French hydrangeas generally develop buds that bloom from flowers that bloomed the previous year. Therefore, the soonest after their primary flowering phase in mid- to late-summer is the best time to prune them. Further pruning may result in fewer flowers the following summer if new buds start to emerge. Air circulation is improved, and the size of the plant is maintained, by mild pruning, which removes up to one-third of the oldest stems from each bush. This is also the time to shape the bush and prune back excessive stems.
What time of year should I trim my hydrangea?
Depending on which group the plant belongs to, the timing and extent of pruning are determined:
Advice on Pruning for Group 1:
- As the days get shorter and the weather gets colder in the late summer and fall, buds for the following year’s blooms start to form.
- Typically, removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches is all that is required to preserve shape, size, and a healthy plant. Otherwise, gentle pruning ought to be practiced.
- In the summer, trimming should begin as soon as flowering ends, but no later than August 1. Pruning should not be done in the fall, winter, or spring because you risk removing fresh buds.
- Tip-pruning the branches in the spring as the leaves begin to appear can promote more numerous, smaller flower heads as opposed to fewer, larger flower heads.
Advice on Pruning for Group 2:
- On the growth of the current year, flower buds form.
- Early in the spring, as the leaves are starting to emerge, prune.
- Just above a node, prune branches back by half to a third.
- After that, prune any fragile or spindly branches.
- Minimal trimming encourages huge, strong bushes with many of tiny flower heads in H. arborescens. Hard pruning between 12 and 18 inches from the ground, or even all the way down, will result in fewer but larger flower heads that may flop if unsupported.
- For H. paniculata, remove the surrounding smaller wood while leaving the larger stems in order to establish a sturdy foundation.
Pruning may be connected to flower head size. Shoots will grow more vigorously and flower heads will be bigger and fewer with more rigorous trimming. Smaller but more numerous flower heads may result from less aggressive or tip pruning.
Consideration of hydrangeas’ mature size is the best piece of advise. Place them in a location where they won’t outgrow and won’t need a lot of pruning to keep them in check. Hydrangeas don’t need to be pruned precisely or often; as long as dead wood is removed, they will remain healthy and continue to develop and bloom.
How is a French hydrangea cared for?
Even though lacecaps are more subdued, they are still beautiful in bloom. They entice bees and butterflies to the garden with their flower heads, which are slightly domed and ringed with delicate fertile florets. Their flowers float above broad, vivid green deciduous leaves like mopheads. Lacecaps are supremely elegant, yet mopheads might be more flamboyant. Showcase these ethereal blooms in sweeping fern and hosta arrangements in heavily shaded wooded areas.
Can the two varieties of flowers be combined in a garden? Absolutely! Plant them in the same manner that Tyler and Byrd Garland did in their garden near Macon, Georgia. Use delicate lacecaps in front, where their beautiful blossoms will be noticed, and magnificent mopheads in the back.
How To Choose The Best Macrophylla Hydrangea More than simply gorgeous blooms should be considered while purchasing French hydrangeas. Pick a mature plant that has balanced branching on all sides. The stems should be covered in plump buds or flower heads that are about to bloom or open in late spring and early summer. Bright green leaves that are not drooping are ideal (an indicator that the plant may not have been watered regularly).
Where To Plant Macrophylla Hydrangea French hydrangeas appreciate morning sun, afternoon shade, and wet, well-drained soil. Water the plants as soon as you get them home, thoroughly moistening the soil. Play around with the positioning prior to planting. The majority of French hydrangeas can be planted 3 to 4 feet apart, but you should check the tag to determine how big your choice will get. Create a hole that is the same depth as the pot and two to three times as wide. Put the plant in the hole’s middle after removing it from its container. With your fingertips, gently release the root-sides. ball’s Half of the original soil and half of the compost should be used to fill the hole. Mulch and water your plant frequently to aid in its establishment. In order to promote new blooms, it’s crucial to constantly water, feed, and remove old blossoms if you purchase a repeat bloomer.
When Should Hydrangea Macrophylla Be Pruned French hydrangeas that only bloom once, like “Nikko Blue,” blossom on growth from the previous year. Just after summer blossoming, prune. French hydrangeas that bloom repeatedly include “Blushing Bride” and “Dooley,” which produce flowers on both old and young growth. These can nearly always be pruned.
