A centuries-old garden form known as kokedama is currently experiencing resurgence. This Japanese bonsai type grows well inside and creates a lovely hanging decoration. These hanging soil and moss balls are simple to build with only a few ingredients, and they may be used as an ornament to fill the corners of your small flat or as a diversion on a rainy day.
How is kokedama used? Peat moss and bonsai soil are first combined, and then water is gradually added until the mixture forms a ball. Your home base will be here. We utilized fern roots, which we wrapped in damp sphagnum moss, tied with twine, and placed within the soil ball. Finish it off with sheet moss, extra string to bind it, and a water spray.
When your kokedama is complete, don’t feel constrained to just hanging it. It will also be noticeable in a glass bowl or on a hardwood shelf.
How long is kokedama good for?
In essence, kokedamas are live plants in soil that are covered in moss and twine. That is the condensed form…
Around 400 years ago, Japan is where the Kokedama art form first emerged. Kokedama, which means “Moss Ball” in its literal translation, describes exactly what it is. Originally, bonsai trees were grown in these.
We gently layer a premium soil mixture around the root base after mixing it. We always make sure there is enough dirt so the plant’s roots may spread out and flourish. Sphagnum moss is then utilized to cover the soil ball. This aids in containing the soil and maintaining moisture. The moss and dirt are then meticulously wrapped in layers of high-quality jute rope to create an effective pattern that holds everything together.
I hand-wrap each of our kokedamas, so you could say I’m the machine. Each kokedama is customized specifically for you!
We don’t produce in bulk. Then, each kokedama you order is prepared “new” specifically for you! This enables our hands and eyes to create a superior, wholly original, and one-of-a-kind product for you.
Depending on the plant and size of the kokedama we are wrapping, the process can take anywhere from 15-20 minutes for our micro and small sizes, all the way up to an hour for our jumbos.
To assist you keep your new plant companion alive, every plant and kokedama comes with complete care instructions tailored specifically to your plant. However, there are a few things to bear in mind.
- Position: Think carefully about where you want to put your plant. Not all plants will be suitable for all positions. A fern would not do well, for instance, at a window that receives full sun for the majority of the day. We might recommend a cactus or a succulent.
- How well do you care for different types of plants? Be truthful! There are many fickle plants, but on the other hand, there are also many resilient choices that benefit from neglect. We would be delighted to assist you in making your decision. Please get in touch so we can help you make a decision!
- Simply immerse the kokedama for 10 to 15 minutes just below the top of the string ball to hydrate it. This can be carried out in a bowl, bucket, or sink. It might need to be held under at first.
Pulling back the moss at the kokedama’s aperture to expose the soil is another method of watering. As you would with a conventional pot plant, gently push the plant’s foliage back and water from the top of your kokedama. Although it isn’t as effective as soaking, doing this will help your moss and twine last longer. I advise switching between this approach and the soaking approach.
Squeezing out the excess water after it has soaked is one of the important procedures in the care recommendations. By doing this, you can avoid your plant becoming water-logged and a number of diseases like root rot. This will help your plant stay healthy and develop, as well as increase the moss and twine’s lifespan.
Too much water is one of the worst enemies of indoor plants. Water your plants less rather than more for the majority of them. Ferns and other plant species that like higher humidity will need a regular gentle misting of water. Every day, and more often on warm days, I perform mine.
The care instructions and information above are merely a guide; every effort will be made to give you a plant that is healthy and happy. Every house is unique, and only you are familiar with it. Sunlight, humidity, temperature, and air quality will vary from home to home. Your plant’s growth and health will be impacted by each of these elements. In order to effectively care for your plant in your house, we advise conducting some study to learn about its requirements. Watch your plant; it will soon let you know if it is content or not.
Get in contact if you need assistance with any suggestions or care guidance. We are always pleased to assist.
The kokedama was made from natural, biodegradable materials. i.e., they will eventually degrade and change color. This is expected and inevitable.
- Avoid crossing water. We advise soaking the kokedama for 10 to 15 minutes. Longer is acceptable and won’t harm the plant, but it may shorten the moss and twine’s lifespan.
- After soaking, gently squeeze the moss ball to expel any remaining water from the kokedama. The moss and twine will dry more quickly as a result.
- To help the moss and twine dry out, make sure there is excellent airflow around the kokedama.
- Spraying the soil at the top of the kokedama alternates with soaking it.
Your kokedama shouldn’t typically need a re-wrapping or re-potting for another 1-2 years. The soil will need to be refreshed at this point regardless!
Everything is good, yes! If your plant is taken care of, it will ultimately outgrow its kokedama, just like all happy, healthy, growing plants.
Some plants thrive when their roots are constrained in constrained places. The plant will survive for a while in good condition, but this will probably limit their growth.
The kokedama will eventually be outgrown by other plants, but it will take time. These may endure for one year or more. We can provide you with further information about the specific plant you chose.
Yes! This is entirely typical. The natural, biodegradable materials we employ are of this kind. The twine will initially appear to be discolored, and soon it will start to fray. depends on how well the kokedama has been cared for, usually between 1-2 years.
The greatest approach to make sure your kokedama doesn’t last long is to overwater it. This includes failing to gently squeeze out the surplus water in accordance with the care manual.
When the moss and twine fall off, it’s actually an excellent time to re-pot or re-wrap your plant, just like you would with a conventional houseplant.
We provide a re-wrap or up-size service to provide your plant new soil and a fresh moss and twine wrap for a modest cost.
Your plant will benefit greatly from this because this is typically the time when plants need to be re-potted and given new soil.
As was already indicated, your kokedama will typically last between one and two years, which is still a lot longer than a bouquet of flowers! But if all goes as planned, the plant will last forever.
Where do moss balls come from?
