How To Prune A Hibiscus House Plant

To avoid the spread of any illness from infected branches, make sure your pruning shears are clean, sharp, and preferably sanitized with alcohol gel before pruning hibiscus. Hibiscus plants should be pruned to about a third of their original height, with at least two to three nodes on the branches left open for new growth to appear. Just above the nodes, these incisions should be done, leaving about a quarter-inch (0.5 cm.). Eliminate any weak, sick, or dead growth, as well as any branches that are crossing or lanky. Branches that are encroaching on the plant’s center ought to be cut off as well.

Towards the end of spring, when temperatures have sufficiently warmed up, you can aid flowers get a boost by applying more fertilizer.

Should I trim my hibiscus plant indoors?

Perform a yearly pruning on your tropical hibiscus in a pot in the early spring. The evergreen plant will undoubtedly become lanky and require some severe pruning if you leave it indoors throughout the winter. If it appears a little shorn, don’t worry. After a haircut, the tropical hibiscus will grow new branches, and those branches will bloom all year. But because you’re also removing the lanky stems and flower buds, it might take a little longer to bloom.

You can perform modest maintenance pruning at any time of year, just like with hardy hibiscus. Remove any branches that brush against one another, are dead or infected, or are drooping. Since hibiscus flowers are formed on new growth, heavy pruning of the plants during the active growing season causes blooming to be postponed and limited. Because the blooms fall to the ground after they die, deadheading is not required.

When should hibiscus be pruned?

The hardy perennial hibiscus, Hibiscus coccineus and Hibiscus moscheutos, send up new growth each spring after wintering off to the ground. They take a while to emerge in the spring and are hardy in zones 4 or 5 through 9. One season, I had to wait until the first week of July. For increased cold resilience, northern gardeners should leave the plants alone over the winter. In the early spring or late winter, trim the perennial hibiscus. For this late-emerging plant, leave 6 inches of the stem intact to indicate its location and prevent unintentional digging. As a hibiscus, the Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) can be grown in hardiness zones 4 or 5 through 8 or 9. Late summer is the blooming season for this shrub. Before the plants start to grow, prune them in the late winter or early spring. Dead branches should be cut off. To a healthy side branch or above a bud, prune dead tips. Just enough extra pruning should be done to shape or regulate the plant’s size.

How should a tropical hibiscus in a pot be pruned?

In addition to caring for the plant’s health, you should also keep an eye on it for aesthetic reasons.

Hibiscus will grow tall and lanky and become very top-heavy if left to their own devices.

This makes the stalks slant in all directions, giving your plant an oddly balanced appearance. Corrective pruning will be required to address the imbalanced appearance.

Every week or two, check your plant and remove any branches that are bending to the left or right (selective pruning).

By doing this, you will promote bushier development and solve the issue of the plant’s center having sparse patches.

How to prune hibiscus is as follows:

  • Look for leaf nodes while pruning particular branches.
  • This is the stage when leaves start to appear.
  • Sometimes they merely resemble lumps, and other times they sprout tiny leaves.
  • To ensure healthy, bushy growth at the cut site, trim just above a leaf node.
  • Slant your cut in the direction you want the plant to grow to encourage stalks to grow in that direction.
  • Cut with the slant towards the direction you want the new growth to grow, about a quarter inch above a leaf node.
  • Remember to never cut more than a third of the plant off at once while it is still actively developing.
  • To make precise, effective cuts, always use sharp scissors, pruning shears, or bypass hand pruners (Felco).

How is an indoor hibiscus plant cared for?

Hibiscus can be grown indoors in containers or outdoors in garden beds, but most people find it slightly simpler to maintain them in containers. The opportunity to move your plants around to ensure that their needs are being met is one of the appeals of container gardening. You can transfer your hibiscus to a new location if the one you’ve chosen doesn’t provide quite enough sun. You can even bring it inside to overwinter it as the weather starts to cool off so you can use it for another summer.

