Little bulbs like chionodoxas, grape hyacinths, and crocuses prefer sun and free-draining soil.
The majority also do well on shingle or gravel, which makes them ideal for less-traveled areas of parking lots or path borders.
You can disperse the tiny bulbs and cover them after removing enough soil or shingle to reach the appropriate depth.
Likewise, bulbs adore containers. The prettiest displays are made by tulips or hyacinths, but plant other little bulbs as well, especially those that bloom early.
By using large containers, you can increase the wow effect by layering your plantings. Fill the container halfway, add some compost, a layer of bulbs, and then finish planting.
Although the bulbs will reach the same height and bloom at the same time, you will get twice as many blossoms.
Keep formal planting plans straightforward. While it’s wonderful to experiment with a variety of bulbs, utilizing just two or three colours together can result in more beauty and effect. Never be terrified of bold, vibrant colors.
Summer is excellent for subdued details and delicate hues, while spring calls for cheery color in abundance.
Can bulbs grow through paving stone?
HEY NEIL, I ordered my landscaping business to plant iris and daffodil bulbs in a bed about a month ago. When I came back, I discovered that they had covered the bed with the identical large rock that I had previously used in the nearby area. Will bulbs naturally grow through rocks and bloom?
They will emerge between small to medium-sized rocks, please (up to 2 to 3 inches in diameter). Even though most of them would still find a way to grow around slightly larger stones, you wouldn’t want that kind of floral show in the bed. Based on the rock that was utilized, you (and your landscaper) must make that decision.
HEY NEIL, A very healthy 15-year-old magnolia tree is one of our possessions. We are now debating if it needs to be clipped to get rid of its lower branches. Not very frequently is that done. How should you treat them properly?
REPLY: It’s all a matter of preference. The magnificence of the lower, larger branches that trail back down to the ground appeals to many individuals. When you discuss cutting lower branches from our native eastern redcedar junipers, you consistently receive the same responses. However, there are those who prefer light to shine on the area beneath their trees so that grass can be grown there. If you’re not sure what you want, start observing how others have treated their trees to help you make up your mind. After that, cut each branch off one at a time, beginning with the lowest. This will offer you the chance to turn around before going any further than you might want to.
HEY NEIL, I have a substantial aspidistra bed (cast iron plant). When should I divide it if I wanted to start more?
SUMMARY: Before any new growth starts, late winter would be ideal. It should be in February. Plant the transplants reasonably near to one another because it grows slowly.
HEY NEIL, In my front yard, I’ve attempted two pairs of live oak trees in the same location during the previous eight years, but none of the four trees have gotten much bigger over that period. What is the trick to successfully caring for these trees without gardening experience?
SUBMISSION: Let’s start with the trees. Select a high-quality species that is locally adapted. By choosing live oaks, you’ve already completed that task, so cross it off your list. Second, make sure the tree you purchase is a robust, healthy member of that species. If it is stunted when you purchase it, it will remain stunted after planting. In most circumstances, plants cultivated in containers retain their vigor better than plants balled and burlapped. After that, your plant will only require water and nitrogen to survive. Keep your trees from drying out by fertilizing them with a quality lawn food every few months from March through September (no weedkillers included).
HEY NEIL, In two tiny patches of ground bordered by sidewalk in front of our house, I wish to grow a prickly pear cactus. However, I am unable to remove the grass that has grown there. What ought I to do?
COMMENT: Oh, my. I sincerely hope you’re referring to the prickly pear without a spine. Next April or May, you may use one of the glyphosate herbicides to get rid of the current green and growing grass. There won’t be any herbicidal residue in the soil if you choose a product that only contains glyphosate as an active component. But I feel compelled to warn you about the dangers of keeping any other kind of spined cactus or succulent plant next to a busy intersection. Prickly pears and other opuntias produce spines and glochids, which can be extremely painful to humans, animals, and even small children. The last plants I’d ever want to grow in public places are opuntias, yucca, and century plants.
