Like everyone else, gardeners are susceptible to the moment’s allure since we are drawn to what is now in bloom. The plants you see around you are frequently on sale right then because nurseries react properly. We’re a hasty and forgetful species that wants what it wants when it sees it, not months later, despite the fact that plants prefer to be planted and established well before or after they flower.
The relative scarcity of bulbs in Santa Fe gardens may be partially explained by this tendency. They are not for sale in the spring when they appear as if by magic amidst the decay of the previous year’s growth. By October, when you can finally acquire them, the majority of them have long since disappeared from the environment. While doing so, we are enjoying the asters and chamisa while planning to start the first fire of the season. Winter seems like a long way off. There is no real spring.
But those of us who were able to plant a few handfuls of bulbs in the ground in October will be appreciative come February or March. Nothing is more energizing than noticing their green tips piercing the winter’s browns and grays. And when they begin to bloom, it is a pure joy. They may be the only option for bees that emerge from hibernation on mild days in the late winter and early spring, despite the fact that they are not native.
The ease with which bulbs can be grown here is one of their best qualities. Knowing this startled me. I had assumed that you needed some form of specialized knowledge or that the harsh weather in Santa Fe would be too much for them. In fact, a large portion of them originate in steppe regions that are similar to our own, including Turkey, the western Himalayas, Iran, and the Balkans. They have evolved to blossom earlier, with lower temperatures and more abundant moisture. Before turning dormant in the summer’s heat and dryness, they quickly refill themselves through their foliage, storing the nutrients they need for the coming year. Many blossoms demand chilly winters.
However, “simple” does not equate to “certain.” While some bulbs thrive in drier, sunnier areas like rock gardens and would rot with too much summer water, others are better suited to forests and will wither in scorching, parched conditions. Any bulb’s species types and dwarf variants are typically stronger and better suited to challenging growth environments than the taller, fancier hybrids.
Scott Canning, the head horticulturist at the Santa Fe Botanical Garden, spoke with me about some of his suggestions for our area. The small Narcissus “Topolino” is an exception, even though daffodils tend to be a little thirstier than the drought-tolerant bulbs. At the garden, it and Ipheion uniflorum (the star flower) have established themselves in a spot without further irrigation.
Canning also advises species tulips, such as Tulipa greigii, Tulipa turkestanica, Tulipa batalinii, Tulipa clusiana, and Tulipa dasystemon, for dry, sunny areas of the garden. These need adequate drainage more than most bulbs do and will rot if left damp during the summer. Canning recommends Single Early tulips if you enjoy traditional hybrid tulips; “Apricot Delight” is a particularly good and well-liked kind. For Santa Fe, the Darwin and Triumph classes are also generally dependable.
Canning loves the deliriously beautiful eremurus species of bulbs (foxtail lilies). He claims that with a little extra water, they would thrive here just as they do at the Denver Botanical Gardens. They must be planted carefully because of their fragile, octopus-like root system.
Predators including gophers, squirrels, deer, and rabbits may present the most problem for Santa Fe bulb producers. Daffodils, alliums, and fritillarias are a few pest-resistant bulbs that are worthwhile to try in landscapes with these pests present. For almost 50 years, Bob Pennington of Agua Fria Nursery has been cultivating bulbs in Santa Fe. For safety, he suggests putting daffodils in the vicinity of fruit plants and roses. Most daffodils thrive in the more humid circumstances that these plants and bushes prefer.
Conversely, crocuses and tulips are treats for animals. Different species may be less vulnerable than those that have been heavily cultivated. Despite a few gopher invasions, I’ve had Tulipa clusiana (lipstick tulips) and Tulipa bakeri (Lilac Wonder) thriving for a number of years with no issues. Additionally, Pennington suggests Tulipa tarda.
Plant a wide range of varieties for a lengthy season of bulbous pleasure. For the earliest blossoms, Pennington suggests eranthis (winter aconite), crocuses, snowdrops, and Iris reticulata. A very early flower that prefers cooler, moister conditions, chionodoxa (glory-of-the-snow), has been productive for at least one other Master Gardener. Tulips and daffodils have a variety of bloom periods, and they can be planted such that from early to late spring, one species or another is in bloom. Deep blue grape hyacinths (muscari) contrast beautifully with the whites, yellows, pinks, and reds of other mid-spring bulbs and thrive here, multiplying wildly given half a chance (they do need a moderate amount of water once their grass-like foliage reappears in late summer).
Alliums are prized for blossoming later than most bulbs, in addition to their beautiful look and pest-repelling abilities. Favorite allium christophii (star of Persia) is frequently cited. Allium schubertii, Allium sphaerocephalon (drumstick allium), “Purple Sensation,” and “Millenium” are other varieties that thrive in this region. Alliums frequently reproduce profusely through seed, which some gardeners find advantageous, but if you’re a tidy freak they might not be for you.
