HEY NEIL, I ordered my landscaping business to plant iris and daffodil bulbs in a bed about a month ago. When I came back, I discovered that they had covered the bed with the identical large rock that I had previously used in the nearby area. Will bulbs naturally grow through rocks and bloom?
They will emerge between small to medium-sized rocks, please (up to 2 to 3 inches in diameter). Even though most of them would still find a way to grow around slightly larger stones, you wouldn’t want that kind of floral show in the bed. Based on the rock that was utilized, you (and your landscaper) must make that decision.
HEY NEIL, A very healthy 15-year-old magnolia tree is one of our possessions. We are now debating if it needs to be clipped to get rid of its lower branches. Not very frequently is that done. How should you treat them properly?
REPLY: It’s all a matter of preference. The magnificence of the lower, larger branches that trail back down to the ground appeals to many individuals. When you discuss cutting lower branches from our native eastern redcedar junipers, you consistently receive the same responses. However, there are those who prefer light to shine on the area beneath their trees so that grass can be grown there. If you’re not sure what you want, start observing how others have treated their trees to help you make up your mind. After that, cut each branch off one at a time, beginning with the lowest. This will offer you the chance to turn around before going any further than you might want to.
HEY NEIL, I have a substantial aspidistra bed (cast iron plant). When should I divide it if I wanted to start more?
SUMMARY: Before any new growth starts, late winter would be ideal. It should be in February. Plant the transplants reasonably near to one another because it grows slowly.
HEY NEIL, In my front yard, I’ve attempted two pairs of live oak trees in the same location during the previous eight years, but none of the four trees have gotten much bigger over that period. What is the trick to successfully caring for these trees without gardening experience?
SUBMISSION: Let’s start with the trees. Select a high-quality species that is locally adapted. By choosing live oaks, you’ve already completed that task, so cross it off your list. Second, make sure the tree you purchase is a robust, healthy member of that species. If it is stunted when you purchase it, it will remain stunted after planting. In most circumstances, plants cultivated in containers retain their vigor better than plants balled and burlapped. After that, your plant will only require water and nitrogen to survive. Keep your trees from drying out by fertilizing them with a quality lawn food every few months from March through September (no weedkillers included).
HEY NEIL, In two tiny patches of ground bordered by sidewalk in front of our house, I wish to grow a prickly pear cactus. However, I am unable to remove the grass that has grown there. What ought I to do?
COMMENT: Oh, my. I sincerely hope you’re referring to the prickly pear without a spine. Next April or May, you may use one of the glyphosate herbicides to get rid of the current green and growing grass. There won’t be any herbicidal residue in the soil if you choose a product that only contains glyphosate as an active component. But I feel compelled to warn you about the dangers of keeping any other kind of spined cactus or succulent plant next to a busy intersection. Prickly pears and other opuntias generate spines and glochids, which can be extremely harmful to humans, animals, and even small infants. The last plants I’d ever want to grow in public places are opuntias, yucca, and century plants.
HEY NEIL, Can I cut back my tough hibiscus plants? Now their stems are stripped bare. They must be returning from below, right?
SUGGESTION: Yes, go ahead and prune them now to tidy up the area. You can trim those old stems to within an inch of the ground because they are no longer necessary. Come spring, fresh vegetation will poke its head above the dirt line. You should be aware that hardy hibiscus are among the last of our perennials to reappear in the spring.
Tulips can they grow in gravel?
By forcing bulbs to bloom out of season, you can start them indoors. Some of the bulbs that can be planted and cultivated in vases with gravel include crocuses, daffodils, tulips, and irises. Before planting and being exposed to heat, the bulbs must be chilled in the refrigerator.
Are bulbs possible to grow in stones?
Put pebbles in the container. Put bulbs in the pebbles root-side down, about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up the bulb. Fill the container with water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Keep an eye out for the growth of roots in approximately a week and the appearance of blossoms in 4-6 weeks. Place in a well-lit place, but not necessarily in the sun. Keep an eye on the water levels and add water as necessary to keep the roots always covered. If plants start to grow tall and lanky, secure the stems with a ribbon. If you reside in a warm environment (zones 8–11), you can pluck stems once they turn brown and plant them in the ground to rebloom. Otherwise, discard plants once bulbs have finished blooming and blossoms have withered.
Can flowers be cultivated beneath rocks?
Since I also employ rocks in the landscape, I won’t really lecture on their sins. However, I’ll list a few advantages and disadvantages and concentrate on how to grow plants successfully in a rock bed.
