Because of its unfettered garden beauty, aylilies (Hemerocallis) have been dubbed America’s favorite perennial. Unfortunately, many people associate daylilies with the orange or the little yellow “Stella de Oro” flowers “common ditch lily found in the north. Few people are familiar with the modern daylily’s wide variety of sizes, forms, colors, and striking patterns.
There are more than 55,000 recognized daylily cultivars, with diameters ranging from a 50 cent piece to a dinner plate, however 4 to 5 inches is the average size. With an average height of between 24 and 28 inches, some cultivars bloom only a foot off the ground, while others tower over you. A typical daylily has a six-petal structure with a round open face. However, there are also odd forms that twist and turn, double forms that resemble pom-poms, and long, narrow spider forms. But it’s the color combinations that might almost make you become addicted to your obsession with daylilies. Soft pastel colors like cream, peach, pink, and lavender are at one end of the spectrum. Dark purples and reds that are nearly black are on the other end. Vibrant shades of purple, red, yellow, orange, and hot pink are also present in between. Every hue but genuine blue and uniform green is readily available. Imagine these hues combined with striking midribs, veins, throats, eyes, and ruffled edges, and you can begin to understand the daylily’s breathtaking beauty. One of the most recent developments in daylily breeding is metallic gold edges that, unlike any other flower I’ve seen, literally sparkle in the sunlight. A reasonable analogy, in my opinion, would be the varied beauty of orchids, but with easy-to-grow garden plants that don’t require winter protection.
Where did all these various shapes and hues originate? Daylilies are indigenous to eastern Asia, where they were utilized as food, medicine, and decorative plants in gardens. Daylilies are mentioned for the first time in writing in manuscripts from 2700 B.C. They were first introduced to Europe in the 1500s, then later, in the 1800s, to America. The New York Botanical Garden’s director, Arlow Burdette Stout, started breeding the local daylilies here in the United States in the 1920s to produce contemporary hybrids. Currently, hundreds of individual hybridizers, mostly in the United States, are producing novel cultivars. Some hybridizers work on a large scale with acres of daylilies, like Jack Carpenter in Center, Texas. However, many are produced in the backyards of amateur hybridizers. The end result is a genus that is growing each year in stunning new directions.
Daylilies have fleshy roots that extend below the surface and above-ground leaf fans that converge at the plant’s top. In May and June, flower stalks (scapes) that normally have 10 to 20 flower buds will protrude from the crown. Although each flower only blooms for one day (thus the name), the buds open one at a time, creating weeks of color in the garden. Moreover, several cultivars continue to produce scapes through June, July, and August.
Daylily fans will eventually grow in clusters as they protrude from the crown over time. These groups can be split up and relocated to different areas of your yard, or they can be shared and exchanged with friends. Early spring and again in the fall are ideal times to divide and replant daylilies in Texas. Place them where it is mainly sunlight. A little bit of shade is good, but heavy shade will prevent plants from growing and blooming. Use a soil composition that holds moisture while allowing drainage. For daylilies, nearly any decent garden soil will do. But I’ve been using a soil blend of 4 parts ground pine bark, 2 parts peat moss, and 1 part sand for the past few years, and I’ve had great success with my garden. They should be spaced 16 to 20 inches apart, with the crown planted just slightly above the ground.
Use a high nitrogen fertilizer, such as 15-5-5, to fertilize in the early spring and once more around 6 weeks later. A natural fertilizer with a corresponding ratio can be used by organic growers. While phosphorus and potassium prefer to bond to the soil particles and stay available to your plants for a longer period of time, nitrogen tends to drain from the soil with watering and rain and needs to be replaced. Add some granular sulfur to the soil in Texas regions with alkaline soil and water to help maintain soil pH around neutral. Add some alfalfa pellets to the soil to give your daylilies a little treat. Tricontinol, a growth hormone found in alfalfa, gives your plants an added boost. Water the fans a few times a week, preferably in the early morning or late at night to avoid stagnant water building up during the day, which can lead to decay. For weed prevention and moisture retention, mulching in between plants is an excellent idea, but keep the mulch a few inches away from the roots of the plants.
