HEY NEIL, I ordered my landscaping business to plant iris and daffodil bulbs in a bed about a month ago. When I came back, I discovered that they had covered the bed with the identical large rock that I had previously used in the nearby area. Will bulbs naturally grow through rocks and bloom?
They will emerge between small to medium-sized rocks, please (up to 2 to 3 inches in diameter). Even though most of them would still find a way to grow around slightly larger stones, you wouldn’t want that kind of floral show in the bed. Based on the rock that was utilized, you (and your landscaper) must make that decision.
HEY NEIL, A very healthy 15-year-old magnolia tree is one of our possessions. We are now debating if it needs to be clipped to get rid of its lower branches. Not very frequently is that done. How should you treat them properly?
REPLY: It’s all a matter of preference. The magnificence of the lower, larger branches that trail back down to the ground appeals to many individuals. When you discuss cutting lower branches from our native eastern redcedar junipers, you consistently receive the same responses. However, there are those who prefer light to shine on the area beneath their trees so that grass can be grown there. If you’re not sure what you want, start observing how others have treated their trees to help you make up your mind. After that, cut each branch off one at a time, beginning with the lowest. This will offer you the chance to turn around before going any further than you might want to.
HEY NEIL, I have a substantial aspidistra bed (cast iron plant). When should I divide it if I wanted to start more?
SUMMARY: Before any new growth starts, late winter would be ideal. It should be in February. Plant the transplants reasonably near to one another because it grows slowly.
HEY NEIL, In my front yard, I’ve attempted two pairs of live oak trees in the same location during the previous eight years, but none of the four trees have gotten much bigger over that period. What is the trick to successfully caring for these trees without gardening experience?
SUBMISSION: Let’s start with the trees. Select a high-quality species that is locally adapted. By choosing live oaks, you’ve already completed that task, so cross it off your list. Second, make sure the tree you purchase is a robust, healthy member of that species. If it is stunted when you purchase it, it will remain stunted after planting. In most circumstances, plants cultivated in containers retain their vigor better than plants balled and burlapped. After that, your plant will only require water and nitrogen to survive. Keep your trees from drying out by fertilizing them with a quality lawn food every few months from March through September (no weedkillers included).
HEY NEIL, In two tiny patches of ground bordered by sidewalk in front of our house, I wish to grow a prickly pear cactus. However, I am unable to remove the grass that has grown there. What ought I to do?
COMMENT: Oh, my. I sincerely hope you’re referring to the prickly pear without a spine. Next April or May, you may use one of the glyphosate herbicides to get rid of the current green and growing grass. There won’t be any herbicidal residue in the soil if you choose a product that only contains glyphosate as an active component. But I feel compelled to warn you about the dangers of keeping any other kind of spined cactus or succulent plant next to a busy intersection. Prickly pears and other opuntias generate spines and glochids, which can be extremely harmful to humans, animals, and even small infants. The last plants I’d ever want to grow in public places are opuntias, yucca, and century plants.
HEY NEIL, Can I cut back my tough hibiscus plants? Now their stems are stripped bare. They must be returning from below, right?
SUGGESTION: Yes, go ahead and prune them now to tidy up the area. You can trim those old stems to within an inch of the ground because they are no longer necessary. Come spring, fresh vegetation will poke its head above the dirt line. You should be aware that hardy hibiscus are among the last of our perennials to reappear in the spring.
Can vegetation climb up rocks?
Since I also employ rocks in the landscape, I won’t really lecture on their sins. However, I’ll list a few advantages and disadvantages and concentrate on how to grow plants successfully in a rock bed.
First, though, a word about the rock. We are always drawn to decorative features while choosing a landscaping rock. But I’ve had to learn the hard way to prioritize function first. It is difficult to maintain rock free of leaves and other detritus, which disintegrate and aid in the germination of seeds. It can be challenging, but with some trial and error, using a leaf blower to remove dirt from landscape rock does work nicely. Small boulders and lightweight lava rock are both easily blown out of the bed. Large, hefty rocks are more stable but can effectively trap debris, making cleanup more difficult. Small rock compacts and does not collect dirt easily, making removal with a low blower setting quite simple.
