In the winter, it might be difficult to give indoor plants adequate lighting. The majority of common houseplants grow more slowly in the winter, which is advantageous because many can handle less light.
Unfortunately, if they don’t get enough light, certain houseplants will become lanky. Knowing your plants’ light needs will help you give them the right amount of light.
Do not assume that all indoor plants must face south or that they will all thrive in a dim corner.
A houseplant’s poor and lanky growth indicates that it isn’t receiving enough light. Add a grow light for plants in the winter or move it closer to a window with natural light.
There are many affordable solutions available nowadays for indoor plant lights, so you don’t have to spend a fortune. For little plants, I like to use this one grow light.
Using a cheap fluorescent shop light fixture and plant grow light bulbs, you may easily create your own grow lights for indoor plants. To provide my plants with the ideal quantity of light throughout the winter, I operate my lights on an outlet timer.
Keeping Indoor Plants Warm In Winter
The majority of indoor plants, as I indicated previously, are native to tropical regions of the planet and cannot withstand the cold.
Indoor houseplants prefer a temperature range of 60 to 75 F. Placing them in a warm room as opposed to a chilly one is the greatest approach to keep them warm during the winter.
Adding a space heater to the room is another option to keep indoor plants warm during the winter. Just make sure to position the heater far enough away from your plants to avoid damaging them.
Houseplants also dislike drafts of any type, especially those that are extremely cold or hot. Maintain their safety at all times by keeping them away from doors, drafty windows, and heat sources like a fireplace, heat vent, or space heater.
Fertilizing Indoor Plants During Winter
Most indoor plants do not require feeding because they go dormant in the winter. So, in general, avoid fertilizing indoor plants in the winter.
It’s better to cease fertilizing them in the early fall and then to restart in the early spring with a small amount of liquid indoor plant fertilizer.
Repotting Houseplants In Winter
Repotting indoor plants over the winter should only be done in extreme cases. Winter houseplant transplantation may result in new growth, which is typically weak and lanky.
Repotting plants also causes them a lot of stress, which can make them suffer over the winter.
You can repot a houseplant over the winter, though, if the soil dries out almost as soon as you water it or the plant is suffering from being pot-bound. Discover more here about when and how to repot your indoor plants.
Controlling Houseplant Pests Through The Winter
Winter may be a dormant season for our indoor plants, but it’s a pests’ ideal breeding season. Some bug species are quite challenging to entirely get rid of.
Regularly checking your plants for insect traces is the greatest approach to combat pests that affect indoor plants. Those terrible bugs are easier to manage the earlier you locate them.
Every time you water, it’s a good idea to check on your plants. Treat the plant right away if you notice any insects.
The finest soap for washing plant leaves and eradicating bugs is organic (I make my own using 1 tsp of mild liquid soap to 1 liter of water).
Additionally, I advise purchasing some organic neem oil, which helps prevent plant bugs from returning in addition to working to eliminate them. Pest control for indoor plants is explained here.
When are potted plants too cold to survive?
Planting too early might result in a crisis if a cold snap is impending, whether it was because you were seduced by some striking hue at the garden center or simply wanted to start the gardening season early. It’s not difficult to help your seedlings survive the great frost, but it does take some planning.
When temperatures drop, you can usually rely on improvised protection for plants. The necessary tools must be prepared in advance to protect plants from frigid mornings for larger plantings, such as a food garden.
Knowing when prized vegetation starts to turn frost-burned brown will help you know what to do when freeze warnings are in effect. As a general rule, plants typically freeze when the temperature stays at 28°F for five hours.
There are, of course, exceptions to this rule. When temps drop to 32–33F, seedlings often die because of their delicate new leaves. There are many low-temperature thresholds for tropical plants. Some collapse at temperatures below 40°F, while others break down at 35°F. Other plants are naturally resistant and can endure temperatures as low as 18 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Do a search in gardening books and internet resources to discover the threshold for your plants.
Take it up
Moving plants away from potential danger is the simplest cold-protection strategy. Potted plants and seedlings in flats both benefit from this. Moving plants onto a porch with a roof, into a garage or shed, or under a deck frequently provides sufficient shelter.
Rely on Water
Just before sunset, water the soil to raise the temperature of the surrounding air overnight as the water evaporates. Water-filled buckets or gallon jugs should be left in the sun all day. Move them close to threatened plants at night. Air temperatures will be moderated by the water, and if it freezes, heat will be released. To boost midday heating, paint a few water-holding containers black for best results.
the air flowing
The biggest harm is done to plants by cold, motionless air. To prevent frost from accumulating on plants, you can use an electric fan all night to create a breeze. Never forget to keep electrical connections dry.
Plants Should Be CoveredPlants should be covered with sheets, towels, blankets, cardboard, or a tarp to protect them from everything but the harshest freezing (28F for five hours). Inverting baskets, coolers, or any other container with a firm bottom over plants is also an option. Before it gets dark, cover plants to keep warm air in. Coverings shouldn’t ideally contact the foliage. If windy conditions are anticipated, anchor cloth coverings.
