The drought-tolerant Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) has lovely silvery-gray foliage. Russian sage blooms along its long stalks in late summer, creating billowing clouds of small lavender flowers. Although Russian sage prefers warm sunlight, it may also survive in regions with extremely chilly winters. Russian sage can be challenging to divide and prefers to be left alone, but successful division is frequently feasible. Russian sage can take a while to establish itself, so be patient. However, Russian sage is a hardy plant that will endure in your yard for many years once it is established.
When the plants are young in the spring, divide Russian sage. To prevent the roots from drying out too quickly and to give the newly divided plant time to settle in its new place, pick a chilly morning on a cloudy day.
- The drought-tolerant Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) has lovely silvery-gray foliage.
- Although Russian sage prefers warm sunlight, it may also survive in regions with extremely chilly winters.
With pruners or kitchen shears, remove only approximately 3 to 4 inches of the Russian sage cluster. With a shovel, dig the Russian sage cluster. If the Russian sage clump is big, cut off a smaller portion of it with the edge of your shovel and leave the rest of the plant in the ground.
Shake the Russian sage plant carefully to shake off extra soil as you lift the cluster from the ground. As you divide the clump into smaller pieces, carefully pry the roots away with your fingertips. The size of each division should allow for four or five shoots, with multiple strong roots on each shoot.
With a shovel or trowel, dig a hole for each division, then plant the freshly divided Russian sage in a bright area of your yard. Each plant should be spaced at least 18 inches apart.
- With pruners or kitchen shears, remove only approximately 3 to 4 inches of the Russian sage cluster.
- If the Russian sage clump is big, cut off a smaller portion of it with the edge of your shovel and leave the rest of the plant in the ground.
For the first growing season, water the Russian sage right away and keep the soil evenly moist. After the first growing season, Russian sage can withstand dryness and only sometimes has to be watered in hot, dry weather. Avoid overwatering the Russian sage since too much moisture can make it decay.
You can also plant divisions of Russian sage in patio pots. Select a container with a hole at the bottom, and then fill it with potting soil from a store. At the same soil depth as when it was first planted, place the Russian sage in the container. For the first growth season, keep the soil moist but avoid overwatering.
When can Russian sage be divided and transplanted?
The faded flowers will still provide interest and color to the winter landscape if you choose not to trim the bushes back.
It might be challenging to transplant established Russian sage. With as much soil and the plant’s root system as you can, dig a wide circle around the plant. After transplanting, the plant will probably experience shock, from which it may take several months to recover. Early spring is the ideal time to move Russian sage. In the coldest areas, wait until the earth is warm. Before transferring the plant, trim the stems back by two-thirds. Until you notice new growth, keep the transplant well-watered; after that, gradually reduce water.
Should Russian sage be divided?
Russian sage plants require very little watering maintenance. In actuality, once established, Russian sage does well in dry soil and requires little water.
Every other year in the late fall, scatter a spoonful of all-purpose fertilizer or a shovelful of compost around each plant.
Provide a 2-inch (5-cm) coating of pine needles over the winter in areas north of USDA Zone 6 and remove them in the spring when new growth appears.
While leaving the stems and seed pods in the garden until spring adds winter interest, you can trim the stems back to a foot (.5 m) above the ground for a neater appearance.
Pruning is the main part of Russian sage care in the spring and summer. Cut the old stems back to just above the lowest tier of leaves when the new spring growth appears. Shear off the top one-third of the stems if the plant starts to sprawl or spread open in late spring or summer to promote upright growth. If the plant stops blooming in the summer, cut off the top half of the stems. This promotes new growth and a fresh blooming cycle.
By splitting the clumps or taking cuttings in the spring, you can propagate Russian sage plants. Every four to six years, divide the clumps to revitalize the plants and limit their expansion.
How well does Russian sage transplant?
Russian sage can be transplanted at any point during the growth season. It thrives in full sun and well-draining soil that is either slightly dry or moderately damp. Pruning in the spring can help minimize flopping, which is a problem when Russian sage is grown in areas with less than eight hours of direct sunlight per day.
Can Russian sage be divided in the fall?
It blooms from mid-summer through the fall and has fragrant leaves. It is a nice plant to utilize for dried or cut flowers, for the garden’s fall beauty, and to draw butterflies. Every three years, in the spring or the fall, Russian sage can be multiplied by division.
In the fall, should I trim back my Russian sage?
The growth from the previous year might continue throughout the spring in regions with moderate winters. In colder regions, chilling weather kills back the top growth. Cut the stems down to 12 inches above the ground in the early spring when the buds on the stems are starting to swell in order to promote new growth from the ground level for the upcoming season.
According to Arbor Valley Nursery, pruning plants in the fall could promote early growth that is vulnerable to frost damage. Rejuvenate plants as they get older over a few years by cutting some of the older stems to the ground. Consider lifting and dividing a plant in the early spring and replanting the divisions if it grows congested over time. For terminal branching and increased bloom production, Russian sage can also benefit from mild pruning in the early summer.
Must Russian Sage be Reduced?
For us on Nantucket, Russian sage is an excellent plant because it possesses all the characteristics we value in a superb perennial:
- It is resilient and requires little particular care from the gardener to overwinter.
