Light: Full sun is ideal for zinnia growth and flowering. Even in warmer climates with afternoon shadow, they can flower there, but they may be more prone to disease and produce fewer flowers.
Soil: Organically rich, fertile soils with good drainage are ideal for growing zinnias. Because zinnia seedlings are susceptible to rotting in cool, damp soils, having well-drained soil is crucial.
Plant zinnia seeds in rows or clusters spaced a few inches apart. Once the plant has four leaves, thin to 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety.
Planting: Plant zinnias in the spring, just about the time you plant tomatoes, when all threat of frost has passed. Growing zinnias from seeds straight in the garden is simple. Start seeds inside four to six weeks before to your last frost date for earlier flowering.
Where can you purchase zinnias?
Few plants have the vibrant variety of color options and substantial flowers that define the Zinnia family. Only dahlias and possibly roses can compete in terms of bloom size, color intensity, and showiness. In exchange for so much generosity from its gardener, the zinnia makes relatively few demands. You can plant zinnias practically anyplace. They don’t have particular preferences for soil or water, but they do need full sun. Their bloom production will increase if you deadhead them more frequently. They are loved by Japanese beetles, but they are also adored by countless butterflies. They are highly prone to growing powdery mildew on their leaves in the middle to late summer, although this does not impair their flowers. Sometimes, but not always, spacing the plants 6 to 8 inches apart is beneficial.
Daisies and zinnias are both members of the enormous Aster family. However, certain varieties of wild zinnias have been discovered as far north as Colorado and as far south as Guatemala. They are predominantly native to Mexico, where a rambling shrub with daisy-like orange to yellow blooms flourishes. Although the image below is of a Mexican sunflower, the original Mexican zinnias closely resembled this plant.
The Spanish first introduced zinnias to Europe in the 1500s after discovering them in Mexico. Zinnia peruviana, a thinly foliated, rangy plant with small flowers whose petals were frequently varied murky hues of yellow and orange, was a truly repulsive sight. By the middle of the 1600s, this plant was well-known throughout Europe, but it was not widely farmed. The initial description of the plant was written by Dr. Johann Gottfried Zinn of Gottingen University in Germany; hence, the zinnia bears his name.
When a zinnia was handed to Linnaeus, a brilliant Swedish scientist and physician, in 1796, it had been given the name Calthe de Bresil, or the Brazilian marigold. It was this zinnia, Zinnia elegans, that the world fell in love with. The ancestor plant from which our contemporary zinnias have evolved is Zinnia elegans. This zinnia had larger, more luxuriant flowers that ranged in hue from deep crimson to light lavender.
The first zinnia seed was made available for purchase to the general public in the United States in 1798. The Americans showed no interest. But the French were starting to take an interest in zinnias, and by 1856 they had created the first flowers that were actually double. The double-flowered zinnias were popular throughout all of Europe and Great Britain, and by 1864, they had returned to North America and were being grown in American gardens in hues including purple, orange, scarlet, and salmon.
The earliest dwarf zinnia variety, Zinnia haageana, arrived in America from Mexico in the early 1860s. By 1876, the public could buy dwarf zinnia seeds from the Philadelphia seed supplier Henry A. Dreer. Today you can still buy Persian Carpet, a kind of Zinnia haageana.
The discovery of a stunning, natural mutation growing in a field of “Mammoth” zinnias by John Bodger of Bodger Seeds Ltd. may have had the greatest impact on the zinnia species. The enormous flowers on this zinnia have a staggering amount of petals. The plants were strong, and it seemed like the variety would stay the same. The Bodger seedhouse created a variety of these zinnias that resembled dahlias during the following few years and offered them to the public in the 1920s under the name “California Giants.” Since these beautiful flowers may be found in every color and shade except blue, America, Europe, and Great Britain fell in love with them. The rest, as they say, is history.
More than 20 zinnia species are currently recognized, but only three are commercially available: Zinnia haageana, Zinnia augustifolia, a little daisy-like zinnia. There are many different varieties of zinnia flowers, which are frequently described as follows:
In single-flowered blossoms, the center of each flower is visible and there is only one row of petals.
