Catmint can be planted anywhere in the spring once the risk of frost has passed once you’ve selected your location. You’ll have a better chance of experiencing a first-season bloom the earlier you plant them. Plants should be spaced 24 to 30 inches apart; they will grow!
Dig a hole twice the size of the pot around, loosen the dirt on the bottom, and backfill with one to two inches of compost to plant transplants in pots. Place the final plant in place, leveling the top of the root ball with the soil line, and then cover with dirt. Place gently and then deeply water. After its first season, catmint is quite drought-tolerant but still requires an inch of rain per week.
My catmint can I divide?
- ‘Walker’s Low’ plants are 30 inches tall and 36 inches wide, with lavender-blue flowers. As a side note, the name is not short because it derives from an Irish garden. It is actually almost as tall as the “Six Hills Giant.” Walker’s Low was chosen by the Perennial Plant Association as their Perennial of the Year for 2007.
Don’t restrict yourself to just these four options if you feel driven to hunt for catmint in your neighborhood garden centers. Numerous other top-notch cultivars are also readily available, including “Dropmore,” “Blue Wonder,” and “Junior Walker,” a scaled-down variety of “Walker’s Low” that stands 16 inches tall.
- Catmint tends to grow wider than tall, so give it lots of room.
- Even while catmint likes direct sunlight, it can also tolerate moderate afternoon shadow.
- Water new plants or transplants until they can survive on their own. Following that, established plants can withstand heat and drought.
- Never fertilize it again. Catmint prefers well-drained, somewhat fertile soil. In fact, a plant may flip over or split in half if the soil is excessively rich. In that case, trim the plant back to make it look neat. Compost added in the spring or fall will provide the plant the nutrients it needs to thrive.
- After the first blooming flush of the plants has finished, shear them back by a third or more. The plants will be more orderly, their size will be limited, and this will encourage a second rush of blossoms later in the summer. The plant will still bloom often and maintain its lovely appearance during the stifling summer months even without being sheared.
- Over the winter, keep any dead foliage in place to help protect the crown. Wait till the beginning of spring to trim it.
- Divide catmint every three to four years, preferably in the spring or early fall, to maintain it healthy. During the first growing season, until the plants take root, keep it well-watered.
- Catmint varieties can grow to be quite huge. Pinch the plant back in the spring after it has grown a few inches tall to encourage a bushier growth habit if you wish to limit the plant’s total size.
- Cut a vertical chunk off of an established clump of catmint in the spring to reproduce it. Make sure the division has a strong root system and a number of new shoots. Till the plant takes root, keep it well-watered.
- Cuttings can also be used to spread catmint. Before flower buds grow in the spring, clip healthy shoots at a length of three inches. The cuttings should be placed in a moist medium, such as sand or a peat-perlite mixture. Within two to three weeks, they should start to root.
- Catmint is typically unaffected by either pests or illnesses. The only issue that can occasionally arise is leaf spot. There is no consensus that the severity of this fungus illness justifies control measures.
- Experience has taught me that some cats are drawn to catmint. If you’re worried about this, cover newly planted or transplanted catmint with chicken wire to stop your cat from consuming it or rolling about in it.
- This plant attracts butterflies and bees like crazy. Additionally, hummingbirds adore it.
- You’ll adore this plant if your garden is plagued by four-legged animals other than cats. Deer, voles, and rabbits are deterred by the foliage’s minty aroma. THIS is a plant that pays for itself, at last!
What time of year should catnip be planted?
- Catnip seeds should be sown inside a few weeks prior to the last spring frost. It takes 7 to 10 days for germination. The tiny catnip seeds are challenging to manage.
- Catnip seedlings should be planted in the garden in the middle to late spring. It would be challenging to keep cats away from the plants if you bruise the leaves while transplanting because this releases the oil that attracts cats.
- Plant catnip outside after the last spring frost and continue to do so through the summer, stopping about six weeks before the first fall frost.
Should I reduce my fall catmint planting?
Catmint and I have a love-hate relationship. If you have a LOT of space for it to take over, it’s a terrific plant for providing cold tones to a space. Fortunately, catmint can be severely trimmed at any time of the year.
You can trim these back in the fall to just a few inches above the ground, but your garden will have a hole in it until they grow back flush in the spring.
If catmint is the cornerstone of your perennial border, regular summers pruning should be combined with more restrained trims of around half the plant’s height during the fall.
Where to plant:
Although they will tolerate some afternoon shadow, most plants prefer full sun, especially when grown in warm areas. Catmint may thrive in almost any well-drained soil type. Root rot can develop on wet or rainy grounds.
