Selecting the appropriate-sized planter for your hydrangea is the first step in planting. Because their roots are vigorous and quickly fill smaller containers, hydrangeas do not grow well in smaller containers. Additionally, smaller containers dry out far too quickly for hydrangeas. Generally speaking, we advise purchasing a medium to big planter that is at least 2 feet wide.
Make sure there are drainage holes at the bottom of the planter once you’ve chosen it. It is necessary for hydrangeas to be grown in pots because they will decay if the soil lacks adequate drainage. To aid in drainage, we also like to add a layer of rocks at the bottom. The most important stage for healthy plants is proper drainage.
You must then purchase soil made especially for planters. In containers, topsoil can occasionally fail to drain properly. Compost can be applied to the soil to provide additional nutrients.
Plant the hydrangea at the same depth in the soil as it was in the pot it was previously growing in when putting it in the pot. To water the planter without the water washing out the top, leave at least 2 inches between the top of the soil and the top of the planter. To assist the plant stay firmly in the pot, gently press down on the dirt around it to remove any air pockets.
A hydrangea can live in a container for how long?
When hydrangeas outgrow their pot, they must be repotted in order to maintain their health. This often occurs every one to two years.
Once it has done flowering in the fall, carefully remove yours from the container it is now in. Make sure the new garden planter has drainage holes and is about an inch bigger in diameter than the old one. Plant it at the same depth as before.
Can hydrangeas in pots endure the winter?
Hydrangeas in potsWinter Care Bring potted plants indoors before the first frost for the greatest hydrangea winter protection. They can stay outside and be protected by covering the entire pot and plant if they are too heavy to transport.
Will hydrangeas in pots return every year?
Hydrangeas produce beautiful, vividly colored blossoms on globe-shaped flower heads, and they are frequently presented as gifts during the spring holidays. The United States National Arboretum claims that Hydrangea macrophylla is the most widely cultivated species in the country. Hydrangeas make excellent indoor plants and may be grown outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 6 through 8. If you received a potted hydrangea as a present, it was probably already in bloom. After the petals first fade, many people throw away their hydrangeas, but with the right care, the plant will bloom once more.
Which hydrangea varieties can be grown in pots?
These shrubs have a lengthy flowering period, and many of its cultivars bloom in the spring, summer, and fall “mophead
the preferred “Depending on the variety and growing conditions, bigleaf varieties (Hydrangea macrophylla) produce huge, spherical clusters of pink, blue, purple, or even bright green or red blooms.
Additionally, some H. macrophylla cultivars have tiny flowers that resemble lace that are encircled by bigger blossoms; these are known as lacecap hydrangeas.
Depending on the cultivar, H. macrophylla can flower on either old or new wood, and they are quite sensitive to the pH of the soil.
Plants that are grown in the appropriate pH range of 5.2 to 5.5 generally produce blue flowers. The blossoms will turn pink or mauve in soil that is more alkaline, in the range of 6.0 to 6.2.
Another common species, the panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata), is often white. Their flower heads resemble full ice cream cones, and as they age, the petals frequently become a lovely shade of pink.
Panicle variations can be pruned back in the winter and only bloom on fresh wood. They also don’t care much about soil pH, unlike bigleaf varieties, and can grow well in a range of 5.0 to 7.0.
The size and form of the flower head are quite similar to mopheads on shade-tolerant smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens). However, the flowers themselves are smaller and always develop on fresh wood.
Although they are native to the Southeast of the United States, these towering shrubs thrive in Zones 3 through 9. Their initially cream-colored blossoms eventually become green.
Featured are mountain hydrangeas, H. serrata “with a center of small blossoms, lacecap-style blooms.
Similar to H. macrophylla, H. serrata blooms turn blue at lower pHs and pink at higher alkalinities.
The oakleaf hydrangea is the last species suitable for growing in containers (H. quercifolia).
As its name implies, this variety has foliage that resembles oak leaves, and in the fall, it turns scarlet. The white blooms are smaller and grow in cones “greater than in other species. The growing zones for oakleaf variants are 5 to 9.
Can I put my hydrangea plant in a pot outside?
Mophead hydrangeas can be cultivated outside wherever the wintertime temperature stays above -15oC because they are hardy (5oF). However, as they were grown in greenhouses and given fertilizer to induce early flowering, potted hydrangeas sold as houseplants may require some time to acclimate to life outside before being put out. Place them outside in their pots during the day and bring them inside at night to harden them off for one to two weeks before to planting. Hydrangeas that have been grown for outdoor planting can be planted immediately. Mid- to late April, when the soil has had time to warm up, is the ideal time to plant mophead hydrangeas outdoors.
