Although repotting your plants may seem difficult, we have some advice to help you succeed.
First things first: repotting refers to replacing the soil or potting mix, not necessarily the planter that it is now in. The nutrients in new soil are new. This is fantastic news if you adore your present planter, but it’s also okay if you want to get a new one or your plant has clearly outgrown its existing container. Try to choose a planter that is no more than 2″ larger in diameter for tabletop planters and no more than 4″ larger in diameter for floor planters when choosing a new one. Your new container might just need to be an inch larger if you’re repotting a really tiny plant! The size of your plant’s new home is crucial because we tend to give it more water in larger planters. Small plant in large planter with loads of soil and water results in unintentional dying. You want to give your plant some additional room to expand in the coming months rather than drowning it in soil.
Repotting should be done on average every 12 to 18 months, depending on how quickly the plant is developing. Some slow-growing plants, like cactus, can live for years in the same pot with only a soil resupply. The best time to repot your houseplants is typically in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season.
If you notice one or more of these indicators, you’ll know it’s time to report:
1. The grow pot or planter’s drainage hole(s) are being penetrated by roots 2. The plant’s roots are almost pushing it out of the planter. 3. The plant’s growth is significantly slower than usual (different than winter dormancy) 4. The plant is quite top-heavy and is prone to falling over. 5. The potting soil dries out the plant faster than before, necessitating more frequent waterings. 6. The plant’s foliage is larger than its present planter by more than three times. 7. The plant or planter has a pronounced salt and mineral buildup 8. You haven’t repotted your plant in more than a year.
What you’ll need on hand is as follows:
Of course, whether it is a new or existing factory.
The container you’re using for planting (if reusing a container, make sure to thoroughly rinse the inside first)
new potting soil
If your planter does not have a drainage hole, use lava rocks or something similar.
If you’re touching a plant like a Ficus elastica that has unpleasant sap, wear gloves.
a water bottle, a sink faucet, or a watering can
a newspaper, sheet for pots, or surface that is simple to clean
1. Take the plant out of the pot or planter it is currently in. Your plant will slide out of its current container if you grip it firmly by the stems or leaves while turning it sideways and tapping the bottom of the container. With a few little tugs on the stems’ bases, you might need to assist it a little.
2. Take the roots out. Use your hands to gently loosen the plant’s roots. Make sure to keep the thicker roots at the base of the leaves and cut any extra-long threadlike roots. Unbind the roots as much as you can and give them a trim if your plant is root-bound (the roots are growing in very small circles around the base of the plant).
3. Get rid of the old potting soil Remove at least a third of the old potting soil that is encircling the plant’s roots. You should give your plant new potting soil or mix because as it grew, it may have consumed all or part of the nutrients in the old mixture.
4. Include fresh potting soil Fresh potting soil should be added to the empty planter, and it should be packed down to eliminate any air pockets. Before adding the potting mix, layer the bottom of the planter with lava rocks or something comparable (rocks, gravel, etc.) if it has a drainage hole. The idea is to carve out areas for the additional water to collect in and flow away from the roots of your plant.
5. Include a plant. Make sure your plant is centered before placing it on top of the newly added layer of soil in the planter. Then, pour extra potting soil all around the plant to secure it. You want the roots to have room to breathe, so avoid packing the planter with too much soil.
Water and pleasure. The potting soil should be evened out, then water well. It’s important to remember that a plant that has just been re-potted doesn’t require fertilizer.
When should indoor plants be moved?
The majority of houseplants can thrive for years in the same container. However, some quickly expanding species, like philodendron or pothos, may overflow their container and require repotting every few years. When the roots of a plant start to protrude through the drainage holes, it is usually time for a new pot. If water flows straight through the pot and out the drainage holes whenever you add moisture, that is another warning indicator.
Of course, some plants, like orchids and snake plants, don’t mind small spaces, but even they eventually require a new location as their roots entwine.
In general, the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing are the optimum times to repot your houseplant. Although it’s best to do it at least three to four weeks before bringing the plant indoors for the winter, you can also transplant plants in the fall. Your plant should adjust to its new container while it is still enjoying its summer break.
Check the roots of the plant after gently removing it from the pot. It’s time for an upgrade if they are knotted, firmly encircling the interior of the pot, or if a lot of the dirt is disappearing. Choose a container that is an inch or two wider than the one your plant is now in.
Pick the new pot wisely. Clay (terra-cotta) pots have a lovely appearance but are permeable, causing the soil to dry up more quickly. They are ideal for plants like succulents, cactus, orchids, ponytail palms, and snake plants that prefer quick drainage. In order to prevent them from sucking the water out of the soil, it is best to soak them in water for a few hours before planting. Use plastic containers with tropical houseplants like ferns, African violets, anthuriums, and spathiphyllum because they retain soil moisture longer. However, regardless of the kind of pot you use, make sure it has a hole in the bottom to let extra water drain out. Use a pot that is approximately two inches wider than the one your plant is currently in.
Use a high-quality commercial potting soil made for indoor plants; some soil blends are even available for particular plant species, such cacti or African violets. Useless to utilize garden soil. The ideal soil should be fluffy and light, with plenty of sterilized organic matter and compost to help retain moisture. Cheap potting soil may be excessively heavy and retain too much moisture, so it’s not always a good deal.