How to plant:
Although it is possible to grow plants from seed, buying nursery-grown plants is simpler and more dependable because hybrids may not grow true to seed and certain kinds are sterile. Since many plants have a tendency to grow wider than tall, leave plenty of space between them.
What distinguishes catnip and catmint from one another?
Nepeta cataria, a plant native to Europe and a close relative of the mints, produces catnip (spearmint, peppermint, pennyroyal, etc). The plant or dried herb attracts a lot of cats, and the smell might cause odd behavior patterns. Licking, chewing, head shaking, chin and cheek stroking, rolling, and salivation are a few of these actions. The herb only has an effect on roughly two-thirds of domestic cats. Other cat species, such as lions, leopards, and jaguars, are also impacted. A common folk treatment for fevers, colds, cramps, and headaches is catnip.
Catnip offers therapeutic benefits for both humans and cats, in addition to having insecticidal characteristics. Nepetalactone is the substance in catnip that is active (a component of essential oil extracted from catnip). Nepatalactone is an insect repellent that was developed by Iowa State University researchers in the early 2000s for use against cockroaches, mosquitoes, mites, ticks, spiders, termites, and other pests. Since then, it hasn’t been included in insect repellents that are sold commercially.
Additionally promising for crop protection is catnip oil. In a study, collard greens intercropped with catnip (placed in alternate rows) decreased the prevalence of flea beetles, an insect that is extremely harmful to collards. It has also been demonstrated that catnip extracts can repel harmful insects and the adult and larval stages of the Colorado potato beetle. Caterpillars, moths, and butterflies cannot be harmed by catnip extracts.
Catnip is comparatively simple to cultivate, accepts a wide range of soil types, and if not controlled, has the potential to spread beyond your garden. There are numerous seed firms that sell seed. Since the seed is so tiny, it can be directly sown on garden soil that has been thoroughly prepared and covered with 1/8″ of dirt. As an alternative, it can be planted in a flat after it has five sets of leaves. If you have cats, you might need to keep them away from it until it is established and mature. Once planted, each plant should endure for a number of years. Cutting the root mass in half and replanting allows you to divide established plants. Grow the plants where they have enough room because they can grow rather huge (3 feet tall).
Prior to blossoming, trim stems to gather catnip (early to mid summer). Leaves should be taken off of stems. In a well-ventilated place away from direct sunshine, spread the leaves out on a screen or tray. To provide aeration, turn the leaves once per day. It ought to be dry enough to crumble into flakes after two to three weeks. Put dried flakes in a container with a tight lid or a plastic bag that can be sealed. A few catnip plants will give you a year-round supply if you adore cats.
While similar to catnip in appearance, catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) does not energize cats. It is a mounded shrub with lovely gray-green foliage that grows slowly. Early summer and again throughout the monsoon season are when its abundant blue flowers bloom. Once planted, it is tolerant to both heat and drought. It can self-seed and grow (almost to the point of becoming weedy). These hardy perennials can withstand USDA zone 4 conditions and do well in mountain gardens. The majority of herbivores, including deer, are not drawn to catmint. The majority of gardeners think it makes a fine perennial border plant.
Bees and other beneficial insects are attracted to catnip and catmint. Catnip typically only blooms once per season, but when it does, bees and other nectar-feeding insects are drawn to it. I saw solitary bees feasting on nectar in the early summer, honeybees utilizing it in the middle to late summer, and bee flies and hawk moths using it in the late summer due to catmint’s prolonged bloom time. I cultivate both catmint and catnip. Cats use the catnip that has been gathered. All summer long, the catmint offers beneficial insects both beauty and sustenance. Photos and links to more information are provided below.
Can catnip be moved?
Catnip (Nepeta cataria), which your cats probably adore, isn’t simply for your feline companions. This herb is frequently used to flavor teas. Termites, rats, and roaches may also be deterred by it, according to Georgetown University Medical Center. Catnip is a desirable plant for gardens in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, where it is frequently cultivated in containers. Early spring is the best time to move catnip because it won’t start to grow new plants.
In an area that is 8 to 10 inches deep and 3 to 4 inches broader than the plant, turn the soil over. Add 4 to 6 inches of organic material, such as compost or chopped leaves, to the soil to increase fertility and drainage. Catnip can be grown in the sun or in the shade.
Create a hole in the new planting area that is 3 to 4 inches wider and the same size as the root ball. Backfill the hole with the improved dirt after placing the catnip in the center. Tamp the earth lightly.
Give the catnip that was transplanted one inch of water. Continue watering the soil two or three times a week to keep it moist. Reduce watering once the catnip sprouts new growth and only water when the soil feels dry to the touch 3 or 4 inches deep.