What occurs if hydrangeas are not pruned?
If and when you prune is the key to happy, healthy hydrangea flowers. Of course, fertilizing and offering the ideal environment have a lot to recommend them. However, if you don’t prune properly, your efforts will be in vain. Deadheading is not the same as trimming. Pruning refers to more drastic cutting to preserve shape or remove dead growth. However, feel free to discard spent blossoms or cut fresh ones to use in arrangements.
Hydrangeas can bloom on either fresh wood or old wood, depending on the species. The wood from which they blossom determines whether and when to prune.
Old wood-blooming hydrangeas do not require pruning and benefit from it. They’ll blossom more abundantly the next season if you leave them alone. But feel free to deadhead or gently thin. Just keep in mind that while new growth may appear, it won’t bloom until the following season. In our region, four different species blossom on aged wood. Additionally, they are not limited to the hues displayed here.
Climb using suckers. On your wall or trellis, resist the desire to remove the dormant growth.
The flower heads are more conical in appearance, and the leaves are large and resemble oak leaves. It’s a pleasant surprise for a hydrangea when its leaves turn reddish-orange in the fall.
They are very comparable to lacecap types, but smaller and with more compact leaves.
Pruning should be done in late winter or early spring on hydrangeas that bloom on new wood. Trim back to two feet to prune to shape. The next season’s blossoms are produced by strong, fresh growth that is encouraged by trimming. In our region, there are two types that bloom on fresh wood. They are also not restricted to the colors displayed.
Oakleaf variants are not included in cone-shaped blooms. Keep the blooms on throughout the winter to provide interest; even dried out, they are quite lovely.
regarded as a wild kind. They often have smaller blooms and leaves than Bigleaf variants and are completely white. They enjoy full sun and can grow very tall.
Knowing whether or when to prune now will help you avoid the disappointment of a hydrangea that doesn’t blossom. Don’t forget that a robust shrub will produce more gorgeous blossoms if it has well-draining soil and good organic fertilizer. Come on in, and we’ll show you where to go to develop your green thumb.
Do hydrangeas need to be pruned before winter?
It’s not necessarily necessary to severely prune your hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) before putting them to bed for the winter. Depending on the cultivar, hydrangeas can be grown in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, with each variation having different pruning requirements. Before you grab the shears, you must identify the type of hydrangea to know how far back to cut it for the winter.
Tip
Depending on the variety, hydrangeas can bloom on either old or new wood. Old-wood blooming hydrangeas need to be pruned just after the flowers fade in the late summer, whereas new-wood blooming hydrangeas should be pruned in late winter before new growth begins.
Cut back these shrubs in late winter before new growth begins
Shrubs that flower on young wood typically start blooming later than old-growth bloomers, beginning in June and continuing until the first frost, because they need to grow and set buds the same year that they bloom. As long as you avoid trimming when the flower buds are opening, these shrubs are understanding if it is not done at a specific period.
1. Trim the flowers all the way back for larger blooms.
These bushes can be completely removed from the ground in late winter or the beginning of spring. If cut severely like this every year, smooth hydrangeas will produce much larger flowers, but many gardeners prefer smaller blooms on stronger stems.
2. Maintain an old growth foundation to lessen flopping
Especially after watering from above or after a heavy storm, the branches of some hydrangeas frequently topple over from the weight of their blooms. Cutting the stems to a height of 18 to 24 inches will help to reduce this flopping by creating a strong framework for fresh growth.
Janet Carson is the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service’s horticulture specialist.
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Should I remove the brown blooms on my hydrangea?
Your hydrangea shrubs’ blossoms appear to be withering or turning brown. No need to worry—this is merely a signal that it’s time to deadhead—remove the blossoms from the plant.
Deadheading hydrangeas doesn’t cause any damage to the plants at all. Flowering shrubs stop producing seeds when the spent blooms are removed, and instead focus their efforts on developing their roots and leaves. You will be doing your hydrangeas a favor by deadheading because this strengthens and makes plants healthier.
