Hydrangeas have huge bloom heads and exude an old-fashioned elegance. How to plant and take care of beautiful floral bushes is explained in our hydrangea growing guide. Additionally, learn the answers to frequently asked questions like “why aren’t my hydrangeas blossoming this year?”
About Hydrangeas
These elegant plants are simple to grow, withstand nearly any sort of soil, and produce an abundance of blossoms that are unmatched in the world of shrubs for their stunning flowers. Clear blue, vivid pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms sometimes grow on the same plant, enticing us with their colors.
From container gardens to shrub borders to group plantings, hydrangeas are great for a variety of garden locations. Breeders seem to give us more possibilities every year, and gardeners have countless expectations for bloom size and color. Varieties abound. Pay attention to the species listed below to get an idea of how your hydrangea will develop as some require different maintenance. The joys you experience will be enhanced when you know what to expect.
Enjoy this tribute to hydrangea beauty and read our guide below to discover how to grow hydrangeas.
Where to Plant Hydrangeas
- The majority of hydrangeas like fertile, moisture-rich soils that drain well. Compost can help improve bad soil.
- Hydrangeas typically prefer some sun. In an ideal world, they would receive full sun in the morning and then some afternoon shade to avoid the intense midday sun. The Bigleaf Hydrangea (H. macrophylla), with its huge, prone-to-wilting leaves, is a prime example of this. Some kinds can withstand more direct sunlight.
- Depending on the kind, place hydrangeas anywhere between 3 and 10 feet apart. Plants should always be spaced according to their anticipated mature size!
When to Plant Hydrangeas
- The optimum season to plant hydrangeas is in the fall, followed by spring. The cooler shoulder seasons are the ideal times to plant shrubs because they will have plenty of time to build a strong root system before the intense heat of summer or the bitter cold of winter.
- In the early morning or late afternoon, plant the shrubs. The plant is less prone to experience heat stress from direct sunshine because it is typically cooler.
How to Plant Hydrangeas
- Gently remove the hydrangea from its container and examine the root ball. Snip off any rotten or dead sections, and if the plant is very root-bound, pry the roots free.
- Make a hole that is two to three times as big and as deep as the root ball. The top of the planting hole should be level with the base of the plant, which is where the stem joins the earth.
- After placing the plant in the hole, add enough soil to fill it halfway. generously hydrate. Fill the remaining space in the hole with soil once the water has been absorbed.
- once more, thoroughly rinse.
How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings
Cuttings of hydrangeas can be easily grown. They easily take root, and the process is a wonderful teaching tool for propagation. This is how you do it:
- Find a branch on a mature hydrangea that is fresh growth and has not flowered. In comparison to older growth, new growth will appear lighter in color, and the stem won’t be as firm.
- Make a horizontal incision 4 to 5 inches down from the branch’s tip. Make sure your cutting has at least three to four pairs of leaves.
- Trim the cutting’s lowest pair of leaves so that they are flush with the stem. If you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Roots develop more readily from these leaf nodes. But make sure to leave at least two pairs of leaves at the cutting’s tip.
- Remove the tip half of any leaves that are still pretty large by cutting them in half. This keeps the leaves from slamming into the sides of the plastic bag you’ll later use to cover the cutting (to keep the humidity up).
- (Optional) Sprinkle rooting hormone and a plant antifungal powder on the stem’s leafless area (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will promote roots and deter decay.
- Prepare a small pot and put moistened potting soil inside. The cutting should be planted in the ground, buried down to the first remaining pair of leaves. Lightly water the area surrounding the stem to close any air spaces.
- Wrap a plastic bag loosely around the entire pot. To prevent the cutting’s leaves from rotting, make sure the bag is not touching them. The bag can be supported by chopsticks or other such objects to keep it off the leaves.
- Put the pot in a warm location that is protected from the wind and sun.
- Only rewater your cutting after the top layer of soil is dry after checking on it every few days to make sure it isn’t decaying. In a few weeks, hopefully, the cutting will start to root! If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, roots have grown.
