Hard-packed clay soils and even garden soils can harden and become impermeable, allowing water to flow off rather than soak into the ground. Repeatedly softly sprinkle the surface to re-wet it while ensuring that there is no runoff. It will also be beneficial to cover the area with a mulch made of straw, leaves, wood chips, or compost. The dirt will eventually get damp enough to crumble. A light, constant rain will also work.
Coffee grinds work well as a component of compost and mulch. However, tightly packed chunks of fine espresso grounds may turn hydrophobic if they become completely dry. When using them as mulch, especially, take care to break them up.
How can I naturally treat hydrophobic soil?
Working some organic matter into the soil to help it retain moisture for a longer time and reintroduce microorganisms that will break down the waxy water repellent chemicals are two of the finest strategies to treat hydrophobic soil.
For instance, properly decomposed compost aids in the retention of up to 100 times its own weight in water and gradually provides moisture to plants as needed. Compost tea is another example of an organic substance.
However, treating hydrophobia with compost alone would not be sufficient. It needs to be paired with a consistent moisture input, like as irrigation or rain from the sky. The compost will dry out and turn hydrophobic in the absence of regular moisture.
This is true when introducing fresh, dried compost that was just bought from the supermarket. Before putting the dry compost in the garden, it must first be pre-wet. Alternately, the dried compost must be carefully incorporated into the garden’s water and soil.
Additionally, stay away from using compost that has unidentified ingredients, such as municipal compost, which may contain chemical pesticides and herbicides derived from grass clippings and other plants. There shouldn’t be any issues if you stick to locally produced or organic stuff.
Why is the soil in my plants hydrophobic?
In Australia, hydrophobic soil is a typical problem because of our hot environment and erratic rainfall. When a waxy substance accumulates on soil particles, the consequence is hydrophobic soil, which repels water instead of absorbing it. It occurs most frequently in sandy soils, dried-out potting soil, and soils with organic content that has not yet decayed. Watering down hydrophobic soil will reveal it. Hydrophobic soil is the kind that retains water on the surface while drying out the soil underneath. Fortunately, it is not too difficult to remedy; here are a few typical methods you may use to make your soil more water-loving, or “hydrophilic.”
Wetting Agents
Wetting agents are a terrific short-term solution, but they won’t cure the problem permanently. By dissolving waxy coats and lowering water’s surface tension, wetting agents make it simpler for water to permeate soil. Garden centers sell commercial wetting agents, but you may also build your own at home using agar (powdered kelp)*. Use caution when using detergents on your garden; make sure to use environmentally friendly/biodegradable options and check their suitability for use on your specific plant varieties. Dishwashing liquid or dish water/laundry water can be used to break up surface tension in the soil in a similar ways to wetting agents.
Soil Improvement
A more effective, long-lasting method of improving soil is to add well-rotted organic matter and then mulch it on top to keep the soil from drying up. This will boost your soil biology and introduce microorganisms that will break down the waxy residue in your soil. Just take care not to use pine bark or eucalypt woodchip mulches frequently since they may contain fungi that have a negative impact on soil conditioning. The fungus cycle is broken by changing the mulch used on your garden with each application, which also boosts soil microbiology as the mulch decomposes. Jerry Coleby-Williams, a renowned horticulturist, suggests “Succession mulching,” which involves alternating the mulch between mushroom compost, pine bark, composted lawn clippings, tea tree, and sugarcane mulches in that order. This will create a diverse community of microbes to improve and aerate your soil. It’s important to use mulch carefully so that it doesn’t become too thick or build a crust on top of your garden, which would hinder the ability of water to penetrate the soil. More mulch isn’t always better. We advise using mulch with a thickness of 3 to 5 cm.
