Cuttings should be performed in the spring when hydrangeas are starting to leaf out and grow rapidly, according to some experts (which makes sense). Some gardeners swear by rooting them in the winter since their roots will develop more robustly than in the summer (which also makes sense). Therefore, as of right now, I can’t advise on the ideal season. Simply put, I’m using the cutoffs from my hydrangeas’ spring and summer pruning to propagate new plants. Remember that there is only potential benefit if they choose to root because this method is completely free and requires no pressure.
Making cuttings when the sun isn’t directly overhead, such as in the morning or evening, is also advised. Cuttings should then be potted as soon as possible. If you’ve read my guide to growing hydrangeas before, you might recall that cutting the stem too slowly might cause a waxy clog to form.
Where to cut
The majority of specialists appear to advise taking a cutting with a few leaf nodes present. You can see the leaves branching off of the main stem there. You’ll see little bumps where the stem and the leaf connect.
It actually doesn’t appear to make much of a difference as long as enough of the stem is planted in the soil. I’ve been cutting them both above and below a leaf node (or, in some cases, splitting a long stem into two separate cuttings).
Trim down the leaves
I nipped off the majority of the leaves on each stem, working my way up from the bottom (close to the stem is good, with just a small nub).
I kept the final few leaves on top but clipped them down to lessen the overall weight for each plant because the leaves may be highly stressful on a hydrangea stem that doesn’t yet have roots (there is no system to carry water to the leaves).
Dip in root hormone
I’m aware that I’ll draw some criticism for carelessly dipping the cutting into the root growth hormone pot, but whatever, I’ve done it countless times without incident, with other plants, plus the powder travels everywhere, so I don’t like to dump it into a second container until I absolutely have to.
Plant the cutting in soil
The planter already included a mix that was intended to be used for container gardening, which turned out to work really well for this, so I didn’t replace the soil that was there before. I just dug a small hole, placed each powdered stem inside, and compacted the earth so they could stand upright.
Keep it watered
I placed the plant right next to my sliding glass door on the concrete patio. Similar to the other hydrangeas that line the home, it is growing in essentially the same conditions (gets the same kind of light at the same time of day as all the other hydrangeas, rain, protection from heat and wind, etc.). Since the summer has been so wet thus far, I haven’t had to worry too much about watering. The planter keeps moisture really well without becoming soggy, which is one of the reasons I use it.
Wait patiently, but check in
The final step can be challenging at first, but the hardest part is usually waiting. I frequently completely forget about things when I have to wait for them (thus why having a planter that did some of the work for me was ideal). It was evident that at least two were growing after a few weeks (a gentle tug showed resistance, indicating it had roots holding onto the soil). The plant I had considered to be the least promising is currently sprouting new leaves, and I’ll be replanting it in brand-new pots and distributing it to family members very soon!
Not too awful, in my opinion. I am able to generate new plants that cost me about $15 each. Win!
When should hydrangea cuttings be taken?
Late July is the ideal time to take hydrangea cuttings. These cuttings are semi-ripe, which indicates that they come from the growth of the current season, yet they are old enough to have a woody base but are still soft at the tip. When the cuttings are added to compost, the woody foundation keeps them from decomposing.
How to take hydrangea cuttings
Use secateurs to gather material from the hydrangea stems and a knife to trim each cutting when taking hydrangea cuttings. You must place hydrangea cuttings into a pot of grittier compost because water cannot be used to proliferate them due to their woody nature. To keep your cuttings moist until the roots have formed, keep them in a propagator (usually after about six weeks). Winter in a frigid frame or anything comparable. Then, plant the cuttings when they begin to grow in the spring.
Can hydrangea cuttings be rooted in water?
Rooting hydrangeas is not too difficult. While some people have succeeded in rooting them in water, many others (like myself) have never been able to do so.
The image to the right, which Susan Park Cole forwarded to us, shows how hydrangeas can be rooted in water. On sometimes, roots appear when an arrangement is left in water for a prolonged period of time. But in my experience, this approach more frequently fails than succeeds.
How long does it take hydrangea cuttings to take root?