Avoid selecting a container that is too big to fit your hibiscus in. Actually, hibiscus plants require a slightly snug fit around their roots, therefore the best container is a smaller one with several drainage holes. If you’re keeping it inside, choose a sunny windowsill to set it on, but bear in mind that the sun can heat the windowpane and end up scorching the plant if it touches the glass.

During the blooming season, fertilizing hibiscus plants in containers once a week should be sufficient, which is a bit more frequently than fertilizing hibiscus plants in garden beds. Hibiscus plants in gardens should be fertilized roughly every two weeks. Neither of them needs fertilizer in the winter. A slow-release 14-14-14 fertilizer or one made specifically for hibiscus plants should be good; just be careful not to overdo it, as too much phosphorus could prematurely kill your hibiscus. Fertilizers with a little bit more iron and magnesium will particularly aid in their blooming.

Make sure there is space between each hibiscus plant when you are planting them in your garden—ideally, 2-3 feet. They fill out beautifully since they develop very swiftly over the summer. Check the soil’s pH if you suspect it might be more on the alkaline side; hibiscus thrives in slightly acidic soil, and you can improve the environment a little by adding some loam.


Hibiscus require a nutritional boost from us in order to produce all the carbohydrates and proteins they require in the artificial home environment in order to flourish and blossom. The essential nutrients we employ to maintain the wellbeing of our indoor hibiscus are:

  • High-quality hibiscus fertilizer that is as free of pollutants as possible and contains all the nutrients hibiscus need
  • Reduced nitrogen levels to keep plants more compact and ward off bugs that love it
  • extremely high potassium levels to create robust wood, richer color pigments, and larger blooms
  • Magnesium and iron levels must be extremely high to balance potassium and create cholorophyll.
  • To maintain vigor in the low-light, low-humidity indoor environment, growth promoters are needed.
  • soil protectors to maintain healthy roots and stop soil illnesses and pests
  • slight acidity of ph

Every time they are watered, hibiscus houseplants benefit from a diluted solution of these nutrients. Using our HVH Houseplant Formula is the most convenient way to obtain all of these nutrients. It has everything a hibiscus plant requires in one bottle to thrive nutritionally. To use it, simply add some to the water when you water your hibiscus.


Hygiene is crucial for house hibiscus, just as it is for indoor people and animals. The dust that hibiscus remove from the air settles on the leaves and in all the nooks and crannies, creating the ideal habitat for spider mites, the one hibiscus pest that prefers an interior setting. Maintaining cleanliness is the simplest way to guarantee that your hibiscus never acquires spider mites. Dusting is ineffective since all it does is stir up the dust, fluff it into the air, and in a day or two, it will return to the plant. It’s preferable to wash. Your hibiscus can literally be placed in a sink or bathtub and sprayed with warm water. Make sure to get into the crooks between stems and branches and to spray both the top and bottom of every leaf. Spray directly on the soil, generously mist the soil, and also mist the pot’s exterior. After letting it air dry, you’re done. Alternately, if you’d rather, you can spritz down your hibiscus with a mild substance like horticultural oil. Horticultural oil is advantageous because it doesn’t need to be rinsed off and will leave your plants stress-free and spotless. Simply spritz it on, then let the plants dry naturally. Once a week washing is ideal. Try to wash them at least twice a month. To get rid of spider mites if you have an infestation, wash them twice a week for three weeks. Then, wash them once a week going forward.


Without direct sunshine, hibiscus will grow remarkably well, but they won’t flower. If they are directly across the room from a sunny window, they will maintain robust and healthy growth, have glossy dark green leaves, and produce lovely foliage. However, flowers require at least a small bit of daily direct sunshine if you want to see them. If you follow our recommended nutrition plan, even just an hour or two of sun will be plenty for them to blossom. A proper nutrition program decreases the quantity of sun they will need to bloom. More blossoms will appear if your window receives several hours of direct sunlight each day. No amount of sunlight is excessive, but in a window that receives a lot of sunlight, try to keep the plant’s leaves about an inch or two away from the glass because the heat that collects exactly next to the glass can be damaging to leaves that directly touch it.