HEY NEIL, Can I cut back my tough hibiscus plants? Now their stems are stripped bare. They must be returning from below, right?
SUGGESTION: Yes, go ahead and prune them now to tidy up the area. You can trim those old stems to within an inch of the ground because they are no longer necessary. Come spring, fresh vegetation will poke its head above the dirt line. You should be aware that hardy hibiscus are among the last of our perennials to reappear in the spring.
Can daffodils grow through vegetation?
A: I read your recent post about reducing the need for mulching by utilizing more groundcover plants. It makes sense to choose liriope. But when other plants like tulips and daffodils try to emerge, will it choke them out? Or will they get along?
A: Spring bulbs can be interplanted with many of the shorter and “looser” groundcovers. For instance, the bulbs of tulip and daffodil plants can push through pachysandra, vinca, sweet woodruff, leadwort, hardy ginger, and even ivy.
A groundcover of pachysandra that I interplanted with golden daffodils around 15 years ago is one of my favorite spring beds in my backyard. The bulbs are still growing and their clusters have even gotten bigger.
On the other hand, liriope plants have extensive root systems that gradually expand until they form a touching mass. When that occurs, it becomes almost impenetrable. That’s fantastic for controlling weeds but not so beneficial for the long-term health of the bulbs.
In the beginning, you could interplant bulbs between the liriope plants, but eventually the liriope would close the entryway.
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What happens if you plant daffodils too shallowly?
Verify the planting directions and plant each bulb at least to the recommended depth and spacing. Digging 2 to 3 inches deeper than the planting depth will help to loosen the soil and encourage deep root growth.
The health and vitality of flower bulbs, especially those intended for perennialization and naturalization, depends mostly on the planting depth and spacing. Too shallow of a planting depth can expose flower bulbs to temperature spikes that could be harmful. When flower bulbs are planted too closely together, their root systems may choke on one another, suffer from lack of water, or get dehydrated.
The basic rule of thumb is to add 3 to 4 inches of soil to the top of each bulb, being careful not to break off any sprout growth in the process. Depending on the cultivar, fall top growth may or may not exist. It’s typical for Muscari, Species Crocus, and some kinds of Narcissus to display some green top growth; plant them gently. In the fall, some Muscari and Crocus varieties might produce some top growth. That is normal. You can disregard it. Just wait till the garden surface has frozen before adding mulch. For more information, see our articles on fall mulching and horticultural advice on tulips, narcissus, crocuses, hyacinths, special miscellaneous bulbs, herbaceous peonies, and lilies.
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Can you plant bulbs in bark chips?
Bark may make an excellent ground cover and mulch. We use it in our fruit cage but not on the beds because I don’t like the way it looks. Each year, I do mulch the beds with compost. It will work best to simply lay your bark chippings on top of the ground; nature will take care of the rest. If you decide to lay it, start the first plantings first.
Even the smallest bulbs will grow through it; in fact, I have a snowdrop and a crocus that seem to have broken through concrete! Since I dug my garden once and for all, 15–17 years ago, I never do it again. Instead, I rely on precise planting and, when I feel like it, as vigorous weeding as I can muster. We only ever dig to plant new trees, fruits, or other things. You might want to check out some books about the “no dig” garden from the library to get your thoughts. Our soil is rather healthy and improving thanks to the compost we add each year, which is then dragged down and used to nourish the soil by worms, beetles, and other creatures. If you go ahead, all you have to do is prepare a spot for your new plants to be planted, and they will be content. Then, draw the bark back over the region so that it doesn’t initially contact the stems. Depending on what you intend to grow in the soil, you should be aware that some bark can modify the pH.
Even though it’s a question of taste, in my opinion, the finer bark looks nicer than the coarser slice if you go ahead. There is nothing to be concerned about, and while it does lessen the depth to which weeds may sink their roots, making removal easier, it won’t stop them from trying!
Tulips can grow in gravel, right?
By forcing bulbs to bloom out of season, you can start them indoors. Some of the bulbs that can be planted and cultivated in vases with gravel include crocuses, daffodils, tulips, and irises. Before planting and being exposed to heat, the bulbs must be chilled in the refrigerator.