- Take a 5- to 6-inch-long clipping off a limb of the hydrangea shrub. According to the majority of experts, the cutting will thrive if it is taken from a branch that did not bloom this year.
- The bottom two leaf nodes’ lower leaves should be removed. A leaf emerges from the branch at the leaf node. At that time, the majority of roots will form.
- Reduce the largest leaves’ size by around 50%.
- Insert cuttings into damp vermiculite or sterile medium after dipping them in rooting hormone (this step is absolutely optional).
- Well-watered pot should be allowed to drain. Make sure the ground is damp but not drenched. Plastic wrap the pot and the cuttings. Use stakes to try to prevent plastic from coming in contact with the foliage.
TIP: Position cuttings in a well-lit, shaded area. Never expose fresh cuts to the sun. They’ll be heated in the plastic.
Wait to water again until the soil’s surface feels dry. Cuttings will decay if they receive too much water.
In 2-3 weeks, depending on temperature (faster in warm weather) and humidity, cuttings should start to grow roots. Some cuttings take as little as a week to take root. When a cutting is pulled and the pull is resisted, it is rooted. Reminder: It might not be allowed to reproduce plants that have been trademarked or registered.
I adore this simple approach. If you don’t have a lot of hydrangeas, you are only able to root a small number of new plants at once.
When you gently bend a branch down, the area where it will contact the ground has roughly 5 to 6 inches of leaves removed from it. In this location, remove a small amount of bark from the branch’s underside. Ascertain that at least one leaf node will be below the surface.
Don’t remove the branch from the parent plant. Lower the branch into a small trench that is approximately 2 inches deep and generously top it with soil. Put a block or stone on the area that will be buried to ensure that it stays there. Additionally, this aids in keeping the moisture surrounding the branch. Keep it occasionally watered. When the branch from the mother plant develops roots, break it off and plant it in a pot or the garden.
Hydrangeas like humid, partially sunny weather. On the north and east sides of your house, they work well.
Sanitize Your Pruners
By scrubbing the handle and blades of your pruners with rubbing alcohol after dipping a cotton ball in it, you can disinfect them. By taking this precaution, you can protect your new plant from fungal diseases.
Take Cuttings
Cut a green, healthy branch that has not yet developed flower buds on a mature hydrangea plant about 2 inches below a leaf node. Skip the older, woodier stems. Overall, the cutting should be 6 to 8 inches long.
Trim the Leaves
With your pruners, remove all except the top two to four leaves from the cutting, being careful not to harm the stem. Leave a space between the cut and the main stem while chopping the leaves. As a result, the main stem’s integrity is protected.
Dip Stem Into Rooting Powder
Put some rooting hormone powder on the cut end of the stem. Although adding rooting hormone is optional, most growers feel that success rates are increased by doing so.
Prepare a Pot
The quantity of hydrangea cuttings you are starting should be taken into consideration when selecting a pot. A few cuttings should fit in an 8–10 inch terra cotta pot.
A seed-starting potting mix should be added to your pot, and it should be fully moistened. Vermiculite or coarse sand are two more sterile growth mediums that can be used.
Plant the Cuttings
Insert each cutting all the way up to the base of the remaining leaves in the growing medium. Wrap the stems in the mixture, moistening it well.
The potted cuttings should be placed in a clear plastic bag that is just loosely fastened, and they should be placed in an area that receives bright indirect light but not direct sunshine, which might bake the cuttings and make them rot.
When the potting mix feels dry to the touch, add moisture by keeping an eye on it. The soil used for planting needs to be regularly moist but not saturated.
Repot as Needed
Your hydrangea cuttings will grow new roots in a month. You can carefully transplant individual cuttings into their own pots filled with regular potting soil once they do and new green growth starts so they can continue to develop into larger plants. Alternatively, now is the time to put fully established cuttings into the garden.
The young specimens can now start receiving weekly waterings and being treated like mature plants.
Transplant into the Garden
Follow recommended spacing recommendations when adding fresh hydrangeas to the garden by leaving a 4- to 6-foot space between each plant. The new hydrangeas will develop into flowering bushes the next growing season if they are planted in the fall.