Potted plants
By submerging the pot completely in a tub of water, you can hydrate the soil in potted plants. Restoring nutrients to the soil by mixing water with liquid fertilizer at half strength. When bubbles start to appear on the surface, immerse the pot for at least 10 to 20 minutes. Repotting is occasionally necessary for houseplants as well. To increase moisture levels and supply new nutrients, use fresh potting soil. To increase the water-holding capacity of plant soil, peat or water crystals may be used.
Garden bed design
When watered, flat garden beds are more likely to hold water than sloped garden beds, improving the possibility that pooled water will finally soak in. Use furrows (trenches) in your garden bed if you are unable to make your garden beds flat. These will slow the water and help concentrate it so that it stays close to your plants rather than rushing off and causing water loss and erosion.
*Agar soil wetter recipe:
Here is a recipe for creating your own homemade natural Agar soil wetter: Mix 500ml of boiling water with agar powder or powdered kelp (available at health food stores) until the mixture has the consistency of thick custard. Fill a 9-liter watering can with this mixture, then add water to dilute it. Over well-watered soil, apply this. 9m2 of soil should be covered by this. Before spreading this mixture, make sure the soil is well-watered as this will allow for the best penetration of the wetter mix. Because this mixture is biodegradable, its effectiveness will last only for about a month.
What should you use on a soil that is hydrophobic?
Gardeners who have sandy soil or potted plants are more likely to have encountered hydrophobic or water-repellent soils. Long-term dryness causes soils to become hydrophobic, especially when the dryness is coupled with a high organic content.
However, there are now many products on the market designed to assist soil absorb water called soil wetting agents. Dr. Peter May, a soil scientist, says there is a straightforward experiment people can carry out at home to determine whether their soil is hydrophobic.
“Put some dry soil in a serving dish. Create a well in the top, then fill it with water. The water will collect on top of the soil if it is hydrophobic. In contrast, soil that is hydrophobic quickly absorbs water when it is wet “explained he.
Utilizing a soil wetting chemical is the quickest approach to increase hydrophobic soils’ ability to absorb water. “Our theory holds that when organic matter decomposes in some soils, it forms a waxy coating on the soil particles. Similar to detergents are wetting agents. They remove that waxy covering, allowing water to enter the gaps between pore holes, “said Peter.
“Most potting mixtures will also become water resistive if they become dry,” he warned.
This means that when individuals claim that their plants require daily watering in the summer, it may simply be a problem with the way they are watering and not the soil actually absorbing the liquid.
“Undoubtedly, it is feasible. I believe it’s a good idea to use wetting agents in pots or containers in the summer, “said Peter.
A separate product called a water-storing granule or gel is also available on the market to assist gardeners in increasing the soil’s capacity to retain water. These are tiny polymer crystals that can absorb up to 400 times their own weight in water.
If left overnight, a tablespoon of crystals—roughly equivalent to the amount you’d mix in potting mix—will absorb about a liter of water, according to Peter.
The crystals, he claimed, did not conserve water. “However, they improve the soil’s ability to hold water. It also implies that plants can go longer between waterings because more water is retained for plant needs. It won’t change how much water a plant uses, but it will go longer without drinking “said Peter.
In hydrophobic soils, the crystals have no use for absorbing water. “That is a totally distinct characteristic. The soil’s ability to store water is improved by the crystals. However, hydrophobic soil is overcome by soil wetting agents. It’s crucial to identify the precise issue you’re having in your yard and address it “said Peter.
- Use a soil wetting chemical if your soil is water-repellent. If you have sandy soil or containers that are loaded with potting mix, it will aid in water absorption.
- If you decide to use a water-storing gel, keep in mind that it will ultimately dry out. You may be able to go one or two additional days without watering, but be wary of items that claim to save you water because there is no evidence to support this claim.
- Finally, keep in mind to distinguish between the two products and select the one that is best for your needs and the soil.
How may soil be prevented from becoming hydrophobic?
Contrary to hydrophobic soil, which is dry soil that resists taking in water, healthy soil has organic content that keeps moisture longer, even in harsh climates or weather conditions. This occurs when your soil’s microbial and fungi populations decline due to a lack of moisture. There are numerous levels of hydrophobic soil and numerous solutions.