The optimal conditions for hydrangeas are shade from the sweltering afternoon sun and moist, well-drained soil. They are therefore excellent alternatives for shady gardens, and in mid- and late-summer, their dramatic spherical flowerheads are absolutely gorgeous. Regularly water hydrangeas, especially during dry spells, and in the spring or fall, mulch with compost or other organic material.
Because of the soil’s pH (acidity or alkalinity), pink and blue mophead hydrangea blossoms have the unusual ability to change color. The blossoms will be a deeper shade of blue the more acidic the environment is. Flowers turn a gorgeous pink on alkaline soil. The color of white mophead hydrangeas doesn’t alter.
How are hydrangeas kept alive in pots?
If you’ve ever received a hydrangea in a foil-wrapped pot, you likely loved it for a few of weeks before seeing it sadly wilt. You might conclude from it that hydrangeas are poor container plants.
Most hydrangeas that are given in pots as gifts do poorly because they are kept indoors for too long. Others perish because they were grown in a greenhouse and are not cold hardy in your region of the country, even if they are planted outside.
However, hydrangeas can make wonderful potted plants if you choose wisely. What you should know is as follows.
You can utilize hydrangeas in containers in your garden on stands, decks, or patios. This plant looks classy perched atop an antique column.
- Choose a location for the hydrangeas first. You may move them around, which is one of the benefits of growing them in pots. This also makes it simpler to provide hydrangeas with the ideal growing circumstances because many of them like morning sun and afternoon shade. Additionally, you can arrange them to beautify a patio or other area for a celebration or special event.
- If your pots won’t stay in the same spot all the time, search for containers with wheels on the bottom or think about durable, rolling plant stands. Don’t forget that after adding dirt and plants, containers can become rather heavy, and soaking them can make them even heavier.
- For your hydrangea, pick a large container with a diameter of at least 18 to 20 inches. The plant commonly wilts in small pots like the one your gift hydrangea arrived in since they typically dry out too quickly. Drill drainage holes into the bottom of your container if there aren’t any already. Rotting can result from water that accumulates around the roots.
- Next, pick a variety that is advised for your area. (This is a general guideline for growing any plant well.) To choose the best types for your yard, read plant tags or conduct online study. Some hydrangea varieties can grow in USDA zones 3 and 9, while the majority are hardy in zones 4 to 8.
- Although using miniature hydrangeas in pots isn’t required, you might wish to if you have a small yard. Not only do hydrangeas grow tall, but they also become bushy. If not, prepare to prune your plants as they develop. Be careful when conducting your research; see if your variety blooms on new or old wood. You’ll lose the flowers for the following year if you prune at the incorrect time of year.
- Use high-quality potting soil that contains organic materials rather than regular garden soil. If you want the hydrangea to continue growing, don’t plant it higher or deeper than it was in the pot it came in. Make sure there is space below the pot’s rim so you can water.
- To get rid of air pockets, gently compact the dirt close to the roots.
- Water your hydrangea well whenever the top inch or so of the potting soil feels dry. But being underwater is preferable to being overwatered. When they are thirsty, hydrangeas may wilt to let you know. However, this can stress them out, so check them every other day or so. You’ll eventually get a sense for how frequently to water. In times of drought or extreme heat, you might need to increase your watering.
- Although hydrangeas don’t require a lot of fertilizer, you can feed your plants once or twice a year with a commercially available composted manure, a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer, or a slow-release balanced fertilizer. If you reside in a warm environment, wait until after July or August to fertilize. Gardeners in the north can get away with applying fertilizer just once, in June or July. Feeding hydrangeas later, when they should be starting to go dormant for the winter, promotes fragile, fresh growth.
- If your plant already appears to be ill or unhealthy, don’t fertilize it—you’ll just increase its stress. Try to solve the issue instead.
In the winter, should I cover my hydrangea?
Here is professional guidance on how to put hydrangeas to bed for the winter season from guest bloggers Megan Nichols and Jessie Jacobson of Tonkadale Greenhouse in Minnetonka, Minnesota. (They may have more hydrangea trees and shrubs in their zip code than almost anywhere else in the United States, so they are aware!)
The temperature has dropped, and autumnal symbols can be seen everywhere. The garden needs to be put to bed soon. Hydrangeas reward us with large, stunning, and prodigious blooms all season long. You may say that they are givers. It’s time to return the favor now. It’s time to tuck the hydrangeas in with kisses and wishes for sweaty dreams.