Like outdoor hibiscus, indoor hibiscus will require a lot of water in the summer and a lot less in the winter. When watering your hibiscus, make sure there is enough water in the pot to reach the plant tray, but after 12 hours, the water should be gone. Pour away any remaining water in the tray if it is still there. A hibiscus can drown in water that is still. Air is necessary for their roots, but water stops them from acquiring any. Additionally, fungus-related root infections flourish in wet soil, and prolonged standing water unquestionably makes soil wet.

Pinch and Prune

Pinch and prune your indoor hibiscus plants to encourage them to grow more branches so that blossoms can bloom on them, just like you would with outdoor hibiscus, if you want to see lots of blooms. It’s challenging, but if you can force yourself to pinch your plants when they’re young, you’ll soon see the benefits in the form of many more blossoms. If you pinch the plants, feed them carefully, give them plenty of sun, and wait patiently for them to branch, even tiny plants in 4″ (10 cm) pots will bloom. More rewards await you if the plants are larger. The most difficult task is to remove the one flowering tip you have. But if you cut off one flowering point, it will multiply into several, so just close your eyes, take a deep breath, and snip!

Which Hibiscus Varieties?

Previously, we would recommend specific hibiscus kinds for indoor growth, but now we can say that they all do! Every hibiscus we’ve taken inside and utilized this method on has thrived and flowered, with both the leaf and the blossoms having good color. Indoors, flowers will frequently be smaller, but we don’t mind as long as the colors are accurate, which they appear to be as long as the plants are given a solid nutritional regimen. Therefore, pick any flavor you like! Let us know how it performs after that. We will provide details about how well each variety does, along with any comments we receive from other indoor hibiscus enthusiasts, on our website as we try more and more types ourselves.

Hibiscus from the tropics are not just for people from the hot, sunny south! They are grown indoors with varied, but equally amazing, outcomes by northerners and residents of colder areas. Hibiscus has long been grown indoors by Northern Europeans and Canadians. Therefore, all of you who live in frigid northern climates or those of you who reside in warm southern climates and enjoy keeping houseplants, jump in and give your favorite hibiscus a try. Who needs a warm, sunny environment? Who would require a greenhouse? We have the flowers to demonstrate that a living room window will do!

Should you take the hibiscus’ dead blossoms off?

Deadheading, the act of removing wilting blooms, can enhance the plant’s look and stop reseeding. Hibiscus flower care does not require deadheading, according to information about hibiscus blooms. This holds true for rose of Sharon, tropical hibiscus blossoms, and other hibiscus family flowers.

Hibiscus blossoms can be pinched off, although doing so might be time-wasting and possibly stop a late blooming display. You can also be putting off the blooms for next year. According to information on the issue, you might be preventing later-season blooms because these flowers are said to be self-cleaning, falling off on their own and being replaced by new buds.

Why are my hibiscus’ leaves going yellow?

  • 1.Insufficient light: If hibiscus leaves are not getting enough light, they may turn yellow. Hibiscus plants are tropical plants, thus they require full sun to some shade to survive. Leaf sunburn from too much direct sunlight can cause tiny white patches to show up on the foliage. However, if the plant receives insufficient light, it won’t be able to create enough chlorophyll to maintain its green foliage.
  • 2. Temperature variations: Extreme heat, cold, and humidity changes can all turn the leaves of your hibiscus yellow.
  • 3.Nutrient insufficiency: Your hibiscus’ yellowing leaves may be because to a nutrient deficiency. Hibiscus plants that are lacking in nutrients can develop iron chlorosis, which turns the leaves yellow with green veins.
  • 4. Inadequate or excessive watering: Tropical hibiscus plants typically need a lot of water, but excessive or inadequate watering might result in yellowing leaves. Root rot can also result from overwatering.
  • 5. Environmental modifications: The leaves of the hibiscus plant are sensitive to modifications in the environment. You can anticipate the leaves to turn yellow if you just moved a potted hibiscus or transplanted it to a new location in your garden.
  • 6. Insect infestation: Hibiscus is vulnerable to attack by mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites. The leaves may become yellow due to pest damage. Look for mite-related stains on the underside of leaves.