Pennington and other seasoned bulb growers frequently bemoan the beginner’s propensity to just plant one or two bulbs, which inevitably leads to unsatisfactory results. Bulb planting should be done in clumps or broad sweeps for best results. They are striking in groups, but when arranged in a straight, thin line or as a single example, they might appear somewhat pitiful. Pay attention to the bulb’s size as well; the smaller the bulb, the closer it must be to borders and walkways to be appreciated. Don’t remove the foliage until it is fully dead since bulbs need it to recharge. If the sight of wilting foliage bothers you, plant wisely so that groundcovers, perennials, and grasses that grow later will cover it up.
Trying to determine the correct timing of bulb planting based on expert advice, which frequently varies and can be very accurate, can be overwhelming. From what little I’ve seen, it’s not that difficult. Wait until the nights are regularly cool, in the mid- to low-fifties. As long as they are planted before December, they should be alright. Ideally, you should give the bulbs about six weeks to root out before the ground freezes. However, climate change has extended that duration in Santa Fe.
The bulbs should be inserted pointy side up into holes that are dug about three times as deep as they are tall. The backfill soil just has to be slightly amended with Yum Yum fertilizer, but if you’re planting larger daffodils and tulips or woodland-type bulbs, you might also want to add some compost. If there isn’t much rain, water them in thoroughly and then just periodically until spring. Water once every week when the leaves emerges. Several years into their productive lives, certain bulbs may begin to lose efficiency or swell up. To revitalize them, they can be separated and dug up.
The addition of bulbs to any garden is simple and appealing. So order some catalogs or visit your neighborhood nursery to begin planting.
What month should tulips be planted?
- Use chicken wire to cover planting holes, a fence, repellant spray, or container gardening to keep animals away.
Is there anything happier than a large tulip field blooming in the spring? The profusion of vibrant blossoms is a sight for sore eyes after a protracted winter of cold and snow. You may build and enjoy a robust tulip show in your own yard with these tactics and pointers.
How to Choose Tulips
Hybrid tulips make up the majority of the tulips you see in landscape plantings, as well as those offered for sale at garden centers and home improvement shops. For the greatest impact, hybrid tulips normally need to be replaced every year. (We’ll cover how to persuade them to return below.) When given the proper growing circumstances, species tulips will return year after year in zones 4 to 7. These have smaller flowers and pointier petals than hybrid tulips, and they are shorter.
Individual tulips don’t flower for very long, especially the hybrids. However, there are types that bloom in the early, mid, and late seasons at various periods. When buying, choose a couple cultivars from each bloom time category for a long-lasting display.
Where to Plant Tulips
For the best show, tulips need full sun, which entails at least six hours every day of bright, direct sunlight. They are also great additions to rock gardens since they favor quick-draining soil.
When to Plant Tulips
Fall is the best time to plant tulip bulbs. Prior to planting, the soil must have cooled from the summer growing season, which could occur in September in cold regions (zones 3 to 5), October in transitional temperatures (zones 6 to 7), and November or December in warm areas (zones 8 to 9). Use a soil thermometer to measure the soil’s temperature, and plant when it reaches 60 degrees F at a depth of 6 inches.
For tulips to bloom, they need to be chilled. Buy pre-cooled bulbs and plant them in December if you intend to grow tulips where the soil temperature won’t fall below 60 degrees for at least 12 weeks.
How to Prepare the Soil for Planting Tulips
Use Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers to prepare the planting space for tulips by incorporating 3 inches of garden soil into the top 6 to 8 inches of native soil. Tulips will develop a strong root system in the fall thanks to the nutrients provided by the soil, which is necessary for a significant spring bloom. However, to get the best results from your tulips, you must combine the strength of excellent soil with just the appropriate plant food. For details on what and when to feed tulips, see “How to Feed Tulips” below.
How to Plant Tulips
Tulips should be planted in bunches of 10 or more for the best display. The pointed end should be facing up as you plant each bulb 8 inches deep (measure from the bottom of the bulb and add the depth of any mulch on top of the soil in your measurement). It is possible to place bulbs close to one another. Thoroughly water.
How to Grow Tulips in a Pot
In pots, tulips are simple to grow. The bulbs should be buried at least 8 inches deep, much like with in-ground plantings, so measure from the top of the container to a depth of about 9 inches, then fill the pot up to that point with Miracle-Gro Potting Mix. Put the pointy end of the bulbs in the pot (you can pack them tightly together). After thoroughly watering, cover with the potting mix. Move the container to a cool, dry spot that stays at or below 40 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter before the first frost in your area. Bring the container outside to a sunny area when you notice tulips budding. Water the soil there. Once you notice green growth, start watering often.
How to Water Tulips
When you plant tulips, make sure to thoroughly water each planting space. After planting, give the plants one watering each week for the first month. Then, leave them alone until spring. When the leaves come out in the spring, start watering once more.