When the temperature rises and the frost has melted in the morning, remove coverings. Under dense covers, heat from the sun can accumulate and cause plant death.
Blankets that collapse
Row covers, or gardening blankets, should always be accessible. These covers are created in various thicknesses from plastic or synthetic fibers. Lay row covers directly on the plants, or suspend them over a bed with pegs to form a tunnel.
Activate lights
An incandescent light bulb produces enough heat to raise the temperature of the air around it just enough to keep a plant from freezing. For this method to operate, bulbs must be close to plants (within a distance of 2-3 feet). (Fluorescent bulbs can’t produce enough heat to complete this task.)
Defend specific plants
Set up hot caps
At planting time, stiff plastic containers with venting holes are placed over the individual seedlings. Hot caps function similarly to cloches (small greenhouses), but the daily task of applying and removing the covering is eliminated by venting holes. Use plastic two-liter bottles or gallon jugs with the bottoms cut off and the lids removed to simulate a hot cap (but saved). In the evenings when the weather turns chilly, replace the lids.
A Wall O’Water tepee, which encircles individual plants with a sleeve of water-filled tubes, is a variation on the hot cap concept. During the day, the water absorbs the heat of the sun. The water gently freezes at night, releasing the sun’s stored radiant heat and preventing the air within the tepee from becoming frosty.
Why are my houseplants deteriorating in the winter?
The easiest time of year to kill a houseplant is definitely during the winter. Houseplants are put to the test by harsh growing conditions like low light levels, dry air, shorter days, and frigid temperatures.
Making care routine adjustments to accommodate seasonal growing circumstances is the key to ensuring that plants survive the winter. Review the fundamentals to provide your indoor plants with the best care during winter.
Winter causes the sun to set later in the day, which results in a 50% reduction in light levels near windows. During the winter, indoor plants that thrive near a sunny eastern or northern window during the summer may require a southern or western exposure. Similarly, plants near windows in the west or south that require filtered light in the summer might be able to endure direct sunlight in the winter.
To aid plants in adjusting to shifting light conditions:
- If it’s possible, move plants nearer to the windows.
- Window cleaning will maximize light transmission.
- For the winter, move plants to new locations close to windows with more light.
- Cleanse plants to allow leaves to utilize the light that is available to the fullest.
- Add synthetic lighting. Fluorescent lights are sufficient. They generate less heat and are less expensive than conventional grow lights. For best results, place bulbs 4–12 inches away from plants.
Tropical plants, which make up the majority of indoor plants, like daytime temperatures of 65 to 75 F and nighttime temperatures of around 10 F lower. Low temperatures (below 50F) can be problematic for many plants.
In order to make the thermostats more comfortable for you, keep in mind that your plants also require some thought.
- Keep plants away from heat sources and cold gusts.
- Maintain a few inches of space between plants and external windows.
- Plants should be moved away from windows at nightfall in cold climates if windows freeze over at night. Additionally, you may tuck a thick shade or another insulating item between the plants and the glass.
In the cold, homes might only provide 5–10% relative humidity. Houseplants prefer 40–50%. Brown leaf tips and the presence of pests like Spider Mites are indicators that plants are being stressed by low humidity. Learn how to increase the humidity around plants in simple methods.
Overwatering is the most frequent issue that indoor plants encounter throughout the winter. 95% of indoor plants require the soil to almost totally dry out before watering. How do you determine whether plants need water?
- Don’t only test a small area of the soil’s surface. When the root zone is dry, plants require moisture. Insert your finger up to two inches into the ground. Water the soil if it’s dry.
- Pick up the pot. When soil gets dry, it becomes lighter. Lift pots right away after watering to feel the texture of the moist soil.
- Plants won’t need water as frequently if winterized rooms are humidified. Water must be added to dry air.
- The only exceptions to this rule are citrus and ferns in pots, both of which require continually moist soil. If you are uncertain, always do your research.
Never let plants sit in water that gathers in the drainage saucer overnight when you water.
Fertilize plants all winter long in mild climates. Winter fertilization of indoor plants is not recommended in the coldest climates with little natural light. When springtime outside plants begin to grow, fertilizer can be resumed.
In the spring and summer, when most indoor plants are actively growing, is the ideal time to repot them. Potted woody plants that entirely hibernate in the winter are the exception. Transplant those in the early spring before the buds break.
- Numerous advantages of houseplants include bettering indoor air quality and lowering sickness rates.
How can indoor plants endure the winter?
1. Relocate plants away from radiators, drafty windows, and vents. Try to keep plants away from areas that become overly hot or cold because most plants don’t like excessive temperature changes. Plants that like the sun and stay out of the drafts should be placed on a side table close to the window, but not on the windowsill.
