You will receive your peony as “bare roots.” This merely indicates that the soil has been removed from the roots, making the plant lighter and cleaner to ship and removing the possibility of the spread of any pests or illnesses that are carried by the soil. There are numerous plant species that are sold and advertised in this manner; it makes them simple to handle and hastens their establishment in the ground.
Your peony roots should be planted in the earth with their tips pointing downward. The planting depth is crucial because if it is too deep, the roots will expand and only partially produce flowers. The growing tips, or buds, should be 2-5 cm below soil level, with the shallow end of this range being appropriate for warmer climates or protected gardens, and the deeper end being appropriate for cold climates. Plants should be spaced 60 to 90 cm apart to allow for growth as they reach maturity.
After planting, give the plant a lot of water right away to assist the roots take root.
After planting
With its vivid scarlet hues, the first leaves to emerge will be easily distinguished. They turn green and eventually become leaves as they grow longer. Although flower buds don’t always form the first spring after planting, they will come next.
Most roots can generate up to five leaf shoots in their first year, but only one or two blooms at most. The number doubles in the second year and does so once again in the third. The peony will then become lush, bushy, and full of blossom stems.
On-going care of Peonies
Peonies are fairly low-maintenance plants, especially when compared to many other common garden plants like roses, sweet peas, or clematis: aphids seem entirely uninterested in them, and slugs (on the whole) do not do much harm.
When in growth, water plants in dry weather and keep in mind that weekly deep watering is preferable to daily lighter, shallow waterings.
Many of the older Victorian cultivars, particularly those with massive double blooms, such as the perennial favorite “Sarah Bernhardt,” require support since their enormous, heavy flowers have a tendency to snap stems.
You are welcome to cut flowers to bring inside. This is safe for the plants and will yield stunning, frequently scented stems for bouquets or containers. Cut off any wilted flower stems when the season’s flowering is complete. For the rest of the growing season, the plants will continue to produce lovely, rich foliage.
The leaves will turn yellow as autumn approaches and the temperature drops, and they will wilt after the first frost. Trim the last of the leaves at this time and level the ground. The next spring will undoubtedly bring more growth.
Lifting, transplanting and dividing Peonies
Peonies are frequently advised against being moved since they won’t recover their original growth patterns. Not in my experience, at least! A peony can be dug up and moved, and it won’t even notice as long as it is done in the early fall, when there is still time for the plant to establish itself and set down roots before winter arrives and it becomes dormant. The plant will then grow normally again in the spring as if nothing had happened when you moved it.
Early autumn is a good time to lift and divide peonies for propagation. To see what you are doing, it is advisable to dig out the entire plant and, if possible, wash off the soil. Use a strong, sharp knife to cut the crown into large pieces, making sure that each piece has four or five buds. It won’t harm the plant if you don’t cut the parts so small that they only have one bud; however, it will take several years before the small divisions begin to bloom.
Replant after that; whether you obtain flowers the following year or not will depend on how healthy your plants are. Normal blossoming should then continue.
Peony Varieties
- The Beautiful Bowl More than 30 years ago, Bowl of Beauty became the first herbaceous peony to grab my attention. It has survived the test of time because it was genuinely developed in the Netherlands and made available to the general public in 1949. Large cerise pink base petals of the flower appear to create a cup to accommodate a profusion of tiny, dazzling cream-white petals that swarm the center. The cup expands into a bowl that may be 20 cm broad during the following days, and the overall effect is breathtaking. There is also a powerful scent. It heightens to 90 cm.
- Belle of Buckeye
- This rare semi-double hybrid, which has won awards, has very dark red, well-rounded petals that almost form a whole ball and that appear lighter in the sunlight. The petals have a tiny wrinkle to them. It will truly brighten up that area of the garden if there are several established plants of this species growing together. 85 cm tall.
- Black Charm
- Peony White Charm is a double hybrid with slightly delayed flowering, white outer petals that are light pink. The center has a green tint when fully open. When cut when in bud, it has a subtle aroma and produces a great cut flower. 90 cm tall.
- Golden Crown
- Few types can provide as drama as this huge, golden yellow, semi-double blossom, which can reach 25cm across and has a hint of scarlet at the base of the petals. Regardless of the weather, it looks its finest around the middle of the summer. It is one of the original hybrids produced by the crossing of the so-called Intersectional or Itoh Peonies, a white herbaceous peony and a yellow tree peony. 90 cm tall.