Double Semi-Flowered
While flowers can have a few to many rows of petals, the center is always exposed and clearly seen.
complete double flower
Blossoms feature numerous rows of petals, which cover the flower’s core.
Flowering Cactus
Blossom petals are long. To produce a distinctive flower shape, the petals’ edges curl under and the entire petal twists.
Zinnias are really, incredibly, incredibly simple to grow, but they require full sun, which means at least six hours every day. When there is no longer a risk of a frost, plant zinnias. Cast the seed over newly stirred dirt and rake it into the ground, or rake a thin layer of soil on top of the seed. My preferred method for planting zinnia seeds is to use my finger to dig tiny holes in the ground that are spaced 6 inches apart and are no deeper than 1/2 inch. I place a single seed in each hole before packing the soil around it to seal it. After I have planted my seed, I always water. I’ve discovered that spacing the large zinnia plants 6 to 8 inches apart results in strong, vigorous plants and large flowers. When there is sufficient space between the separate plants, powdery mildew can occasionally be kept to a minimum. There isn’t a zinnia cultivar that I am aware of that is resistant to powdery mildew. All you need to properly feed zinnias is a slow-release fertilizer, such as 5-10-5.
Zinnias will grow more blossoms the more you trim them. One thing to keep in mind is that some zinnias fade quickly in the midday light, so if at all feasible, cut your zinnias early.
You may plant all zinnia varieties in containers. When the following three guidelines are followed, they thrive in small garden settings:
1. Provide ample sunshine for the plants. 2. Fertilize the plants WEEKLY using a 5-10-5 fertilizer at maximum intensity. (There is no timed-release fertilizer.) 3. Make sure to regularly water the plants.
When are zinnias in bloom?
They are a lovely, strong cultivar with a long stem that is excellent for cutting. From late July until the first frost, which is often late September, they are accessible. Zinnias are a beautiful summer flower to have in your home, whether you grow them yourself or buy them from a farm.
Do zinnias reappear each year?
As annual plants, zinnias do not return year after year. In other words, the flowers go through their full life cycle in a single year.
Because they succumb to frosts so quickly, zinnias are extremely susceptible to them. You must either resow every year or allow some of the zinnia blooms to naturally wither and drop to the ground so that the seeds will naturally germinate in order to have flowers in your garden every year.
To gather and store flower seed for springtime planting:
- Allow the blossoms to wither.
- Cut the blossoms off.
- Shake and massage the seeds carefully while holding a bag below.
- Save in seed packets with labels for planting the next spring or summer.
It’s not too difficult to cultivate zinnias because of how simple and low-maintenance they are, especially considering the reward of the lovely blooms that appear in the late summer.
Is it difficult to grow zinnias?
If you enjoy bright, low-maintenance flowers, you should think about including zinnias in your yard. According to Venelin Dimitrov of Burpee, “Zinnias are ubiquitous icons of summertime that bloom from mid-summer until the first frost, in crisp, brilliant colors such as pink, red, orange, yellow, green, and white.” “A variety of flower forms, including quilled, dahlia-style, single, semi-double, and double flowers, are in bloom. Furthermore, the seeds are big and simple to handle, and the blossoms frequently draw a variety of butterflies, making them wonderful flowers for beginners and kids to grow.”
Zinnias can withstand heat and drought in addition to being attractive and simple to grow. Dr. Gladys Mbofung-Curtis, a horticultural specialist at Garden Safe, says that they are excellent for hot summer temperatures for gardeners in warmer climes. “Zinnias are one of the easiest flowers to grow since they can grow with very little fertilizer and still produce flowers. Seeds only need minimal garden preparation to sprout, and plants can flower in only a few weeks.”
How late may zinnia seeds be sown?
Zinnia seeds can still be planted now for late summer color that will endure until the first frost. Additionally, they produce stunning cut flowers with a lengthy vase life.