The use of a rock that won’t break apart and collapse is what I think to be most crucial. That negates the entire point of utilizing permanent rock as opposed to mulch, which decomposes and requires regular replacement. The rock that has crumbled also contributes swiftly to the organic materials that encourages weed growth. A quality hard rock will endure forever. River rock comes in a variety of sizes and is both smooth and hard. Lava rock has an intriguing hue and is rough and fire-hardened. Moreover, trap rock is fire-resistant. Of course, granite and quartzite are also incredibly tough materials. Simple surface scratching to see if you can loosen any particles will usually identify softer stones that are prone to cracking. These are typically made of sandstone, limestone, or dolomite.
Since rock provides nothing for your plants or the soil and does not provide the best circumstances for growth, there needs to be a sizable benefit. Cost and labor are that benefit in my opinion. Every year for 20 years, I spent thousands of dollars on mulch purchases. Since I bought mulch by the truckload and scooped it up personally, I did get a lot of mulch for my money. However, it also required wheelbarrowing massive loads of mulch up and down hills after being removed from a drop side truck. fantastic workout However, I am no longer so young. A large portion of my mulched area was an ongoing operation to encourage ground cover to fill in between what are now giant evergreens. However, I favor rock for the area around my house’s foundation. despite of shortcomings.
Yes, using landscaping rock has several advantages, particularly for foundation beds. If you choose the proper rock, it is primarily a one-time buy. To me, that’s a really significant advantage. Additionally, you can choose a rock type and color that complements your house and landscaping. That significantly boosts curb attractiveness. I’ve already had two significant victories. Regarding foundation plantings, we normally make an effort to choose plants that will thrive in the area and fit the climate for a minimum of 10 years, ideally much longer. Therefore, if you are doing it correctly and are very lucky, removing rock to replace plants should be a very unusual event.
Although foundation landscaping has changed much in recent years, we still enjoy adding some annuals, edibles, and perennials with shorter lifespans that have flowers. We are currently having some issues with that rock. To start, you really do need a porous landscape fabric underneath the rock to stop it from becoming buried and embedded in the ground. (Pls refrain from using plastic) The fabric will aid in preventing weeds from emerging from seeds and roots that are already present in the soil while yet allowing water to permeate. Weeds can now escape through every hole that is made for a plant. Weed seeds will blow into the rock and fall there, sprouting all kinds of things that need to be pulled out. Weeds, though, are a constant problem for us no matter what, so there is nothing new there.
In general, plants dislike being surrounded by rock and fabric since it can restrict their natural growth. Rock is particularly difficult for perennial plants to grow in. When it’s necessary to remove and divide the perennials, the rock and fabric may also present a challenge. In the sun during the day, rock also becomes very warm and holds that heat well. Plants and their roots may become heated as a result, which may be harmful, especially to delicate plants. With the increased heat, some might not be able to survive. For the most part, these problems may be solved with the right planting, maintenance, and plant selection.
When choosing plants, keep in mind:
In rock with landscape fabric, the majority of shrubs, evergreens, and ornamental trees will fare reasonably well.
Choose perennials that can survive without special care, such as native varieties. Consider particular plants for rock gardens.
Tips for using landscaping cloth to plant in rocks:
Planning plant location properly to account for mature size will help you avoid relocating or replacing plants. Although trees and shrubs normally reach maturity at approximately 10 years, they can continue to develop for many years.
Make holes in the landscape fabric that can hold the entire root ball of the perennials. Eventually, you will need to dig it up to divide it, so keep that in mind.
Make holes in the landscaping fabric that can hold the trunks of shrubs and trees when they are fully grown. If the fabric causes an issue, the trunk may girdle itself or grow directly around the fabric.