What are some wintertime uses for catmint?
Many catmint variants, including the 3-foot-tall cultivar ‘Six Hills Giant’ (Nepeta x ‘Six Hills Giant’) and compact varieties like ‘Blue Dwarf’ (Nepeta x ‘Blue Dwarf’), are planted in gardens for their delicate blue blooms and fragrant foliage. Catmint can be found growing in zones 3a to 8a of the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s plant hardiness chart, where it is utilized as a low-maintenance perennial in water-conserving landscaping.
In order to remove their late season growth, which is frequently coarse and weedy appearing, catmint needs to be severely pruned in late autumn or early winter. It’s a quick and simple process that will keep your yard neat and clean throughout the winter while also removing hiding places for garden pests.
How can catmint become more bushesy?
Basic catmint maintenance is simple. Catmint plants need constant watering until they get established. Mulch will aid in moisture retention and control weed growth. Pinch back plants after they reach a height of a few inches (8 cm) to encourage bushier growth.
Throughout the summer and fall, catmint blooms. Deadheading faded blossoms encourages new blossoming. It may also assist in avoiding reseeding. However, Nepeta x faassenii, often known as Faassen’s catmint, does not require deadheading because it is sterile. In the fall or after harvest, shear the plants back to half their original size.
Which plants complement catmint well?
There are numerous different plant combinations that are effective with catmint. Consider growing verbena, agastache, lavender, and tufted hairgrass alongside catmint as companion plants.
Plant catmint in a dramatic border with irises and Siberian spurge, or add a splash of color with yarrow to the previously stated rose and catmint combination. For long-lasting blossoms and minimal upkeep, combine yarrow, catmint, agastache, and foxtail lilies.
With catmint, allium, phlox, and white flower lace, spring irises go perfectly. Combine catmint with perennial grasses for a distinct texture. Sneezeweed, catmint, and dahlias all produce magnificent flowers that endure far into the early fall.
Catmint enhances the beauty of coneflower, daylily, and black-eyed susan.
With catmint, the planting combinations are virtually endless. Just keep in mind to group similar plants together. Those that are tolerant of your region and appreciate comparable conditions to catmint, including full sun, average garden soil, and little to no water.
Catmint vs. Catnip
Which is better, catnip or catmint? Plant common names can be confusing, especially when they sound so similar. Nepeta cataria, a widespread member of the mint family with white flowers that can be found all over the United States, particularly in disturbed areas, is known as catnip. These low-growing plants are a favorite among cats, and dried leaf cat toys are known to drive cats crazy.
On the other hand, catmint, another member of the mint family, is a stunning decorative plant that is hardy and flexible but is not as well-liked by domestic cats.
Walker’s Low Catmint: Nearly Perfect
Nepeta faassenii, often known as Walker’s Low catmint, has long served as the benchmark catmint in western gardens. In May, mounds of glistening periwinkle blue flowers begin to open, continuing for one to two months.
The blooms are a haven for hummingbirds, moths, butterflies, and bees, but deer and rabbits appear to avoid them. Catmints are nearly ideal plants since they can withstand drought, bloom for a long time, and withstand our harsh weather.
That is, almost flawless, barring two aspects. The weight of the blooms eventually causes the stalks to drop, opening and flattening the plant’s core, which causes all catmints to flop out a little after blooming.
The majority of catmints found at garden centers are fertile, which means that after blooming and receiving pollinator fertilization, they set viable seeds that disperse throughout the garden and result in an abundance of seedlings growing. Free seedlings are occasionally appreciated (especially those of such a lovely plant), but they are frequently an annoyance.
One more warning: Walker’s Low isn’t actually that “low.” Walker’s Low has a height range of 24 to 30 inches, which is quite low compared to Six Hills Giant, the previous benchmark for garden catmints, which reaches a height of 3 feet. Walker’s Low is actually not as low as its name suggests considering how little it is!
Little Trudy: Compact and Not a Spreader
Try Little Trudy catmint if you want a catmint with a neater appearance, one that stays compact and is more suited for small gardens, or one that won’t seed itself.
Before being released by Plant Select in 2008, Little Trudy was found at Little Valley Wholesale Nursery in Brighton, Colorado, and tested at Colorado State University and the Denver Botanic Gardens. It begins to bloom in the late spring and will continue to softly blossom all summer long. When crushed, the tiny, grey-green leaves release a pleasant scent.
Wildlife benefits: Pollinators such as moths, bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds are drawn to stalks of small, purple-blue blooms.
Growing advice: If desired, prune back the first heavy flush of blooms; a second full flush will occur later in the summer.