The extreme heat and dry conditions have forced many growers to scramble to tend to and harvest their stressed fields and gardens, including here on our farm in the Skagit Valley and throughout much of the Western United States. While many flowers bloom profusely in this kind of weather, it is crucial to know the optimum times to harvest and ways to care for your fresh cut blooms immediately after they are cut if you want your flowers to last as long as possible—especially with the added stress of high temperatures. (This is referred to as “stage of harvest” and “post-harvest handling” in the language of flower farmers.)
Here are some of my favorite hints for avoiding heat waves and getting the longest vase life possible from 10 high summer flower varietals.
Zinnias: To ensure a long vase life, zinnias must be harvested at the proper time. Wait too long, and the blossoms will swiftly fade; harvest too soon, and the stalks will sag and droop. The “wiggle test” is a pretty easy way to determine whether your zinnias are ready for harvest. Simply take hold of the stalk a few inches below the flower and gently shake it. The stem will be delicate and flexible if it is young. When you wriggle the stem, it should stay rigid and straight if the plant is ready to be harvested. Cut time has come! To create a long, sturdy stem, deeply cut the plant. Don’t be hesitant to clip off lateral sprouts on the main stem you just plucked; remove the foliage as well. Because zinnias are “cut and come again” flowers, they will continue to grow all season long even after being severely pruned.
We cut zinnias and place them directly into clean, fresh water that has either been supplemented with a drop of chlorine or a CVBn pill. The little conditioning pills, which are frequently marketed for gerber daisies, are actually ideal for all of the “dirty flowers with hairy stems that easily gather dirt and bacteria that can muddy up the water.” The hottest time of the year is when zinnias blossom continuously, and they also enjoy heat throughout the post-harvest period. One of the few flowers we don’t treat in the cooler before delivery or design work is this one. Simply said, we keep them out of direct sunlight in a dark, shaded area of our studio. These few easy steps will give you gorgeous, long-lasting blossoms that last 7–10 days in a vase.
Note: In general, certified organic agriculture does not permit the use of commercial flower food. Using bleach or hot water and harvesting at the right stage are crucial if you have certification. To give your flowers the longest possible vase life even if you are not certified organic, CVBn tablets and other hydration and conditioning options are worth the extra money.
Basil: During the height of the summer, we nearly always add at least one or two stems of Cardinal, Oriental Breeze, Lemon, or Cinnamon basil in our mixed bouquets of flowers for grocery store clients. When the flower heads start to appear and the stems start to harden, I pick the basil. To keep them from wilting, I treat them with Quick Dip (a non-organic alternative) or boiling water (an organic alternative). As these plants wilt quickly, be cautious to harvest them in the cool of the morning or evening. Basil doesn’t like the cold, just like zinnias, so keep them out of the refrigerator to finish their conditioning. The vase is frequently where stems root, and they should last 7 to 10 days.
The fuzzy, aromatic leaves of scented geraniums are a must-have for bouquets, but if you don’t take a few simple precautions, they could wilt easily. In order to avoid the heat of the day, I always attempt to trim the scented geraniums first thing in the morning. I sliced them, placed them in cool water, and gave them 3–4 hours to rest and condition before arranging them. Dip the bottom 2-3 in boiling water for 5-7 seconds or dip the stems in Quick Dip if they are still wilting.
Another flower that is prone to wilting is the hydrangea. Perhaps more significant than the harvesting stage is how you hydrate the produce after it has been sliced. My secret is to cut them when they are still chilly, use Quick Dip quick hydration solution, or cut them into hot water for organic production. I am familiar with some flower growers who swear by dipping the just-cut stems in alum powder (found in the grocery store’s spice aisle), while others would soak the entire bloom in water before use to prevent wilting.
Cosmos: Cosmos generally don’t have a very long vase life, but if you cut them at the proper point, you can extend their beauty. Cosmos should be cut when just one petal is beginning to unfold, and once that happens, let the vase’s other buds and blossoms bloom.
Sunflowers: Harvesting the blooms just as the first few petals begin to lift off of the central disk and removing all but the top few leaves will give your sunflowers the longest vase life possible. This can be challenging for beginners since it still appears to be “closed” and not ready to pick, but if you cut them early, you can prevent bug damage and enjoy longer vase life. These people, who are referred to as “dirty flowers,” may benefit from some bleach in the water or from being cut into a pail of water that has been CVBn-treated.
Celosia: When harvesting crested celosias, also known as “cock’s comb,” wait until the crests are fully grown (or a bit sooner is good too), but before the plant begins to produce seeds. Before plucking celosias with feathers, let them stretch and become feathery. Make sure to remove around 3/4 of the leaves after cutting and submerge them in cool water.
Cerinthe: Harvest during the coldest part of the day, then immediately treat stems by putting the bottom 2-3 inches in boiling water for 7–10 seconds, followed by a cool water bath. After harvest, stems become extremely floppy, but once hydrated, Cerinthe can last up to a week in a vase.