Here in Minnesota, our moods can fluctuate as drastically as the unpredictably harsh winter weather extremes, snowfall, and freeze/thaw cycles. Despite the fact that many hydrangeas are regarded as hardy, all of this can confuse them. To survive the winter and come back bigger and better the next year, they require some care. Although hydrangeas cultivated in warmer areas don’t need as much post-season primping as those grown in our zone, there isn’t a single thing that wouldn’t appreciate a little tender loving care right now.
Utilize these suggestions to get the most out of your hydrangeas so that you can be the one to present at this time next season!
(Is pruning in order? No and yes. Here is our recommendation for which hydrangeas should be pruned right away and which should wait until spring.)
Don’t Stop Watering
Make a commitment! I shall water my hydrangeas till the earth freezes solid, you declare while raising your right hand. really good Hydrangeas are thirsty plants by nature, so it’s essential to give them regular, deep watering. We don’t need to get all linguistically nerdy right now, but their name literally means “hydration.” Winter’s cool, dry winds completely drain the moisture from the vegetation, and hydrangeas don’t use lip balm. It need not be heated in order to be dry!
If a freeze is not a concern where you live, water deeply but sparingly during the winter depending on how much rain you get.
This is how: Making a small hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket, filling it with water, and placing it at the base of the plant while it slowly drips out of the bucket is one method. Another option is to lay your hose at the base of the plant for about an hour with the water turned on to a gentle drip.
Give Them One Last Hearty Meal
Composting your hydrangea beds in the fall will give them a boost for the upcoming growing season. Everyone feels better after a full night’s sleep and a filling breakfast. This also applies to hydrangeas. After a lengthy winter’s hibernation, they will be ravenous for some nice compost. Compost can decompose during the winter if it is used now, making nutrients easily accessible in spring. A few inches of compost is advisable even in regions without a deep cold. Only compost is being discussed here! Don’t give your hydrangeas fertilizers that are high in nitrogen because this can encourage them to produce new foliage growth.
This is how: Before laying down mulch in colder climates, top dress the area with compost, well-aged manure, or other organic material after the ground has frozen. This organic fertilizer, which is rich in nutrients, will decompose over the winter, making nutrients available to the plant in the spring. Apply compost in the late fall or early winter in zones that are warmer.
Mulching helps keep moisture in and weeds out in warmer climates while shielding the crown and roots of your hydrangeas from harsh winter temperatures in colder climates. Snow serves as a natural insulator if everything goes as it should. Plants suffer during strange winters with little snowfall and extreme temperature changes. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the plant’s base to offer hydrangeas the best chance of flourishing. While decorative mulch is useful, straw, marsh hay, or dead leaves are suggested instead.
This is how: Apply a 6–8 layer of mulch once the ground has frozen (or late fall or early winter in zones with milder winters). This shields plants from the heave-ho of springtime freeze/thaw cycles, which can yank them out of the ground. Inviting mice to make this their snug winter home, causing rotting and illness, or tricking the plant into believing it’s time to bud, are all consequences of mulching too early. Be patient; you don’t have to do things early simply because your neighbors are.
Keep Them Cozy
The amount of winter cold determines whether or not hydrangeas require protection. Winter protection is not required in zone 7 if the air temperature stays above zero degrees. Wrap or totally cover barely hardy hydrangeas in chilly areas. This is crucial for plants that bloom on old wood, such hydrangeas with mop heads and large leaves (Hydrangea macrophylla). The most recent types of mop head/big leaf hydrangeas, however, bloom on both fresh and old wood, so it’s important to keep that in mind. In their favor and ours! Hardier hydrangea varieties like the paniculata and arborescens don’t often require additional winter care, although really low temperatures might cause its limbs to die back. Consider covering if a colder than usual winter is forecast.
This is how: Wrap plants loosely in a few layers of burlap, making sure to tie it off with strong twine. Making a mulch mountain and covering the majority of the plant is an additional choice. Smaller, newly planted specimens respond well to this technique.
There’s Still Time To Plant!
The first three varieties of hydrangeas can be grown here in Zone 4; oak leaf hydrangeas can also be grown in warmer climates (zones 5 to 9). The optimal time to plant shrubs is in the fall. Just make sure to do all of the aforementioned things, including watering and mulching.
Here are some of our favorites that you can plant now for stunning blooms the following spring.
These late blooming hydrangeas, sometimes known as PeeGee hydrangeas (summer into early fall). They’re covered with elongated, cone-shaped flower heads that start out white or green before blushing into pinks and peachy tones as the season progresses.