French hydrangeas: Should I deadhead them?
If the bushes aren’t overgrown, deadheading—the removal of old, wasted blooms—improves the French hydrangeas’ beauty while they are in bloom and is frequently the only pruning necessary. Cut off wilting flowers whenever they appear during the flowering period, and after blooming has finished, remove any remaining dead flowers. Trim the flower clusters off in the fall or winter if they start to appear torn if you prefer to let them dry on the bushes for ornamental purposes.
What can I do to get my French hydrangea to bloom?
When you enter a garden and see a hydrangea in bloom, your interest is immediately piqued. The Bigleaf Hydrangea, also known as Hydrangea macrophylla, makes a statement with its large, vibrant blooms that simply cannot be disregarded. The majority of us visualize this hydrangea when the name is mentioned. We’ve all undoubtedly given or received one at some point in our life; it’s a favorite pot plant of florists. However, the French hydrangea really shines in a garden setting.
A mature garden hydrangea is a woody, deciduous shrub that is at least 5 feet tall and roughly that wide. Large, matte-green foliage in colors ranging from medium to dark serve as the backdrop for the two distinct bloom shapes. either 1) hortensia or mophead blossoms, or 2) lacecap blooms. If you will, both bloom forms are the same plant with “different hair color. Many folks who are unfamiliar with lacecap blossoms are perplexed by this area. Yes, they are supposed to look that way, but no, the young, fertile flowers in the middle will never develop into the hortensia or mophead, which is their sibling. Their lacy, more delicate appearance gives the garden a new perspective.
When hydrangeas start to bloom, you can buy them at your local garden center. While it’s a good idea to look around now and decide what you want, planting hydrangeas in the late spring or early summer demands more care on your side. In order to meet the demands of all those large leaves and blossoms, the newly placed plant does not yet have a root system in place. To allow the plant to grow its mature root system throughout the first two growing seasons, you will need to water it frequently during dry spells (this applies to all newly planted plants, not just hydrangeas).
French hydrangeas are frequently mentioned among plants that thrive in shade. Technically, this is incorrect. French hydrangeas require at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight to bloom well. They don’t need afternoon sun in the direct, especially in the South. Increased “transpiration,” or water loss from the leaves, is a result of direct sunlight. Planting hydrangeas in the arduous late-afternoon sun will make them appear wilted and thirsty. As soon as dusk falls, the plant will begin to heal by itself if there is enough water in the soil. Avoid watering a plant that has become wilted by the sun since too much water might cause root rot issues. Hydrangeas require water quickly if they begin to droop in the morning before it becomes too hot.
If your hydrangeas were planted under trees and have yet to blossom, you might wish to “limb up the trees to enable more light to touch the hydrangeas” or, alternatively, move them to a site with more sunlight in the fall, just before the trees begin to shed their leaves.
You must dig a hole at least twice as big as the pot your hydrangea is in before bringing it inside. Before deciding between the 2-gallon plant and the 5-gallon plant, consider this. A smaller plant will likely have less transplant shock and will soon reach the size of a larger plant. Due to the lack of aluminum in the potting soil, practically all hydrangeas in nursery pots will have pink blossoms. Depending on the pH of the soil, once seeds are buried, their color may change; more on this later.
Take the soil out of the hole and combine it in the following ratio with the amendments:
1 part enlarged slate chip product, 1 part finely powdered pine bark chips, 1 part granite sand, or another soil aerator
Editor’s note: According to new information, the planting hole should be thoroughly broken up with native soil rather than being supplemented with additional materials. In theory, plant roots should grow through the modified hole and into the surrounding soil, but in practice, they are often slothful, and the planting hole serves as a containment, creating a scenario known as “pot bound.” It is preferable to add soil amendments to the entire planting area if they are necessary.
Examine the roots of your plant after removing it from the pot. The plant is said to be “potbound” if the roots have developed into a mat or are circling the exterior of the soil. Be brutal in removing these matted roots by cutting them loose. You might find that you significantly reduce the plant’s root ball. Rest assured that the roots will reappear and spread out into the surrounding soil. In my toolbox, I always have a serrated knife or an old tree saw just in case a transplanting situation arises.
