Russian sage is a fuss-free perennial that adds color all season long and is drought resistant. With a modest 28- to 32-inch height, “Denim ‘n Lace” manages the towering and floppy growth of classic Russian sage. Plants that are fully colored resemble lavender. In Zones 4–9, hardy. Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Denim ‘n Lace’ is its botanical name.
Pruning Russian sage requires courage. Russian sage pruning can be intimidating at first, but once you get the hang of it, your plants will become stronger and fuller and put up a more attractive flower display. Although taking tip cuttings may qualify as a pruning action by genuine botanists, pruning is not a part of the propagation of Russian sage.
Russian sage is normally pruned by the regular gardener at the beginning and end of the growth season. With its purple flower spires, Russian sage creates a purple haze in gardens starting in mid- to late summer. The silver-gray stems are encircled by whorls of the fuzzy blossoms, creating an intriguing sight. Plantings are given a great dramatic flair by foot-long flower heads. Pruning Russian sage in the spring properly paves the way for a stunning flower display.
Russian sage’s stems change from being green, soft, and succulent to having a woody component as it ages throughout the growing season. This kind of perennial flower is referred to by gardeners as a semi-woody perennial or shrubby perennial. Russian sage stems should be cut back to 18 inches at the end of the flowering season in cold climates, when the blooms have faded and a deadly frost has occurred. For a more interesting winter garden view, skip the pruning and leave the stems alone. In the coldest regions where Russian sage is hardy, it is good to leave stems in place. zone 4 and zone 5.
Stems freeze as winter approaches and subfreezing temperatures take hold. Depending on how cold it gets and how long it lasts, stems may or may not freeze to the point of death. Russian sage has two sites where new growth appears in the spring: the stems and the plant’s crown, which is where the stem tissue and roots converge. Typically, the crown is hardly visible above ground.
On Russian sage, a harsh winter may kill all of the aboveground stems, and only the crown produces new growth. Stems may only partially die back during milder winters. In this situation, the Russian sage would produce new growth from both the stems and the crown.
Snip stems back to 12 to 18 inches as springtime approaches. Leave 18 inches in place if you’re cleaning up your garden well before the last average frost date. Cut stems down to 12 inches or less if there is no longer any risk of frost.
Zones 4 to 9 are hardy for Russian sage. It might not die back significantly, if at all, throughout the winter in warmer areas. After the blossoms have faded and when winter has arrived, Russian sage should be pruned in regions with mild winters. If you don’t want to see stems throughout the winter, you can give them a severe pruning now, trimming them to a height of 6 to 12 inches. Otherwise, wait until very early spring or late winter to perform a rigorous pruning.
Pruning Russian sage right after after flowering in regions with lengthy growing seasons might encourage a second flush of bloom. Reduce plant growth by 50% to promote reblooming.
What happens if Russian sage isn’t reduced?
Pruning is a crucial component in caring for Russian sages. Russian sage will become very overgrown and woody if you don’t prune it, and that doesn’t seem very appealing.
It’s also crucial to be aware that Russian sage branches die back near the bottom of the plant after the winter, and the plant won’t grow back at the tips. If you don’t prune it, the dead twigs that are visible above the foliage in the spring will remain there all summer.
How is Russian sage pruned?
Russian sage plants require very little watering maintenance. In actuality, once established, Russian sage does well in dry soil and requires little water.
Every other year in the late fall, scatter a spoonful of all-purpose fertilizer or a shovelful of compost around each plant.
Provide a 2-inch (5-cm) coating of pine needles over the winter in areas north of USDA Zone 6 and remove them in the spring when new growth appears.
While leaving the stems and seed pods in the garden until spring adds winter interest, you can trim the stems back to a foot (.5 m) above the ground for a neater appearance.
Pruning is the main part of Russian sage care in the spring and summer. Cut the old stems back to just above the lowest tier of leaves when the new spring growth appears. Shear off the top one-third of the stems if the plant starts to sprawl or spread open in late spring or summer to promote upright growth. If the plant stops blooming in the summer, cut off the top half of the stems. This promotes new growth and a fresh blooming cycle.
By splitting the clumps or taking cuttings in the spring, you can propagate Russian sage plants. Every four to six years, divide the clumps to revitalize the plants and limit their expansion.
Do you remove the Russian sage in the autumn?
Cut back Russian sage, butterfly bush, and pest-free perennials in the late winter or early spring. These plants become more hardy when allowed to stand during the winter, according to research. Additionally, the winter environment is made more interesting by the form, texture, motion, and bird-attracting elements. Trim the Russian sage to a height of 4 inches or less. You can give your plants another clip if they have a tendency to flounder in the heat. Once the plants are 12 inches tall, cut them back halfway. Little Spires is a shorter (four foot tall) cultivar of Russian sage that is less prone to flopping, so those thinking about include it in their gardens might want to give it a try.
Should you trim back the Russian sage?
For us on Nantucket, Russian sage is an excellent plant because it possesses all the characteristics we value in a superb perennial:
- It is resilient and requires little particular care from the gardener to overwinter.
