Pinching young zinnias is the key to pruning them back and achieving the longest stems possible from your blossoms. The plant must be cut off at the top, just above the set of leaves, when it is between 8 and 12 inches tall. This will instruct the plant to grow additional stems from the spot where the cut was performed, leading to a more robust display of blossoms.
Another vital piece of advice is to always water your plants in the morning if you want your zinnias to grow as much as possible. The leaves of your zinnias will stay wet if you water them in the evening, making them considerably more susceptible to fungal illnesses. You can encourage the leaves to dry out in the sun by watering your plants in the morning.
The plant will require assistance after a few weeks of development if you are planting a tall variety of zinnia. Fix a stake in the ground near the plant stem and leave a few inches between the plant and stake to offer this. The plant will be able to expand in this manner.
How deep should zinnias be cut?
I was apprehensive about cutting back my tiny Zinnia plants. Everyone advised cutting them back to help them branch out and produce more flowers, and after doing a lot of research and watching several videos on YouTube, I decided to follow their advice. I shuddered and removed them all. Let me tell you, cultivating zinnias was the best choice I ever made! They multiplied like weeds! I have enormous, overgrown plants that have simply continued to bloom all summer!
Zinnia plant pruning is quite simple. Simply wait until they are between 10 and 12 inches tall; you want to ensure that they have a few sets of leaves. You should remove the plant tops when they get to this stage. With a good pair of pruners, I removed the top two sets of leaves by about 4 inches. (See the image above) It’s that simple to prune zinnias!
How are zinnias cut and cut again?
The extreme heat and dry conditions have forced many growers to scramble to tend to and harvest their stressed fields and gardens, including here on our farm in the Skagit Valley and throughout much of the Western United States. While many flowers bloom profusely in this kind of weather, it is crucial to know the optimum times to harvest and ways to care for your fresh cut blooms immediately after they are cut if you want your flowers to last as long as possible—especially with the added stress of high temperatures. (This is referred to as “stage of harvest” and “post-harvest handling” in the language of flower farmers.)
Here are some of my favorite hints for avoiding heat waves and getting the longest vase life possible from 10 high summer flower varietals.
Zinnias: To ensure a long vase life, zinnias must be harvested at the proper time. Wait too long, and the blossoms will swiftly fade; harvest too soon, and the stalks will sag and droop. The “wiggle test” is a pretty easy way to determine whether your zinnias are ready for harvest. Simply take hold of the stalk a few inches below the flower and gently shake it. The stem will be delicate and flexible if it is young. When you wriggle the stem, it should stay rigid and straight if the plant is ready to be harvested. Cut time has come! To create a long, sturdy stem, deeply cut the plant. Don’t be hesitant to clip off lateral sprouts on the main stem you just plucked; remove the foliage as well. Because zinnias are “cut and come again” flowers, they will continue to grow all season long even after being severely pruned.
We cut zinnias and place them directly into clean, fresh water that has either been supplemented with a drop of chlorine or a CVBn pill. The little conditioning pills, which are frequently marketed for gerber daisies, are actually ideal for all of the “dirty flowers with hairy stems that easily gather dirt and bacteria that can muddy up the water.” The hottest time of the year is when zinnias blossom continuously, and they also enjoy heat throughout the post-harvest period. One of the few flowers we don’t treat in the cooler before delivery or design work is this one. Simply said, we keep them out of direct sunlight in a dark, shaded area of our studio. These few easy steps will give you gorgeous, long-lasting blossoms that last 7–10 days in a vase.
Note: In general, certified organic agriculture does not permit the use of commercial flower food. Using bleach or hot water and harvesting at the right stage are crucial if you have certification. To give your flowers the longest possible vase life even if you are not certified organic, CVBn tablets and other hydration and conditioning options are worth the extra money.
Basil: During the height of the summer, we nearly always add at least one or two stems of Cardinal, Oriental Breeze, Lemon, or Cinnamon basil in our mixed bouquets of flowers for grocery store clients. When the flower heads start to appear and the stems start to harden, I pick the basil. To keep them from wilting, I treat them with Quick Dip (a non-organic alternative) or boiling water (an organic alternative). As these plants wilt quickly, be cautious to harvest them in the cool of the morning or evening. Basil doesn’t like the cold, just like zinnias, so keep them out of the refrigerator to finish their conditioning. The vase is frequently where stems root, and they should last 7 to 10 days.
The fuzzy, aromatic leaves of scented geraniums are a must-have for bouquets, but if you don’t take a few simple precautions, they could wilt easily. In order to avoid the heat of the day, I always attempt to trim the scented geraniums first thing in the morning. I sliced them, placed them in cool water, and gave them 3–4 hours to rest and condition before arranging them. Dip the bottom 2-3 in boiling water for 5-7 seconds or dip the stems in Quick Dip if they are still wilting.