- Bernhardt, Sarah
- In 1906, this cultivar initially gained popularity. Large, fluffy, apple-blossom-pink flowers with a darker center and fading edges are produced by this plant. In general, it maintains its color well, however in extremely harsh sunlight, the coloring fades to almost white, but this doesn’t really take away from the variety. It received a prized Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society twenty-four years ago for excelling in UK growing conditions. 95 cm tall.
- Emile Debatene, the author
- When in bloom, this peony spreads a delightful aroma and creates a striking image in the late spring and early summer garden. Deep pink, double rose-shaped flowers with a silvery sheen and a center of tiny curled petals are produced by this plant. There is a tuft of extremely small golden stamens deep in the center of the flower, but the majority of the stamens are mingled with the petals.
1) Paris is the response to the Peony Conundrum. Henriette-Rosine Bernardt, the daughter of Julie Bernardt and an unidentified father, gave birth to Sarah Bernhardt in 1844. Sarah, a challenging girl who was raised first in a pension and then in a convent, wanted to be a nun but one of her mother’s lovers, Napoleon III’s half-brother, thought she should be an actress. He made arrangements for her to enroll in the Paris Conservatoire, the government-sponsored acting academy, when she was 16 years old. In time, she rose to become the most well-known actress in the entire world.
Before planting, should you soak peony bulbs?
Planting peony roots in the garden is simple. Just because they seem a little strange, don’t put off planting them. In general, it’s best to plant them as soon as you can after getting them (unless, of course, the ground is still frozen outside!).
Step 1: Choose A Planting Location
To plant your peony roots, decide where in the garden to do so. The leaves of peony plants benefit from 6 to 8 hours per day of direct sunshine for the maximum growth. The plants are able to provide the best display of spring blooms thanks to the generous amount of sunlight. Some afternoon shade may be advantageous for the plants in regions with very hot summers and intense afternoon sunlight. In warmer climes, afternoon shade can help blossoms stay longer and require less water (especially in Zones 7-8).
Peonies prefer soil that drains excess water effectively and require a moist environment to grow. Peonies can grow in less-than-ideal garden soil, but they typically thrive in sandy loam soil with frequent irrigation or rainwatering. In order to produce a free-draining flower bed that allows surplus water to go down to the lower elevation sections rather than ponding around the roots, peonies can be planted in clay soil or other areas that drain poorly on a raised mound-type garden bed.
Step 2: Unpack The Peony Roots
Take the peony roots out of their packaging with care. A mixture of dried peat moss or sawdust is frequently marketed with peony roots. To obtain a good look at the roots, brush the peat or sawdust off of each one.
The peony’s roots are elongated, thick, meaty tubers. Peony roots resemble brown carrots quite a bit. Older roots appear woody and thick, whereas young roots may be flexible and bend slightly. The “crown of the peony plant” is where the peony roots all congregate and come together. The knobby bump at the top is the crown. The new, tiny buds that are emerging from the “crown are the “eyes. Peony “eyes” typically have a pink or white color and have a slightly angular shape.
For planting reasons, the “eyes” of the peony root are the most crucial to locate. The “eyes” must be positioned near the top of the planting hole and at a specific elevation. Check each peony root for eyes by looking closely. Most bare root peonies with 2-3 eyes are available in garden centers and plant nurseries. See the circled peony eyes in the photo up top.
Step 3: Soak The Peony Roots
After months of chilly storage, dormant peony roots are frequently dry. To help them fill up and hydrate, soak them in clean, lukewarm water to give them a head start in establishing themselves in the soil.
To soak the peony roots in, prepare a dish of clean, lukewarm water. Peony roots that are extremely dry can be rehydrated by soaking them for up to four hours. You can soak peony roots for approximately a half-hour if they don’t appear to be overly dry. It’s not necessary to soak peony roots before planting, but it does appear to assist the dormant roots awaken from their sleep (and make watering them less worrisome in the first few weeks after planting).
Step 4: Plant The Peony Roots
For each peony root, create a broad, shallow hole. The length of the peony root should be roughly twice as wide as each hole. The peony root need not be buried much deeper than the planting hole. If you’re planting many peony roots, leave about 3 feet between each one.