First, though, a word about the rock. We are always drawn to decorative features while choosing a landscaping rock. But I’ve had to learn the hard way to prioritize function first. It is difficult to maintain rock free of leaves and other detritus, which disintegrate and aid in the germination of seeds. It can be challenging, but with some trial and error, using a leaf blower to remove dirt from landscape rock does work nicely. Small boulders and lightweight lava rock are both easily blown out of the bed. Large, hefty rocks are more stable but can effectively trap debris, making cleanup more difficult. Small rock compacts and does not collect dirt easily, making removal with a low blower setting quite simple.
The use of a rock that won’t break apart and collapse is what I think to be most crucial. That negates the entire point of utilizing permanent rock as opposed to mulch, which decomposes and requires regular replacement. The rock that has crumbled also contributes swiftly to the organic materials that encourages weed growth. A quality hard rock will endure forever. River rock comes in a variety of sizes and is both smooth and hard. Lava rock has an intriguing hue and is rough and fire-hardened. Moreover, trap rock is fire-resistant. Of course, granite and quartzite are also incredibly tough materials. Simple surface scratching to see if you can loosen any particles will usually identify softer stones that are prone to cracking. These are typically made of sandstone, limestone, or dolomite.
Since rock provides nothing for your plants or the soil and does not provide the best circumstances for growth, there needs to be a sizable benefit. Cost and labor are that benefit in my opinion. Every year for 20 years, I spent thousands of dollars on mulch purchases. Since I bought mulch by the truckload and scooped it up personally, I did get a lot of mulch for my money. However, it also required wheelbarrowing massive loads of mulch up and down hills after being removed from a drop side truck. fantastic workout However, I am no longer so young. A large portion of my mulched area was an ongoing operation to encourage ground cover to fill in between what are now giant evergreens. However, I favor rock for the area around my house’s foundation. despite of shortcomings.
Yes, using landscaping rock has several advantages, particularly for foundation beds. If you choose the proper rock, it is primarily a one-time buy. To me, that’s a really significant advantage. Additionally, you can choose a rock type and color that complements your house and landscaping. That significantly boosts curb attractiveness. I’ve already had two significant victories. Regarding foundation plantings, we normally make an effort to choose plants that will thrive in the area and fit the climate for a minimum of 10 years, ideally much longer. Therefore, if you are doing it correctly and are very lucky, removing rock to replace plants should be a very unusual event.
Although foundation landscaping has changed much in recent years, we still enjoy adding some annuals, edibles, and perennials with shorter lifespans that have flowers. We are currently having some issues with that rock. To start, you really do need a porous landscape fabric underneath the rock to stop it from becoming buried and embedded in the ground. (Pls refrain from using plastic) The fabric will aid in preventing weeds from emerging from seeds and roots that are already present in the soil while yet allowing water to permeate. Weeds can now escape through every hole that is made for a plant. Weed seeds will blow into the rock and fall there, sprouting all kinds of things that need to be pulled out. Weeds, though, are a constant problem for us no matter what, so there is nothing new there.
In general, plants dislike being surrounded by rock and fabric since it can restrict their natural growth. Rock is particularly difficult for perennial plants to grow in. When it’s necessary to remove and divide the perennials, the rock and fabric may also present a challenge. In the sun during the day, rock also becomes very warm and holds that heat well. Plants and their roots may become heated as a result, which may be harmful, especially to delicate plants. With the increased heat, some might not be able to survive. For the most part, these problems may be solved with the right planting, maintenance, and plant selection.
When choosing plants, keep in mind:
In rock with landscape fabric, the majority of shrubs, evergreens, and ornamental trees will fare reasonably well.
Choose perennials that can survive without special care, such as native varieties. Consider particular plants for rock gardens.
Tips for using landscaping cloth to plant in rocks:
Planning plant location properly to account for mature size will help you avoid relocating or replacing plants. Although trees and shrubs normally reach maturity at approximately 10 years, they can continue to develop for many years.
Make holes in the landscape fabric that can hold the entire root ball of the perennials. Eventually, you will need to dig it up to divide it, so keep that in mind.
Make holes in the landscaping fabric that can hold the trunks of shrubs and trees when they are fully grown. If the fabric causes an issue, the trunk may girdle itself or grow directly around the fabric.
Leave at least 4 to 6 inches of bare soil around the base of plants and keep the rock away from them. Although the soil can be covered with organic mulch or compost, it shouldn’t get too close to tree or shrub trunks—not by more than a few inches.
Make sure to choose particular spots to fence off if you wish to plant annuals. Planting can be made simple every year by using organic mulch that isn’t covered in fabric.
Until they are established, keep an eye on young plants to make sure they are not overheating and that the soil is not being dried out or overwatered.
The soil behind foundation plantings may not get as much moisture as the exposed soil, especially if you put landscape fabric and decorative rock. If you leave enough space around each plant, the water will have a better chance of contacting the soil and getting to the roots. Use of more than one layer of landscape fabric can further reduce water absorption, thus avoid doing so. Also keep in mind that even mulched foundation beds beneath overhangs may only get very little water. Make sure the plants that are closer to the foundation get enough moisture.