Harvest rudbeckia when the flowers start to unfold. Black Eyed Susans are infamous for fast turning their water murky. By reducing this and extending their vase life, you can expect a vase life of 7 to 10 days by adding a few drops of bleach to the water.
If you have any more advice or methods for gathering high summer blossoms and extending their vase life, please let me know. Please share any more advice in the section below.
How do you cut and cut again zinnias?
The strong, powerful plants of this well-liked, vintage zinnia bear continually for months, p…
The strong, tenacious plants of this well-liked, traditional zinnia bear constantly for months, giving armfuls of delicious, candy-bright flowers to enjoy both inside and out. The gorgeous color palette of Cut and Come Again includes shades of cream, salmon, rose pink, scarlet, butter yellow, magenta, red, and cheery orange. The colorful 2 to 3 inch blooms have numerous petals and occur in double, single, and semi-double flower shapes. The centers of the flowers open into a circle of golden stars.
TO START DIRECTLY IN THE GARDEN
When the risk of frost has passed and the temperature is warm and above 50F (10C) both day and night, sow seeds in a well-tended seed bed in direct sunlight. Plant seeds in rows spaced 12 inches apart, 3 inches apart, and cover with dirt that is about 1/2 inch deep. While waiting for germination, keep the soil evenly moist.
TO START EARLY INDOORS
Plant seeds in a container of seed starting mix 1/2 inch deep and 3 inches apart four to five weeks before the latest day of frost. Until seedlings are prepared to be planted outside when temperatures climb over 50F (10C) day and night, keep warm, wet, and with a strong light source.
GROWING NOTES
In regular garden soil and full sun, zinnias thrive. Before seedlings become congested, thin for big, a lot of flowers; appropriate spacing and consistent, even watering assist zinnias stay productive and ward against mildew. For the longest vase life, choose flowers when the blossoms are first opening and the petals are taut. To keep plants branching low and producing the greatest blooms for summer-long bouquets, cut long stems well back into the plant.
Do zinnias grow back after being cut?
Cut and Come Again Zinnias, a popular term that delighted gardeners, was given to the “Pumila” combination of zinnias, which caused a sensation. Since they all grow so easily and bloom for such a long time, their performance is essentially the same. If you cut the wilting flowers, they will all “come again.”
So simple! Why zinnias are so popular: No plant can likely provide you with more color for less effort. This is due to the fact that zinnias are among the easiest plants to cultivate from seed (even young children can do it, and many do! ), that they bloom all season long until the first frost, and that they produce all colors but blue. Another flower that accomplishes all of that come to mind?
How to raise them Really, only good full sun is necessary, however some of the more modern hybrids will even bloom in partial shade. Given that they originate from hot, desert-like settings, they don’t require much water. Soil? Almost any type of soil will do, but if you have access to it, they prefer grittier, faster-draining soil.
For an early flowering, zinnia seeds are ideal for starting indoors. However, make sure to wait until the last of the frost has passed and the earth has warmed up a little before planting them. Since these plants are native to frost-free climates and dislike chilly soil, they are extremely susceptible to frost. You can wait until spring to plant them outside if you’d prefer. They are not at all demanding.
The Wildflower that has been adorned for a long time. The majority of the 20 species of Zinnia found in the wild are from Mexico, and they may all be found in the dry, rocky soils of North, Central, and South America. Since zinnias are one of our most heavily hybridized wildflowers and the rather “ragged” originals don’t resemble our garden beauties, you would be astounded if you saw the wild plants. That’s because hybridizers have been “working on” them for decades after discovering them early.
The Untamed Ones The species Zinnia elegans, a typical wild plant in Mexico, is the one that is hybridized the most. However, several of the other species have been the subject of research in recent years. The Zinnia adapts fast and willingly to practically whatever the hybridizers wish to do, much like the Dahlia (also from Mexico): larger, taller, or smaller blooms. colorful flower varieties. They appear to be able to do anything to Zinnias, no matter what it is.
Because of this, zinnias have been a mainstay among major color-makers in gardens since the time of your great-grandmother, and new varieties are being developed for our gardens virtually every year.
Do zinnias bloom again after being deadheaded?
One of the most crucial tasks in learning how to cultivate zinnias is to deadhead the blooms in order to keep your plants in bloom. By extending the blooming period of the plant, deadheading zinnias encourages the flowers to continue to bloom.
Cutting back the Zinnia flower heads after the blooms start to fade can encourage fresh growth. Because of their incredible hardiness, zinnias can be deadheaded without causing any damage to the plant.
Decide how far back you want to trim the stem to deadhead zinnias. Then, make a precise cut immediately above a row of leaves using a pair of sharp garden scissors. The plant will be encouraged to grow new stems and blossoms where you cut if you do this.