Daylilies may be your favorite flower, but deer prefer them even more—to eat, that is. Therefore, put them in an area where deer can’t access them, like as inside a high fence. Any garden plant may have problems with aphids and thrips. When daylilies hibernate at the base of the leaves in the winter, they appear to be at their worst. Use an insecticide or natural spray early in the growing season, and the rest of the year should be fine. Spider mites harm daylilies and nearly every other plant in your garden during warm weather. Effective miticides cost a lot of money and are not really necessary. Spider mites can be controlled by giving the underside of the foliage a heavy spray of water twice each week. Be on the alert for little orange dots on the leaves that indicate the fungus illness rust during extended high humidity conditions. Although it can be unattractive, rust won’t harm the plant. Use a fungicide to treat rust or remove the problematic foliage.
When buying daylilies, there are a few things to know. First, your source should mention that daylilies can be classified as evergreen, semi-evergreen, or dormant. Daylilies that are evergreen or semi-evergreen will thrive all over Texas. However, dormant cultivars do better in colder environments. Avoid the dormant daylilies if you garden in Central, South, or Coastal Texas. Unfortunately, neighborhood nurseries occasionally sell dormant types in locations where they are inappropriate. So be sure to research what you’re purchasing. A nearby daylily club is one reliable source for daylilies. Another option is to place a special order with a daylily nursery. Plants will be sent to you bare root. They may endure this for up to two weeks if kept dry and cool thanks to their thick roots. I recommend ordering from a southern nursery, and there are three good ones in Texas (see “Sources) (see “Sources).
The American Hemerocallis Society (AHS) Popularity Poll is a nice place to start if you want recommendations for specific cultivars. About 600 of AHS’s 10,000 members are located in the Texas/New Mexico region. Members get to choose their top ten daylilies every year. The top five daylilies in Texas and New Mexico for 2008 are:
The “Red Volunteer” a 30-inch scape with a 7-inch clear red bloom with a gold throat. In 1984, Tennessee’s William Oakes created a hybrid.
In “Orange Velvet,” a 30-inch scape bearing a 6-and-a-half-inch light orange bloom with a green throat. Enman Joiner of Georgia created a hybrid in 1988.
Jonathan Salter On an 18-inch scape, a light yellow flower measuring 2.3/4 inches in diameter with a washed lavender/purple eyezone and a green throat. Florida’s Elizabeth Salter created a hybrid in 1987.
The “Wind Frills” A 34-inch scape supporting a 7-inch soft pink open form bloom with a noticeable yellow/green throat. Inez Tarrant of Texas created a hybrid in 1978.
Named “Elizabeth Salter” a 22-inch scape supporting a 5-1/2-inch salmon pink bloom with a green throat. Florida’s Jeff Salter created a hybrid in 1990.
Texas daylily producers will showcase their gardens to the globe this year. The AHS National Convention will be held in many clubs in Houston. May 14–17 will see a gathering of over 600 daylily enthusiasts for two days of bus tours, as well as clinics, seminars, and dinners.
Which month should daylilies be planted?
There aren’t many perennial plants that are simpler to grow than daylilies. Due of its low maintenance requirements and extensive color options, it is a favorite of both novice and seasoned gardeners. Similar to a broad-leaved ornamental grass, daylily leaves give texture to the garden when they are not in bloom.
How to Choose Daylilies
From the thousands of little yellow plants you find in office parks to the tall orange trees “Ditch lilies come in a variety of sizes and hues and are commonly found blooming beside rural roadsides. While some have distinctive colors, some kinds have ruffled petals (including purple). For season-long flowers, plant a blend of early-, mid-, and late-season kinds “Reblooming cultivars will maximize the floral power in your garden.
Where to Plant Daylilies
Daylilies are planted in large numbers along the sides of interstates for a reason—they are hardy plants! Plant daylilies in locations with six or more hours of direct sunlight each day and in soil that isn’t often wet for the best results. When planted in large groups, daylilies put on a spectacular display. They are perfect for providing color around home foundations in front of shrub plantings or to complete a perennial garden.