The crown and eyes of the peony root should be near the top of the hole. This stage can be a little challenging because some peony roots have unusual shapes. Seek out the pink and white “eyes. The “When the peony root is planted, the eyes should be close to the top. Attempt to position the peony root such that all of the eyes (often 2-3 on one root) are parallel to one another (all at the same approximate elevation). the root of a peony “The final soil surface should be around 1 below the eyes.
Holding the peony root in one hand, backfill the hole with the removed soil. Be careful not to knock any buds or eyes off the peony root’s top, but also take care not to leave any significant air pockets. Examine the height of the eyes in relation to the surrounding dirt in the planting hole once more. Generally speaking, peony “Eyes should be positioned around one inch below the soil’s surface. Zones 2-3 allow for slightly deeper planting of peonies, but in general, flowering should not be compromised by planting the eyes deeper than 2 inches into the ground.
Step 5: Water & Mulch
After planting, thoroughly water the planting area with fresh water. More dirt can be added to top up the soil level until it is flush with the surrounding soil if the soil settles significantly inside the planting hole’s perimeter. Apply a layer of organic mulch after watering to help preserve moisture in the soil and deter weed growth.
Here is a video demonstrating just how to sow bare-root peony roots in the garden:
Where should peonies be planted for optimal growth?
Plant peonies in full sun, rich soil that is well-drained. Do not plant these frequently expensive plants in a soil that is flooded. A neutral or slightly alkaline soil is preferred by the majority of herbaceous peony.
How to plant peonies
As soon as bare-root peony plants are delivered, they should be planted. Planting time for peonies is optimum in the fall or spring. Don’t plant them too deeply because that will lead to subpar outcomes. Before planting, incorporate a lot of thoroughly decayed organic waste. In the spring, apply a balanced fertilizer.
Overwatering newly planted peonies is a typical reason for plant failure, so avoid doing it.
Monty Don demonstrates how to plant ‘Sarah Bernhardt,’ a taller tree peony, and herbaceous peonies in this video guide. He describes the importance of planting depth for peony and how to do it correctly.
When should peony bulbs be planted?
Although perennials, peonies take time to establish themselves and begin flowering while having a very long lifespan. The majority of peonies flower the second spring following planting, though they may bloom one to three years later. However, your perseverance will be rewarded for a very long time with fluffy, fragrant flowers and lovely leaves. Peonies are relatively low-maintenance and trouble-free perennials once they are established. Planting peonies correctly and in a location where they will thrive are essential to their success.
When to Plant Peonies
Fall is the best season to plant peony, with at least six weeks to go before the ground freezes. Peonies can also be planted in the spring, but it might take them a little while longer to start blooming.
Where to Plant Peonies
The majority of peonies grow in full sun, which is defined as 6 to 8 hours of daily direct sunlight. Peonies, however, favor direct morning light over direct afternoon light in southern latitudes. Peonies struggle in poorly drained soils, just like many other perennials. They favor nutrient-rich, well-drained soil that is high in organic matter and has a pH that is neutral or just barely alkaline. You can improve your soil with compost or well-rotted manure if it isn’t in the best condition. The plants can grow rather top heavy with flowers throughout the blossoming season, therefore it’s important to protect them from high winds even though peonies prefer adequate air circulation. Avoid placing peony too close to plants that compete with them for light and nutrients, such as trees and bushes.
Peonies fit easily into perennial gardens and landscapes due to their adaptability. In the flower garden, along a sidewalk, or as a tiny floral hedge, you can plant a specimen. Choose a selection of early, mid-season, and late season kinds if you want to lengthen the peony season and enjoy blooms for up to six weeks. Remember to leave 24-36 inches between most peonies when organizing your plantings.
How to Plant Peonies
Dig a hole for Itoh and herbaceous peonies that will enable you to extend the roots out without bending them. Plant the fleshy peony roots with the eyes no deeper than one or two inches. Peonies might not bloom if they are planted too deeply or too shallowly. Around the roots, tamp down the earth. Water wisely. Over the winter, cover with a 2 layer thin layer of loose mulch, and then remove the mulch in the spring. We also advise using a hoop-style stake to stake your peony at planting time because the blossoms can become extremely heavy and cause the stems to break.