Leave at least 4 to 6 inches of bare soil around the base of plants and keep the rock away from them. Although the soil can be covered with organic mulch or compost, it shouldn’t get too close to tree or shrub trunks—not by more than a few inches.
Make sure to choose particular spots to fence off if you wish to plant annuals. Planting can be made simple every year by using organic mulch that isn’t covered in fabric.
Until they are established, keep an eye on young plants to make sure they are not overheating and that the soil is not being dried out or overwatered.
The soil behind foundation plantings may not get as much moisture as the exposed soil, especially if you put landscape fabric and decorative rock. If you leave enough space around each plant, the water will have a better chance of contacting the soil and getting to the roots. Use of more than one layer of landscape fabric can further reduce water absorption, thus avoid doing so. Also keep in mind that even mulched foundation beds beneath overhangs may only get very little water. Make sure the plants that are closer to the foundation get enough moisture.
Tulips can grow in gravel, right?
By forcing bulbs to bloom out of season, you can start them indoors. Some of the bulbs that can be planted and cultivated in vases with gravel include crocuses, daffodils, tulips, and irises. Before planting and being exposed to heat, the bulbs must be chilled in the refrigerator.
Can bulbs be planted in stone?
Put pebbles in the container. Put bulbs in the pebbles root-side down, about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up the bulb. Fill the container with water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Keep an eye out for the growth of roots in approximately a week and the appearance of blossoms in 4-6 weeks. Place in a well-lit place, but not necessarily in the sun. Keep an eye on the water levels and add water as necessary to keep the roots always covered. If plants start to grow tall and lanky, secure the stems with a ribbon. If you reside in a warm environment (zones 8–11), you can pluck stems once they turn brown and plant them in the ground to rebloom. Otherwise, discard plants once bulbs have finished blooming and blossoms have withered.
Are stones acceptable to surround plants?
Before you start working on your driveway, the ground where it is located needs to be prepped. This calls for the removal of any slabs or turf that are now covering your driveway. Generally speaking, for the gravel to function correctly, you’ll need to dig 2-3 inches of flat ground (or as flat as you can make it).
You will want a layer of crushed aggregate or something comparable as a subbase if the surface you are working on is uneven in order to raise the surface until it is significantly more level. You can build on this as a solid foundation.
After the base is laid, it should be packed; hiring a roller makes this task simple. The crushed aggregate will be compacted by the roller, leaving it in the ideal condition to work with for your driveway.
The fabric must cover the whole surface of your driveway area. This phase of your project is crucial since it will stop weeds from growing through your driveway and ruining its appearance.
After the cloth is laid, you could wish to edge it with bricks or another type of borders to weigh it down and prevent it from shifting position. The choice is yours, as this is not a compulsory requirement because the stones that will fill your driveway will be substantial enough on their own.
The gravel needs to be laid when the drive’s preparation is finished. When the gravel is delivered, remember to arrange the pile in a spot that sustains the least amount of damage.
Spread the gravel across your driveway at a depth of about 2-3 inches, making sure to cover the entire area. A gravel paving grid is an option since it can give the gravel a sturdy base and lessen the likelihood of slippage.
The grids are straightforward and simple to use, but they are not necessary to finish your gravel driveway.
Your lovely, all-weather driveway is done and ready for use once the gravel has been evenly distributed.
On top of Soil
As previously said, placing decorative stones on top of soil shields plant roots from excessive sun exposure and discourages the growth of weeds. One of the main reasons rocks are frequently seen on top of soil is because doing so is a very efficient strategy to keep your plants healthy for longer.
By laying the proper stones on top of the soil, you may prevent weeds from developing and improve water drainage. Your plants can be drowning in the amount of water they are regularly receiving if you reside in a region with a lot of rain.
You can increase the amount of rainwater that your soil absorbs by layering porous rocks on top of it. This allows the soil to benefit from a reasonable amount of water rather than an excessive amount.