Another flower that is prone to wilting is the hydrangea. Perhaps more significant than the harvesting stage is how you hydrate the produce after it has been sliced. My secret is to cut them when they are still chilly, use Quick Dip quick hydration solution, or cut them into hot water for organic production. I am familiar with some flower growers who swear by dipping the just-cut stems in alum powder (found in the grocery store’s spice aisle), while others would soak the entire bloom in water before use to prevent wilting.
Cosmos: Cosmos generally don’t have a very long vase life, but if you cut them at the proper point, you can extend their beauty. Cosmos should be cut when just one petal is beginning to unfold, and once that happens, let the vase’s other buds and blossoms bloom.
Sunflowers: Harvesting the blooms just as the first few petals begin to lift off of the central disk and removing all but the top few leaves will give your sunflowers the longest vase life possible. This can be challenging for beginners since it still appears to be “closed” and not ready to pick, but if you cut them early, you can prevent bug damage and enjoy longer vase life. These people, who are referred to as “dirty flowers,” may benefit from some bleach in the water or from being cut into a pail of water that has been CVBn-treated.
Celosia: When harvesting crested celosias, also known as “cock’s comb,” wait until the crests are fully grown (or a bit sooner is good too), but before the plant begins to produce seeds. Before plucking celosias with feathers, let them stretch and become feathery. Make sure to remove around 3/4 of the leaves after cutting and submerge them in cool water.
Cerinthe: Harvest during the coldest part of the day, then immediately treat stems by putting the bottom 2-3 inches in boiling water for 7–10 seconds, followed by a cool water bath. After harvest, stems become extremely floppy, but once hydrated, Cerinthe can last up to a week in a vase.
Harvest rudbeckia when the flowers start to unfold. Black Eyed Susans are infamous for fast turning their water murky. By reducing this and extending their vase life, you can expect a vase life of 7 to 10 days by adding a few drops of bleach to the water.
If you have any more advice or methods for gathering high summer blossoms and extending their vase life, please let me know. Please share any more advice in the section below.
Do zinnias require pruning?
Zinnias require regular trimming to thrive and to encourage growth. Although trimming zinnias isn’t difficult, it is crucial to know exactly how to do it in order to avoid harming the plant. The most important thing is to avoid heavily pruning the plant. This will only have a detrimental effect on how your zinnias grow.
If you want a bunch of zinnias with brightly colored blooms, deadheading is essential. To induce the formation of new flowers, the old blossoms are chopped off in this manner. The zinnia plant will grow lower to the ground if you deadhead it low on the stem; the opposite is true if you deadhead it higher up the stem. Since zinnias are so hardy, any option works quite well.
Find flowers that are brown or withering to know when to deadhead a zinnia. This is how you can tell when it’s appropriate to cut them off so the other blooms may shine. Cut off each blossom one at a time using hand pruning shears, being sure to leave plenty of the stalk. It’s acceptable if you remove some foliage as well.
Where is the Best Place to Plant Zinnias?
Zinnias grow best in well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter, whether they are grown in raised garden beds, pots, or directly in the ground.
Should You Pinch Zinnia Plants?
Pinching the young plants is the key to creating the best zinnias with the longest stalks. When plants are between 8 and 12 inches tall, cut off the top of the plant, just above a pair of leaves, with a pair of sharp garden pruners.
Should You Deadhead Zinnias?
Deadhead zinnias to prevent fading. Either remove the old blooms once they have faded or cut mature stems to utilize in fresh bouquets for the home. To extend blooming and encourage branching, deadheading and routine harvesting are crucial.
How Long Do Zinnias Bloom?
For the garden, zinnias are a popular cut flower because of how long they bloom. From late spring until the first fall frost, zinnia flowers are in bloom.
Do you need to deadhead zinnias?
Deadheading zinnias or even just cutting some flowers for bouquets stimulates the development of new blooms. Deadheading or cutting and coming again is an excellent option if you want to enjoy fresh zinnia cuts all summer and fall long.
Every week when you go to cut fresh flowers for your kitchen, bathroom, or surprise vases for your friends and neighbors, you can deadhead zinnias. Although deadheading is not necessary, it might still benefit the plants.
Benefits of Deadheading Zinnias
The garden gains many advantages when spent zinnia flowers are removed, including:
- Promote new growth.
- Make the growth season longer.
- Enhance the appearance of your outside environment.
Because zinnias are annual flowers, they may not always bloom again. This implies there are a few things you can do to increase the likelihood of repeat zinnias.
- Avoid deadheading the remaining blossoms and let them go to seed.
- Save these to use as seeds the following growing season.
- Instead, disperse the zinnia seeds from the final blooms that were left standing in the garden to grow zinnias the following year.
Do zinnias reseed each year?
As annual plants, zinnias do not return year after year. In other words, the flowers go through their full life cycle in a single year.
Because they succumb to frosts so quickly, zinnias are extremely susceptible to them. You must either resow every year or allow some of the zinnia blooms to naturally wither and drop to the ground so that the seeds will naturally germinate in order to have flowers in your garden every year.
To gather and store flower seed for springtime planting:
- Allow the blossoms to wither.
- Cut the blossoms off.