Even the most inexperienced gardener should grow zinnias because they are one of the tried-and-true garden flowers. My first memories of gardening are when I first encountered zinnias. The bush beans and tomatoes set aside for zinnias were a constant source of conflict. My favorite annual flower is still the zinnia, and they now have a prime location next to my back deck where I can enjoy them in the warm weather.
Growing zinnias is simple; they prefer full sunlight and well-drained soil. They may be planted directly in the garden or transferred. Plant them in a peat pot that can be placed directly into the garden or planting bed if you decide to have a head start and want to transplant so as to avoid disturbing the roots.
There are many different types of zinnias. They come in sizes ranging from 6 inches to nearly 4 feet, from dwarf to enormous. The flower heads are available in many different forms, including single and double flowers, spidery shapes, and domes.
The amazing variety of hues is the best feature. The palest pastel hues to the brightest hues are all available in zinnias. They come in solid, multicolored, striped, and specked patterns.
Dead heading zinnias is advised by Michigan State University Extension to ensure flowering from early summer through frost. Zinnias are encouraged to continue performing by dead heading throughout the season. But because zinnias fatigue, I advise putting them in succession every two weeks. I intend to plant in succession beginning in late May and continuing until the first week of July, roughly. This ensures spectacular blooms through the end of September. It’s not too late to plant some zinnia seeds for color that will persist through the first frost in the late summer.
In addition to their amazing garden display, zinnias make fantastic cut flowers and may be used anywhere you need a splash of color. Many zinnia cultivars can stay in a vase for seven to twelve days. The mainstay of the farmer’s market is zinnias as well. Flower farmers would tell that zinnias are one of the most profitable flowers to grow due to their vibrant colors, ease of maintenance, and extended vase life.
The zinnia variants “Benary’s Giant” and “Cut and Come Again” are two of my favorites. Their surnames are biographical. On tall stems that stand between 40 and 52 inches in height, “Benary’s Giant” has huge blooms and dazzling flowers. Cutting the stem just above a bud junction will encourage “Cut and Come Again” to produce continuously throughout the growing season, as will all zinnias.
Do zinnias thrive in containers?
Zinnias provide color to any flower garden, are excellent for cutting, are simple to cultivate from seeds, and are a terrific option for container gardening.
What stands for a zinnia?
Zinnia has a variety of meanings, but the most common ones are friendship, fortitude, everyday memory, goodness, and enduring love.
Zinnia’s Victorian connotation refers to memories of a buddy who is not present or who you haven’t seen in a while.
Zinnias are a hardy flower! It is also appropriate that their symbolism has developed over time to represent persistence in many forms, including spontaneous endurance, since zinnias persist and continue to blossom from youth to old age.
Additionally, zinnias represent a “joyous endurance. They never fail to produce vivid, lovely blossoms despite the stifling summer heat and really any other difficulties it faces, such drought and bugs!
Do zinnias have a single bloom?
The extreme heat and dry conditions have forced many growers to scramble to tend to and harvest their stressed fields and gardens, including here on our farm in the Skagit Valley and throughout much of the Western United States. While many flowers bloom profusely in this kind of weather, it is crucial to know the optimum times to harvest and ways to care for your fresh cut blooms immediately after they are cut if you want your flowers to last as long as possible—especially with the added stress of high temperatures. (This is referred to as “stage of harvest” and “post-harvest handling” in the language of flower farmers.)
Here are some of my favorite hints for avoiding heat waves and getting the longest vase life possible from 10 high summer flower varietals.
Zinnias: To ensure a long vase life, zinnias must be harvested at the proper time. Wait too long, and the blossoms will swiftly fade; harvest too soon, and the stalks will sag and droop. The “wiggle test” is a pretty easy way to determine whether your zinnias are ready for harvest. Simply take hold of the stalk a few inches below the flower and gently shake it. The stem will be delicate and flexible if it is young. When you wriggle the stem, it should stay rigid and straight if the plant is ready to be harvested. Cut time has come! To create a long, sturdy stem, deeply cut the plant. Don’t be hesitant to clip off lateral sprouts on the main stem you just plucked; remove the foliage as well. Because zinnias are “cut and come again” flowers, they will continue to grow all season long even after being severely pruned.
