Maintaining your hydrangea can greatly impact its blooms the next year. When given enough time and the right care, hydrangeas are resilient and can recover from virtually anything.
See our comprehensive growth guide for hydrangeas here after reading the fall maintenance advice below!
Because some hydrangea kinds do not like to be clipped in the fall, it is crucial to first identify your variety.
If you have hydrangeas in your garden, you should be aware that there are two different varieties. Both types develop blossom buds, one on new wood and the other on old wood. If a stem has remained on the plant since the previous summer, it is referred to as old wood. Stems that form this season are considered new wood. The majority of hydrangea species that are found in gardens are old wood bloomers, including as Mophead, Big Leaf, Lacecap, and Oakleaf types. Check your variety once more at the neighborhood garden center.
Hydrangeas can grow for many years without being pruned, but it’s time to cut them if they become unkempt, take over a portion of the garden, or stop producing new growth. But when should they be pruned?
After the summer blooms on old wood bloomers or fall blooming hydrangeas, prune them. Old, woody hydrangeas that are pruned in the fall will not bloom the following season.
Hydrangeas that bloom in the summer or those that do so on fresh wood are clipped in the fall, after their flowering season has ended.
Early in the season, hydrangeas are brilliant and colorful, but they are difficult to preserve after being cut. Once they begin to dry on the bush, they are simpler to maintain.
Your plant will have weak, wispy growth near the bottom. Reduce them. They will consume energy that could be used by your plant to produce blossoms.
On your stems, look for any dead stumps. They won’t have sprung any buds or new wood from the original old wood. To totally remove the dead stumps, cut them to the ground at the base. This will give the new growth below a chance to flourish.
To make way for new buds to emerge, old and dead blossoms must be eliminated. To promote flowers for the following summer, remove the flower head immediately above the first few leaves.
Observe the plant’s shape from a distance. The shrub should be pruned into the shape you desire; a spherical is the traditional shape, but you can prune it however you like!
Clean up any leftover debris from the plant’s foundation. Make sure your soil is devoid of all weeds, dead flowers, and leaves.
Feed your blue hydrangeas with Holly-tone to maintain acidic soil and vibrant flowers. Alternatively, choose Flower-tone.
Feed your hydrangeas two to three times each week from spring till fall for the greatest results.
Your hydrangeas will remain healthy and vibrant for many years if you follow these simple instructions.
Do I need to prune my hydrangea in the fall?
Only prune these hydrangeas in the summer after bloom, not in the fall. In August and September, old wood hydrangeas begin to form their bloom buds for the following year. It is advisable to delay pruning your hydrangeas until the following year if you don’t do it right away. If not, there won’t be any blossoms the next spring.
Should hydrangeas be pruned back during the winter?
If and when you prune is the key to happy, healthy hydrangea flowers. Of course, fertilizing and offering the ideal environment have a lot to recommend them. However, if you don’t prune properly, your efforts will be in vain. Deadheading is not the same as trimming. Pruning refers to more drastic cutting to preserve shape or remove dead growth. However, feel free to discard spent blossoms or cut fresh ones to use in arrangements.
Hydrangeas can bloom on either fresh wood or old wood, depending on the species. The wood from which they blossom determines whether and when to prune.
Old wood-blooming hydrangeas do not require pruning and benefit from it. They’ll blossom more abundantly the next season if you leave them alone. But feel free to deadhead or gently thin. Just keep in mind that while new growth may appear, it won’t bloom until the following season. In our region, four different species blossom on aged wood. Additionally, they are not limited to the hues displayed here.
Climb using suckers. On your wall or trellis, resist the desire to remove the dormant growth.
The flower heads are more conical in appearance, and the leaves are large and resemble oak leaves. It’s a pleasant surprise for a hydrangea when its leaves turn reddish-orange in the fall.
They are very comparable to lacecap types, but smaller and with more compact leaves.
Pruning should be done in late winter or early spring on hydrangeas that bloom on new wood. Trim back to two feet to prune to shape. The next season’s blossoms are produced by strong, fresh growth that is encouraged by trimming. In our region, there are two types that bloom on fresh wood. They are also not restricted to the colors displayed.
Oakleaf variants are not included in cone-shaped blooms. Keep the blooms on throughout the winter to provide interest; even dried out, they are quite lovely.
regarded as a wild kind. They often have smaller blooms and leaves than Bigleaf variants and are completely white. They enjoy full sun and can grow very tall.