Soil should be added to the pot until the plant’s crown (where the roots meet the stem) is at the same height as it was growing before. To remove air pockets, gently compact the dirt around the roots and water. After planting, include a saucer to collect runoff. At this time, don’t feed your plants. In fact, you might want to wait until early spring to fertilize if you are repotting in the fall. Additionally, remember that a lot of potting soils already contain fertilizer, so you shouldn’t worry too much about feeding your plants right immediately.
How can plants be moved without getting hurt?
It’s true that you don’t have to leave your garden behind just because you’re moving.
There are a lot of reasons why you might desire to relocate your garden. You might wish to move your tomatoes and other veggies inside your new greenhouse before October arrives if you recently bought one. Maybe you recently purchased a new house and want to move your beloved perennials to the new landscaping. You can also just wish to plant potted plants in the ground.
Whatever the cause, you feel the need to relocate your garden from its current site. You shouldn’t do this without first doing some research. Get your hoes, wheel barrels, and expanding hoses ready, people; moving a garden successfully involves many steps. Now let’s go!
If you are able, choose the season you move
Never expose the roots to wind, heat, or sunlight. The roots of plants can quickly dry out if you take them out of their pots and set them where you want them in the garden. Just before planting, remove each plant.
Any other time is preferable, provided you aren’t relocating into a snow paradise. Of course, there are advice we’ll provide along the way to safeguard your garden’s safety if you’re forced to move it in the middle of the summer.
Mark where everything is going to go first
Whatever the new location of your garden, make sure the planting areas are prepared before you start digging and moving things around. In other words, make it clear visually what is going into them to prevent confusion. Make sure the dirt is prepared at the bottom of larger pots if you wish to plant them there so that the transfer will happen smoothly. On the other hand, if you are planting straight into the ground, ensure sure your planting areas are already dug out and sufficiently large before anything is removed.
We advise soaking these areas in water before relocating the plants if you are doing it during the summer heat. After the shock of being uprooted, the roots will want hydration.
Create a temporary nursery for your plants by digging trenches if you are unsure of where you want to plant.
Pot, bucket or burlap: get the transportation ready
Skip this step if you are transferring your garden from one pot to another or if you are putting your potted plants in the ground. However, you will need mobile containers if you plan to relocate your garden from one house to another. Burlap should be used to transport the root ball if simple buckets or pots are unavailable. Making ensuring the shipment goes as smoothly as possible is vital because the shock of moving is enough to damage a lot of plants.
Use a special watering schedule for soon-to-be in-transit plants
It’s critical to correctly hydrate your plants while they’re being transported. Not to mention that irrigated plants can be pulled out with their roots intact more easily.
The night before you intend to transfer your garden, you should water it so that the plants will be properly hydrated. This enables them to maintain what is known as “the shock of travel.
Second, give the roots plenty of water; soak them well! In the unlikely event that you have plants with bare roots (or “Before being replanted, the bottoms of these plants must be immersed in water for two to three hours (naked roots). Just a few typical bare-root plants to watch out for are listed below:
- Shrubs
- Hosta
- Daylilies
- Roses
- tree fruit
- Wild Onion
Trim excess stems
It is advised that you remove any stems or foliage that is dead or has too much. This will lessen any stress that your plant may feel. However, not all plants really require this, so use your best judgment!
Dig up using the drip line
It’s time to remove those plants now. But you shouldn’t dig around the plant’s roots. A healthy root could be chopped up if you do that! Instead, use a hand shovel and carefully dig a ring around the plant’s main stem, taking note of the location of the roots. The drip line, often known as the spot where your plant drops water onto the ground, is a fantastic place to dig up plants.
The ring you dig around larger plants needs to be at least 6 inches deep. Any size plant will likely have some of its roots clipped when you begin digging around it. This is acceptable, but make sure the incisions are precise and not torn.
Use a bigger shovel (or several, for larger plants) to push them out of the way once the ring has been dug. The soil around the root ball will act as protection, so don’t shake it or take any of it out. Prepare your plants for their final destinations by placing them on their delivery vehicles!
What kind of potting soil is used for indoor plants?
Use a combination of plastic pots and peat-based compost when it’s time to repot your plant. Of course, the needs of the plant will determine this. To prevent the clay pot from sucking water from the compost, soak it for a day before using it.
Although there are many different pot sizes available, you often only need four or five. The 6 cm, 8 cm, 13 cm, 18 cm, and 25 cm sizes are the most often used measurements. As your watering space, you should always leave enough room between the pot’s rim and the compost’s surface. Because bigger pots may accommodate bigger plants, which need more water, it should grow along with the size of your pot.
You must top-dress the compost when one of your houseplants is in a sizable pot and cannot be replanted. This means that you must take out the top 1 to 1 1/2 inches (2.5–4 cm) of the old compost and replace it with new compost. A space should be left between the top of the compost and the pot’s rim so that the plant can be watered without damaging its roots.
How long does a houseplant need to recover after a transplant?
This can differ greatly. For many smaller plants, it only takes a few weeks for them to fully recover. It may take months or even years for larger plants or trees to recover completely from transplant shock.
With proper care, a straightforward case of wilting after repotting can be cured, and frequently the plant shows no more indications of damage. Dead or damaged foliage may result from a more serious condition. Although this does not fully recover, new, healthy foliage will eventually take its place.