- Most of us on the island have a lean, sandy soil, which is where it operates best.
- Its fragrant, gray-green leaves has just the right amount of fuzz to be particularly deer resistant.
- It has a lengthy interest season, looking fantastic from June through October.
- When seasonal people are present on the island in the middle to late summer, it blooms for a very long time.
- It is extremely adaptable in the environment thanks to its lacy leaves, blue flowers, and open habit. It works well with decorative grasses, can be added to perennial gardens, and creates a striking mass planting.
I’ve also had great success pruning Russian sage in the fall when I take down my spent perennials, even though many of us have been trained to leave it standing and prune it in the spring. Wait until it is dormant, preferably after a frost, but be sure to do so.
Russian Sage should be pruned with the following goals in mind: Removing dead twigs, cutting off broken or damaged branches, and encouraging vigorous growth from a healthy foundation of stems that will bloom the next summer.
To prune Russian Sage while it’s dormant, adhere to these steps:
- Trim back all previous growth to healthy buds within 6 to 8 inches of the ground.
- Remove any damaged or broken timber as well as any dead branches.
- Remove any weak branches that won’t be able to sustain robust new ones the next season.
- In order to encourage strong, new shoots to replace the older ones, prune a couple of the oldest stems close to the soil, if possible.
I’ll share a small secret with you now that we are aware of how to prune Russian sage properly. The “Hair Cut method of pruning” is used by the majority of island landscapers because of how forgiving this plant is. Simply grab the twigs in one hand and use the other to cut them all off evenly. Or, if you’d rather, use your hedge trimmers to attack them! Any remaining dead twigs will be rapidly buried by new growth next summer.
How is Russian sage prepared for winter?
Russian sage is a hardy perennial herb that thrives in Northern California’s temperate climate with the right fall maintenance and minimal winter protection. Autumn brings forth the bluish-lavender blooms, which draw butterflies and bees to the yard. The plant’s erect shape and silvery stems, which mature to heights of 3 to 5 feet, provide appeal to the home landscape even in the winter. Although Russian sage does nicely in a flower bed with a variety of flowers, it thrives in areas with dry, poor soil and rock gardens.
Mulch should be uniformly distributed 2 to 3 inches around the Russian sage plants. Mulch aids in retaining soil moisture and ensuring a constant soil temperature. Use an organic mulch, like pine needles or chopped bark.
The winter landscape will be more interesting if you leave spent Russian sage plants alone in the fall. However, excessive trimming encourages new growth, which increases the plant’s susceptibility to winter harm. If you don’t like how the Russian sage is growing unpruned, tidy up the plants with a light pruning, but wait until spring to cut the Russian sage to the ground.
Do you deadhead sage from Russia?
Russian sage grows to a height of three to five feet and a spread of two to three feet. The flowers are carried on tall panicles that have an airy, tactile sensation, and their hue is similar to lavender. Over time, plants develop a woody base that needs to be pruned back in the early spring.
Staking: Despite being a tall plant, Russian sage is not typically staked. It will grow into a sturdy plant that won’t topple over if you place it in a highly sunny location.
Russian sage does need a regular watering regimen during the first year in your garden to create a deep, drought-resistant root structure, despite being exceptionally drought tolerant when mature. When that happens, let it dry out in between waterings. It should not be overwatered in subsequent years and will die in poorly draining soils.
Fertilizing: Although it can benefit from a modest top-dressing of compost in the spring, additional fertilizing is not required.
Russian sage does not require mulching during the growth season, although mulching can be employed in the winter to protect delicate plants. If mulching is necessary for aesthetic reasons, use it sparingly and keep it away from the plant’s crown. If you want to grow plants that can withstand drought, think about using gravel or making a gravel garden.
Trimming and Pruning: Russian sage should be cut back each year in the early spring to a height of about 12 to 15 inches. Deadheading will not influence the time it takes to bloom. It adds visual interest to the winter environment by giving chilly mornings a ghostly, airy aspect.
In harsher northern areas, the plant may totally die back to the ground. In these cases, it may be beneficial to prune the plant back in the fall after the first frost and lightly mulch it with straw or other garden waste.
What’s causing my Russian sage to collapse?
I have two different varieties of three Russian sage plants planted in medium to full light. They range in age from 2 to 4. They will not get upright and will flop along the ground. Years ago, I had a Russian sage who behaved in a similar manner. Why am I misusing this?
Once it has grown to the majority of its regular height in the middle of the season, Russian sage can flop. When there is just partial sun, the plant may “extend a little, looking for the sun.” Such uncontrolled growth can make the stems top-heavy and eventually flop.
When possible, give the plants a full day of sunlight. Typically, 8 hours is ideal. Once they are established, they can withstand droughts as well. They typically prefer to stay a little shorter and more compact and are better able to support themselves erect if kept warmer and dryer.
There are supports that are a ring with a grid inside of it. This grid will be partially obscured by the plants as they expand as they grow through it. Therefore, consider using one of these supports or even a standard peony ring if the plants of Russian sage are still flopping over after you have given them as much sun as you can.