Knowing whether or when to prune now will help you avoid the disappointment of a hydrangea that doesn’t blossom. Don’t forget that a robust shrub will produce more gorgeous blossoms if it has well-draining soil and good organic fertilizer. Come on in, and we’ll show you where to go to develop your green thumb.
Should I remove the brown blooms on my hydrangea?
Your hydrangea shrubs’ blossoms appear to be withering or turning brown. No need to worry—this is merely a signal that it’s time to deadhead—remove the blossoms from the plant.
Deadheading hydrangeas doesn’t cause any damage to the plants at all. Flowering shrubs stop producing seeds when the spent blooms are removed, and instead focus their efforts on developing their roots and leaves. You will be doing your hydrangeas a favor by deadheading because this strengthens and makes plants healthier.
In the winter, what shouldn’t you cut back on?
The garden becomes desolate as the nights grow longer and the weather turns colder. There is no doubting that your garden will need some assistance as winter approaches.
Even though the majority of plants are dormant, winter is a very busy season in gardens, which non-plant lovers may not be aware of. Winter is the time to tidy up flowerbeds, trim back ornamental grasses and perennials, take care of fruiting bushes, and prune some plants (we have a list right here). While many plants and trees can and should be pruned in the fall or winter, just after the last bloom of the year and before the new season’s development begins, there are some plants that should never be touched.
The following plants should never be pruned in the winter:
Summer flowering shrubs can be pruned at the end of winter or in the early spring, but we’re adding them here because it’s strongly advised against using shears in the middle of the winter. They still have time to set blossoms for the following year if you prune at the end of winter or the beginning of spring. You can also prune back deciduous shrubs that aren’t grown for their flowers at the same time.
Late April, right after they stop blooming, is the optimum time to prune them. Later in the year, pruning may result in the removal of buds.
Jasmine should not be pruned in the winter, as with other plants that bloom in the spring, otherwise you risk not having blossoms.
Spring-blooming bushes should be pruned as soon as the spring blossoms start to fade.
Old wood should never be cut back into because this can damage the plants. Till April, leave the fragile French lavender alone.
You’ll lose the buds that would have blossomed in spring if you harvest lavender too early.
You will eliminate flower buds and reduce the number of spring blooms if you prune them later in the growth season or during the winter.
If you prune a forsythia in the winter, just like other spring-blooming plants, you risk removing flower buds.
If you trim a magnolia in the winter, you risk losing the buds that will eventually blossom into magnificent flowers.
These trees that bloom in the early spring should be left alone throughout the winter, just as spring-flowering shrubs, so that buds can develop and produce blooms in the spring.
After they blossom, prune these trees to preserve your summer fruit crop.
Pruning maples in winter can result in a lot of sap, just like with birches, elms, and other so-called “bleeder” trees. Avoid a potential disaster by waiting until the summer.
Winter cutting of these flowers should be avoided as it could hinder their spring growth.
Winter trimming may lose you your flowers because some rose kinds, such as damasks, climbers, and ancient garden varieties, only bloom once a year. Instead, wait until they have blossomed in the summer before pruning.
Cut back these shrubs in late winter before new growth begins
Shrubs that flower on young wood typically start blooming later than old-growth bloomers, beginning in June and continuing until the first frost, because they need to grow and set buds the same year that they bloom. As long as you avoid trimming when the flower buds are opening, these shrubs are understanding if it is not done at a specific period.
1. Trim the flowers all the way back for larger blooms.
These bushes can be completely removed from the ground in late winter or the beginning of spring. If cut severely like this every year, smooth hydrangeas will produce much larger flowers, but many gardeners prefer smaller blooms on stronger stems.
2. Maintain an old growth foundation to lessen flopping
Especially after watering from above or after a heavy storm, the branches of some hydrangeas frequently topple over from the weight of their blooms. Cutting the stems to a height of 18 to 24 inches will help to reduce this flopping by creating a strong framework for fresh growth.
Janet Carson is the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service’s horticulture specialist.
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How far back can hydrangeas be pruned?
You can prune the first pair of buds on Hydrangea macrophylla, Hydrangea serrata, Hydrangea quercifolia, and Hydrangea aspera in the spring. In essence, you are removing the dried flower heads. By removing one or two of the oldest, largest stems, you can also help the plant become more open and give off a better shape. To promote fresh growth, cut these right back to the ground.
Hydrangea aborescens and Hydrangea paniculata can be clipped back more severely after flowering since flowers appear on fresh growth. These kinds don’t truly require pruning, although you can do it to prevent them from becoming too tall.