When to Plant Daylilies
For optimal results, plant daylilies in late spring or early fall. But if you come across a plant during a summer sale that you simply must have, bring it home right now and plant it. Simply watch it carefully and water it frequently throughout the first two weeks.
How to Prepare the Soil for Planting Daylilies
Daylilies can grow in a range of soil types, but they will grow best in slightly damp, well-drained soil that is high in organic matter. Utilize Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers to prepare fresh planting sites. The top 6 to 8 inches of native soil should be mixed with 3 inches of garden soil. Additionally, you can enhance the soil in each planting hole by mixing 50:50 Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers with the current soil. Be sure to read the section below on “How to Feed Daylilies” if you want to know how to combine the power of outstanding soil with the proper plant food for beautiful results.
How to Plant Daylilies
There are two ways to buy and sell daylilies. They occasionally arrive as bare-root plants, often known as “fans,” which are clumps of roots, leaves, and a developing stem. But the majority of daylilies are cultivated in containers. Prepare a hole that is twice as large and precisely as deep as the plant’s root system before planting either variety. If using a plant from a container, place it in the hole and then fill up the area around the roots. Make a mound in the planting hole with part of the removed soil mixture if you are planting a bare-root daylily. Place roots on top of the mound and surround them with vegetation. Make sure the plant’s crown, which is where the roots and stems meet the leaves, is just above the soil line when it is planted and not buried. Plants should be well-watered before mulch is applied to keep the soil evenly moist.
How to Water Daylilies
For the first few weeks following planting, you’ll need to water the plants every other day or so. For the remainder of the initial growth season, water once or twice per week (depending on whether or not it has rained). If your region is not experiencing drought, you shouldn’t need to water daylilies during the second growing season and beyond (4 or more weeks without measurable rainfall). Daylilies can withstand drought once they are established.
How to Feed Daylilies
Use Miracle-Gro to start feeding daylilies a month after planting. Thanks in part to natural ingredients that help nourish plants above and below the soil, Shake ‘n Feed Rose & Bloom Plant Food will help them continue to grow big and strong. Shake the food onto the ground evenly. To begin the feeding, work the fertilizer into the top 1 to 3 inches of the soil. Make sure to heed the label’s instructions regarding how much and how frequently to apply.
How to Prevent Pest Problems with Daylilies
Although daylilies often don’t cause too many issues, deer do enjoy nibbling on the blooms. Spray plants with Tomcat Deer Repellent on a regular basis (as directed on the label) if deer are a concern. They dislike the taste and smell produced by the formula made with essential oils.
How to Deadhead Daylilies
Daylily blooms do indeed only bloom for one day. The following morning, remove any dead blooms from plants to keep them clean. Cut a bloom stalk down to the ground once all of its blossoms have opened. Shear back foliage if it starts to look ragged in the middle of the summer.
How to Divide Daylilies
Plants that create clumps include daylilies. As the plants get older, clumps may get congested and produce fewer blooms. Digging up the entire plant, after flowering in the early fall, is how you divide plants. You can either use a pointed spade to cut the plant into pieces or shake the soil off and gently pry apart the roots. (The first method gives you more divisions, but the second method is quicker.) Replant immediately.
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Are daylilies successful in Texas?
Daylilies bloom frequently and in a variety of hues. Almost no pests are interested in them. They will flourish anywhere in Texas, producing lovely flowers whether it is in the sun or the shade, dry or wet soil, or both. There are small flowers, big flowers, tall plants, and compact plants. Even making your own variations is doable with relative ease. It is understandable why daylilies are recommended for the home landscaping by every gardening professional. Even though daylilies can withstand poor soil, you should take the effort to prepare the soil if you want them to bloom nicely. Daylilies need good drainage; if they are planted in an area where their feet are frequently moist, they will rot. Plant only up to the base of the crown, the part of the plant that is white above the roots and gradually turns green.