2. Verify the humidity of the air. When the heat is on full blast and the windows are shut, the humidity level in your home is probably significantly lower than the 40 to 50 percent range that many houseplants require to thrive. Purchasing a humidifier is the simplest answer (here are 10 of our favorites). Even if adding moisture may seem like a big expense for a few ferns, it will also make it simpler for you to breathe. An alternative is to purchase a mister bottle to spritz the plant leaves, especially if they begin to appear dry or crunchy.
3. Keep the temperature constant. While each species’ optimal temperature differs, most plants thrive in a range of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and won’t mind a small drop in temperature at night.
4. Test them out. Give your plants a quarter rotation every time you water them to avoid uneven growth. This will guarantee that everyone has a chance to enjoy the sun.
5. Refrain from overwatering. It’s likely that you’ll flood your plants if you stick to the same watering routine that you used over the summer. As the top of the soil dries out first, the easiest approach to test the soil moisture is to stick your finger 2 inches below the surface. It’s always a good idea to pick a planter with drainage holes and avoid letting the roots stay in too much water, which can lead to rot, regardless of the time of year.
6. Take a bath with your plants. Use a moist sponge or towel to clean your houseplant’s leaves if they appear dusty. Simply use your palm to support the leaf’s back to prevent unintentional tearing.
7. Use less fertilizer. When growth is naturally at its slowest in the winter, resist the desire to fertilize your indoor plants. Resuming feeding should be done when the weather warms up and your plants begin to grow once more.
8. Maintain cacti’s coolness (surprise!). You might think that cactus would like a scorching climate, but most species of cacti prefer a cool (but sunny) home throughout the winter, just as many deserts see a severe temperature decrease at night.
9. Trim limbs that are too long. Lack of light can cause plants to grow leggy, which is a term for long and spindly. This growth can be removed, along with any dead leaves, to make room for new springtime growth.
10. Watch for pest infestations. Pests should be avoided, especially if you brought any outdoor plants indoors for the season. One of the most prevalent pests, spider mites, can be particularly problematic during the winter when dry, dusty circumstances encourage them to look for moisture in the leaves of indoor plants. Infested plants can be saved by wiping the leaves with a water and very mild dish soap solution. Alternately, consider utilizing ingredients from your kitchen to make a homemade insecticide.
How are plants warmed up?
The house is starting to fill up with plants looking for a warm place to stay until the following spring as winter approaches. Years ago, the pot plants on my windowsills and shelves were like prisoners on death row, dying off one by one from neglect. This was partly caused by careless watering, but more so by a lack of reliable light and, more critically, reliable warmth. Even while those windowsills increased the heat during the day, the temperature dropped at night due to chilly drafts that crept in through the shoddy frames.
My plants now have a higher chance of surviving. I recently moved into a new house, and the conservatory has two radiators that are individually plumbed to the heating system. This allows me to give the area a warming boost without having to pay to heat the rest of the house. The only “neglect” I now have to take care of is because the plants adore it.
resides in a house with an oddly useful plumbing system. Here are five ideas for how to consistently warm your indoor plants because, thankfully, there are many gardening tools and gadgets that work as well as a few DIY ones.
Bubble wrap
Dressing overwintering plants with bubble wrap is one of the cheapest and quickest ways to give them some cozy warmth. The additional layer of bubbles will assist insulate against colder snaps, while the temperature will still fluctuate depending on the temperature of the space they are in. Do this: bubble wrap roll purchased from Amazon
Electric white goods
Simply put your plants on top of a fridge or freezer if it is located in an area with natural light. Your ice pops need a lot of energy to stay frozen, and as a result, some soft warmth will escape. Just be cautious when watering near electrical equipment, and try to avoid getting soil on your oven chips.
Programmable radiators
Consider a programmed electric radiator that can heat a specific room without wasting energy on the rest of the house for the ultimate in plant (and human) luxury. They provide complete control and can instantly adapt to rapid changes in the temperature of the space. And the plumbing doesn’t need to be torn out. Use these VeriSmart Heating electric heaters
Heat mats
I’ve been known to place my shivering plants on top of an old heat mat for brewing, which was made to maintain a steady temperature for alcoholic fermentation. Use of heat mats created for the purpose is far more dependable than this method. Use these Mats for propagating heatwaves in the hobby from Gardens4Less
Heat lamps
Try heating from above using foliage-friendly heat lamps as an alternative to heating from below. LED bulbs not only offer your plants a suitable warm glow, but they also emit some useful light. Use these lamps from Lamps Plus made by Tesler
Electric Propagator
Since I first wrote this article, I’ve spent money on an electric propagator, which I plug in every February and has been quite successful. It is essentially a tray with a heat mat interior and a clear lid exterior, making it perfect for windowsills. To absorb the heat, you can also use individual lidded dishes placed on the mat. Perfect. Do this: Amazon’s electric propagator