Why Is My Euphorbia Plant Dying

A fungus is what causes euphorbia stem rot, commonly known as candelabra cactus stem rot. It spreads to other plants and attacks with peat, dirt, and water splashes. Once the fungus establishes itself, the long stems of euphorbia start to decay at the top of the limbs.

Why are the leaves on my euphorbia dying off?

The withering and dropping off of the leaves is one of the most frequent problems Euphorbia Trigona owners experience.

We make an effort to avoid being ambiguous when providing assistance, but the truth is that the leaves never appear to last indefinitely, and even somewhat improper care for a brief period can result in this problem. It appears to occur after one of the events listed below.

  • excessive water Leaf drop can be caused by using too much water and failing to let the soil dry out slightly in between waterings. Typically, this indicates that the leaves turn yellow immediately before dropping off.
  • inadequate water The leaves are the first thing to die off when a plant is dehydrated. Before they fall, you can typically anticipate some wilting and brown crisping.
  • Too chilly The plant can withstand some freezing temperatures, although the leaves will probably suffer some damage.

This is a clear sign that your plant is having light problems. However, if you still consider the area to be “bright,” such as if it is immediately next to a window, you might not need to move it.

All young leaves will turn to face the window when light from one direction, such as that from a window, causes only little bending. To keep things balanced, simply rotate the pot 1/4 turn every several weeks.

Without a doubt, if the site is really far from light sources, you can be forced to move it to a position with more sunlight.

The light levels are typically too low if you find that your Euphorbia Trigona has lost some of its markings or that the red colours on the Rubra type are fading. Move to a brighter area or gradually subject it to more intense sunshine to correct this.

New growth often has less distinct patterns and is green. This is typical, so don’t be alarmed.

The vast bulk of the plant’s surface will have a “live” or fleshy appearance. But occasionally corking will take place, leaving the plant’s tissue thicker and with a scabby, brown appearance. The area that is impacted will appear dead and may even be mistaken for an illness.

On elder plants, some corking is completely typical and a natural part of the growing process. However, I would anticipate first noticing this on elder growth.

The browning and damage in the image above are visible at the top of a stem, while the older growth below this point is unharmed.

When this occurs, it is much more likely that sun damage, especially too much sun exposure, is to blame for the browning. Even though it appears “natural,” it might detract from the overall design and cannot be “corrected.”

All you can do is stop it from happening in the first place or, if you already see it happening, stop it from growing worse. Move it right away to a place with greater shade if you see any harm just beginning.

One of my plants with the highest pest resistance. Touch wood—I’ve never had any in my collection! They aren’t frequently seen, and if you do, you should have no trouble handling them.

Visitors have noted that springtails can occasionally be seen in the root ball region, however they are generally not a serious issue. Extremely dry weather may also be a problem for spider mites.

If your African Milk Tree has been sitting in wet soil for a while, root rot can develop rather quickly. In essence, it has been severely overwatered for this to occur.

If you have a tendency to overwater your houseplants, you are not alone. However, use a container with drainage holes, and always wait until the top few inches of soil have dried up before watering again.

There isn’t much you can do if the stems are extremely squishy below the soil line. To produce replacements, think about employing any hard material from higher up the plant.

Combining too much direct sunlight with swimming underwater is the most likely cause. This may result in some really unpleasant damage. Read about these issues (corking) above, and also read our care advice regarding the requirements for light and water. This ought to stop further issues. Leave a comment at the end of the post if you’re still unsure.

Euphorbia should be watered how frequently?

Every residence near a Joshua tree has a Euphorbia Ingens. It is known as the “cowboy cactus” and “good luck cactus,” and believe it or not, with the appropriate lighting, they are quite simple and straightforward to maintain. This instantly transforms any space into the boho paradise of your dreams when you throw it in. Euphorbia ingens are quite gorgeous!

Water: During the summer, water your euphorbia every two weeks. However, make sure the soil is fully dry before each watering. Make sure the water drains through the grower’s nursery container before watering. The main enemy of its beauty is excessive watering, which causes root rot. From November to March, don’t water your plants. Just a tiny bit of water is required once a month, if you feel the need to water at all. Allow them to rest since they remain dormant throughout these months.

What does light love, do cacti? Find your new cactus companion a sunny spot where it can live happily ever after.

Moisture: Euphorbia Ingens will blend seamlessly into the typical home environment. They need misting since they prefer it dry.

Pet-safe: Handle your euphorbia with extreme caution. To protect yourself, it is advised to handle with gardening gloves. The white, very toxic African milk sap from the tree, which is present in even the tiniest amounts, can cause excruciating skin irritation. Keep your pets away from this plant!

How can one tell whether euphorbia needs water?

Euphorbia is quite simple to maintain, much like every succulent. When taking care of succulents, there are certain common green thumb guidelines.

  • Your succulent doesn’t require a lot of water. A plastic water dropper should be used to water your succulent every seven to ten days. Give your euphorbia between two and four full squeezes of the dropper after entirely filling it.
  • Light and temperature: For the majority of succulents, indirect or direct light works best. Avoid leaving your succulent in the dark. Additionally, you should generally keep your succulents between 60 and 90 degrees. These plants are typically fairly resilient, but if you want them to flourish, try to keep them away from the harshest environments if you can.
  • Repotting: Just moisten the soil your succulent is currently in, remove it with care, and repot it in a bigger container this time!

Here are some additional pointers and techniques for your euphorbia if you want to be more specific:

  • Give your euphorbia well-drained soil. The roots of this plant cannot be exposed to water for an extended period of time.
  • Euphorbia doesn’t require a lot of irrigation. Just water them when the soil is dry!
  • Make sure the pot has drainage if your plant is housed in one.