According to legend, a commoner was once the object of affection for the daughter of a chief from a tribe residing close to Lake Akan in Japan. The pair fled when her parents forbade the union; nevertheless, they tragically fell into the lake and perished at the bottom. According to the legend, this is where they changed into Marimo moss balls, which is why people today use this plant as a symbol of love, affection, and good fortune.
What “Marimo” Means:
The more popular name for Cladophora aegagropila is Marimo moss balls. Japanese botanist Tatsuhiko Kawakami gave the plant the name “Marimo” in 1898. However, the term is slightly misleading because in Japanese, “mari” means ball and “mo” implies algae. These balls are typically referred to as moss despite the fact that they are made of threads of algae that have been rolled together to create a ball due to the negative connotations associated with the term “algae.”
They are sometimes referred to as a “love plant” and are viewed as a national treasure in Japan. They are said to help people achieve their heart’s wishes when given as gifts. The fact that they are extremely simple to maintain and don’t need a lot of maintenance is another reason to start producing your own colony of moss balls.
Facts about Marimo Moss Balls:
Cold, freshwater lakes like Lake Akan in Japan and Lake Myvatn in Iceland are where marimo moss balls first appear. The spheres are created when strings of algae roll around in shallow lake edges and round out.
Because the balls are green on all sides, they can photosynthesize regardless of which way they roll. In their natural environment, they rise and fall as a result of the algae’s quick photosynthetic process, which lifts them to the surface on oxygen. The balls return to the bottom when the light fades.
Dormant chloroplasts are contained within the balls; they become active when they are split apart. Although the moss balls frequently split into new ones on their own, you can start your own colony. Simply divide an existing ball in half, and then roll the resulting pieces into new balls with your hands to propagate your own moss balls.
Despite its adaptability to a wide variety of temperatures, marimo moss balls appear to thrive in colder water habitats and when exposed to light. Although the moss balls generally grow at a rate of around 5 millimeters per year in their native habitat, they can expand considerably more quickly in an aquarium with extra fertilizer.
The water just needs to be changed once a week, so they require little upkeep. Simply take the moss balls out of the tank and gently squeeze them, just like you would a sponge, to clean them.
The oldest known Marimo Moss ball is over 200 years old, so be ready to hold onto your colony of little trinkets for a while.
What kind of moss works best for kokedama?
Gardeners can transform plants into living sculptures with kokedama. Its name, “moss ball,” refers to a type of Japanese bonsai. As one might anticipate, a kokedama garden is made by enclosing a plant’s root system in sphagnum moss to form a ball, which, when hanging, creates a beautiful, organic, and adaptable garden design. It’s an easy job that will pay off for gardeners, and garden centers and nurseries may easily follow the tutorial.
- Choose a plant. Small houseplants that are appropriate for your region’s environment make the greatest kokedama plants.
- Blend equal parts of bonsai soil and sphagnum moss. Your soil and peat moss mixture should be dampened with water. Sphagnum can store 20 times its weight in water, making it the finest moss for kokedama.
- Create a ball out of the dirt mixture and place it around the plant’s roots.
- Cover the root ball with sphagnum moss. A sheet must be maintained to prevent the root ball from disintegrating in midair.
- To help it maintain its shape, wrap the sphere in string.
- A second piece of string should be wrapped around the string reinforcement. There are countless ways to hang it since this will be the thread you use. Pick thick wire for a more industrial feel, ribbon for a polished finish, or coarse twine for a rough, natural appearance.
- Put your kokedama plant in direct or bright light.
- Help it develop. To keep your kokedama plant hydrated, mist it every day. As soon as the root ball starts to dry out, water it every few days. Do not put off watering your kokedama until the plant looks wilted and droopy. As needed, remove any dead leaves.
What kind of soil are you using for kokedama?
Both homemade and pre-mixed kokedama soil mixes are available online. Below is a recipe for a soil mixture (just skip right to part 2 of the instructions if you purchase pre-mixed soil).
Kokedama soil can also contain clay, limestone to regulate pH, peat moss or coconut coir to store water (to provide essential minerals and to bind the mix together). Small air spaces in the soil are also necessary to promote healthy root development and create channels for excess water to drain.
Clay from Japan called akadama is used to create traditional kokedama. It is employed because it has a lot of air gaps mixed in with the clay-like particles. While still supplying air and drainage pathways for extra water, it can hold enough moisture and nutrients for the plant. Quite cool!
Do I need to water my kokedama frequently?
Our Kokedama shells are constructed of natural peat moss, coconut coir, and potting soil. They are a three-plant option that adds flair to houses and is an environmentally beneficial, biodegradable substitute for hanging pots made of plastic or resin. English ivy, lemon button fern, and brazil heartleaf philodendron.
The beautiful, heart-shaped leaves of the tropical Brasil Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendronhederaceum ‘Brasil’) are green and gold. As the Kokedama grows, its cascading stems take on a lovely appearance. Warmth, bright indirect light, and constant moistness of the ball are all it needs. Philodendrons are tolerant of occasional watering neglect, although twice weekly watering is advised. When necessary, trim the stems. To keep the leaves looking glossy and lovely, wipe them down from time to time with a wet cloth.
Nephrolepis cordifolia ‘Duffii’, often known as the delicate lemon button fern, has airy fronds of bright green and a subtle, lemony scent to it. The fronds on the Kokedama get denser with age and nicely meld with the moss. Light shade with filtered sunlight, and maintain consistent moisture levels in the ball. They normally need to be watered three times per week. The fern stays healthy by being misted frequently.
As long as it is consistently pruned and watered, traditional English ivy (Hedera helix), with its trailing branches of dark green leaves, offers a classic appearance. two to three times a week, drink water. In either indirect strong light or shade, it will thrive. Similarly to the Philodendron, dust off the leaves as necessary.