- Most of us on the island have a lean, sandy soil, which is where it operates best.
- Its fragrant, gray-green leaves has just the right amount of fuzz to be particularly deer resistant.
- It has a lengthy interest season, looking fantastic from June through October.
- When seasonal people are present on the island in the middle to late summer, it blooms for a very long time.
- It is extremely adaptable in the environment thanks to its lacy leaves, blue flowers, and open habit. It works well with decorative grasses, can be added to perennial gardens, and creates a striking mass planting.
I’ve also had great success pruning Russian sage in the fall when I take down my spent perennials, even though many of us have been trained to leave it standing and prune it in the spring. Wait until it is dormant, preferably after a frost, but be sure to do so.
Russian Sage should be pruned with the following goals in mind: Removing dead twigs, cutting off broken or damaged branches, and encouraging vigorous growth from a healthy foundation of stems that will bloom the next summer.
To prune Russian Sage while it’s dormant, adhere to these steps:
- Trim back all previous growth to healthy buds within 6 to 8 inches of the ground.
- Remove any damaged or broken timber as well as any dead branches.
- Remove any weak branches that won’t be able to sustain robust new ones the next season.
- In order to encourage strong, new shoots to replace the older ones, prune a couple of the oldest stems close to the soil, if possible.
I’ll share a small secret with you now that we are aware of how to prune Russian sage properly. The “Hair Cut method of pruning” is used by the majority of island landscapers because of how forgiving this plant is. Simply grab the twigs in one hand and use the other to cut them all off evenly. Or, if you’d rather, use your hedge trimmers to attack them! Any remaining dead twigs will be rapidly buried by new growth next summer.
Russian sage is pruned throughout the winter.
Russian sage is a fuss-free perennial that adds color all season long and is drought resistant. With a modest 28- to 32-inch height, “Denim ‘n Lace” manages the towering and floppy growth of classic Russian sage. Plants that are fully colored resemble lavender. In Zones 4–9, hardy. Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Denim ‘n Lace’ is its botanical name.
Pruning Russian sage requires courage. Russian sage pruning can be intimidating at first, but once you get the hang of it, your plants will become stronger and fuller and put up a more attractive flower display. Although taking tip cuttings may qualify as a pruning action by genuine botanists, pruning is not a part of the propagation of Russian sage.
Russian sage is normally pruned by the regular gardener at the beginning and end of the growth season. With its purple flower spires, Russian sage creates a purple haze in gardens starting in mid- to late summer. The silver-gray stems are encircled by whorls of the fuzzy blossoms, creating an intriguing sight. Plantings are given a great dramatic flair by foot-long flower heads. Pruning Russian sage in the spring properly paves the way for a stunning flower display.
Russian sage’s stems change from being green, soft, and succulent to having a woody component as it ages throughout the growing season. This kind of perennial flower is referred to by gardeners as a semi-woody perennial or shrubby perennial. Russian sage stems should be cut back to 18 inches at the end of the flowering season in cold climates, when the blooms have faded and a deadly frost has occurred. For a more interesting winter garden view, skip the pruning and leave the stems alone. In the coldest regions where Russian sage is hardy, it is good to leave stems in place. zone 4 and zone 5.
Stems freeze as winter approaches and subfreezing temperatures take hold. Depending on how cold it gets and how long it lasts, stems may or may not freeze to the point of death. Russian sage has two sites where new growth appears in the spring: the stems and the plant’s crown, which is where the stem tissue and roots converge. Typically, the crown is hardly visible above ground.
On Russian sage, a harsh winter may kill all of the aboveground stems, and only the crown produces new growth. Stems may only partially die back during milder winters. In this situation, the Russian sage would produce new growth from both the stems and the crown.
Snip stems back to 12 to 18 inches as springtime approaches. Leave 18 inches in place if you’re cleaning up your garden well before the last average frost date. Cut stems down to 12 inches or less if there is no longer any risk of frost.
Zones 4 to 9 are hardy for Russian sage. It might not die back significantly, if at all, throughout the winter in warmer areas. After the blossoms have faded and when winter has arrived, Russian sage should be pruned in regions with mild winters. If you don’t want to see stems throughout the winter, you can give them a severe pruning now, trimming them to a height of 6 to 12 inches. Otherwise, wait until very early spring or late winter to perform a rigorous pruning.
Pruning Russian sage right after after flowering in regions with lengthy growing seasons might encourage a second flush of bloom. Reduce plant growth by 50% to promote reblooming.
How is a sage plant split?
With a sharp knife and a garden fork or shovel, you can easily divide perennial herbs. Just remove the root ball from the dirt by digging around the plant’s base. With the sharp knife, split the cluster after grabbing it. You could split the original plant in half if the root ball is large, creating two plants, or you could make several plants. Make sure there are roots and shoots in every split area.
When dividing herbs like chives and lemongrass, pull them apart gently. Dig up new plants and move them if the herb is one that produces runners, such as catnip and mint.
If at all feasible, immediately replant the split areas. If not, until you can plant them, keep the roots of the fresh transplants moist and out of the sun. After planting, be sure to water in the newly transplanted divided herbs.