Although repotting your plants may seem difficult, we have some advice to help you succeed.
First things first: repotting refers to replacing the soil or potting mix, not necessarily the planter that it is now in. The nutrients in new soil are new. This is fantastic news if you adore your present planter, but it’s also okay if you want to get a new one or your plant has clearly outgrown its existing container. Try to choose a planter that is no more than 2″ larger in diameter for tabletop planters and no more than 4″ larger in diameter for floor planters when choosing a new one. Your new container might just need to be an inch larger if you’re repotting a really tiny plant! The size of your plant’s new home is crucial because we tend to give it more water in larger planters. Small plant in large planter with loads of soil and water results in unintentional dying. You want to give your plant some additional room to expand in the coming months rather than drowning it in soil.
Repotting should be done on average every 12 to 18 months, depending on how quickly the plant is developing. Some slow-growing plants, like cactus, can live for years in the same pot with only a soil resupply. The best time to repot your houseplants is typically in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season.
If you notice one or more of these indicators, you’ll know it’s time to report:
1. The grow pot or planter’s drainage hole(s) are being penetrated by roots 2. The plant’s roots are almost pushing it out of the planter. 3. The plant’s growth is significantly slower than usual (different than winter dormancy) 4. The plant is quite top-heavy and is prone to falling over. 5. The potting soil dries out the plant faster than before, necessitating more frequent waterings. 6. The plant’s foliage is larger than its present planter by more than three times. 7. The plant or planter has a pronounced salt and mineral buildup 8. You haven’t repotted your plant in more than a year.
What you’ll need on hand is as follows:
Of course, whether it is a new or existing factory.
The container you’re using for planting (if reusing a container, make sure to thoroughly rinse the inside first)
new potting soil
If your planter does not have a drainage hole, use lava rocks or something similar.
If you’re touching a plant like a Ficus elastica that has unpleasant sap, wear gloves.
a water bottle, a sink faucet, or a watering can
a newspaper, sheet for pots, or surface that is simple to clean
1. Take the plant out of the pot or planter it is currently in. Your plant will slide out of its current container if you grip it firmly by the stems or leaves while turning it sideways and tapping the bottom of the container. With a few little tugs on the stems’ bases, you might need to assist it a little.
2. Take the roots out. Use your hands to gently loosen the plant’s roots. Make sure to keep the thicker roots at the base of the leaves and cut any extra-long threadlike roots. Unbind the roots as much as you can and give them a trim if your plant is root-bound (the roots are growing in very small circles around the base of the plant).
3. Get rid of the old potting soil Remove at least a third of the old potting soil that is encircling the plant’s roots. You should give your plant new potting soil or mix because as it grew, it may have consumed all or part of the nutrients in the old mixture.
4. Include fresh potting soil Fresh potting soil should be added to the empty planter, and it should be packed down to eliminate any air pockets. Before adding the potting mix, layer the bottom of the planter with lava rocks or something comparable (rocks, gravel, etc.) if it has a drainage hole. The idea is to carve out areas for the additional water to collect in and flow away from the roots of your plant.
5. Include a plant. Make sure your plant is centered before placing it on top of the newly added layer of soil in the planter. Then, pour extra potting soil all around the plant to secure it. You want the roots to have room to breathe, so avoid packing the planter with too much soil.
Water and pleasure. The potting soil should be evened out, then water well. It’s important to remember that a plant that has just been re-potted doesn’t require fertilizer.
When should houseplants be repotted?
In order for a plant’s actively growing roots to have enough time to grow into newly added potting soil, the optimal time to repot it is in the spring. There are a number of indications that a houseplant is pot-bound. Check first how often you water the houseplant.
After purchasing, should I repot my indoor plants?
The first time you receive a plant, you probably don’t want to repot it. The experts concur that before moving a newly acquired plant from its original container to another, you should give it a few days or even weeks to get used to your environment.
You might want to consider putting your plant in a chic new planter that goes with your design. But according to Erin Marino, the head of brand marketing at The Sill, one of the main reasons you would want to repot a plant is to give it fresh soil.
Another rationale for repotting a plant, perhaps? It is root-bound if it has grown too large for its present potion. According to Richard Pham, manager of Little Shop of Soil in Bushwick, Brooklyn, if the plant’s roots have filled all available space and started to protrude through the bottom of the pot, it’s time for a new home.
Try to avoid repotting your plants too frequently because it might be unpleasant for them. Give the plant a voice. When it’s ready for a new home, it will let you know.
The following signs of root-bound and pot-bound plants should be on the lookout for, according to Pham: the roots are peeking out from the drainage holes, the plant can be lifted or dropped out of the pot with ease, you can see more roots than soil, the plant dries out more quickly than usual, or it has been more than a year since the plant was last repotted.
Try not to do it too frequently, Pham advised, as repotting is stressful for plants. “Let the plant communicate with you. When it’s ready for a new home, it will let you know.
When repotting, should old soil be removed?
Although repotting houseplants may seem like a straightforward process, there is always a chance that the plants won’t thrive in their new environment. Making sure the plant’s roots are free of old dirt can prevent transplant shock.
When repotting, removing the old soil from the roots will eliminate salt buildup and guarantee that the roots are surrounded by fresh soil that is rich in minerals and nutrients. Before repotting, exposing the roots will provide a chance for root sterilization to get rid of any unwanted fungus or disease.
Plants growing in containers need to be occasionally replanted to maintain their health. Both the right time to repot a plant and the right way to do it safely should be understood.