Place the plant in the hole that has been made. If you overdug, you might have to pull out the plant and replace the hole with adjusted soil until the plant’s crown is at or just above the surrounding soil level (remember that adding water will compact the soil below the plantyou may want to plant slightly high to compensate for this). Sprinkle a little amount (about 1/2 cup) of a good balanced, timed-release fertilizer that feeds the roots for three to four months before replacing the plant in the hole.
After you’ve placed your plant, start filling the hole with the adjusted dirt. As you fill the hole completely, gently firm the earth as you go. Finish the planting process by giving the soil a good soaking, or until no more air bubbles are visible on the surface. This guarantees that the soil and the roots are in direct contact and prevents the drying out of valuable roots. To help with moisture retention, add a two-inch layer of excellent mulch on top of the soil around the plant.
Watch your plant grow while relaxing. Be patient with little (1 gallon) plants’ first two years of blooming. In their first two seasons, smaller plants often devote all of their energy to growing. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizers as well, as they will just promote quick green growth and no bloom. High phosphorus fertilizers, commonly known as bloom boosters (a greater second number), are also ineffective for promoting hydrangea bloom development.
Even seasoned gardeners sometimes get confused about when and if to prune French hydrangeas. French hydrangeas are often compared to an azaleaprune after flowering in the South. Typically, this refers to July—certainly before August 1st. Removing up to a third of the growth won’t harm the plant. The bloom buds for the upcoming season are already present in the new growth that will emerge following pruning.
Take no fall trimming.
You are merely taking out your blossoms. The hydrangea’s leafless branches may not be the most beautiful feature of a winter garden, but if they have been planted properly and have a decent evergreen background, they are not nearly as distracting.
An older plant may require a good “renewal pruning” if it has been allowed to overrun its area or has grown lanky and barren on the bottom. Renewal pruning is the term for severely cutting the plant back (down to 18 or lower) either in the early spring or right after bloom. The result will be a “stump” with few, if any, leaves, but the plant will swiftly regenerate thanks to its vast, established root system. For that growing season, you will give up flower, but you will acquire a plant with improved proportions. Simply avoid trying this in the fall since you risk killing your plant.
As the hydrangea buds start to appear, one more pruning task is finished as part of spring housekeeping.
Find any older or dead branches on each plant, then cut them off as far back as the ground (you may need a pair of loppers for this). Regular cane removal promotes new growth. By softly scratching a branch with a pocketknife or fingernail, you can determine whether it has living tissue. It is a living branch if there is a green layer immediately below the surface. Additionally, now is an excellent time to remove any lingering dead flowers.
An established hydrangea just need the spring maintenance listed below:
As a topdressing, spread a 1 1/2 to 2 inch layer of compost or composted cow dung over the fertilizer.
Frost-damaged leaves should be plucked or chopped off; healthy leaves will quickly replace them, improving the appearance of your plants.
Consider these other hydrangeas for your garden:
The newest popular shrub in the nursery industry is the hydrangea. Although the recently released “Endless Summer macrophylla has sold incredibly well, there are many additional hydrangea kinds that are well worth planting. In actuality, amassing hydrangeas may be very rewarding. Consider including these varieties of hydrangeas in your landscape in addition to French hydrangeas:
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, sometimes known as PeeGee hydrangeas, and other paniculata variants
More details about hydrangeas:
You might want to buy a reference book as your interest in hydrangeas grows. In 2004, two new products that can be highly useful were introduced to the market:
By Michael A. Dirr, 2004’s Hydrangeas for American Gardens was published by Timber Press. The renowned University of Georgia horticultural Michael Dirr is the writer of numerous books that are highly regarded, including Manual of Woody Landscape Plants. His hydrangea book is filled with lovely color plates and is well-researched and educational.
C.J. Van Gelderen and D. M. Van Gelderen’s Encyclopedia of Hydrangeas was published by Timber Press in 2004. Another outstanding resource with color illustrations and explanations of hydrangeas from around the globe. Comparing facts with that in Dirr’s book is intriguing.
One final online resource for hydrangea knowledge
hydrangea society of America (founded 10 years ago in Atlanta, Georgia)