Euphorbia has a plethora of characteristics that make it one of the most distinctive succulents to have. The pruning and propagation techniques used by euphorbia are yet another amazing quality. There is no plant that is simpler to take care of.

Use a clean, sharp knife to cut off the euphorbia’s branching portions while pruning it.

After pruning, feel free to spread your euphorbia! The process of propagation is used to grow additional instances of the same plant. If you decide to propagate your one euphorbia plant, it could yield numerous additional euphorbia plants.

Take the bits you cut off and replant the section that was chopped off to do this. Set aside that piece for a few days to dry. When the item is dry (but not completely dried out), place it in a vase of water. Let the roots develop in the water until they are totally exposed. On the sides or where the cut is made, new roots may grow. Simply replant your euphorbia in the ground or a pot. Keep an eye on your euphorbia as it multiplies!

Euphorbia is really simple to take care of. Watching your euphorbia flourish takes no time at all, just as with any other succulent. It only needs basic care given correctly! One of the simplest succulents to care for, the euphorbia just requires occasional pruning and repotting.

How is euphorbia kept alive?

Spurge typically needs full sun and well-drained soil. No one in the family is picky about the soil’s quality, however some can accept shadier surroundings. They may even survive in extremely poor soils and resist dry spells.

The upkeep of euphorbia plants is easy. Give them some light, a little moisture, and keep an eye out for pesky insects like whiteflies. To avoid powdery mildew, provide water underneath the plant’s leaves.

Spurge won’t require much fertilizing. Prior to feeding your plants with a water-soluble plant food, wait until the bottom leaves become yellow.

When the plant becomes out of control, prune. These plants are virtually unkillable and an excellent option for beginning gardeners. Growing Euphorbia to give to a friend is another excellent hobby for a novice.

How may a dying Euphorbia be saved?

Once the limb has been cut off, you can try to propagate the healthy bits by cutting the good sections into pieces and removing the rotting portion. Before planting the raw ends in a grittier soil, let the ends callus over and dip them in cinnamon. Around the areas where you cut that are open, sprinkle cinnamon. Keep infected cuttings isolated.

The plant eventually becomes mottled and diseased since fungicides for this problem are ineffective. With fresh soil that has been dusted with cinnamon and careful, minimal watering, you might be able to maintain it healthy enough to thrive. Cinnamon has a known anti-fungal component that frequently aids.

Are Euphorbia leaves regenerative?

It could just be a normal part of the growth cycle if you’ve noticed that your African Milk Tree is beginning to drop leaves in the fall and winter. In order to conserve energy, African Milk Trees frequently lose a lot of their leaves while dormant. There is absolutely no need for concern because this is completely typical. When spring finally arrives, the leaves will begin to regenerate.

Making sure that no further things are to blame for your African Milk Tree’s leaf loss is important since if anything goes untreated, it could seriously harm your plant. Check your plant carefully to see if you can find any further indications of distress, illness, or anything else that would indicate your plant is in trouble.

Underwatering will lead to your plant losing leaves

In the height of spring or summer, if your African Milk Tree is shedding leaves, this may indicate that something else is amiss, particularly with the watering. Funny enough, your African Milk Tree can lose leaves if it is overwatered or underwatered. Therefore, it’s crucial that you identify the cause in order to avoid incorrectly changing your watering plan.

Here’s how to determine whether your African Milk Tree is submerged:


The issue is definitely a deficiency of water if the leaves that are falling off are extremely dry, crispy to the touch, and appear to be highly dehydrated.

You can quickly determine if your African Milk Tree is losing leaves as a result of underwatering by carefully removing the plant from the container and looking at the potting soil. It’s crucial that you wear gloves when doing this since if swallowed accidently, it can irritate the skin and lead to significant issues. Your plant needs extra water if the soil feels almost like dust when you touch it.

This is a terrific way to be able to detect from the way it looks if your African Milk Tree is submerged. Your African Milk Tree may be losing leaves if you notice that the soil has become compacted and is actually pulling away from the sides of the pot. This suggests that you need to increase watering. It might be difficult to tell when your plants are being underwatered, so this is a fantastic tip to keep in mind for all of your plants.

Euphorbia Care:

Some plants need to be divided or propagated every two to three years, preferably in the early fall or spring, even if they have a short lifespan.

After flowering is complete, many benefit from being severely pruned, at least by one-third. This prevents any free-seeders from taking over and promotes the growth of new, fresh foliage.

Trimming euphorbia:

  • Early in the spring, remove any damaged stems to keep the plant neat and healthy.
  • As soon as the euphorbia blooms, trim the stems at the base.
  • Clip carefully, since new shoots may appear that you wish to preserve.

anything touches your skin because it is a potent irritant. Additionally harmful due to the sap, spurges should be avoided.

euphorbias and yard cats survive for years without trouble, but I don’t have kids or pets.


Check individual entries as perennial euphorbias have varying hardiness, especially in regards to their northern boundaries.

for the plants that are listed here. Some species only have root hardiness further north but are evergreen in southerly zones. Other varieties do well as annuals.

Exposure: Sun or Shade?

Although some euphorbias can take some partial shade, most euphorbias prefer the sun. those with dark purple or reddish coloring

If planted in full sun, the foliage’s coloration will be more dramatic. In fact, just a few species prefer at least dappled.

Others require part shade in the South’s blazing sunshine but can tolerate intense sun in the North, where they can thrive. One option that works well in shadow is Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae.


The ability of spurges to withstand drought is one of its greatest advantages, hence proper drainage is essential.

The “Chameleon” does like more wetness than other animals. Euphorbias are also not fussy about soil, and the majority can

tackle common and sandy circumstances. Fertile soils may promote those varieties that tend to run and spread.

Keeping things lean gives control since people tend to expand beyond their limitations. However, if you want your