow root systems, they can easily become pot-bound in small pots, which can turn their leaves brown.
- In much sunshine, fern leaves oxidize and turn brown. Ferns may survive in either complete shade or partial light beneath a woodland canopy. The delicate leaves become crispy and brown in full sun, appearing to be dying.
- If the temperature is above 80F for a prolonged period of time, indoor ferns may turn brown. Ferns prefer temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The ferns’ leaves become brown and crispy and appear to be dying in high temperatures because the leaves lose too much moisture and the soil dries out too quickly for the roots to pull in moisture.
- In the Fall, just before Winter, outdoor ferns naturally turn brown and appear to be dying. The following Spring, the fern sprouts fresh, green leaves. If the ground is too dry or there is too much sun, outdoor ferns may also turn brown. To keep its leaves from turning brown, outdoor ferns need moist soil and shade.
- Use a humidifier to raise the humidity, water as often as necessary to keep the coil consistently moist, stay away from drafts and indoor heating, place the fern in an area with indirect light, make sure the temperature is between 65°F and 75°F, and cut back brown leaves to encourage the growth of new green leaves in order to save ferns with brown leaves.
Can a fern be cut in half?
The spring season is the ideal time to divide ferns. To separate a fern, you must first dig up the clump or remove it from its previous container. Shake as much soil as you can loose once it has been removed with a brush. Given that ferns frequently have very compact, interconnecting root balls, it might not be much.
Next, cut the root ball into halves or quarters using a long serrated knife. Make sure leaves are attached to each part, and try to maintain a balance in the amount of leaves. Fern roots can be difficult to cut through and may require some effort, but the plant is resilient.
Once your fern has been divided into sections, transfer each piece to a different pot or garden area and fill it with well-draining soil that retains some water but is also preferably grit- and organic matter-rich. While the plants are establishing, water each section thoroughly and continue to water more frequently than usual.
Why are my fern’s leaves going brown?
Many of the inquiries we receive regarding ferns focus on their brown foliage. Fern leaves may become brown for a variety of reasons. The majority of them are not serious and are simple to solve.
Let’s begin with the most typical. It’s quite natural and indicates that your plant is doing well if the bottom of your fern has brown leaves but the top is green. New growth emerges from the center for almost all fern species. The older leaves at the bottom will drop off as new growth emerges. Just cut any brown ones off at the base.
Your fern could not be receiving enough moisture if you’re noticing a lot of brown leaves. Check them frequently and water them if the soil ever seems dry because they prefer their soil to be lightly damp but not soggy. Use the finger-dip test to determine whether someone needs to drink something. If you detect moisture, they are currently in good condition; you can recheck them in a few days.
For ferns, humidity is extremely crucial. They will become crispy if the air is too dry. Try misting your fern more if it has a brown appearance all over and watch to see if it gets better over the next few weeks. Even better, put it in the bathroom where it can take advantage of the shower’s steam.
Furthermore, keep in mind that ferns are accustomed to living in the shade of larger trees. They weren’t designed to sit in the sun. Yours can be drying out in the sun if it’s directly near to a window. Place it in a darker area. Keep them away from hot radiators and chilly windows, just like you would with any other indoor plant.
The last thing to keep in mind is that most ferns, especially Venus, our maidenhair fern, are delicate to touch. Their leaves appear to be strokable, but the more you stroke them, the more they bleed, turning them brown. Just try to stand back and admire them.
What do fern fronds represent?
Ferns’ leaves are frequently referred to as fronds. Typically, fronds consist of a petiole and a leafy blade (leaf stalk). From species to species, there are significant differences in leaf complexity, size, texture, and form.
The blade can be separated into parts called pinnae, which are solitary leaflets. Pinnules are the smallest segments of the pinna, which can be further split.
Light
The amount of light needed varies depending on the season. They benefit from bright indirect light in the fall and winter. That denotes a distance of roughly 5 from a window with a southward facing. They enjoy a lot of diffused light.
It gets harder in the spring and summer because of the stronger light. They require a position with filtered sunlight because they can’t stand direct sunshine for too long. In general, shady areas under trees and windows with a northern exposure that get indirect light are beneficial. It’s also wonderful if your house offers protection from the sun.
Do not assume that they have no need for light. The recommended amount of indirect light each day is two hours!
Water
How often should Boston ferns be watered? That depends on their surroundings, I suppose. Once the top inch or two of soil is dry, you should begin watering it if you’re growing it inside. To keep the fronds dry, water at the soil’s surface.
You can put a tray with stones and water in it beneath the container if they seem to want additional humidity. Doing so will keep your ferns healthy and lush. Give your hanging-potted fern an occasional light sprinkling with a mister bottle.
The optimal time to water plants that are grown outdoors is when the top inch of soil is dry. They prefer high humidity levels, but it is more challenging to achieve this during the warmer months. To assist maintain a little moisture in the soil and create a warm, humid climate, I advise mulching the area around the base of your plants. It shouldn’t be bone-dry, but you also don’t want it to be wet.
The roots of Boston ferns may be shocked by extremely cold water, which is an unusual feature. If your water is chilly, try letting it sit in a bucket or watering can for a little while so that it can warm up.
Soil
Ferns do benefit from a rich soil mixture because they frequently grow in tropical regions. They don’t necessarily require one, though. These plants can benefit from good drainage provided by a combination of peat moss, sand, and high-quality potting soil, which can nevertheless retain enough water to keep the soil moist. If you have access to compost, add a small amount of that to your soil mixture as well. Ferns do benefit from a soil that is abundant in plant matter.
Fertilizer
Apply a liquid formula. You can choose a commercial houseplant fertilizer that has been diluted to half its typical strength, or you can choose an organic option like liquid kelp. In order to avoid scorching the fronds of the fern, fertilizer should be sprayed near the base of the plant.
Propagation
The plant will send forth runners, which will eventually become roots. Stolons are the name for these runners. These can be taken out from the old plant’s base and replanted in sterile potting soil. From the stolon, a new plant will grow.
Boston ferns can also be divided as an alternative. To accomplish this, wait longer than usual until the earth is completely dry. This will also give the root system a chance to slightly dry out. Take the plant out of its container or carefully remove it from the ground. The fern’s root ball should next be divided in two using a serrated knife. If you want more plants to grow, you can cut it into quarters or eighths from there. The fresh ferns should be repotted, with moisture but not wetness.
Repotting
Use sterile, well-draining potting soil if you are beginning a runner in a new pot or replacing a clipping from an older plant. This can prevent weed seeds that may be present in older soil from overwhelming your young plant as it grows.
Unless you want your Boston fern to grow larger, you usually don’t need to repot it. Over time, the roots will fill the pot to the point that it is too crowded. It’s best to divide it at that point every few years to allow it to grow new roots.
Pruning
Pruning isn’t necessary much for them. To encourage the development of new leaves, older leaves might be removed from the plant’s base. Additionally, this aids in cleaning up leaves that may be browning or otherwise looking worse for wear. Boston fern pruning typically has more to do with aesthetics than plant care.