How to Feed Tulips
Apply Miracle-Gro Shake ‘n Feed Rose & Bloom Plant Food in accordance with the instructions on the package once the flowers have faded. In order for the bulb to conserve nutrients for the following growing season, this will aid in promoting leaf growth. Every year in the late fall, feed for the final time (around the same time as you would plant new bulbs).
How to Cut Tulips to Enjoy Indoors
When the buds are still tightly closed, cut tulips. You should be able to identify the hue of the blooms despite the petals’ possible greenish tint. Put inside a spotless vase with room temperature water. Once cut and brought indoors, tulips will continue to “grow” (the stems extend). Simply trim a few inches from the bottom of the stems every few days if they start to get unruly. If you mix Miracle-Gro for Fresh Cut Flowers into the water and replace the water every few days, cut tulips will stay longer (compared to water only).
What to Do After Tulips Bloom
The best tulip flower display will typically occur in gardens in the spring that immediately follows the fall when the bulbs are planted. Once the petals have faded, trim the flower stalk back to the plant’s base to encourage species tulips to return year after year. After the bulbs have gone dormant, cease feeding them as previously mentioned, stop watering them, and trim back the foliage once it has completely turned brown. Simply pluck up the bulbs from hybrid varieties (which are not perennial) and compost them.
How to Protect Tulips from Deer and Other Pests
Preventing deer from eating tulip blooms is the biggest obstacle in tulip gardening, closely followed by preventing chipmunks and squirrels from digging up the bulbs. Planting holes or trenches should have chicken wire surrounding them on all sides to prevent bulbs from being dug up. (If you’re planting large sweeps of bulbs, which is how to get the best show from tulips, this is most useful.)
Deer are another matter. Installing a long (8 feet or more) fence is the greatest approach to keep deer out of the garden, but most people cannot afford to do this. Daffodil and Crown Imperial bulbs are not consumed by deer, so interplanting tulips with these varieties may help deter them. Alternatively, you may try misting a deer repellent on bulb foliage. In light of this, it is preferable to grow tulips in pots on a screened-in porch if deer are a significant issue where you live. This way, the deer can’t access to the flowers.
Ready to start tulip gardening? To learn more about a product, to buy it online, or to locate a retailer near you, click on any of the product links above.
Can tulips be grown in New Mexico?
Can you tell me what annual and perennial flowers might thrive in Cloudcroft, New Mexico’s subpar soil? The soil pH is unknown to me, despite the height being 8,500 feet.
Answer:
Numerous plants can flourish and grow in your area. Bulb plants like tulips, daffodils, crocus, grape hyacinths, and many other spring flowering bulbs are a good place to start. In your location, it’s a little late to plant them. If you already have them, it is preferable to plant them rather than save them. To plant them, you will need to locate a location where the ground is not yet frozen. You might decide to plant these in the upcoming fall. These plants are perennials, so they will continue to bloom for several years.
Pansies can be planted as the winter ends. Once summertime hits, many annuals may perish or at the very least stop blooming, but in the chilly springtime, they will flower beautifully for you. Some of the smaller types, like the classic Johnny-jump-ups (little, self-seeding relatives of the pansy), might also be wise selections. As the temperature warms up in the spring, calendula plants with their vibrant daisy-like blossoms can be planted. They can withstand a little mild cold, just like the pansies.
You can plant marigolds, zinnias, cosmos, scarlet runner beans, and many more summer flowering annuals after the danger of frost has passed. The majority can be planted directly from seeds, but you can also start them earlier indoors and transplant them, or you can get transplants from a nursery. You’ll see more flowers much more quickly thanks to the transplants. All summer long, these plants ought to keep you in bloom.
Consider lilacs, peonies, crabapple trees, golden currants, and other perennials that thrive in chilly climates (these have beautiful, fragrant early spring blossoms and edible fruit). Tiger lilies and possibly other varieties of lilies with summer blooms will thrive in your climate. Daylilies and iris will undoubtedly bloom and enliven your landscape. Dwarf plumbago, vinca major (periwinkle vine), and various varieties of sedum are additional excellent groundcover and flowering plant options.
Only a small selection of the numerous plants you can grow is provided here. Your garden has numerous chances because to the higher humidity and colder summers at your high altitude, but as you might have anticipated, you won’t be able to grow everything your friends at lower altitudes can. Try these and every year add a few new ones to your garden to create a variety of vibrant blooms that you enjoy and invite your neighbors to join you in enjoying.
As an aside, you should gather a soil sample and send it to a soil testing facility after the soil heats up in the spring. You can get guidance from your neighborhood NMSU County Cooperative Extension Service office on how to take a soil sample and how to interpret the results after your soil has been examined. You can garden more successfully if you know the characteristics of your soil. Then, if necessary, you can adjust your soil and choose plants that are best suited to your soil’s characteristics. The majority of the plants indicated above will benefit from the addition of well-decomposed compost to your soil in the interim.
Links:
When you submit your inquiry, remember to include a copy for your county’s extension agent and to mention your home county!