Watering
- Make sure hydrangeas get enough water for the first year or two after planting and throughout any droughts.
- Over the course of the growing season, water at a rate of 1 inch per week. Three times a week of heavy watering is preferable to shallow watering. Root growth is promoted by this.
- All varieties of hydrangeas benefit from constant moisture, but bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas need more water.
- If the soil is too dry, the leaves will wilt, and there won’t be enough moisture for the flowers to bloom.
- To water thoroughly while keeping moisture off the flowers and leaves, use a soaker hose.
- The best time to water hydrangeas is in the morning to protect them from disease and get them ready for the heat of the day.
- Under your hydrangeas, spread organic mulch to help keep the soil cool and moist, gradually add nutrients, and enhance soil texture.
Fertilizing
You might not need to fertilize hydrangeas if your soil is rich. When fertilizer is applied in excess, blossoms are sacrificed in favor of green growth. A soil test is the most effective tool for determining your fertility requirements.
Apply fertilizer according to the type of hydrangeas you have. Every variety has varied requirements and will profit from applying fertilizer at various times.
- Several mild fertilizer applications in March, May, and June are beneficial for bigleaf hydrangeas.
- Two applications in April and June work best for oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas.
- The only time smooth hydrangea plants require fertilizing is in the late winter.
Winter Protection
- Cover plants with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall, at least 18 inches deep. If at all feasible, create cages out of chicken wire or snow fencing and cover the entire plant, including the tip, with the cages. (Avoid using maple leaves; they have a tendency to mat after becoming wet and may suffocate the plant.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of the queries from readers concern hydrangea trimming. It makes sense that it’s unclear because it relies on the hydrangea kind. Fortunately, identifying which type you have makes determining the best pruning strategy simple. Discover the fundamentals below, then read more about pruning different varieties of hydrangea here.
Pruning Common Hydrangeas
The Bigleaf cultivar of Hydrangea macrophylla is the most popular garden hydrangea shrub. (For more, see below.)
Hydrangeas with large leaves, such as Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris), are pruned AFTER the summer blooms have passed. On stems from the previous season, these kinds bloom (“old wood).
- Avoid pruning after August 1 since flower buds actually grow in the late summer and bloom the next season.
- Dead wood should only be removed in the fall or very early spring.
- To stimulate branching and fullness, trim one or two of the oldest stems by cutting them all the way to the ground.
- Pruning the stems all the way to the base is necessary if the plant is old, neglected, or injured. For the following season, you’ll lose the flowers, but you’ll also revive the plant for subsequent ones.
- The huge Mopheads should not be deadheaded (faded flowers removed); instead, you should leave them over the winter and trim them back in the early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). Deadheading Lacecaps is OK; simply trim down to the second set of leaves below the bloom head.
- Avoid pruning unless it is absolutely required while growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) cultivars in Zones 4 and 5, and then only after blooming. If not, merely remove dead stems in the spring.
Pruning Other Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas called Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) are clipped BEFORE flower buds develop. On stems from the current season, these kinds blossom (“new wood).
- When the plant is dormant in the late winter, prune. The plant will therefore grow new buds in the spring that will result in blossoms even if the winter kills the buds.
- In general, avoid pruning to “shape the bush” and just remove dead branches.
Where should hydrangea plants be planted?
Plant hydrangeas close to a water source in an area with lots of light. Choose a location in the South where there is morning sun and afternoon shade. Hydrangeas can tolerate full-day sun in the north.
Do hydrangeas flourish in Missouri?
MO COLUMBIA
From now until Mother’s Day, bright, striking hydrangeas are available at florists’ shops and garden centers.
“According to University of Missouri Extension gardener David Trinklein, hydrangeas are unusual among potted plants for their regal grace.
Hydrangea blossoms, in contrast to other flowers, can change color from year to year with a little assistance. If the pH of the soil is close to neutral, flowers will bloom pink. By adding aluminum sulfate to the soil to make it acidic, gardeners will receive blue flowers. Aluminum turns flowers blue; sulfate application causes the pH to be lowered so that plants can absorb it. White blossoms remain the same.