Amending Hydrophobic Soil
The soil in the domes had not received any attention or water for a very long time when I first arrived at growing Spaces. There had no other option except to remove 1.5 to 2 feet of soil and replace it with compost made from fresh, healthy alpaca dung. Even though this drastic action is not frequently required, it should be mentioned in those rare circumstances where the soil cannot be repaired.
Compost
Compost is an organic material that has naturally decomposed into soil that is rich in helpful fungus and bacteria. Making your own compost or buying local compost is always a better option. When sitting in plastic bags in the sun or drying out for a long time, the “good” life, or bacteria and microorganisms that reside in the soil, might be harmed or eliminated.
Compost Tea
Worm castings or fully completed compost are used to make compost tea. Compost tea can be made in many different ways. Compost can be placed into a burlap bag or pillowcase and allowed to settle. This is the simplest method. Fill a watering can and water it into your soil after about two days. Anaerobic bacteria, which is terrible for your soil, can begin to smell nasty if you leave it for too long. Using an aerator or bubbler will improve your results because it will oxygenate the tea and encourage aerobic soil life.
Molasses is a fantastic additive to enhance the life of good bacteria in tea and soil, thus I strongly suggest adding it. A fantastic addition to hydrophobic soil is fish emulsion, a fermented fish product that supports both nutrients and good microorganisms. Plant roots will get stronger when combined with kelp.
Whey
Whey, a leftover from the cheese-making process, is full with healthy microorganisms. In the soil, it encourages the development of new microbes. Whey has been effectively employed by me in Growing Domes with hydrophobic soil. There are many additional fantastic uses for it in your garden. If you’re interested, this article briefly describes what it is and how to utilize it.
Mycorrhizae
Mycorrhiza, which literally translates to “fungus root,” refers to the cooperative association between the plant and the root fungus. These specialist fungi penetrate down into the earth and colonize plant roots. As true extensions of root systems, mycorrhizal fungal filaments in the soil are more efficient at absorbing nutrients and water than the roots themselves. Orca by Plant Revolution is currently my favorite. It is a liquid mycorrhiza and beneficial bacteria product that is highly concentrated, and it appears to be working well to boost growth and production while also enhancing resistance to pests and diseases. To support local companies, I prefer to purchase it from our neighborhood hydroponic store, but you may also locate it on Amazon.
Wetting Agent
Water’s surface tension is lowered by a soil wetting chemical to enable soil absorption. Increasing permeability is frequently the first step in addressing hydrophobic soil so that nutrients for boosting life can enter the soil and perform their function. I do not advise purchasing a ready-made wetting agent. All wetting treatments contain alcohol and petroleum compounds, making them inappropriate for organic farming. Here is the recipe I like most. Or you may quickly make your own using the ideal ingredients for sustaining soil life, agar agar and aloe vera. As the domes become hotter as summer approaches, I’m currently testing nopal cactus as a wetting agent to assist water retention. Another more traditional choice is to use a good biodegradable soap.
Sometimes the soil is too damaged, and it would be best to start again from scratch. Avoiding hydrophobic soil in the first place is the best course of action. The most important factor for a flourishing garden, especially in the winter, is a consistent watering program! For the soil to retain moisture, an aged organic compost must be incorporated. Your Dome will be a wholesome source of joy filled with plenty and life with a straightforward daily routine.
Written By: Heather Gray
Here at Growing Spaces, I teach and plant. I’ve been farming and gardening for 27 years in a variety of soil types, including clay, loam, and sand. I’ve instructed agroecology courses in colleges and hold a certification in permaculture design. Organic, holistic, and sustainability are my main priorities.
Join the Inner Circle
a privileged location for year-round growers. Join us to get “The Happy Grower,” our monthly newsletter. Here, you may get local news, event updates, professional gardening advice, and special deals.