Pea gravel can bulbs grow through it?
Some bulbs, like crocus and alliums, will push through the mulch of gravel and gather together to form clumps. Gravel gardens do well with xeriscape plants.
Can tulips be planted beneath rocks?
A wide variety of plants, including evergreens, deciduous shrubs, perennials, annuals, and flowering bulbs, thrive in rock gardens.
Snowdrops (Galanthus), crocuses (Crocus), wild tulips (Tulipa), miniature daffodils (Narcissus), and a surprising variety of other attractive perennial bulbs thrive in rock gardens. They are all beautifully situated against rocks and large boulders, and despite their little size, they have a significant impression. As long as they receive the ideal lighting conditions and are planted in soil with the right drainage, they will emerge from the ground year after year and some will even slowly reproduce.
You will be happy to see the following list of perennial bulbs in the spring or fall because they do well in rock gardens.
Can bulbs penetrate rocks?
Bulbs can pass through little pieces of slate and gravel. Slate and gravel placed on bare soil, however, might later become a great annoyance; in my opinion, composted bark or bark chippings might be preferable (and far less expensive); just be sure to leave room around the bushes’ trunks.
“I am not lost; I am aware of my whereabouts. But I could not know where I am. Pooh the Bear
Tulips can they only grow in water?
Tulips are so hardy that you can even get them to grow in a vase of water without soil.
Love tulips but lack the patience to plant them and wait for the springtime blooms? What if we told you there was a quicker and easier method to enjoy tulips before they would develop in the wild?
Growing tulips inside in a vase of water is a simple method to jumpstart the season for those of you with less patience and brown thumbs!
Daylilies can they grow in rocks?
Gardeners frequently choose daylilies because they are simple to care for and come in a range of hues.
For Family Features, by Kathie Bond-Borie
Even though daylilies only produce one blossom every day, they fill the garden with blooms for several weeks. The traditional colors of orange and yellow have been replaced by a plethora of others that are too numerous to describe here. Just reading a catalog is enough to make a gardener swoon.
There are daylilies for every taste, with flowers that are single or double, ruffled or smooth, big or small. The best aspect is that daylilies only require a somewhat sunny location and average soil.
There are various different subcategories for these plants. In cold climates, deciduous types become dormant, evergreens can withstand frost and continue to thrive all winter, and a third category known as semi-evergreens exists in between. As a general rule, stay away from evergreens north of Zone 7 and deciduous daylilies south of Zone 8.
The height mentioned in nursery descriptions refers to the flower stalk, not the foliage. The largest flower stalks can reach more than six feet in height, while flower stalks on shorter kinds can grow as high as 12 inches.
Six petals make up a single daylily. The second set of petals in double types are frequently ruffled. The size of a flower might be as small as 1 1/2 inches or as large as 8 or 9 inches. Tetraploid daylilies are modern daylilies that contain twice as many chromosomes as typical kinds, giving them larger leaves and blooms. Daylilies now come in a variety of colors other than blue and pure white, and many of their blossoms are bi- or tri-colored.
Daylilies are mainstays of perpetual borders, but they also stand out in other places. Strong daylilies provide ground covers that are weed- and erosion-proof. Place them near waterways, on banks, and at the sides of roadways. Use mini daylilies as an edging for flowerbeds, in pots, or in rock gardens.
Plant drifts of a single variety of daylily when using multiple varieties. From spring to fall, a haphazard mixture nearly always appears uneven. To get a more natural appearance and a greater effect during performance time, group at least three clumps of one kind together.
The recommended amount of daily sun exposure for daylilies is six hours or more. However, they benefit from some afternoon shade and irrigation during bloom in hot and dry areas. Additionally, many of the darker and milder reds retain their color better in partial shade. Daylilies will function relatively well in any zone with half a day of shadow; however, they won’t bloom as aggressively.
Daylilies thrive in a variety of soil types. Daylilies can be planted effectively nearly whenever the ground can be worked. When the shoots first appear in the spring or right after bloom, is the best time to transplant and divide. Plant in the early spring (February or March) or fall in Zones 9 and 10; avoid planting in the middle of the summer. In the Southeast, avoid planting during the height of summer due to the risk of new plants rotting due to the high temperatures and humidity. Move the plants when planting in the fall in cold climates at least a month before strong frosts to give the new roots time to establish themselves and prevent frost heaving.
Leave 18 to 24 inches between plants. Plant at the same depth or a little bit higher than where the last crop was to allow for settling. then water, firm the ground.
While some cultivars can live for 20 years without needing to be divided, others could need to be divided every second or third season. When you detect a decline in bloom production, it’s time.