How To Repot A Houseplant

Although repotting your plants may seem difficult, we have some advice to help you succeed.

First things first: repotting refers to replacing the soil or potting mix, not necessarily the planter that it is now in. The nutrients in new soil are new. This is fantastic news if you adore your present planter, but it’s also okay if you want to get a new one or your plant has clearly outgrown its existing container. Try to choose a planter that is no more than 2″ larger in diameter for tabletop planters and no more than 4″ larger in diameter for floor planters when choosing a new one. Your new container might just need to be an inch larger if you’re repotting a really tiny plant! The size of your plant’s new home is crucial because we tend to give it more water in larger planters. Small plant in large planter with loads of soil and water results in unintentional dying. You want to give your plant some additional room to expand in the coming months rather than drowning it in soil.

Repotting should be done on average every 12 to 18 months, depending on how quickly the plant is developing. Some slow-growing plants, like cactus, can live for years in the same pot with only a soil resupply. The best time to repot your houseplants is typically in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season.

If you notice one or more of these indicators, you’ll know it’s time to report:

1. The grow pot or planter’s drainage hole(s) are being penetrated by roots 2. The plant’s roots are almost pushing it out of the planter. 3. The plant’s growth is significantly slower than usual (different than winter dormancy) 4. The plant is quite top-heavy and is prone to falling over. 5. The potting soil dries out the plant faster than before, necessitating more frequent waterings. 6. The plant’s foliage is larger than its present planter by more than three times. 7. The plant or planter has a pronounced salt and mineral buildup 8. You haven’t repotted your plant in more than a year.

What you’ll need on hand is as follows:

Of course, whether it is a new or existing factory.

The container you’re using for planting (if reusing a container, make sure to thoroughly rinse the inside first)

new potting soil

If your planter does not have a drainage hole, use lava rocks or something similar.

If you’re touching a plant like a Ficus elastica that has unpleasant sap, wear gloves.

a water bottle, a sink faucet, or a watering can

a newspaper, sheet for pots, or surface that is simple to clean

1. Take the plant out of the pot or planter it is currently in. Your plant will slide out of its current container if you grip it firmly by the stems or leaves while turning it sideways and tapping the bottom of the container. With a few little tugs on the stems’ bases, you might need to assist it a little.

2. Take the roots out. Use your hands to gently loosen the plant’s roots. Make sure to keep the thicker roots at the base of the leaves and cut any extra-long threadlike roots. Unbind the roots as much as you can and give them a trim if your plant is root-bound (the roots are growing in very small circles around the base of the plant).

3. Get rid of the old potting soil Remove at least a third of the old potting soil that is encircling the plant’s roots. You should give your plant new potting soil or mix because as it grew, it may have consumed all or part of the nutrients in the old mixture.

4. Include fresh potting soil Fresh potting soil should be added to the empty planter, and it should be packed down to eliminate any air pockets. Before adding the potting mix, layer the bottom of the planter with lava rocks or something comparable (rocks, gravel, etc.) if it has a drainage hole. The idea is to carve out areas for the additional water to collect in and flow away from the roots of your plant.

5. Include a plant. Make sure your plant is centered before placing it on top of the newly added layer of soil in the planter. Then, pour extra potting soil all around the plant to secure it. You want the roots to have room to breathe, so avoid packing the planter with too much soil.

Water and pleasure. The potting soil should be evened out, then water well. It’s important to remember that a plant that has just been re-potted doesn’t require fertilizer.

What kind of potting soil is used for indoor plants?

Use a combination of plastic pots and peat-based compost when it’s time to repot your plant. Of course, the needs of the plant will determine this. To prevent the clay pot from sucking water from the compost, soak it for a day before using it.

Although there are many different pot sizes available, you often only need four or five. The 6 cm, 8 cm, 13 cm, 18 cm, and 25 cm sizes are the most often used measurements. As your watering space, you should always leave enough room between the pot’s rim and the compost’s surface. Because bigger pots may accommodate bigger plants, which need more water, it should grow along with the size of your pot.