Potted hydrangeas look beautiful indoors for several weeks if kept wet. Flowers collapse when they become dry before their leaves start to droop. Flowers that wilt cannot be revived.
When potted hydrangeas have finished blooming, either remove the plant or save it for outdoor planting. “According to Trinklein, your decision may be influenced by both your geographic location and level of gardening enthusiasm.
It is difficult, but you can also rebloom it indoors, he added. Once the plant has completed flowering, prune the shoots so that each one still has two pairs of leaves. Use a high peat moss content soilless growth medium while repotting.
Move the plant outside once the threat of frost has passed. Place the pot where it will receive morning sun and afternoon light shade. Every two weeks, fertilize with a full fertilizer and water regularly. Three stems should be the maximum number to provide for extra-large flower heads. Remove any shoots that point in that direction. To prevent root growth from spreading outside the pot during the summer, sometimes lift the pot. In the summer, pinch back the shoots. By July, you must have completed the last pinch.
In the fall, leave the plant outside as long as you can. In case of a hard freeze, bring inside. Keep the plant’s leaves on until around November 1st. Then, manually remove every leaf or place the plant in complete darkness until every leaf falls. Keep the plant between 35 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit for roughly six weeks to encourage flowering. Watering is not necessary at this time.
Move the plant to a cool, sunny room with nighttime temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit after the cooling phase. Every two weeks or so, fertilize and water well. In around four months, it ought to bloom.
Florist hydrangeas can be planted in the garden if you reside in Missouri’s southern third, according to Trinklein. Plant your hydrangea once the threat of frost has passed, and water it frequently until it takes root. Protect plants from a harsh winter by covering them with upside-down boxes or baskets. Over the plants, you may also place wire cylinders filled with mulch. Mulch needs to be loose because tight mulch traps moisture, which can cause illness to enter flower buds. Also effective are boughs of evergreens. Protection is not required in southern Missouri’s warmer winters.
According to Trinklein, some hydrangea varieties grow better in outdoor settings. One is the hydrangea Hills-of-Snow. The flowers on this plant appear on fresh growth, unlike florist hydrangea. More severe pruning won’t affect the plant’s ability to blossom. It only comes in white, but it has big, beautiful flowers.
Large, pyramid-shaped white flowers are produced by Peegee hydrangeas. It can reach a height of 15 feet in mild regions. In Missouri, it usually has a smaller size.
The Missouri climate is ideally suited for oakleaf hydrangea. Large, spectacular leaves with crimson fall color are present. It works well in dimly lit locations. Early in the summer, it blooms with white flowers. Flowers progressively turn pinkish-purple and remain that way until the fall, when they turn brown.
Keeping hydrangeas away from children and dogs is advised since they contain a mildly harmful toxin.
Which side of the house should hydrangeas be planted on?
Bushes called hydrangeas bear white, pink, or blue blooms. These are small flowers that grow in voluminous bloom clusters. These bushes will typically reach a height of four to six feet and bear flowers that can range in length from six to eighteen inches. These shrubs thrive best in damp soil and are extremely cold hardy. These shrubs prefer some shade and cannot stand full sun or complete darkness. H. anomala, a climbing variation of hydrangeas, is also available. This type can either be let to grow along the side of a structure or planted on a trellis on the north side of the house. It has the capacity to grow as tall as 80 feet. Hydrangeas do well when planted close to small evergreens or woody shrubs because they also do well in woodland regions.
- No matter where in the nation you reside, the north side of your house receives little natural light.
- Hydrangeas do well when planted close to small evergreens or woody shrubs because they also do well in woodland regions.
What time of year should I plant my hydrangea?
Choose a time in late spring or early fall when the nights are cooler and there is little risk of frost. If you garden in an area where the ground freezes, put seeds at least six weeks before the first deadly frost of the fall. This allows plants to establish roots before the ground becomes really cold. To improve root insulation, place a 2-inch mulch layer around plants after planting.