We cut zinnias and place them directly into clean, fresh water that has either been supplemented with a drop of chlorine or a CVBn pill. The little conditioning pills, which are frequently marketed for gerber daisies, are actually ideal for all of the “dirty flowers with hairy stems that easily gather dirt and bacteria that can muddy up the water.” The hottest time of the year is when zinnias blossom continuously, and they also enjoy heat throughout the post-harvest period. One of the few flowers we don’t treat in the cooler before delivery or design work is this one. Simply said, we keep them out of direct sunlight in a dark, shaded area of our studio. These few easy steps will give you gorgeous, long-lasting blossoms that last 7–10 days in a vase.
Note: In general, certified organic agriculture does not permit the use of commercial flower food. Using bleach or hot water and harvesting at the right stage are crucial if you have certification. To give your flowers the longest possible vase life even if you are not certified organic, CVBn tablets and other hydration and conditioning options are worth the extra money.
Basil: During the height of the summer, we nearly always add at least one or two stems of Cardinal, Oriental Breeze, Lemon, or Cinnamon basil in our mixed bouquets of flowers for grocery store clients. When the flower heads start to appear and the stems start to harden, I pick the basil. To keep them from wilting, I treat them with Quick Dip (a non-organic alternative) or boiling water (an organic alternative). As these plants wilt quickly, be cautious to harvest them in the cool of the morning or evening. Basil doesn’t like the cold, just like zinnias, so keep them out of the refrigerator to finish their conditioning. The vase is frequently where stems root, and they should last 7 to 10 days.
The fuzzy, aromatic leaves of scented geraniums are a must-have for bouquets, but if you don’t take a few simple precautions, they could wilt easily. In order to avoid the heat of the day, I always attempt to trim the scented geraniums first thing in the morning. I sliced them, placed them in cool water, and gave them 3–4 hours to rest and condition before arranging them. Dip the bottom 2-3 in boiling water for 5-7 seconds or dip the stems in Quick Dip if they are still wilting.
Another flower that is prone to wilting is the hydrangea. Perhaps more significant than the harvesting stage is how you hydrate the produce after it has been sliced. My secret is to cut them when they are still chilly, use Quick Dip quick hydration solution, or cut them into hot water for organic production. I am familiar with some flower growers who swear by dipping the just-cut stems in alum powder (found in the grocery store’s spice aisle), while others would soak the entire bloom in water before use to prevent wilting.
Cosmos: Cosmos generally don’t have a very long vase life, but if you cut them at the proper point, you can extend their beauty. Cosmos should be cut when just one petal is beginning to unfold, and once that happens, let the vase’s other buds and blossoms bloom.
Sunflowers: Harvesting the blooms just as the first few petals begin to lift off of the central disk and removing all but the top few leaves will give your sunflowers the longest vase life possible. This can be challenging for beginners since it still appears to be “closed” and not ready to pick, but if you cut them early, you can prevent bug damage and enjoy longer vase life. These people, who are referred to as “dirty flowers,” may benefit from some bleach in the water or from being cut into a pail of water that has been CVBn-treated.
Celosia: When harvesting crested celosias, also known as “cock’s comb,” wait until the crests are fully grown (or a bit sooner is good too), but before the plant begins to produce seeds. Before plucking celosias with feathers, let them stretch and become feathery. Make sure to remove around 3/4 of the leaves after cutting and submerge them in cool water.
Cerinthe: Harvest during the coldest part of the day, then immediately treat stems by putting the bottom 2-3 inches in boiling water for 7–10 seconds, followed by a cool water bath. After harvest, stems become extremely floppy, but once hydrated, Cerinthe can last up to a week in a vase.
Harvest rudbeckia when the flowers start to unfold. Black Eyed Susans are infamous for fast turning their water murky. By reducing this and extending their vase life, you can expect a vase life of 7 to 10 days by adding a few drops of bleach to the water.
If you have any more advice or methods for gathering high summer blossoms and extending their vase life, please let me know. Please share any more advice in the section below.