You must top-dress the compost when one of your houseplants is in a sizable pot and cannot be replanted. This means that you must take out the top 1 to 1 1/2 inches (2.5–4 cm) of the old compost and replace it with new compost. A space should be left between the top of the compost and the pot’s rim so that the plant can be watered without damaging its roots.

When should indoor plants be repotted?

In order for a plant’s actively growing roots to have enough time to grow into newly added potting soil, the optimal time to repot it is in the spring. There are a number of indications that a houseplant is pot-bound. Check first how often you water the houseplant.

How can I tell whether I properly repotted my plant?

The last stage is really important. Plants that have recently been moved are under a little stress, so they require a lot of water straight quickly. Place your plant in its original pot or on a saucer, and water it slowly (I prefer to use the watering can’s rain head for a gentle, even soak, especially after I’ve transplanted a plant). Continue adding water and let everything soak in until the pot feels heavy to the touch and water begins to drain from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. If you want to check if the pot will absorb any of the drained water, you can let it sit on the saucer for about 30 minutes. Then, you can dump any extra.

Voil! Your plant has now been replanted! My Pothos plant is pictured here soaking up some afternoon haze. It immediately appears happier!

After purchasing, should I repot my indoor plants?

The first time you receive a plant, you probably don’t want to repot it. The experts concur that before moving a newly acquired plant from its original container to another, you should give it a few days or even weeks to get used to your environment.

You might want to consider putting your plant in a chic new planter that goes with your design. But according to Erin Marino, the head of brand marketing at The Sill, one of the main reasons you would want to repot a plant is to give it fresh soil.

Another rationale for repotting a plant, perhaps? It is root-bound if it has grown too large for its present potion. According to Richard Pham, manager of Little Shop of Soil in Bushwick, Brooklyn, if the plant’s roots have filled all available space and started to protrude through the bottom of the pot, it’s time for a new home.

Try to avoid repotting your plants too frequently because it might be unpleasant for them. Give the plant a voice. When it’s ready for a new home, it will let you know.

The following signs of root-bound and pot-bound plants should be on the lookout for, according to Pham: the roots are peeking out from the drainage holes, the plant can be lifted or dropped out of the pot with ease, you can see more roots than soil, the plant dries out more quickly than usual, or it has been more than a year since the plant was last repotted.

Try not to do it too frequently, Pham advised, as repotting is stressful for plants. “Let the plant communicate with you. When it’s ready for a new home, it will let you know.

Do plant pots used indoors require a hole in the bottom?

Plant roots don’t prefer to stay in water, with the exception of a few aquatic species. They must exchange carbon dioxide and oxygen with the surrounding air, because too much water seals up the soil’s air spaces. Without drainage holes, plants in containers are more likely to become overwatered. The soil at the bottom of the pot may be drenched with water even if the soil surface appears to be dry.

Root rot, a dangerous ailment that can quickly kill your plants, can result from waterlogged soil. Yellow leaves, wilted leaves that don’t recover after watering, and leaf drop are symptoms of root rot. The roots of the plant may be sticky, mushy, or black or brown if you take it out of the container.

To avoid salt buildup in the potting soil, it’s also important to make sure that pots have enough holes. Salts in fertilizers and tap water can damage plants. Some of the salts are excreted by plant roots along with the water, and over time, these salts build up in the soil. Salts are flushed out of the soil when you water deeply and allow the water to escape through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.

Without drainage holes, salts are never eliminated from the soil; instead, they just keep accumulating, giving your plants an unhealthy environment. If salts do accumulate in your potting soil, you might notice that the plant’s leaves are becoming brown at the tips and margins or that a salt crust has formed on top of the dirt.

To prevent dripping on the furniture or floor, many homeowners store their indoor plants in saucers while they are not in use. This is acceptable, but watch out for water that may collect in the saucer and wick back into the potting soil. Make careful to frequently empty the water from each saucer. Another option is to water your plants in the kitchen sink, move them back to the saucers once they drain, and then do it again.