How are bulbs planted in rocks?
Put pebbles in the container. Put bulbs in the pebbles root-side down, about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up the bulb. Fill the container with water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Keep an eye out for the growth of roots in approximately a week and the appearance of blossoms in 4-6 weeks. Place in a well-lit place, but not necessarily in the sun. Keep an eye on the water levels and add water as necessary to keep the roots always covered. If plants start to grow tall and lanky, secure the stems with a ribbon. If you reside in a warm environment (zones 8–11), you can pluck stems once they turn brown and plant them in the ground to rebloom. Otherwise, discard plants once bulbs have finished blooming and blossoms have withered.
Can bulbs be planted on rocky soil?
Q: Help! I bought more than 100 daffodil bulbs and got a bulb planter to plant them, only to discover that my soil is so rocky that I can hardly make a hole. My eyes were bigger than my shovel, I now believe. What is the simplest method to plant all these pointless daffodil bulbs, considering that you are meant to be the queen of laziness in gardening?
M.B.: I almost want to reprimand you for calling your extremely intelligent daffodils stupid, but because you’ve granted me a royal title, I’ll give you my lazy gardening advice instead. Leave the single holes behind. Ignore the recommendations for planting your bulbs deep. I hear you saying, “In very rocky soil.” My garden is right next to a river, therefore you should use a pick, rake, or hoe to loosen the dirt as much as you can before arranging the bulbs in big groupings of 25 or more, shoulder to shoulder but not touching. The bulbs don’t have to be buried; they just need to be tucked into the first few inches of soil. Instead, apply two to three inches of compost that has been blended with bark mulch, topsoil, or used potting soil over the daffodil bulbs. The deeper you plant your daffodils, the better; but, if all you can manage is a little soil aeration and mulch on top, you’ll still get blossoms. Deeper planting is best if you want your daffodils to come back every year.
My husband, who you may refer to as a “lawn ranger,” appears fixated with maintaining our front lawn’s short, lush, and impeccable condition. Settle a dispute. When there is a little layer of ice on the grass blades, should he mow the lawn?
M.B. : Control that ranger; even stepping on a lawn during a frost might harm the soil’s air pockets and sensitive structure. If the soil anywhere in your garden is frozen or wet, try to avoid compaction with heavy equipment like power mowers and other gear. “Keep off the grass” is also the rule during really rainy weather. Save the low-growing bent grass for the putting greens when planting lawns in our region; cool-season fescue and perennial rye grasses grow best when permitted to reach 2 to 3 inches in height.
Can you grow flowers in a bed of rocks?
A rock garden requires some preliminary work, like excavating a trench and adding layers of sand and dirt to improve drainage. But vibrant flowers really make a rock garden pop, so the effort is always worthwhile.
The heavy lifting is done at this stage, which is the first step in establishing your blossoming rock garden: bringing in and assembling the boulders that will form the foundation. This stage can also require some assistance from others because you might need to move some of the larger rocks into position. If you can’t discover the rocks you need in your backyard or elsewhere on your land, you can see what is available in your neighborhood home improvement store. Buying landscaping rocks that will seamlessly integrate into your landscape is the challenge.
Selecting the plants and flowers is the next stage after putting the rock formation together. However, experts advise waiting a few weeks before planting in the rock garden since during that period, some dirt will tend to slip away, and you want this settling to occur before the flowers are put. Following this waiting period, you may start planting, however it might take some time and trial and error to determine which flowers work best in your rock garden. Start by planting just a few samples of each bloom in order to be safe. Take note of how these first flowers develop as well as how the rock garden as a whole changes as they do so. You may always move flowers to other areas of the garden based on what you think will look best when they start to bloom. The initial planting of flowers in a rock garden will take some time, but after that, the only actual care you’ll need to give them is the occasional weeding. Beyond that, rock gardens are incredibly pleasing to the sight and refreshingly simple to manage.