Do you grow plants indoors in plastic containers?
All of us have witnessed it happen: a plant that was so lush and beautiful at the store rolls up and perishes when it is brought inside.
You might be apprehensive because of this concern or because you’ve killed enough houseplants that you don’t want to do it again, much less buy one for your mother on Mother’s Day. But the truth is that caring for houseplants need not be difficult.
According to Annette Goliti Gutierrez, co-owner of Potted, a houseplant-only shop in Atwater Village, and Jessica Lawrence, a horticulturist and indoor plant care instructor at Fig Earth Supply in Mount Washington, the majority of issues can be classified as either benign neglect or death by kindness.
According to Gutierrez, the major issue with benign neglecters is that they frequently forget—or perhaps they simply were unaware—that houseplants need regular watering, bright light, and a little bit of love to survive.
For instance, air plants are attractive and well-liked since they can survive in a dish without soil, “But if I had a dime for every time someone asked, “So we don’t need to water these,” I would have plenty of money.
said Gutierrez. “And I’m forced to respond, “Well, no, like all living things, even air plants need watering.”
(Sounds like you?) Check out these simple suggestions in Sunset for maintaining air plants.)
Lawrence and Gutierrez claim that houseplants typically pass away as a result of being too appreciated. The worst offenders? incorrect lighting, overwatering, and improper planting.
They claim that if you adhere to the straightforward guidelines listed below, keeping them alive is not difficult:
Don’t be too quick to move them
Most houseplants were grown in greenhouses before being uprooted from their ideal surroundings and placed in shops until you came along, according to Lawrence “As a result, they are anxious when you bring them home, acting like a newborn who has just been plucked out of the womb.
Putting them in your new beautiful pot will just make them more stressed and make it more difficult to provide them with the care they require. The solution: For at least the first year, keep your houseplants in their plastic nursery pots.
Lawrence and Gutierrez tell you that you can still utilize your lovely pot. Simply place the new plant in the decorative pot, plastic pot and all, and fill up any gaps with Spanish moss or rocks.
The nursery pots, in contrast to many aesthetic pots, offer good drainage. And you don’t need drainage saucers because you can bring the plant easily to the sink or bathtub to water it, give it a nice soaking, and then let it drain before placing it back (which look pretty tacky under your decorative pots anyway).
According to Lawrence, most houseplants grow slowly and prefer to occupy little spaces in their pots, but when the dirt in the pot is more roots than roots, it’s time to transplant. Just increase the pot size by one, or at most two, sizes at that time. “The plant does not develop more quickly because of the size of the container, and the extra dirt makes it more difficult for the roots to receive the water and nutrients they require.
Last but not least, while transplanting, fill the bottom of the pot with potting soil (not garden soil) to help the plant grow to the desired height. Never place the plant in the pot’s bottom and then cover it with soil because doing so risked suffocating it.
Water, don’t drown
According to Lawrence and Gutierrez, improper watering is the primary reason plants die, frequently as a result of well-intentioned individuals drowning their plants.
When Lawrence ran a company that provided indoor office plant care, she couldn’t figure out why so many of the plants kept dying until she learned that workers routinely dumped leftover coffee or bottled water into the soil.
She claimed that although they believed they were assisting, the plants were actually suffering from either root rot or suffocation in standing water.
For those who water on a weekly routine without ever checking to see if their plants are moist or dry, this is a severe issue.
Because not all plants require watering at the same time, Lawrence advised putting your plants on a checking schedule rather than a watering one.
Before deciding to add water, stick your finger a good inch or two into the soil to see if it is dry. Buy a cheap moisture tester (like the $12 moisture-pH-light meter from Amazon) if you don’t trust your finger.
Sometimes gardeners are simply stingy, moistening the soil’s surface but neglecting to hydrate the roots. According to Gutierrez, the plant is essentially dry, and the salt and minerals in our water have a tendency to build up unhealthily in the soil.
When it’s time to water, take the plant to the sink or bathtub (ideally in the nursery pot it came in) and give it a good soak so the water can wash out any pollutants and completely moisten the root ball.
According to Lawrence, if the soil is extremely dry, it can actually reject water, acting like a fresh sponge that won’t soak up liquid until it is submerged. For 20 or 30 minutes, submerging the plant in a few inches of water will assist it absorb moisture at the roots, where it is most required.
Let there be light
News flash: For indoor plants to thrive, they require light, but “You shouldn’t place a plant next to a window that receives direct sunlight unless you’re growing a cactus indoors, according to Lawrence.
Keep plants away from the harsh, hot rays from the south and west, which are merely amplified as they come through the glass, and look for indirect light from north-facing or east-facing windows.
However, stay away from placing your plants in nooks or under stairwells where they receive little to no natural light. For photosynthesis to occur and for plants to obtain the energy they require for growth, there must be a reliable source of light.
“Some dark-leaf plants can endure low light, but Gutierrez, whose houseplant care advice is available online, claimed that they will never flower or grow large. Install a small grow lamp or even an LED light above the plant if you must place it in a dark area, she advised. It should be on continuously for at least eight hours each day.
Although a timer is useful, Gutierrez recalls being astounded by a trailing pothos plant that was blooming in a doctor’s office without any windows.
“I then saw that the lights were always on, so the plant was receiving enough light to perform photosynthesis, she added, from the moment people entered the facility until they left at night. “Not all plants will respond in the same way, but for it to be effective, you must keep the light on continuously so it simulates sunshine.