Tip
Big leaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) can have their blossom color carefully controlled by altering the pH of the soil with the addition of various soil amendments. Pink blossoms typically grow on alkaline soils, while blue flowers typically grow on acidic soils.
When do hydrangeas bloom?
The type, cultivar, planting zone, and hydrangea blooming season all affect when they bloom. The majority of hydrangeas with new growth form buds in the early summer in preparation for blooming the next spring, summer, and early fall. Hydrangeas may stop flowering in the heat of the summer in hot locations, but they will blossom again in the fall.
How do you cut back hydrangeas?
Hydrangea plants don’t require pruning if they are allowed plenty of room to develop in the garden. Only the periodic clearance of dead wood is necessary.
Do you need to deadhead hydrangeas?
Your hydrangeas will continue to bloom into the fall if you deadhead them. Hydrangeas make wonderful cut flowers, so there’s no need to wait until the flower wilts. Leave the early fall blossoms alone so they can fade naturally. In the days leading up to your freeze date, you don’t want to promote new growth.
How do you control hydrangea color?
The distinction of hydrangeas is that you can modify their color. But keep in mind that not all hydrangea varieties can change their color. H. macrophylla, a species of bigleaf hydrangea, responds to changes in soil pH. Hydrangeas can absorb aluminum thanks to a low soil pH, which gives the blossoms a lovely blue hue. Reduce the pH of your soil by mixing in sulfur or peat moss to enhance the number of blue hydrangea flowers. Throughout the growth season, you can keep amending your soil with extra aluminum sulfate. When you add ground limestone to boost the pH, pink and red blooms shine.
You may precisely modify your hydrangea color using a soil pH test. To avoid the plant from being harmed, keep the pH level below 7.5. In the fall, all hydrangeas will naturally fade regardless of the modifications you’ve made. Don’t worry, the plant will display vibrant, new blossoms once more in the spring.
Can hydrangeas grow in shade?
Although they won’t blossom in complete shade, hydrangeas prefer dappled or infrequent shade. How much sun do hydrangeas need is more important to consider than whether they love the sun or the shade. Your hydrangeas require more sunlight the further north in your garden you are. A general guideline is six hours of sunlight each day. However, southern hydrangeas can thrive with just three hours of sunlight per day.
Can hydrangeas grow in full sun?
While hydrangeas prefer morning sun, they struggle in the hot, afternoon sun. For these gorgeous creatures, partial shade in the later hours of the day is optimal.
Can you grow hydrangeas in pots?
Even if you don’t have enough room in your garden to cultivate hydrangeas, you can still enjoy these lovely blossoms by learning how to grow hydrangea in a pot. As long as you follow the fundamentals of caring for hydrangeas, the procedure is rather straightforward. Select a pot with at least an 18-inch diameter to accommodate the mature size of the particular hydrangea you are growing. In order to maintain the constant moisture level that hydrangeas demand, look for non-porous containers. Excess water will be able to adequately drain thanks to drainage holes. Consider growing dwarf hydrangeas like Buttons ‘n Bows, Mini Penny, and Little Lime.
How do you keep hydrangeas from wilting?
Morning irrigation on a regular basis can assist stop withering. Some hydrangea cultivars simply can’t stand the heat. No matter how much water you give them, they will begin to wilt in the afternoon heat. Mulch applied in layers can help soil retain moisture and stay cool. You shouldn’t be concerned if your hydrangeas bloom again once the day cools. A little midday wilting is preferable to overwatering and drowning your hydrangeas.
How do I cut a hydrangea shrub for a flower?
Using a knife or secateurs, trim immature shoots from the plant to around 7.5cm (3in) long, right below the leaf joint.
To assist prevent water loss and wilting, remove the lower leaves from the stem and, if the top leaves are huge, cut them in half.
Perlite or sharp sand and multipurpose compost can be combined 50:50 to create the rooting mix. It drains effectively and holds moisture.
Put the cuttings in cell trays or around a small pot of compost, water them, and keep them moist and out of the sun.
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