- Shake and massage the seeds carefully while holding a bag below.
- Save in seed packets with labels for planting the next spring or summer.
It’s not too difficult to cultivate zinnias because of how simple and low-maintenance they are, especially considering the reward of the lovely blooms that appear in the late summer.
After they bloom, what do zinnias need to be used for?
One of the simplest flowers to plant, zinnias grow quickly and provide a lot of blooms. Additionally, they will continue to bloom right up until the first fall hard frost. Consider trying zinnia flowers this year to add a huge splash of color to your yard.
About Zinnias
Since zinnias are annuals, they will only produce blooms and seeds for one season before dying. The original plant will not reappear the following year. They are excellent for use as a cutting flower or as food for butterflies since they have vivid, solitary, daisy-like flowerheads on a single, tall stem.
Types of Zinnias
Zinnia elegans, the most widely grown zinnia species, has been developed to produce a large number of distinctive variants.
Single, semidouble, or double zinnia blooms are the three most common varieties. The number of petal rows and whether or not the flower’s center is visible serve to distinguish between these forms:
- A single row of petals and the center are both visible on single-flowered zinnias.
- Petal rows abound on double-flowered zinnias, and their centers are hidden.
- Between the two are semidouble-flowered zinnias, which have several rows of petals but discernible cores.
In addition to these shapes, zinnia flowers also occur in “beehive,” “button,” and “cactus” forms. Additionally, the plants themselves come in various heights: taller types function best as a garden bed’s background, while shorter varieties are useful as a border. There is a zinnia for every garden, in fact!
In an annual or mixed border garden, plant zinnias. Smaller zinnias work well as window boxes, edging, or in other containers.
To have a lot of flowers all season long, choose a place that receives full sun (6 to 8 hours of sunlight every day). Additionally, later in the season, foliar diseases like powdery mildew can be avoided by planting in an area with sufficient air circulation.
Although zinnias can grow in a variety of soil types, they prefer organically rich, well-draining soil. The optimal pH range for soil is between 5.5 and 7.5. The blooms will grow more quickly if compost (humus) is added to the soil. Find out more about soil improvements and getting the soil ready for planting.
When to Plant Zinnias
- Because they dislike being transplanted, it is advised that you start your zinnia plants from seed directly in the garden bed. If the correct circumstances are present, they will develop quite quickly from seed.
- It should be noted that zinnias can be grown from seed inside if you like. Just make sure to transfer them gently and young.
- Because zinnias are delicate to frost, wait to plant them until after the last frost in your area. See the frost dates in your area.
- Zinnias can tolerate daily temperatures as low as 60F (16C), although a range of 7484F (2328C) is ideal.
- To prolong the flowering time, sow a new crop of seeds every week or so for a few weeks.
How to Plant Zinnias
- Depending on the kind, place plants 4 to 24 inches apart. (Many common kinds are planted 2 feet between rows and 6 inches apart within the row.) For information about each variety, consult the seed packet’s back.
- Plant zinnia seeds no deeper than 1/4 inch.
- The majority of zinnia cultivars will produce seedlings in just 4 to 7 days, but it may take up to two months or more for blooms to appear (depending on planting site and climate).
- To promote air circulation, thin seedlings when they are three inches tall, spacing them 6 to 18 inches apart. As a result, powdery mildew is less likely to grow.
- To promote development and blossoms, keep the soil’s moisture level moderate and apply a mild fertilizer.
- Deadhead zinnias once they have finished blooming to facilitate the development of new blossoms.
- Since zinnias are annuals, they will perish with the first fall hard cold. Let the final blooms of the season fully mature before dispersing their seeds if you want them to reseed.
Zinnias still not your thing? In your garden, try them out for the following six reasons:
- With cultivars from the Dreamland Series, you can have a full-sized flower on a little plant. These zinnias are compact and dwarf, with stems that are 812 inches tall and totally double flowerheads that can be up to 4 inches across with a variety of colors.
- The dwarf, spreading cultivars of the Thumbelina Series have weather-resistant, solitary or semi-double flowerheads in a variety of hues. Their stems can reach a length of 6 inches, and their petals are 1-1/4″ wide.
- One of the largest and tallest of them all, the State Fair Series has huge, double flowerheads that measure 3 inches in diameter. Stems can reach a height of 30 inches.
- Typically, it takes zinnias 60 to 70 days from seed to flower (though it depends on conditions and variety). They are fantastic in a bunch of flowers!
- The tiny, narrow-leafed zinnias are great for hanging baskets and also make lovely dried flowers.
- Zinnias are considered to represent memories of those who have passed away. Discover more about the significance of flowers here.
- Zinnias may be harmed by bacterial wilt, powdery mildew, and bacterial and fungal spots. To prevent illness, keep leaves from getting too damp and correctly space your plants.
- Problems can also be brought on by caterpillars, mealybugs, and spider mites. Spraying should be avoided unless there is a real infestation because some leaf damage is not a problem.
- Thanks to their resistance to deer, zinnias may be able to prevent surrounding flowers from being eaten.